CosBeauty Magazine #95
CosBeauty is the #BeautyAddict's guide to lifestyle, health and beauty. In this issue: - 2022 Trend Forecast - The skin & hair revival guide - The New Stone Age: Why crystal healing is having a moment - A fascinating history of anti-wrinkle injections - 24 local brands keeping Australia beautiful
CosBeauty is the #BeautyAddict's guide to lifestyle, health and beauty.
In this issue:
- 2022 Trend Forecast
- The skin & hair revival guide
- The New Stone Age: Why crystal healing is having a moment
- A fascinating history of anti-wrinkle injections
- 24 local brands keeping Australia beautiful
You also want an ePaper? Increase the reach of your titles
YUMPU automatically turns print PDFs into web optimized ePapers that Google loves.
COSBEAUTY
ISSUE 95 FEB-APRIL 2022
2022
trend
forecast
The new
stone age
WHY CRYSTAL
HEALING IS
HAVING A
MOMENT
A fascinating
history of
anti-wrinkle
injections
24
LOCAL
BRANDS
KEEPING
AUSTRALIA
BEAUTIFUL
9 771833 383011
ISSN 1834-383X
02
The skin
& hair
revival
guide
.com.au
moisturising
in all forms
A range formulated with highly efficient
active ingredients that provide all skin types
with an optimal level of hydration.
Hyaluronic acid is a key ingredient within
the range, to help prevent dehydration at all
levels. This is combined with antioxidant and
anti-pollution active ingredients to provide
an additional protective action.
the element for skincare experts
mesoestetic.com.au | 1800 242 011
CLEAR + BRILLIANT
now
available
with
nicole
As we age, the amount of maintenance required to keep a youthful look will increase,
but getting started early is a huge advantage. Filling the gap between over-the-counter
treatments and more aggressive laser offerings, Clear + Brilliant creates and defi nes an
entirely new category of laser aesthetic treatments for clients moving along the skincare
continuum. Clear + Brilliant helps prevent and address early signs of ageing, resulting in a
brighter, more even skin tone. Treatments are comfortable, fast, effective and suitable for
all skin types. The results are both immediate and progressive, depending on the age and
condition of the skin. It is also great for those who are looking for short downtime and a quick
skin ‘pick-me-up’. Call Nicole now to take advantage of an opening offer.
02 9327 7728
mobile 0410 627 767
mobile 0410 627 767
Shop 8, 401 - 407 New South Head Rd,
Shop 8, 401 - 407 New South Head Rd,
Double Bay NSW 2028
Double Bay NSW 2028
www.nicolesbeautysalon.com.au
www.nicolesbeautysalon.com.au
Improves
post-procedure
recovery with
immediate
impact
Visibly
regenerates
and restores skin
The World’s Only Skincare
Powered by Ethically Derived Red Deer
Umbilical Cord Lining Stem Cells
Day 4 post procedure:
Decreased swelling on LHS
using CALECIM
Day 4 post procedure:
Decreased redness on LHS
using CALECIM
Post 2 weeks using
CALECIM
IT’S NO MIRACLE. IT’S SCIENCE ®
calecimprofessional.com.au | 1800 242 011
Dr Lisa is a female Specialist
Plastic and Cosmetic Surgeon
based in Sydney, Australia.
She has worked in France,
Germany and the USA.
Breast augmentation
Breast lift
Breast reduction
Abdominoplasty
Mummy makeover
Liposuction
Lip lift
Non-surgical facial
enhancement including
wrinkle injections
and fillers
1300 DR LISA I SUITE 8, LEVEL 6, 75 CROWN ST WOOLLOOMOOLOO, Sydney
SkinMTX
®
Clinically Researched Formulation
Elevate
Your Skincare
with Award-Winning SkinMTX ®
SkinMTX ® offers a complete range of dermatological-grade
formulations that push the boundaries of efficacy.
With active ingredients that offer unrivalled potency, SkinMTX ®
products are specially designed and formulated to penetrate
optimally into skin to achieve visible, proven results.
CLICK HERE &
RECEIVE
15% DISCOUNT +
2 FREE SAMPLES
USE CODE COSBTY15
VALID UNTIL 16/04/2022
skinmtx.com.au | 1800 242 011
46 The new stone age
Crystal healing, long the domain
of new-age pseudoscience,
is having a moment – and the
beauty industry wants in.
66 Post-summer hair revival
Tresses in distress? Prepare to
repair with these hydrating
hair heroes.
72 The Aussie brands keeping
Australia beautiful
Some of our favourite local
products to give you that
undeniable Aussie glow.
82 Cool, calm and collected
Is your skin sending out an SOS?
We have the products to help you
shield and repair your skin from
the sins of summer.
REGULARS
10 Editor’s Letter
12 Beauty Insider
110 Ed’s Faves
FEATURES
54 Skincare myths busted
Could the active ingredients in
your skincare product be doing
more damage than good to
your skin?
90 Beauty & beyond
Meet the lady bosses behind
two Australian success stories.
98 Under the knife: Is the Australian
cosmetic surgery industry
getting a facelift?
We report on the current
‘cosmetic surgeon’ crisis in
Australia and proposed changes
to the industry.
102 The most popular anti-ageing
treatmentof all time
As Botox Cosmetic celebrates
its 20th birthday this year,
we take a trip down memory
lane with the founders of this
revolutionary treatment.
BEAUTY
30 2022 beauty trend forecast
The future looks bright – with
a focus on sustainability,
diversity, accessibility and
personalisation.
WELLNESS
106 Everything you knew about
metabolism may be wrong
Recent research has shaken
widely held weight loss theories
to the core.
www.cosbeauty.com.au 9
From the
EDITOR
It’s hard to believe we’re already in February 2022! This year has already started
with its fair share of ups and downs – the down being we’re still in the midst
of a pandemic, and the up being there is light at the end of the tunnel. In the
beauty world, the future certainly looks bright. For the first time, we are seeing a
shift in power, with consumers setting the trends and evolving beauty standards that put
inclusion, accessibility, diversity and sustainability at the fore. You can read more about
2022’s forecast on page 30.
Shopping local is more important than ever in our collective quest for sustainable
beauty. A brand’s footprint matters and as consumers we’re increasingly making our
purchasing decisions based on a brand’s environmental impact just as much as we are on
the product’s efficacy. On page 72 we showcase some of the Aussie brands leading the
way with sustainable, eco-friendly, high-performing beauty products.
The Aussie summer is slowly drawing to a close. If, like me, you’ve enjoyed a bit too
much fun in the sun and saltwater, now’s the time to repair your skin and hair from the
sins of summer. Check out our tried and tested favourite skincare products on page 82,
and our hair repair heroes on page 66.
We had so much fun this issue taking a trip down memory lane with the founders of
Botox Cosmetic. From page 102 you can learn about the birth of anti-wrinkle injections,
past, present and possible uses, and how it’s become the most popular anti-ageing
treatment of all time.
For more inspirational stories, we’re also proud to profile two Aussie success stories
in the local beauty industry on page 90. Plus, as always, we share the latest products and
treatments from both here and abroad.
Happy reading, and here’s to a positive and empowering year ahead!
Issue 95
Feb – April 2022
Editor-in-Chief
Michelle Kearney
Art Director
Debbie Pilarinos
Writers
David Hickie,
Aimeé Rodrigues
Photographers
Debbie Pilarinos, ShutterStock
Distribution &
Subscription Enquiries
Bill Dunk
Phone 02 8095 6265 Mob 0410 528 582
Email [email protected]
Advertising Enquiries
Michelle Kearney
Phone 02 8095 6265 Mob 0419 624 246
Email [email protected]
Editorial Enquiries
Michelle Kearney
Phone 02 8095 6265 Mob 0419 624 246
Email [email protected]
Produced & Published by Bella Media
ABN 86 082 157 695
Managing Director
Michelle Kearney
Chief Operating Officer
Bill Dunk
Public Relations, Marketing
& Event Organisation
Phone 02 8095 6265
OFFICE ADDRESS
Suite 2201, Level 22 Westfield Tower 2
101 Grafton St,
Bondi Junction NSW, 2022
Phone +61 2 8095 6265
www.bellamedia.com.au
Michelle Kearney
Editor-in-Chief
FIND US ON FACEBOOK
cosbeauty AND aestheticadvisor
FOLLOW US ON INSTAGRAM
cosbeauty AND aestheticadvisor_au
Visit our new website, www.aestheticadvisor.com.au, the trusted online resource
to: research procedures; find a skilled practitioner; read real reviews; and have
questions answered. You will be able to find out everything you want to know
about different aesthetic treatments, products and news. Leave a review of any
product or treatment you’ve tried or practitioner you’ve visited.
READ THE ONLINE EDITION PLUS MORE GREAT ARTICLES @
www.cosbeauty.com.au
Reproduction in whole or in part is not permitted without the
written authorisation of the publisher. All reasonable efforts have
been made to trace copyright holders. All manuscripts and articles
submitted for publication remain the property of The Bella Media
Group. This magazine contains general information only and does
not purport to be a substitute for medical advice. All readers
are advised to seek medical advice from a doctor if considering
cosmetic surgery. The publisher and the authors do not accept
any liability whatsoever in respect of an action taken by readers in
reliance on the recommendations set out in this magazine. Except
where specified in captions, photographs depict models who have
not necessarily received treatments described in this magazine.
Any ‘before and after’ photographs in CosBeauty Magazine
articles are of genuine patients. It is important to understand
that they represent one person’s experience and there is
no guarantee that any other patient will experience similar results.
@cosbeauty
Beauty insider
THE WHO’S WHO AND WHAT’S NEW IN BEAUTY.
RIHANNA’S NEW LUXURY
FRAGRANCE DROPS
Defying categorisation, Fenty Eau
de Parfum is spicy and sweet all at
once and is designed to be worn
by all people, for all occasions.
Inspired by some of Rihanna’s most
distinct memories and places from
throughout her life – Bridgetown,
Barbados; Grasse, France; New
York, New York; Paris, France;
Los Angeles, California – Rihanna
created Fenty Eau de Parfum as a
scent personal both to herself and
to others. It evokes the memories,
connections and experiences
unique to each person through the
power of scent.
‘I wanted a rich colour that
really represented all genders
from across all walks of life,’ says
Rihanna. ‘Brown is my favourite
colour. Brown is who I am. Brown
is what I come from. If I’m going to
make a fragrance that represents
me, even the body language of
the bottle needs to marry that. So,
I wanted something brown, but
also transparent – so you could see
the liquid and the fragrance you’re
about to experience.’
This is confidence in a bottle.
Where to buy: Fenty Eau de
Parfum ($225 AUD) is available
exclusively at FentyBeauty.com
in limited quantities and for
international shipping.
12
@cosbeauty
CELEBRATING THE YEAR
OF THE TIGER
February 1 marks the Lunar New
Year and the beginning of the Year
of the Tiger! To celebrate, some of
our favourite brands are offering
special edition sets and products.
SkinCeuticals’ Lunar New Year
set takes the guesswork out of a
luxurious and efficacious skincare
routine with a kit designed to
soothe, calm and clarify the
complexion.
This limited-edition skincare
bundle is the perfect foray into
the world of SkinCeuticals, with
products combined to provide
advanced environmental protection
and soothe visible redness.
The skincare kit contains: Phyto
Corrective Essence Hydrating Mist
10ml, 3x Phloretin CF Vitamin C
Serum 4ml, Phyto Corrective Gel
Calming Serum 30ml, and 2x Phyto
Corrective Hydrating Masque 4ml.
SkinCeuticals Lunar New Year
Bundle is available for purchase
for $180 RRP on the SkinCeuticals
website and other stockists.
Clinique is celebrating the Lunar
New Year with four of its bright
stars refashioned in limited-edition
Year of the Tiger packaging:
Jumbo Dramatically Different
Moisturising Lotion+ 200ml $70,
Jumbo Dramatically Different Oil-
Control Gel 200ml $70, Jumbo Even
Better Clinical Radical Dark Spot
Corrector + Interruptor 100ml $195,
and Cheek Pop Highlighter in Gold
Celebration Pop $42.
Sisley Paris is also celebrating
the occasion with the release of a
limited-edition gift box including
five iconic luxury travel size Sisley
essentials with any $300+ Sisley
purchase at David Jones. The gift
set includes Lyslait 30ml, Floral
Toner 30ml, Black Rose Cream
Mask 10ml, All Day All
Year 10ml and Sisleÿa
L’Intégral Anti-Âge
Firming Serum 5ml.
www.cosbeauty.com.au 13
@cosbeauty
FUSSPOT COLLAGEN TEA’S NEW
SLEEP RANGE
Yes, you really can have it all!
Fusspot’s Sleep Tea range – Cloud
Nine and Chai So High – helps you
to drift off to slumberland while
waking up with glowing skin.
Hydrolysed collagen peptides
are at the core of this Australianowned
consumable beauty product.
With premium quality collagen
peptides that help enhance inner
wellbeing, your complexion enjoys
the ingredients it needs to become
more luminous.
Cloud Nine tea is packed with
antioxidants to promote beauty
from within while helping you wind
down with a good night’s sleep that
leaves you refreshed and glowing.
Ingredients: Chamomile flowers,
lemon balm leaf, passionflower,
lavender flowers, scullcap leaf with
hydrolysed collagen.
Chai So High is a tasty mix of
herbs and spices, whirled together
with hydrolysed collagen to give
your skin and body a boost.
Ingredients: Hydrolysed collagen,
spices including ground cinnamon,
ground ginger, ground cardamon,
turmeric powder, and ground cloves.
Where to buy: Head to
https://fusspottea.com/
SKIN FRUIT – SKINCARE
DESIGNED TO RESET YOUR SKIN
New on our radar is Skin Fruit, an
Australian-owned and operated
high-performance skincare range
designed for sensitive skin. The
cleanser and moisturiser feature
botanicals that work to help reset
and get your skin glowing, so you
can wake up feeling confident with
clearer skin.
Skin Fruit was founded in 2019
by pharmacist Amanda Dang who,
after years of trying out countless
products to help alleviate her own
skin sensitivity issues, became
hugely frustrated with the quantity of
products in the marketplace which
were ineffective, confusing and
weakened her skin barrier.
Amanda finally narrowed down
a few key ingredients which were
highly beneficial in restoring her
own skin. From this, she worked
together with a cosmetic chemist to
formulate a skincare range that was
intentionally minimal, purposeful,
and contained effective daily skin
botanical ingredients that were
soothing and rejuvenating to help
keep skin happy and clear from
breakouts, redness and itchiness.
The hero products include
the Non-Stripping Cleanser and
Protective Moisturizer, helping
to improve dryness, dehydration,
redness, and sensitivity.
Where to buy: Head to
https://skinfruit.com.au
14
@cosbeauty
IS CLINICAL ACTIVE PEEL
SYSTEM LAUNCHES
Internationally loved serious skincare brand
iS CLINICAL is launching a powerful yet
gentle, fast-acting 2-step at-home treatment
designed to polish and resurface skin
while providing hydration and antioxidant
protection. Set to become another one of
the brand’s cult performers, the simple yet
ingenious system improves skin tone, texture
and smoothness and helps to reduce the
look of fine lines and wrinkles and pore size.
Read our full report on page 42.
Where to buy: For a list of stockists and
clinics, check out www.isclinical.com.au
NEW NATURAL HAIRCARE RANGE
YOUR HAIR WILL THANK YOU FOR
What if we paid as much attention to
the ingredients in our haircare as we did
our skincare? Well, 2022 is the year to
up your haircare game and shop cleaner
and greener. And weDo/ Professional is
making it a cinch.
Recently launched by the Wella
Company, weDo/ Professional is a range
of recyclable vegan hair products for
hair (and skin!), certified by the Vegan
Society and Cruelty Free International.
From sulphate-free shampoo and
plastic-free shampoo bars to siliconefree
hair oils and masks, create your
perfect hair care routine knowing this
eco-ethical brand follows a minimalist
formula design that ensures high
performance and peace of mind.
www.cosbeauty.com.au 15
Nothing is worth
more than laughter.
It is strength to
laugh and to abandon
oneself, to be light.
Frida
Kahlo
16
www.cosbeauty.com.au 17
A smile is a
curve that
sets everything
straight.
Phyllis Diller
www.cosbeauty.com.au 19
Those who do
not know how to
weep with their
whole heart don’t
know how to
laugh either.
Golda Meir
www.cosbeauty.com.au 21
22
Credit: Featureflash Photo Agency / Shutterstock.com
Wit is the key, I
think, to anybody’s
heart, because
who doesn’t like
to laugh?
Julia
Roberts
www.cosbeauty.com.au 23
Laugh, my friend,
for laughter ignites
a fire within the pit
of your belly and
awakens your being.
STELLA
MCCARTNEY
Credit: lev radin / Shutterstock.com
www.cosbeauty.com.au 25
26
Credit: Sherlock_wijaya / Shutterstock.com
If you can make
a woman laugh,
you can make
her do anything.
Marilyn
Monroe
www.cosbeauty.com.au 27
I love people who
make me laugh.
I honestly think
it’s the thing I like
most, to laugh. It
cures a multitude
of ills. It’s probably
the most important
thing in a person.
Audrey
28
Hepburnw www.cosbeauty.com.au ww.cosbeauty.com.au 29
BEAUTY
30 www.cosbeauty.com.au
BEAUTY
TREND
FORECAST
THE FUTURE LOOKS BRIGHT
– WITH EMERGING BEAUTY
STANDARDS THAT PUT DIVERSITY AND
SUSTAINABILITY AT THE FORE.
www.cosbeauty.com.au 31
BEAUTY
Authenticity
1.
If anything good came out of 2020/21, it’s the new and improved beauty
standards we’re finally beginning to see. Brands are championing
diversity, inclusion and accessibility by expanding and adapting their
product offerings, helping us stay true to our authentic selves and
embracing what makes each of us special.
‘The industry is progressive. When we talk about inclusion and
diversity, the industry has focused longer on trying to serve [customer]
needs, from an assortment standpoint, [compared to] other industries,’
Monica Arnaudo, Chief Merchandising Officer at Ulta Beauty, told
Glossy.co. ‘What is happening [trend-wise] does have a larger impact
on the beauty landscape… The insights we’ve garnered and the trends
for the last couple of years have shaped the beauty landscape and will
continue to shape it. [Trend adoptions] are going to be even faster than
we’ve seen in the past.’
Rohan Widdison, founder and CEO of cosmetic formulator New
Laboratories, says one of the main trends we’re expecting to see in
2022 is a shift in power from the beauty industry to the consumer.
‘Instead of the beauty industry setting the trends which consumers
follow, 2022 will see more brands being consciously driven by social
awareness and led by consumers, instead of the traditional supplier
trend-setting approach which has been the way of the past,’ he says.
3.
Sustainability
A brand’s footprint is going to matter even more in 2022.
Sustainability is now an industry standard, and consumers are
making their purchasing decisions just as much on a brand’s
environmental impact as they are on the product’s efficacy. We want
to know exactly what goes into a product, how an ingredient is
sourced and harvested, how the product is made and manufactured
and how it can be recycled, refilled and reused.
‘Consumers are becoming increasingly sustainably conscious and
are expecting their brands to do the same,’ says Widdison. ‘Whilst
nearly all companies have sustainable practices in place, consumers
are expecting more from their brands in this space, including more
plastic-free products, refillable packaging, fair and ethical sourcing
and a proactive approach to reducing overconsumption.’
In a recent Instagram survey of 1,200 weekly social media users
between 13- and 24-years old, one-third said they are interested
in learning more about clean makeup and skincare in 2022, buying
vegan makeup and plant-based skincare, and using fewer products.
32 www.cosbeauty.com.au
Credit: Charlie Edward / Shutterstock.com
2.
Digitalisation
With artificial intelligence (AI), 3D printing,
augmented reality and DNA analysis, the beauty
industry is becoming increasingly technologydriven
in delivering personalisation in ways that
the traditional cosmetic counter cannot,’ says
Widdison. ‘With consumers’ needs changing and
demanding more custom and specific results,
such as exact skincare matches and personalised
formulas, digitalisation of the beauty industry will
continue to increase in 2022,’ he shares.
4.
The curly
hair
revolution
‘2022 is the year for curly hair to thrive! It’s been a
long time coming – throughout the world, 65% of
our population are living with wavy, curly or Afro
(aka coily) hair,’ says Rumbie Mutsiwa, founder of
RUMBIE & CO, Australia’s leading curl specialist
salon. She says to look out for ‘wash & go’
au naturel styles, curly bangs, the middle part,
the retro shag and braids.
High-puff hairstyles are also huge. According
to Pinterest’s 2022 beauty trend roundup,
embracing the natural hair movement is driving
the popularity of high-puff hairstyles, the simple
and chic curly-girl updo.
‘High puff hairstyle’ searches grew 165% in the
period between October 2019 and September
2021, while ‘natural hair bun styles’ searches
increased 160%.
www.cosbeauty.com.au 33
Makeup
Report:
Natural Beauty
5.
BEAUTY
If more was less in 2021, this year we’ll be seeing even
more pared-back looks. Think natural skin shining
through rather than your typical ‘Instagram makeup’
look. Not matte, not extremely dewy, but something
silky in the middle.
1.
2.
3.
1. Sisley Phyto-Blanc Le Cushion (on counter 13 March 2022),
$170, 2. Arbonne Sheer Glow Highlight Stick, $69, 3. Trinny
London BFF Rebalance, $75, 4. Fenty Beauty Liquid Killawatt
Fluid Freestyle Highlighter in Hu$tla Baby, $39, 5. Charlotte
Tilbury Beautiful Skin Foundation in Warm, $65, 6. IT Cosmetics
Your Skin But Better CC+ Cream SPF50, $63, 7. Sisley Phyto-Teint
Nude, $120, 8. L’Oréal Paris True Match Nude Plumping Tinted
Serum, $39.95, 9. Youngblood Mineral Cosmetics Hydra-Glow
Treatment Balm, $79.95, 10. Ella Baché Superfluid Great SPF50+
Skin Tint, $56, 11. Lycogel Breathable Camouflage, $108, 12.
IT Cosmetics Confidence In A Cream 60ml, $75
4.
5.
7.
6.
34 www.cosbeauty.com.au
8.
9.
11.
12.
10.
www.cosbeauty.com.au 35
BEAUTY
6.
Makeup Report:
Bold & Creative
While a bit counterintuitive with the concurrent minimalist
skin look, pops of colour are also reemerging. Unleash your
creativity with graphic liners in red and sapphire, crystal eye
makeup (yes, using sticker face gems) and throwback glossy
lips in bright pinks and reds.
2.
1. L’Oreal Paris Paris Le Liner Signature Gold Velvet,
$18.33, 2. Rimmel London Exaggerate Waterproof
Eye Definer in Aqua Sparkle, $12.95, 3. Stila After
Hours Eye Shadow Palette $114.25, 4. Arbonne It’s
All In The Eyes Eye Shadow Palette - Volume 2, $86,
5. Trinny London Eye2Eye Eyetallics in Persephone,
$34, 6. Trinny London Lip Luxe in Pookie, $40, 7.
Stila Glitter and Glow Liquid Eye Shadow in Kitten
Karma, $34, 8. Fenty Beauty Gloss Bomb Heat
Lip Luminizer + Plumper, $35, 9. NYX Professional
Makeup Glitter Primer $12.95, 10. Arbonne Glossed
Over Lip Gloss in Primrose, $40
4.
5.
3.
1.
7.
8.
6.
9.
10.
36 www.cosbeauty.com.au
Pantone Veri Peri
Colour of the Year
1.
2022’s colour of the year is ‘Very Peri’, a periwinkle blue hue
with violet-red undertones that symbolises transition, new
possibilities and the global zeitgeist of the moment.
‘The Pantone Colour of the Year reflects what is taking place
in our global culture, expressing what people are looking
for that colour can hope to answer,’ says Laurie Pressman,
Vice President of the Pantone Colour Institute. ‘Creating a
new colour for the first time in the history of our Pantone
Colour of the Year educational colour program reflects
the global innovation and transformation taking place. As
society continues to recognise colour as a critical form of
communication, and a way to express and affect ideas and
emotions and engage and connect, the complexity of this
new red violet-infused blue hue highlights the expansive
possibilities that lay before us.’
TikTok-ers are au fait with the colour purple. The platform’s
purple blush trend has risen to makeup stardom – since the
trend began in October 2021, the hashtag #purpleblush has
garnered well over 16 million views on TikTok.
2.
3.
1. Sisley Phyto-Blush Twist Berry, $85, 2. Sisley Phyto-
Lip Twist Soft Berry, $60, 3. Anastasia Beverly Hills
Norvina Pro Pigment Eyeshadow Palette Vol 5, $110
4. OPI Infinite Shine Hollywood Collection Nail Polish
in Oh You Sing, Dance, Act and Produce, $22.95
4.
www.cosbeauty.com.au 37
SKIN
the
SKINCARE
SOLUTION
every skin
needs
WE’RE CALLING IT. MESOESTETIC’S
MOISTURISING SOLUTIONS MAY BE THE MOST
EXCEPTIONAL SKINCARE LINE WE’VE TRIED.
2022 is already looking better than
its predecessor, with mesoestetic
just dropping their new-look
moisturising solutions range. This is
moisturising at all levels for all skin
types, complete with antioxidant and
anti-pollution active ingredients for a
one-stop solution to your post-summer
skin hydration woes.
The moisturising solutions range
is formulated with highly effective
active ingredients that provide the
skin with an optimal level of hydration
to help maintain it in an optimal
aesthetic condition. It also offers
solutions tailored to the unique needs
of each skin type.
The mechanisms that regulate skin
hydration levels can become altered
by various factors (age, stress, hormonal
changes, environmental factors
and so on), which can cause a dull
complexion, rough and uneven skin
texture, deeper wrinkles, irritation,
etc. In order to help prevent
dehydration and maintain the skin
in its best condition, mesoestetic’s
moisturising solutions feature a series
of products with highly effective active
ingredients.
The new-release hydra-vital light is
breaking skincare ground, helping to
prevent dehydration at all levels in the
skin and providing additional protective
action through antioxidant and antipollution
active ingredients.
www.cosbeauty.com.au 39
ha densimatrix, $159
SKIN
Intensive moisturising concentrate
with hyaluronic acid, suitable for
all skin types
ha densimatrix combines hyaluronic
acid in multiple molecular forms
for penetration at different levels. It
also includes the anti-hyaluronidase
complex, to protect HA from
degradation and help prevent
visible oxidation caused by external
aggressions, and the antiaging pro
complex, to help promote visible
firmness and elasticity, minimising
the appearance of wrinkles.
It has an anti-ageing, plumping
and protective action, and provides a
deeply intense and fresh hydration.
hydra-vital factor k, $149
Moisturising and nourishing cream
for normal and dry skin
hydra-vital factor k is a rich moisturising
cream with a protective action and an
exclusive formulation which provides
a very similar role to the natural
moisturising factor (containing amino
acids, urea, allantoin and lactic acid). In
addition, the key ingredient Vitamin E,
provides an antioxidant effect that helps
protect the skin against free radicals,
which are responsible for accelerating
visible skin ageing. Provides deep
hydration all day long.
hydravital mask, $118
Moisturising mask for dry and
dehydrated skin
hydravital mask is an intensive
moisturising mask that combines
hyaluronic acid and viola tricolor
extract in its formulation to
provide immediate, efficient and
homogeneous hydration. Thanks
to key ingredients argan oil and
panthenol, the skin recovers the lipids
essential for comfort and balance,
helping promote a restorative,
soothing and anti-redness action.
In addition, the formula’s postbiotic
active ingredient (Lactobacillus
Ferment) enhances the balance of the
microbiota to help strengthen and
preserve the appearance of the skin
barrier, while active ingredient Urban
D-Tox helps protect the skin against
the visible effects of pollution.
It is perfect for applying after sun
exposure and can be stored in the
refrigerator to achieve a fresh cool
feeling in the hot months.
INTRODUCING
hydra-vital light
$118
Refreshing moisturising gel-cream for normal,
combination and oily skin
hydra-vital light, as the name suggests, has a
light and non-oily texture allowing for rapid
absorption. It provides an immediate feeling of
freshness, softness and comfort while helping
protect skin against the visible effects of
pollution. It is also perfect for summer skin that
can’t tolerate heavy textures due to the heat.
hydra-vital light contains hyaluronic acid
in different molecular weights and forms,
providing optimal and lasting hydration; Urban
D-tox, an antioxidant and anti-pollution active
ingredient; and a plant-based polysaccharide
that helps aid in the repair of the skin barrier
function, therefore helping to prevent
transepidermal water loss.
Refreshing and with long-lasting hydration,
hydra-vital light is non-comedogenic and has
been dermatologically tested.
WHERE TO GET IT
The moisturising solutions range is available at mesoestetic clinics.
For more information, visit mesoestetic.com.au or call 1800 242 011
www.cosbeauty.com.au 41
SKIN
How to age-proof
your skin in
steps
POLISH AND PERFECT YOUR SKIN
WITH IS CLINICAL’S NEW CLINICALLY
ADVANCED AND BOTANICALLY
2BASED ACTIVE PEEL SYSTEM.
Vetted by dermatologists, backed
by hard science and praised
by many Hollywood A-listers,
it’s hardly surprising iS CLINICAL
has reached cult status. The brand has
taken the skincare world by storm, due
to its effective, proven ingredients in
optimal concentrations that deliver
real, visible results.
And now iS CLINICAL has
launched its much-anticipated Active
Peel System, a gentle resurfacing
treatment that is revolutionising the
at-home skin treatment market.
iS Clinical Active Peel System is
an advanced two-step exfoliating
treatment based on botanical
ingredients that resurfaces and
rejuvenates the skin. This wellbalanced
system also moisturises and
brightens the skin while providing
the skin with antioxidant protection.
Designed to use every other day, the
result is smoother skin texture, more
even tone and a more youthful-looking
complexion. It’s super easy to use, too;
the peel pads quickly and effectively
exfoliate and renew the skin without
the need for water or a removal
process.
UNIQUE 2-STEP
PROCESS
Cosmeceutical products for home use
have exponentially grown in popularity
since COVID-19 began. Although
several brands of home peel pads
are available, the Active Peel System
consists of a unique two-step process.
Step 1 is designed to provide
controlled exfoliation and assist with
the removal of devitalised skin. It
features a proprietary combination
of powerful yet gentle botanical acids
combined with soothing, nurturing
botanical extracts.
Step 2 is the neutraliser for Step
1 and also provides hydration and
rejuvenation. It features the
brand’s proprietary botanical
extremozyme technology and Copper
Tripeptide-1 combined with soothing
active botanicals.
The Active Peel system may be used
as a stand-alone home facial treatment
system or to prep and support the skin
for more focused or aggressive in-office
treatments.
www.cosbeauty.com.au 43
SKIN
CLINICAL STUDY
RESULTS
A clinical study supported by iS Clinical
evaluated the benefits of the Active Peel
Improvements Improvements in fine lines and fine wrinkles, lines and texture, wrinkles, smoothness, texture, smoothness, luminosity, luminosit
radiance, brightness, radiance, brightness, and periorbital and periorbital wrinkles. wrinkles.
ACTIVE ACTIVE PEEL PEEL SYSTEM PEEL SYSTEM
59 Year Old 59 | Year Caucasian Old | Caucasian | Female | Female
System in improving dermal thickness/ Improvements Improvements in sagging, 19% fine sagging, lines 19% increase and fine wrinkles, increase lines and in expression wrinkles, lines, expression
density and visual appearance of the skin,
luminosity,
including fine lines and wrinkles, laxity/
DERMAL smoothness, luminosity, DERMAL THICKNESS/DENSITY
smoothness, texture, and texture, sallowness. and sallowness.
sagging, periorbital darkness, overall
by using by Active using Peel Active System Peel System
brightness, texture, pore size, radiance, 60 Year Old 60 | Native Year Old American | Native | American Female | Female
luminosity, tone and smoothness.
Thirty female subjects between 37 and
Improvements Improvements in appearance in appearance of lines & of wrinkles, lines & wrinkles, laxity/sagging, laxity/sagging, periorbital periorbital darkness,
64 years of age and of various ethnic
backgrounds participated in this study. overall brightness, overall brightness, texture, pore texture, size, pore radiance, size, radiance, luminosity, luminosity, tone, and tone, smoothness. and Subjects were instructed to cleanse their
BEFORE
8 weeks AFTER. Improvements in fine lines and wrinkles,
BEFORE BEFORE
texture, smoothness, luminosity,
8 WEEKS
radiance, brightness
8 WEEKS
and
face, and then use the two-step Active Peel
50 Year 50 Old Year | African Old | African American periorbital American wrinkles. | Female| Female
System every other evening on clean skin
and according to application instructions
for a period of eight weeks. Visia Improvements Improvements in fine lines and fine wrinkles, lines and sallowness, wrinkles, sallowness, texture, and texture, tone. and tone
photographs were taken of each subject at
intervals throughout the study.
48 Year Old 48 | Year Caucasian Old | Caucasian | Female | Female
In this study, skin density/thickness was
evaluated by dermal ultrasound. Higher
values for skin density/thickness correlate
to higher collagen content and younger age. BEFORE BEFORE
8 WEEKS 8 WEEKS
This indicates a more youthful appearance,
better skin recovery and resilience against
traction stress (as with gravity), and delayed
Improvements Improvements in hyperpigmentation, in hyperpigmentation, tone, texture, tone, brightness, texture, smoothness,
brightness, sm
onset of the visual appearance of ageing.
Visia photographs of subjects at 8 weeks
and underlying and inflammation.
underlying inflammation.
demonstrated improvements in sagging,
fine lines and wrinkles, expression lines, BEFORE
52
BEFORE
Year Old 52 | Latinx Year Old | Female | Latinx
4
|
WEEKS
Female
4 WEEKS
BEFORE
8 weeks AFTER. Improvements in appearance of lines
luminosity, smoothness, texture and
BEFORE BEFORE
and wrinkles, laxity/sagging, 8 WEEKS
periorbital darkness, 8 WEEKS overall
brightness, texture, pore size, radiance, luminosity, tone
sallowness, as well as improvements in
and smoothness.
hyperpigmentation, tone, brightness and
luminosity and underlying inflammation.
Ultrasound measurements of dermal
thickness/density indicated a 19% increase
in dermal thickness/density by using Active
Peel System compared with the baseline
at the start of the study. This correlates
to significant improvements in collagen
density and deposition.
Active Peel System was well tolerated by
all subjects and no product-related adverse
events occurred. CBM
BEFORE
BEFORE
BEFORE
8 weeks AFTER. Improvements in hyperpigmentation, tone,
texture, brightness, smoothness and underlying inflammation.
8 WEEKS
8 WEEKS
SKIN-LOVING
BENEFITS
Reduces the
appearance of fine lines
and wrinkles
Powerful, yet gently
resurfaces the skin
Improves skin tone,
texture and smoothness
Improves appearance
of hyperpigmentation,
photodamaged skin,
comedones
and congestion
Provides rapid and
long-term results
Supports collagen
and elastin production
Improves overall health
and integrity of the skin
Well tolerated
Excellent skin prep
for more aggressive
in-office procedures
WHERE TO BUY
Head to www.isclinical.com.au for a list of authorised
clinics and retailers in Australia and New Zealand.
www.cosbeauty.com.au 45
FEATURE
THE NEW
STONE AGE
WHY CRYSTALS
ARE THE NEW
BEAUTY TREND
CRYSTAL HEALING, LONG THE DOMAIN OF
NEW-AGE PSEUDOSCIENCE, IS HAVING A MOMENT
– AND THE BEAUTY INDUSTRY WANTS IN.
During a pretty grim past
couple of years, our homes
have become the centre of
our lives for most of us. Spending
so much time at home has spurred a
shift in our thinking; we’ve come to
realise the importance of creating a
space that supports our day-to-day
practicalities but also our emotional,
mental and spiritual wellbeing.
It’s also been a time to practice
mindfulness and lavish ourselves with
the self-care we’ve all desperately
needed. It’s no wonder then crystals
are trending right now, for uses
ranging from rejuvenating the aura
of our surroundings to releasing
negative energy in our body to even
energising our skin.
‘Despite a lack of scientific
backing, new-age philosophies
are gaining momentum in an
environment where consumer
interest in emotional and spiritual
self-care is closely linked to physical
and mental health and overall
wellness,’ says Irina Ene, researcher
at market intelligence agency, Mintel.
‘Following centuries of Eastern
tradition, healing crystals and
energy cleansing have become
popular methods of promoting
emotional health. Apart from their
physical exfoliating and illuminating
properties, crystals and gemstones
also benefit from a reputed
vibrational energy that helps the user
to set intentions, address fears and
achieve emotional balance, offering
an opportunity to incorporate them
as part of modern self-care beauty
routines,’ she says.
www.cosbeauty.com.au 47
FEATURE
BEAUTY BENEFITS OF
CRYSTALS
Crystal beauty regimens were part of many
ancient civilizations, with many cultures
believing crystals descended straight from
the heavens. Cleopatra even wore Lapis
Lazuli stones crushed as an eyeshadow
(now that’s an expensive eyeshadow!). And
now they are increasingly making their way
into our modern beauty routines. Brands
are exploring the spiritual properties of
crystal healing to create beauty products
with aura-awakening benefits – in the form
of tools and gadgets as well as crystalinfused
beauty products.
Gua Sha tools, as well as jade and
rose quartz rollers, have helped propel
the rebirth of today’s mainstream beauty
crystal trend. Gua Sha is a traditional
Chinese massage technique that uses a
smooth-edged tool to scrape the skin. It is
believed to redirect energy flow and relieve
tension in the muscles. The facial massage
is claimed to boost lymphatic drainage
and circulation, and consequently help to
improve skin tone and elasticity, smooth
wrinkles and improve jawline definition.
Crystals are also showing up in skincare
in the form of crystal or gemstone-infused
exfoliators, micellar waters, moisturisers,
cleansers, serums, oils, masks and even
makeup. It’s thought that infusing crystals
such as rose quartz, tourmaline and
amethyst will interplay with our bodies’
energy fields (chakras) for a myriad of
skin-health benefits.
‘They work at an “energetic” level,’
Sharon Hilditch, founder of
crystalclear.co.uk, told Healthline.
‘Everything contains vibrational energy,
from our own bodies to stationary objects,
which are constantly fluctuating at varying
frequencies.’
It’s believed that the potent energy within
these crystals has the power to influence
human energy, both at a physical and
spiritual level.
While there isn’t any scientific evidence,
anecdotal evidence has shown this high
vibration energy has the power to improve
skin woes such as redness, breakouts, fine
lines and lacklustre complexions.
5
CRYSTALS THAT
BELONG IN
YOUR BEAUTY
ROUTINE
Tourmaline
Tourmaline is said to
energise, boost radiance,
detoxify the skin and
help soothe and resolve
blemishes.
Rainbow Moonstone
Known in the healing arts
as an anti-ageing crystal
connected to feminine energy,
moonstone is said to help
improve the look of fine lines
and wrinkles and an ageing
complexion.
Amethyst
Amethyst is more than just a pretty face. It is touted as restoring
balance and bringing equilibrium to ‘hormonal’ skin. It’s said to
reduce oiliness and remove toxins, provide cleansing properties
and raise your vibration to ward off negative energies.
Rose quartz
Commonly used in facial rollers
for enhanced circulation, rose
quartz is now popping up
in skincare formulations. It’s
believed to calm the skin, boost
circulation and restore vibrancy.
On a spiritual level, it’s also
connected to the heart chakra,
so you’ll also be dosing up on
some self-love to help you shine
from the inside out.
FAST
FACTS
A crystal is any solid material
in which the atoms, molecules
or ions are arranged in a highly
ordered repetitive pattern (similar
to the repeated motifs you would
find in a mosaic) that forms a
three-dimensional lattice, or
shape.
Types of crystals include quartz
(rose quartz and amethyst being
the most well-known), diamonds
and even snowflakes.
The process of crystal forming
is called crystallisation. In nature,
crystals often form when liquids
(such as magma, or liquid rock),
cools and hardens.
Interestingly, a gem can be a
crystal whereas a crystal will not
always be a gem.
Jade
Also well known as a skin
roller, beautiful jade is
believed to soothe sensitive,
irritated skin and promote
harmony and good luck.
www.cosbeauty.com.au 49
FEATURE
CELEB
CRYSTAL
CRUSHES
MIRANDA KERR
Did you know that each KORA Organics
product is infused with rose quartz,
Kerr’s all-time favourite crystal?
‘During the manufacturing process,
all Kora products are filtered and
energised through the rose quartz
crystals, so the vibration of self-love
flows into the products and on to our
customers,’ she told Byrdie.com. ‘I use
crystals every day, and carry them with
me everywhere. Rose quartz carries
soothing energy to encourage love
and acceptance towards both ourselves
and others.’
Credit: Ga Fullner / Shutterstock.com
ADELE
Adele is a big believer in the power of
crystals and how they affect her onstage
performances.
‘I was so nervous about my comeback
show and I was panicking. I was out of
practice and I was busy being a Mum,’
she told The Sun. ‘But it was one of the
best shows I’ve ever done and I had
these bloody crystals in my hand.’
As more ‘proof’ of crystal power, she
lost her crystals before the Grammys,
where technical issues plagued her
now-famous performance. ‘The
Grammys came and I lost my f**king
crystals!’ she explained. ‘It turned
out to be the worst, most disastrous
performance that I have ever done.’
Credit: Tinseltown / Shutterstock.com
Credit: Featureflash Photo Agency / Shutterstock.com
KATY PERRY
Rumours are that Madonna gave Perry
her crystal healer’s number after her
breakup with John Mayer back in 2014
and the singer has never looked back.
‘I don’t stay single for long,’ Perry
told Cosmopolitan. ‘I carry a lot of rose
quartz, which attracts the male. Maybe I
need to calm it down with the amethyst.’
KATE HUDSON
The actress told Marie Claire that she
keeps ‘a crystal bowl filled with rose
quartz heart crystals’ on her nightstand.
Credit: BAKOUNINE / Shutterstock.com
Credit: Kathy Hutchins / Shutterstock.com
VICTORIA BECKHAM
A devout believer in the power of
crystals, Beckham reportedly has
various crystals backstage at her fashion
shows to ward off bad energy and
promote creativity.
‘I currently carry a black obsidian
skull crystal — it’s for protection and
strength,’ she told Vogue. ‘I’m really
into crystals. I’m a real positive thinker.
I believe in creative visualisation — the
glass is always half full. I have no time for
anything negative. I bought crystals for
all my team, so they carry them, too.’
GWYNETH PALTROW
It’s probably not a surprise that this New
Age health ‘guru’ is a fan of crystals.
Her wellness brand Goop even sells a
product that advocates women putting a
jade egg up their lady parts!
www.cosbeauty.com.au 51
FEATURE
MOST POPULAR
CRYSTALS FOR
MENTAL AND
EMOTIONAL
WELLBEING
Amethyst, opal and ruby are the most
sought-after crystals and gemstones,
according to PsychicWorld.com, which
conducted research on the crystals with
the most global searches on Amazon
in 2021. In joint second place are rose
quartz and obsidian. These healing
crystals are thought to expel negative
energy and rejuvenate your aura.
PsychicWorld.com also collaborated
with crystal healer Inbaal Honigman,
who provides insight into how to
harness the energy of the highestranking
crystals:
Opal
Creativity is at the heart of this
crystal. Opal removes blocks to
your creative self and through
this increases your sense of
self-worth and brings your
deepest truths to the forefront of
your conscious. In moments of
insecurity, take time to touch and
look at your Opal stone bringing
both calmness and confidence
to your aura. Let its creative flair
wash over you and embrace your
witty, friendly and open self.
Amethyst
This powerful crystal helps with all
things spiritual – working to promote
calmness, uplift your emotions and
activate your third eye. Through
simply placing this purple gem on
your forehead, navel or heart, angers
and frustrations will be immediately
released from your body, cleansing
your aura. Use this crystal to your
advantage when you need to keep
calm in challenging situations - take
a little amethyst in your pocket into
a job interview, or place one in your
car before a long drive to promote
mental stability.
Sources: https://www.mintel.com/blog/beauty-market-news/whats-the-deal-with-crystals-in-beauty
https://www.healthline.com/health/beauty-skin-care/gemstone-infused-beauty-products-are-they-worth-it
Ruby
Passion, courage and vitality are
qualities shared by red stones. Rubies
bring an added element of purification,
protection and good physical health. If
you struggle with motivation, wear your
ruby throughout the day to balance
your energies and clarify your goals,
promoting an abundant aura.
WHAT IS
CRYSTAL
HEALING?
Crystal healing uses crystals and
other stones as conduits for
natural healing energy. It is based
on the purported energetic
power of crystals and how they
affect the mind and body, by
absorbing, storing, releasing and
regulating energies.
Holding crystals or placing
them on the body is believed to
ward off negative energy and
encourage physical, emotional
and spiritual healing. It is thought
crystals do this by interacting
with your body’s energy field,
or chakra. While some crystals
are said to alleviate stress,
others purportedly improve
concentration or creativity.
Whether you’re a devout
believer of crystal healing or just
drawn to their beauty and cool
touch, crystals offer a serene selfcare
experience that promotes
mindfulness, reflection and
positive energy. And keeping
good vibes around never hurt
anybody. CBM
www.cosbeauty.com.au 53
Skincare
SKIN
myths
BUSTED
COULD THE ACTIVE INGREDIENTS IN YOUR
SKINCARE PRODUCT BE DOING MORE DAMAGE
THAN GOOD TO YOUR SKIN? WE CHAT TO
MESOESTETIC PHARMA GROUP PRODUCT
MANAGER MARIE CARMEN VAQUERO TO
SEPARATE FACT FROM FICTION.
Q. Can active acids in
cleansers and exfoliators
cause long-term damage?
Absolutely not. With regard to acids,
understanding the type of acid and
its concentration in a product is key
to understanding the benefits. For
example, the combination of acids in
mesoestetic ultimate micropeel has been
intentionally modulated to work gently
and gradually on the stratum corneum
at a surface level. The aim
is to help facilitate exfoliation and
to visibly smooth and refine skin
texture, enhancing the skin’s natural
renewal process.
Q. Can AHAs such
as glycolic acid thin
the skin?
The use of AHAs in home care
products is highly regulated to ensure
that they do not pose a risk to the skin.
Again, understanding the type of acid
and its concentration in a product is
key to understanding the benefits.
Glycolic acid, within the family of
AHAs, is a molecule with a smaller
structure; therefore, unlike other acids,
it is capable of penetrating into the
deeper layers, making it a powerful and
effective acid.
Its presence in mesoestetic’s
ultimate micropeel is very small.
By combining it with other acids,
such as lactic, malic, tartaric and
lactobionic acid, it can work effectively
to help encourage the renewal and
refining action in the skin without
compromising the barrier function.
Q. Should you use SPF30
or above if using acids
like AHAs and exfoliants
as they increase
sensitivity to UV light?
After using AHAs, you must apply
sunscreen. However, you should
not just be applying sunscreen when
using skincare with AHAs; sun
protection is an essential step in any
daily skincare routine.
www.cosbeauty.com.au 55
SKIN
Q. How important is
percentage strength when
it comes to AHAs?
AHAs are not found in excessively
high concentrations in home
care products, so as to ensure
skin tolerance.
A higher concentration of AHAs
provides a stronger action. As the
concentration increases in the formula,
it acidifies; that is, the product’s pH
drops, reaching pH values that limit
its use exclusively to medical-aesthetic
professionals. We are referring to
products with a highly acidic pH,
such as chemical peels, products that
should be applied and supervised
by a professional.
Beyond the concentration of each
AHA, in home care products we use
different combinations to ensure an
effective exfoliating action. The main
issue with AHAs or acids in general is
skin tolerance, especially in sensitive
skin. This is why we recommend a
gradual use in this skin type, starting
with lower concentrations and limiting
the frequency of use.
Q. The best exfoliators
are those using granular
exfoliators. Is this true?
If not, what are the main
differences between
physical and chemical
exfoliation?
Exfoliators contain microparticles
that have a physical exfoliating action.
They eliminate dead skin through
mechanical action and the friction
exerted by these particles, but only
at a superficial level. This type of
exfoliation is very effective; however,
it may be more aggressive if not
carried out properly. Intense friction
or a strong massage with
the aim of achieving a better result
can cause micro-cuts in the skin,
damage the pores and even lead to
sensitive skin. Therefore, ‘stronger’
does not mean better. This type of
exfoliation is not recommended for
sensitive skin.
On the other hand, chemical
exfoliation consists of applying acids
or enzymes that dissolve the bonds
between dead skin and tissue. The
main difference between physical and
chemical exfoliation is that chemical
does not require friction. This makes
chemical exfoliators more versatile,
which is why they can be found in
the form of cleansers, toners, serums
and creams.
Depending on the nature and
structure of the acid, they can reach
the deeper layers of the skin, achieving
longer lasting results that go beyond
simply renewing the surface layer.
Although this type of exfoliation
is suitable for all skin types, even
sensitive skin, it is important to
identify your skin type in order to use
the acid type that best suits your needs
and tolerance.
Q. Does exfoliation work
better on certain skin
types over others?
Exfoliation works well on all types of
skin, including sensitive skin. However,
based on your skin type, you should
choose an exfoliator that best suits
your needs and apply it as often as
your skin allows. For example, sensitive
skin is irritated and reddens easily,
so it requires formulas with gentle
exfoliating agents, such as enzyme
exfoliants, which are active substances
that encourage skin renewal, thus
improving the appearance of skin’s
texture and smoothness.
Q. How often and when
should you exfoliate (AM
or PM)?
The frequency of use will depend on
your skin type and individual needs
and preferences, as well as whether you
are using physical or chemical peels.
With physical peels, which are more
aggressive, you should avoid daily use,
as excessive exfoliation could lead to
sensitive skin.
In terms of whether application is
better AM or PM, it depends on your
individual preference and skincare
routine. At night, the skin undergoes
a regeneration process to help recover
from the aggressions experienced
during the day.
Exfoliating at night enhances
this process; therefore, in terms of
renewal, it acts in synergy with this
natural biological process. However,
used in the morning, it helps to
eliminate impurities produced during
the night in order to avoid pore
obstruction, which, for example, may
be preferable in oily skin due to the
overproduction of sebum.
It is important to follow the
recommendations of a professional
in terms of application, frequency of
use and when to apply it based on the
type and condition of your skin at a
specific time.
Q. It’s often said that
micellar water cannot
cope with waterproof
makeup and does
not cleanse the skin
thoroughly enough. Is
this true?
Waterproof makeup is formulated
with a base of oils and waxes and,
therefore, is lipid in nature. It is
commonly known that the best way
to remove oil is with oil itself; hence,
it is effectively removed using balms,
oil-based makeup removers or twophase
solutions, such as mesoestetic’s
micellar biphasic.
Micellar biphasic is a makeup
remover combining an oil phase,
rich in omega 6, and an aqueous
phase that, unlike other biphasic
makeup removers, contains micelles.
The presence of micelles helps in a
more effective cleansing action in the
aqueous phase, eliminating the need
for excessive friction when removing
impurities and makeup. micellar
biphasic is not a micellar water; it
is a more comprehensive product
specifically formulated for eyes and
lips. CBM
PHYSICAL EXFOLIATORS
ELIMINATE DEAD
SKIN THROUGH
MECHANICAL ACTION
(MICROPARTICLES).
CHEMICAL EXFOLIATORS
USE ACIDS OR ENZYMES
THAT DISSOLVE THE
BONDS BETWEEN DEAD
SKIN AND TISSUE.
www.cosbeauty.com.au 57
GOT MASKNE?
GET HYDRAFACIAL!
SKIN
FIGHT BACK AGAINST
MASKNE AND JOIN
THE #GLOWVOLUTION
WITH HYDRAFACIAL,
THE NEXT-GEN SKIN
REJUVENATION
TREATMENT THAT HAS
AMASSED FANS THE
WORLD OVER.
Just when we’re finally getting a handle on
our skin situation, there’s an additional
assault we have to deal
with: maskne. Wearing a mask can trap dirt
and oil in your pores, seriously aggravating
skin and manifesting in irritation, dryness
and breakouts.
Since wearing a mask is essential during
these times, it’s even more important to
give your skin all the help it needs! Step
in HydraFacial, the ultimate facial that
gently cleanses, cleans out pores and infuses
moisture back to where it’s needed most.
HydraFacial has become one of the most
popular skin treatments for its gentle,
quick and highly effective skin resurfacing
treatment – and now it’s become the facial
of choice to help combat maskne. Performed
somewhere in the world every 15 seconds
and adored by the A-list (Beyoncé, Kate
Winslet and Amy Poehler are just a few
fan-girls), HydraFacial is no ordinary facial.
In just three steps and 30 minutes, it offers
the best skin of your life and a very effective
solution to maskne.
SINCE WEARING A MASK IS ESSENTIAL DURING THESE
TIMES, IT’S EVEN MORE IMPORTANT TO GIVE YOUR SKIN
ALL THE HELP IT NEEDS.
WHAT’S
HYDRAFACIAL
FOR?
Fine lines + Wrinkles
Even Tone + Vibrancy
Skin Texture
Brown Spots
Oily + Congested Skin
Enlarged Pores
Maskne
WHAT EXACTLY IS
HYDRAFACIAL?
HydraFacial is an in-clinic facial cleanse,
skin resurfacing and antioxidant
boost in one quick, easy and pleasant
skincare session.
It uses advanced, patented vortex
technology to deeply cleanse the skin
and effectively deliver ingredients such
as hyaluronic acid, horse chestnut seed
extract, red algae extract, copper, zinc
and magnesium peptides.
HydraFacial also delivers powerful
antioxidants to counteract damage by
free radicals – from pollution, sun and
stress – which can degrade the skin
and accelerate the ageing process, as well
as the irritation and breakouts
from maskne.
Each HydraFacial treatment around
the world uses the same multi-step
treatment process to guarantee
consistent, noticeable skin revitalisation.
The three steps involved work together
to elevate good results on their own to
exceptional results synergistically.
The first step is the Cleanse + Peel,
which involves a deep cleanse and gentle
exfoliation and resurfacing to uncover
a new layer of skin. The second step
is Extract + Hydrate, which includes
a painless vortex extraction device
that removes debris from your pores
while delivering intense moisturisers
that nourish skin. The last step is
Fuse + Protect, which is an infusion
of hyaluronic acid, antioxidants and
vitamins that work to restore, plump and
hydrate the complexion.
Suitable for all skin types, HydraFacial
improves the appearance of maskne,
fine lines, wrinkles, congested and
enlarged pores, oily or acne prone skin,
hyperpigmentation and brown spots.
Each treatment creates an instant ‘wow
factor’ in terms of brighter, smoother
and more radiant skin.
Oh, and did we mention the whole
treatment takes just 30 minutes and
there is no downtime? This is our holy
grail of facials. CBM
WHERE TO GET IT
To find a HydraFacial practitioner in your area,
visit www.likeyourlook.com.au
www.cosbeauty.com.au 59
SkinMTX ®
SKIN
the targeted
skincare
solution we
all need
SKINMTX, AN AWARD-WINNING
DERMATOLOGICAL-GRADE SKINCARE
BRAND, OFFERS TARGETED
IN-CLINIC AND HOMECARE SKINCARE
SOLUTIONS THAT BOAST UNRIVALLED
POTENCY AND SUPERIOR RESULTS.
Now available in Australia,
SkinMTX is an award-winning,
dermatological-grade skincare
brand that leverages Swiss expertise
for clinically-proven skin treatment
solutions. In addition to an impressive
repertoire of in-clinic professional
treatments, the cult brand offers
targeted at-home solutions for a range
of skin types and needs.
Colour coded by skin concern,
SkinMTX products can easily be mixed
and matched to tailor treatment to your
specific needs.
SkinMTX Anti-Ageing
Activates your skin’s restorative
ability to help preserve a
youthful-looking appearance
The SkinMTX Anti-Ageing range
features the signature active, Acetyl
Hexapeptide-8, which is clinically
proven to minimise the appearance
of fine lines and wrinkles caused
by repeated facial contractions. It
targets the same protein complex
as muscle relaxants, but in a less
invasive and non-permanent way.
The Anti-Ageing range also
features the revolutionary
TeloZyme Complex TM , which is
based on the Nobel Prize-winning
discovery of telomeres (the end
caps of DNA that protect the
chromosomes). Scientists have
discovered that as we grow
older, telomeres at the end of
our chromosomes shrink, which
accelerates the ageing process.
Chromosomal DNA is compromised
when the telomeres wear out, causing
cellular senescence.
SkinMTX’s TeloZyme Complex TM is
clinically proven to target telomeres.
TeloZyme Youth Activator
A multi-faceted serum based on
the Nobel Prize-winning research of
telomere biology. Works at the key
matrix of skin’s youthful appearance
to reinforce and protect skin’s
structural integrity. Helps to visibly
redensify the skin and prevent the
visible signs of ageing.
TeloLift Neck Cream
Formulated exclusively for the specific
needs of the neck and décolleté to
help address visible signs of ageing.
The rich cream creates an invisible
supportive network, helping to regain
definition to the neckline.
Fine Line Eraser Serum
A potent serum formulated
with advanced peptides that
promotes youthful-looking skin.
It acts to markedly reduce the
appearance of fine lines and
wrinkles caused by repeated
contraction of facial muscles.
Ultimate Fine Line Eraser
An advanced cream formulation
that efficaciously helps defend
against the signs of ageing.
Nourishing and moisturising
active ingredients work
synergistically to help reduce
the appearance of expression
lines and wrinkles. Skin is
rejuvenated with increased
suppleness and firmness.
www.cosbeauty.com.au 61
SkinMTX Brightening
SkinMTX Brightening
SKIN
Helps minimise the appearance of
pigmentation, dark spots and scars
for luminous skin
The Brightening range’s key active is
Alpha-Arbutin, which has been proven
to have a brightening effect on the
skin without the toxicity and irritation
associated with hydroquinone.
Hydroquinone has long been
considered the gold standard for
the treatment of hyperpigmentation.
While clinical studies report excellent
depigmentation responses induced
by 2% hydroquinone, it has also been
shown to cause adverse effects such
as dermatitis, loss of skin elasticity,
increased photosensitivity and postinflammatory
pigmentation.
Alpha-Arbutin has been proven
to have effective results, even when
compared to the chemically-similar
molecules of hydroquinone. In
addition to higher efficacy, it is also
more gentle than hydroquinone.
These characteristics make it the go-to
active for brightening of the
complexion and minimisation
of dark spots on the skin.
Alpha Optimal Brightener
Absorbs instantly into the
skin to help reduce the
appearance of spots and
freckles. Efficiently restores
a brightened complexion in
a shorter time compared to
conventional brightening formulas.
Alpha Illuminator
Imparts translucency and glow to the
complexion with its skin unifying actions.
It boosts moisture levels and helps
strengthen skin’s barrier to reveal a
uniform skin tone, radiance and clarity.
Radiance Cleansing Wash
This non-stripping gel cleanser reveals
skin’s natural radiance while helping
to keep the skin’s hydrolipid film intact
to prevent over-drying and irritation.
Skin is refreshed and prepped for
optimal nutrient absorption from
succeeding skincare steps.
Lumi Cleansing Milk
This light and creamy cleanser
removes impurities, dissolves
makeup and dead skin cells
to leave skin feeling soft and
comfortable, and appearing
brighter and renewed.
SkinMTX Anti-Acne
Purifies skin for clarity and
long-lasting mattness
This range offers a reliable solution to
help treat and control the appearance of
blemishes. High-potency products are
specially formulated to penetrate into
the skin to help achieve visible results.
Together, the three specialist products
help unclog pores and blackheads, gently
cleanse and resurface skin and promote a
shine-free complexion.
Comedone Acti-Clear Lotion
Exfoliating actives help clear pore
blockages, dissolve excessive surface
build-up, prevent recurrence of
blackheads and defend against breakoutcausing
environmental aggressors. Pores
appear visibly refined, skin is smoother
and clarified.
Acti-Pure Cleansing Gel
A gentle yet effective cleanser that
dissolves impurities to leave skin
feeling clean and refreshed. The
gel deeply purifies and minimises
the look of pores without leaving
any tightness or residue. Helps
clear clogged follicles, soothes
inflammation and prevents the
appearance of future breakouts.
Acti-Matte Concentrate
This formulation is carefully
blended to strip away excess oil
while replenishing skin moisture,
preventing visible skin irritations
and promoting a healthy-looking,
balanced complexion. Pores are
blurred and skin texture smoothed
with an energised matte finish.
SkinMTX Dermat
Recommended for post-laser
and post-procedure
The demand for aesthetic medical and
surgical procedures has been steadily
increasing over the past 2 decades and
is forecasted to continue to grow. The
increase in demand is closely followed
by the increase in expectations for
a better outcome with minimal side
effects and shorter recovery time.
SkinMTX’s Dermat Series is specially
formulated to provide essential
post-procedure care to maximise
the treatment outcome, optimise
recovery, minimise risks of infection
and scarring while providing comfort
from tenderness.
Delicate Cleansing Mousse
An ultra-gentle mousse designed
to cleanse delicate post-procedure
skin. Its frictionless, dense foam is
perfect for compromised skin, mildly
yet effectively removing dirt and
impurities while replenishing the skin’s
Natural Moisturising Factor (NMF)
with amino acids and emollients to
preserve moisture balance. A blend
of 7 botanical extracts, vitamins A, B,
C, essential minerals and antioxidants
soothes skin sensitivity and irritation
after harsh treatments. It also helps
maintain skin’s microbial balance to
help optimise the skin recovery process.
Hydrating Mist
A specially formulated mist to help
restore compromised skin after
undergoing harsh laser treatments or
aesthetic procedures. The fine spray
envelopes the skin with a soothing
protective layer, helping calm irritations
and restore comfort to sensitised skin.
Boosts the skin with optimal, lasting
hydration; keeping tightness and
dryness at bay.
Advanced Restorative Serum
An intensive care formulation that
aids in skin recovery after aggressive
aesthetic treatments, helping
compromised skin reclaim comfort and
equilibrium. Its intensively soothing and
moisturising properties help restore
skin balance, providing much needed
calming relief from burning sensations
that typically succeed a laser treatment.
Bio-mimetic peptides help reinstate
skin’s integrity, creating an optimal
environment for skin recovery.
Advanced Reconditioning Cream
This protective cream is specially
formulated to offer aid in the recovery
of the skin barrier after harsh aesthetic
procedures. It helps protect the skin
from excessive dryness, visible redness
and irritations with its potent calming
and reparative ingredients. Designed to
create an optimum environment for skin
to recuperate, the complex of ceramide
and bisabolol provide a protective
“second skin”, shielding the underlying
skin from external aggressors while
it helps the skin rebuild its moisture
barrier. Concurrently, a synergistic blend
of skin restoring actives promotes a
healthy-looking complexion, bringing
forth optimal skin restoration that
results in a renewed, pristine-looking
complexion.
www.cosbeauty.com.au 63
SkinMTX Special Care
SKIN
A special repertoire of products
to achieve a rigorous regimen for
youthful-looking skin
This intense skin restoration range
features patented key actives that
effectively boost critical aspects of
the skin rejuvenation process. These
include: BioRenew Peptide, which
helps boost skin’s appearance;
PhytoActive+, which magnifies
the reparative powers of stem
cells for superior skin repair and
rejuvenation; ActiMarine Hydrator,
which boosts 3 major skin restorative
functions – the physical barrier,
chemical barrier, and hydra memory
function; and RejuvorA – a unique,
improved form of retinol complex
using a revolutionary encapsulation
system to help overcome the
disadvantages of conventional
retinol, while improving efficacy.
Peptide Serum+
This advanced multi-faceted serum
contains actives that has been
shown to improve skin renewal
by up to 88% in 15 days. Powerful
proprietary rejuvenating actives
and nutrient clusters are delivered
deep into the skin to encourage
equilibrium, helping reinforce skin’s
resilience against environmental
aggressors and returning a youthfullook
to skin. Skin becomes wellhydrated
and complexion glows with
a lustrous shine.
Intense RejuvorA Cream
This hero anti-ageing product
provides impressive skin renewal
and rejuvenative actions – while
helping provide stellar protection
against free radicals and the signs of
ageing - making retinol rejuvenation
more effective to help improve the
appearance of wrinkles, brighten the
skin and retexturise the complexion.
Combining Vitamin C and E, the
active mix works synergistically to
help improve skin vitality, visibly
even out skin tone and fight against
free radicals and the appearance
of photoageing. As skin’s innate
self-renewal system powers up, the
complexion revives with tonicity,
tautness and radiance.
Potent Eye Concentrate
Dramatically promotes the youthful
appearance of eyes with this intensive
eye contour formula specially
designed for skin’s most delicate
areas. The exclusive combination of
advanced actives helps visibly smooth,
firm and tighten skin texture to reduce
the appearance of fine lines, crow’s
feet and puffiness. It deeply infuses
skin with vital moisture, improving skin
tautness around the eye area.
Potent C
This Vitamin C concentrate promotes
an intensive brightening action to
target appearance of discolouration.
The inclusion of efficacious, potent
actives provides targeted action
to help brighten the appearance
of unsightly marks, dark spots and
freckles while building up skin’s
defenses against the appearance of
future pigmentation.
Supreme Eye Brightening Gel
Brightening actives aid in diminishing
the appearance of dark circles to
restore vibrancy and luminosity of the
eye contours. Eye puffiness is visibly
reduced as caffeine helps stimulate
the drainage of excessive fluid.
Mineral-Rich Body Moisturizer
Specially formulated to remineralise
the skin, this mineral-rich hand and
body lotion pampers your skin with
ultimate delights while infusing skin
with essential nutrients from the Dead
Sea. Its luxurious texture ensures
smooth gliding without leaving a
sticky feel on the skin, enveloping the
skin with a veil of velvety softness. The
unsurpassed hydration benefits relieve
dryness, tightness and sensitive
reactions that are caused by skin
dehydration.
3 In 1 Matt Tinted Protector
Naturally shield and nourish skin every
day with this free radical-inhibitor,
vitamin-infused matt sun protection.
Provides sun protection plus
environmental protection. This light
universal-tinted formula helps corrects
uneven skin tones with an immediate
refined finish.
Skin Brightening Day Protector
A refreshing, non-greasy, emulsion
easily absorbed by skin provides
sun protection while enhancing skin
luminosity. A perfect balance of active
ingredients and innovative delivery
mechanisms.
Smart Shield Protector
This light, smooth tinted sun
protection blends seamlessly with
most skin types and colours, imparting
an even skin tone and light coverage
while providing defense against sun’s
damaging rays. CBM
ABOUT SKINMTX
Made in Switzerland and Singapore, SkinMTX ®
is a dermatological-grade skincare brand
formulated for proven, sustainable results. Driving
innovations in aesthetic skincare for over two
decades, the brand has received worldwide
industry recognition for its cutting edge
technology and product efficacy. Most recently,
SkinMTX ® TeloZyme Youth Activator was
awarded the title 2021 Beauty Insider Best in Anti-
Ageing. This multifaceted serum, based on the
Nobel prize-winning discovery of telomeres, has
been specially formulated to target the integrity
of telomeres for younger looking skin.
WHERE TO GET IT
SkinMTX ® is exclusively available in select
clinics and at www.skinmtx.com.au.
www.cosbeauty.com.au 65
BEAUTY
POST-
SUMMER
HAIR
REVIVAL
TRESSES IN DISTRESS? PREPARE TO REPAIR WITH
THESE HYDRATING HAIR HEROES.
T
he summertime combination of sun, salt and
chlorine all conspire to strip hair of moisture,
leaving it frizzy, dry and dull. Thankfully, hair responds
well to a little TLC and, with the right products,
it’s not too late to restore your crowning glory to its
most beautiful.
evo bradford
pin bristle brush, $50
www.cosbeauty.com.au
67
BACK TO BASICS
BEAUTY
Like skincare, a good basic hair care routine
is key to achieving results. Most of your
favourite brands offer ranges targeting
specific concerns and there are many
options for dry post-summer hair.
When it comes to daily care, it’s worth
noting that your hair may not require
washing as often as you think it does. The
general consensus is that shampooing
should only take place every two to three
days and shampoo should be rinsed out
with lukewarm (not hot) water to help avoid
damage and moisture loss.
Prevention is far better than trying to cure
hair damage. By investing in a nourishing
conditioner, you are already well on your
way to preserving the health and lustre
of your hair. Top it off with a weekly hair
repair treatment. Once again, there are
many to choose from depending on your
preferences and needs – everything from
thick, rich hair masks to leave-in spray and
oil formulations.
When using an intensive conditioner or
treatment, wrap hair in a towel to keep heat
in and allow the product to penetrate. Five
minutes should be enough; hair is spongelike
in structure and once it is saturated it
cannot absorb more product no matter how
long you leave it on.
WE LOVE
1. Joico Hydra Splash Trio includes Hydrating Shampoo 300ml, Hydrating Conditioner 250ml and Replenishing Leave-in
100ml, $103.85, 2. Grow Longer Stronger Stimulating Scalp Scrub 140g, $16.99, 3. Joico Humidity Blocker+ Protective
Finishing Spray, $31.95, 4. Arbonne TrueSmooth Rich Lather Shampoo & Conditioner, $48 each, 5. Klorane Cupuacu
Shampoo and Conditioner 200ml, $14.99 each, 6. Oribe Shampoo for Moisture & Control 250ml, $68, and Conditioner
200ml, $72, 7.Wella Professionals Fusion Intense Repair Trio includes Shampoo 250ml, Conditioner 200ml and Mask
150ml, $94, 8. Wella Professionals Invigo Blonde Recharge Color Refreshing Shampoo and Conditioner, Cool Blonde
200ml, $28.95 each, 9. Philip Kingsley Moisture Extreme Shampoo 250ml & Conditioner 200ml, $44 each, 10. Pump
Anti Frizz Shampoo & Conditioner 205ml, $34.95 each.
www.cosbeauty.com.au 69
HAIR SOS
BEAUTY
If your hair is in dire need, look for intensive specialty hair
products such as an after-sun or post-pool rescue treatment,
which help to smooth damaged cuticles and protect against
split ends, breakage and environmental damage from wind,
sun, chlorine and sea salt. These can be used as a mask after
shampooing (leave it in for five minutes, then rinse out) or a
small amount can be applied daily to the ends of the hair to
protect and smooth.
Be on the lookout for formulations containing keratin,
amino acids, ceramides and shea butter which all work to
calm and nourish severely frazzled frizz and help reverse the
damaging effects of the sun, sea and chlorine. If you’re on a
budget, coconut oil is a great DIY option for nourishing your
tresses without breaking the bank.
WE LOVE
1. Grow Longer Stronger Anti-Breakage Hair Mask 50ml,
$5.99, 2. Hair Rituel by Sisley Restructuring Nourishing
Balm 125g, $160, 3. Klorane Cupuacu Mask 150ml,
$25.99, 4. Hair Rituel by Sisley Protective Hair Fluid
150ml, $120, 5. Hair Rituel by Sisley Regenerating Hair
Care Mask 200ml, $130, 6. Hair Rituel by Sisley La Crème
230 150ml, $125, 7. Kemon Actyva Bellessere Oil, $39.95,
8. Davines Su Hair Mask 150ml, $46.95, 9. Philip Kingsley
Elasticizer 150ml, $72.75
The haircare
habits you
need to break!
Since hair is most fragile when it’s wet, don’t rip
a brush through it after swimming. Spray some
detangler on it, then use a wide-tooth comb to
minimise breakage.
Summer heat practically demands we throw
our hair back, but pulling our hair back too
tightly can cause breakage, particularly if hair
health is already compromised. Aim for loose
buns and ponytails, and let your hair down
before going to sleep at night.
Don’t dive straight into the water without first
wetting your hair with fresh water. Hair is super
porous and absorbent. If you spray water over
your hair (or better yet apply hair oil or a mask)
before entering the pool or ocean, your tresses
won’t soak up such high quantities of drying
and damaging salt and chlorine. CBM
1. Coco & Eve Like a Virgin Hair Masque
$57.90 2. Thanks To Nature Hydrate &
Nourish Masque 350ml, $20, 3. Philip
Kingsley Swimcap Water Resistant Mask 75ml,
$42, 4. Arbonne TrueSmooth Apple Vinegar
Hair Rinse, $37.
www.cosbeauty.com.au 71
BEAUTY
THE AUSSIE BRANDS
Australia
LIVING IN AUSTRALIA, THERE’S
A LOT TO BE THANKFUL FOR
– INCLUDING AN IMPRESSIVE
LINE-UP OF HOMEGROWN
BEAUTY BRANDS. HERE ARE
SOME OF OUR FAVOURITES
PRODUCTS TO GIVE YOU THAT
UNDENIABLE AUSSIE GLOW.
It’s tough to stay looking good in one
of the world’s harshest climates, but
we Aussies are the pros. With our
diverse soils and climates, Australia
has the luxury of growing its own
fresh produce, with very little need
to import from overseas. So as well
as ensuring the nation eats well, this
also helps Aussie brands lead the
way with sustainable, eco-friendly
beauty products. Quality ingredients,
formulations and manufacturing is
ensuring the Aussie beauty brand
continues to grow both locally and
throughout the world.
72 www.cosbeauty.com.au
KEEPING
beautiful
www.cosbeauty.com.au 73
24
BEAUTY
AUSSIE BEAUTY BRANDS
YOU SHOULD KNOW ABOUT
ASPECT MINERALS
Established in 2007 in Melbourne,
Aspect Skincare is one of the
leading cosmeceutical skincare
brands in Australia and New
Zealand, offering a range of
medical-grade cosmeceutical
products that deliver highperforming
active ingredients
to help cosmetically correct skin
without irritation. Following on
from their huge success in the
skincare space, the Aussie-made
brand extended its range last
year to include Aspect Minerals,
a comforting, high-performance
makeup line free from parabens,
SLS, mineral oil and vegan friendly.
TRY
Aspect Minerals Powder and
Liquid, $59 each
CONSERVING BEAUTY
Conserving Beauty is Australia’s first
water-responsible beauty brand.
Water is a diminishing resource, with
research indicating that two-thirds of
the population will live in a watershortage
environment by 2035.
Conserving Beauty is on a mission
to reduce the beauty industry’s
water footprint with innovative
products formulated entirely without
water, so that water isn’t wasted
and the products you buy only
contain pure, active ingredients.
Most beauty products are 70-90%
water, with 2-20% active ingredients.
Conserving Beauty is made
with zero water and 100% active
ingredients (no ‘fillers’, preservatives
or fragrances whatsoever).
TRY
Conserving Beauty Conserve You
Face Oil, $55
VELA DAYS
Vela Days is an Australian luxury
hemp-based skincare range. Its
active compound, CannaComplex,
is derived from pharmaceutical
hemp seed extract and THC-free
hemp stem cells, offering antiinflammatory
and active healing
properties for calmer, smoother and
more radiant skin. Sustainability
is also at the core of Vela Days
ensuring its operations and all
suppliers are carbon neutral.
TRY
Vela Days Lipid Complex
CannaComplex Cleansing
Balm 100ml, $89; Oil Infusion
CannaComplex Fortifying Oil Serum
30ml, $110; Active Compound
CannaComplex Multi-Active Facial
Serum 30ml, $102
MINENSSEY
Minenssey skincare is dedicated
to creating potent formulas using
the best of Australia’s botanical
ingredients. With an emphasis
on cultivating and maintaining
healthy skin, using an only-theessentials
approach, their formulas
are concentrated with the right
dosage of evidence-based active
ingredients – what they leave out is
just as important as what they put in.
TRY
Minenssey Treatment Mask,
5 Sheets, $50
BONDI SANDS
Australian owned and made (and
globally loved), Bondi Sands now
has its own skincare line in addition
to its best-selling self-tanning
products. High-quality formulas work
to help give you glowing, healthy
skin, hydrating and nourishing with
each application. These are the new
skin staples for any skin junkie.
TRY
Bondi Sands Fresh’n Up Nourishing
Gel Cleanser 150ml, $14.95; Gold’n
Hour Vitamin C Serum 30ml, $17.95;
Daydream Whipped Moisturiser
50ml, $16.95
DAVROE
Davroe’s philosophy is simple: to
create an honest and pure range
of hair care products for everyone.
Owner Mary Centofanti and her
team make every effort to ensure
their products are natural, vegan,
sensitive to the environment and
only ever use ingredients of the
highest quality. They’re also proudly
100% Australian made and owned
– and will seriously improve the
condition of your hair.
TRY
Davroe Argon Oil Instant Treatment,
$25.95
LOVEBYT
Meet your new oral hygiene crush.
LOVEBYT is a 100% natural, vegan
and fluoride-free toothpaste made
in Australia using a premium blend
of botanical ingredients andno nasty
chemicals. Backed by dentists, this
is *the* toxin-free oral health care
brand we’ve needed.
TRY
LOVBYT Mini Charcoal & Mint
Toothpaste, $8.95
POD ORGANICS
Pod Organics offers organic, vegan,
sustainable, ethically sourced
skincare products for the whole
family, inspired by Australian native
bushlands. Winner of three Organic
Beauty Awards for Best Clean
Products of 2021, this is a beautiful
collection of natural skincare and
products for the home.
TRY
Pod Organics All Over Nurturing
Balm, $13.95
VANESSA MEGAN
Vanessa Megan products are
handmade in Australia and are
certified Cruelty Free. The natural
range encompasses skincare,
body care and fragrance with
highly effective botanicals and
results-driven formulations. It’s also
the exclusive skincare choice for
Gwinganna Lifestyle Retreat, winner
of the World’s Best Eco Spa of 2020.
TRY
Vanessa Megan Cryō Rosé Ice
Cube Treatment, $34.95
www.cosbeauty.com.au 75
BEAUTY
TROPICOLOGY
Tropicology is one of the pioneers
of natural, sustainable, organic,
cruelty-free skincare. Its products are
the fruits, quite literally, of Tropical
Fruit World, a family-run biologically
sustainable plantation and tourist
attraction in the hinterland of
Kingscliff in NSW. Tropicology
skincare is inspired by the healing
and restorative properties of the
fruits and botanicals nurtured and
harvested on the farm, particularly
the avocado tree, of which they have
18 different varieties. Antioxidantrich
organic avocado oil is used in
all Tropicology products, further
complemented by active botanicals
and Australian native extracts.
TRY
Tropicology Avocado Lip Balm,
$19.95
THE SECRET SKINCARE
The Secret is Australia’s first
prescription-only skincare range
and is founded by Perth-based
cosmetic doctors Dr Clara Hurst
and Dr Deb Cohen-Jones. Carefully
researched and formulated with
medical-strength ingredients such
as tretinoin and hydroquinone, The
Secret range is custom-made for
each patient to treat their specific
skin concerns. Each formulation
contains a unique combination of
prescription-strength ingredients
in a patented base which provides
the optimal carriage of these
compounds. The focus is on
increasing skin clarity, treating fine
lines and skin laxity, eliminating
pigmentation and breakouts and
achieving that coveted Secret glow.
TRY
The Secret The Serum, $130
INVISIBLE ZINC
Invisibe Zinc is to sunscreen what
Vegemite is to toast. This is suncare
made in Australia for the toughest of
Australian climates. Unlike chemical
sunscreens that absorb the sun’s
UV rays, Invisible Zinc uses naturally
sourced Zinc Oxide to create a
protective shield on the surface of
your skin, reflecting both UVA and
UVB rays.
SUNBUTTER
Our oceans are under threat from
pollution, and many sunscreens
are contributing to the problem.
Whilst providing your skin with
UV protection, widely accepted
sunscreen chemicals are also
killing corals, causing toxic build-up
in marine animal tissues and
putting a strain on our ocean’s
ecosystems. SunButter was founded
by two marine biologists with a
dedication to create the most
effective, environmentally gentle
and reef-safe Sunscreen formula on
the market, packaged in reusable
and recyclable tins. This is a new
generation of suncare that is skin
and earth conscious.
TRY
SunButter SPF 50 Water Resistant
Reef Safe Sunscreen, $29.95
TRY
Invisible Zinc Sheer Defence, $34
WE ARE FEEL GOOD INC.
Hailed as the sunscreen you can feel
good about, this Australian owned
and made suncare range is perfectly
suited to the adventure-driven
Aussie lifestyle. We Are Feel Good
Inc products are tested to hold up
in the toughest of climates, as well
as being paraben, oxybenzone,
octinoxate and PABA free. The
founders (including a doctor,
builder and pro surfer) wanted to
create a product that nourished
and supported the skin without
compromising sun protection
capabilities, so they added skinloving
ingredients like Vitamin E and
aloe vera to sweeten the deal.
SKINSTITUT
We’ve been using this Aussie
brand for years and will happily
sing its praises, namely that it’s
affordable and delivers visible
change within the skin. Skinstitut
products use high-performance
active ingredients, advanced
delivery systems, and stable,
skin-syncing formulations which
are clean, cruelty-free, and vegan,
and don’t use unnecessary filler
ingredients or excessive packaging.
DR ROEBUCK’S
Aussie-made Dr Roebuck’s is taking
the world by storm with its clean,
pared-down approach to skincare.
The products contain only pure
botanicals and skin-safe ingredients
that have been ethically and
sustainably sourced. No fillers, no
nasties, no cruelty, no worries!
TRY TRY TRY
We Are Feel Good Inc. After Sun
Cooling Lotion, $19.95
Skinstitut Expert Refine AHA
Glycolic Toner, $59
Dr Roebuck’s Byron 2-in-1 Mask +
Scrub, $40
www.cosbeauty.com.au 77
BEAUTY
SUNESCAPES
Born in Bondi, Sunescape is an
award-winning Australian-made and
owned sunless tanning range that
delivers natural-looking colour with a
delicious tropical scent. Formulated
without harmful ingredients,
Sunescape’s products use certified
natural DHA and are fortified with
vitamins, antioxidants and plant
oils that nourish the skin, and
anti-ageing, hydrating and firming
ingredients that leave skin smooth
and replenished. All Sunescape
products are free from parabens,
petrochemicals and formaldehyde,
are proudly vegan and cruelty free.
We love it because it gives skin a
gorgeous colour, without dryness,
streaking, patchiness or the dreaded
orange undertone.
TRY
Sunescape Instant Self-Tan Mousse
250ml, $44.95; Hydrating Body
Butter, $29.95
EWE CARE
Ewe Care is Australia’s first sheep
milk natural skincare range that
combines the benefits of sheep milk
with uniquely Tasmanian ingredients.
A high natural fat content makes
sheep milk a wonderfully nourishing
moisturiser that not only helps
reduce wrinkles and fine lines but
also provides essential antioxidants
via vitamins like A, C, D and E, as
well as AHA. Its anti-inflammatory
and anti-microbial properties
also help to reduce redness and
breakouts and make it ideal for use
on sensitive skin. Every aspect of
Ewe Care’s packaging – from its
cream sachets, to the box they arrive
in – is compostable.
TRY
Ewe Day Cream 60ml + Raku
Ceramic Vessel, $165; Night Cream
60ml + Raku Ceramic Vessel, $180
ULTRADERM
Ultraderm is an Australian
cosmeceutical skincare company
founded in 2009 which uses
medical-grade ingredients to give
proven results for targeted skin
problems. The range – for both
at-home and in-clinic care – offers
a complete skincare protocol
suitable for conditions like
rosacea, acne, age prevention and
correction, pigmentation, stretch
marks and scarring.
TRY
Ultraderm Daily Protector Tinted
Base + Moisturiser SPF 30, $62
AESTHETICS RX
Aesthetics Rx is an Australian
cosmeceutical range of advanced
formulations using skin-correcting
anti-ageing ingredients based
on plant cell culture and biotechnology.
Their complex
blends of high-dose actives are
Australian made, vegan, cruelty
and paraben-free.
TRY
Aesthetics Rx B Serum, $109
QED SKINCARE
QED, founded by an Aussie
pharmacist, was specifically
formulated to target the needs
of sensitive skin, be it eczema,
psoriasis or acne-prone. Each and
every product developed has been
dermatologically tested on humans,
trialled and then re-tested, and is
fully backed by science – no fluff,
just a simple, scientific approach
to skincare. At its core, natural
ingredients are married with nontoxic
alternatives to create safe,
high-performance products free of
parabens, mineral oils, sulphates
and formaldehyde. Plus, it’s 100%
Australian designed, formulated
and made.
TRY
QED Skincare The Body Cream
250g, $39; Balancing Facial Mist,
Neroli + Bergamot 125ml, $32
www.cosbeauty.com.au 79
BEAUTY
JURLIQUE
A true Aussie success story, Jurlique
was founded in 1985, and has been
a global leader in natural skincare
ever since. Jurlique offers natural
skincare and beauty products that
are powered by botanicals grown
for decades on their organic farm
in South Australia’s Adelaide
Hills using a unique Bio-Intrinsic
extraction method. All botanicals are
hand planted and hand picked and
are free from synthetic pesticides
and fertilisers. By combining these
potent natural ingredients with
advanced skincare science, Jurlique
has grown to be a powerhouse in
Australia and around the world.
TRY
Jurlique Nutri-Define Supreme Eye
Contour Balm 15ml, $105; Rose
Hand Cream 125ml, $62
LUCAS’ PAWPAW
OINTMENT
Ah, this Australian staple with its
distinctive red packaging is the
OG multi-tasking beauty product!
Made in Australia from pure
papaws, the powerhouse ointment
has antibacterial and antimicrobial
properties – and has an infinite
amount of beauty uses, including lip
balm, dry skin and split end remedy,
relief from skin irritation or eczema,
cuticle/nail moisturiser, and even
as a skin highlighter! The company
still operates in Brisbane where the
ointment continues to be produced.
You might be amazed to know that
the formula for the famous ointment
is still the same proven remedy
today as when it was created more
than 100 years ago.
DR NAOMI SKIN
You may know cosmetic physician
Dr Naomi McCullum as an Instagram
sensation with a wicked penchant
for a good meme, and now she has
her very own skincare range that
is quickly reaching cult status. The
clever, hard-working range is science
based, vegan and cruelty-free using
high tech ingredients from both
nature and the lab. It’s a complete
skincare program – from cleansers
and corrective serums to cutting
edge beauty tools and devices –
that will have you on your way to
selfie-ready skin around the clock.
TRY
Dr Naomi Skin Catfish 10ml, $89
TRY
Lucas’ Papaw Ointment 75g, $14.75
80 www.cosbeauty.com.au
&
Radiate
beauty
confidence
Using the latest technologies, our team of experts
is committed to help you achieve natural-looking
results in a relaxed and friendly setting.
Come in and experience the Skin Renu difference.
Our comprehensive treatment menu includes:
world-class wrinkle reduction and
lip enhancement
laser skin rejuvenation
CoolSculpting non-surgical fat reduction
Thermage non-surgical face lifting
medical peels
clinic-only premium skincare
Call us to book a complimentary consultation
02 9555 9506
www.skinrenu.com.au
16B Beattie St, Balmain, Sydney
SKIN
Cool, calm
and collected
IS YOUR SKIN SENDING OUT AN SOS? WE HAVE
THE PRODUCTS TO HELP YOU SHIELD AND REPAIR
YOUR SKIN FROM THE SINS OF SUMMER.
W
hile most of us crave
the summer sun, UV
exposure can leave your
skin dry, dehydrated and damaged.
With each Australian summer, in one
of the harshest climates on Earth,
skin damage accumulates, with every
bit of sun exposure contributing to
the way your face ages.
Over time, your skin loses its
elasticity. It can develop unsightly
brown spots, and previously
hidden blood vessels can become
visible to the naked eye. Lines and
wrinkles emerge as your formerly
vibrant complexion starts to appear
dehydrated and dull.
It’s been said 80 percent of facial
ageing is caused by the sun, so
we need to prevent and repair. Of
course, sunscreen is numero uno
in any skincare regimen, but active
ingredients that work on a cellular
level to help undo sun damage and
protect against further premature
ageing. Look for antioxidants
like Vitamins A, C, E and B3
(niacinamide) and hyaluronic acid.
Vitamin A (retinol), in particular, is
a non-negotiable, as far we we’re
concerned. It has been proven
to soften lines, rejuvenate skin
and stimulate skin cells to make
healthy collagen and boost natural
moisturising factors.
Hyaluronic acid (HA) is also an
essential weapon in the fight against
ageing, dry skin. It is a natural
component of the skin that seals
in moisture and helps keep skin
hydrated and plump – it attracts
up to 1,000 times its own weight in
water. As skin is damaged by the sun,
HA decreases and your skin loses the
ability to retain water. Concentrated
HA helps restore this lost volume.
Remember, what you use on
your skin on a daily basis will pay
dividends further down the track.
Quality skincare is one of the best
investments you can make to ageproof
your skin in the long run.
82 www.cosbeauty.com.au
www.cosbeauty.com.au 83
1.
the basics
2.
3.
SKIN
5.
6.
4.
7.
8.
9.
11. 12.
10.
13.
14. 15.
1. Go Bare Facial Cleansing Brush, $89, 2. Dr Naomi
Skin Clean Freak, $149, 3. Arbonne Bio-Hydria Gel
Cleanser, $35, 4. Priori R-Spinasome The Ultimate
Night Crème 50ml, $300, 5. Sisley Phyto-Blanc Le
Soin Brightening Protective Moisturiser 40ml, $420,
6. mesoestetic energy C Intensive Cream 50ml,
$159, 7. Enbacci microdermabrasion exfoliating
scrub with eco-friendly alumina beads, $45, 8. Dr
Naomi Skin Milk It 120ml, $59, 9. Dr Naomi Skin
Walk Of Shine 120ml, $59, 10. Hydropeptide Power
Luxe Hydra-Rich Infusion Cream $215, 11. Jurlique
Nourishing Cleansing Oil 200ml, $44, 12. Jurlique
Revitalising Cleansing Gel 200ml, $44, 13. Priori
R-Spinasome The Ultimate Day Crème 50ml, $300,
14. IT Cosmetics Confidence In A Cream 60ml, $75,
15. Kiehl’s Ultra Facial Cream 50ml, $51
essential
protection
1. Skin MTX 3 in 1 Matt
Tinted Protector 30ml, $70,
2. Aspect Sun Physical Sun
Protection SPF 50+ Sunscreen
Cream 75g, $59, 3. asap
SPF50+ hydrating defence
100ml, $75, 4. mesoestetic
mesoprotech sun stick, $49.80,
5. Avéne Aqua Fluid SPF50+
40ml, $27.99, 6. O Cosmedics
Mineral Pro SPF 30+, $49
4.
5.
1.
2.
3.
6.
www.cosbeauty.com.au 85
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
7.
8.
SKIN
1.
anti-ageing
and
ightening ightening
1. Arbonne Rescue & Renew Detox Gelée, $80, 2. Cemoy Hydra Ampoule Face Mask, $29.95, 3. BOOST
LAB Vitamin C Brightening Serum, $29.95, 4. BOOST LAB 2D Hyaluronic Hydro Boost, $29.95, 5. Sisley
Botanical D-Tox 30ml, $300, 6. Arbonne Intelligence Nourishing Facial Oil, $110, 7. asap super B complex
30ml, $105, 8. asap super C complex 30ml, $105, 9. Dr Naomi Skin LED It Glow at-home light therapy
mask, $595, 10. Aspect Super PD Complex 30ml, $135, 11. Image Skincare Illuma Intense Brightening
Serum, $92.50, 12. Skin MTX Alpha Optimal Brightener 30ml, $112, 13. QED Skincare Wrinkle Rewind
Repair Serum 30ml, $92, 14. Ella Baché Sensibeautics Intensive Recovery Serum, $111, 15. No7 Radiance+
15% Vitamin C Serum, $34.99, 16. Biologi Bqk Radiance Serum Duo, $138, 17. Dr. LeWinn’s Intensive
Action Caviar Eye Serum 15ml, $79.95, 18. Kiehl’s Calendula Serum-Infused Water Cream 50ml, $69, 19.
No7 HydraLuminous Water Concentrate 30ml, $29.99, 20. Medik8 Oxy-R Peptides 2 x 10ml, $124, 21.
Sisley Velvet Sleeping Mask 60ml, $170, 22. QED Skincare Wrinkle Rewind Face Cream, $66, 23. Santa
Maria Novella Vitamin F Cream 50ml, $137, 24. asap Liquid Platinum 130ml, $65, 25. Feniu Tongan
Coconut Oil, $79, 26. Image Skincare Vital C Hydrating Waterburst, $83, 27. O Cosmedics O-Biome
Hydrating & Setting Spray, $55, 28. Sisley Hydra-Flash 60ml, $260, 29. Susanne Kaufmann Hyaluron Serum
Moisturising, $223, 30. Susanne Kaufmann Nutrient Concentrate Skin Smoothing Serum, $216,
31. Minenssey Australian Clay Mask Revival Set, $79
23.
86 www.cosbeauty.com.au
9.
10. 11.
12.
15.
13. 14.
16.
17.
18.
19.
20.
21.
22.
29.
30.
24.
25.
26.
27.
28.
31.
www.cosbeauty.com.au 87
SKIN
specialty
products f f
pigmentation
1.
2.
3.
1. Sisleÿa L’Integral Anti-Age Radiance
Anti-Dark Spot Serum 30ml, $630, 2.
CALECIM Professional Professional
Pigment Solution, $269, 3. mesoestetic
mesoprotech melan 130 pigment control
50ml, $79.80
post-sun relief
1.
2.
3.
4.
1. Pure Fiji Aftersun Soothing Gel, $29.95,
2. Santa Maria Novella Aloe Gel For
Face & Body 250ml, $60, 3. Santa Maria
Novella After Sun Cream 150ml, $55, 4.
Davines SU Aftersun, $49.95, 5. Arbonne
SuperCalm Soothing Hydrator, $65
hydrating
body products
5.
1. Medik8 Smooth Body Exfoliating Kit: includes Smooth Body
Scrub, Smooth Body Mitt and Smooth Body Lotion, $99, 2.
SkinMTX Mineral Rich Body Moisturizer 100ml, $46, 3. Sisley
Le Sculpteur 200ml, $290, 4. Ciaté London Dewy Stix Body
Bronzing, Transparent, $37, 5. Kiehl’s Crème de Corps 125ml $36,
6. Jurlique Exclusive Edition Rose Body Oil 200ml, $88, 7. PMD
Clean Body in Berry, $239
4.
1.
3.
6.
2.
5.
7.
www.cosbeauty.com.au 89
FEATURE
Beauty
&
beyond
MEET THE LADY BOSSES BEHIND TWO AUSTRALIAN SUCCESS STORIES:
COLOUR COSMETICS COLLECTION, VELVET CONCEPTS, AND SERIOUS
SKINCARE LINE, THE DERMAL DIARY. WORDS BY CLEO GLYDE.
CLEO GLYDE
The beauty industry –
encompassing skincare,
cosmetics, hair care, fragrances
and personal care – is undoubtedly a
huge part of our lives. But only very
few take the giant leap of creating their
own brand and manufacturing new
products for other women and men to
benefit from and enjoy. We chat with
Cassandra Nichterlein from Velvet
Concepts and Isabella Loneragan
from The Dermal Diary about their
entrepreneurial journeys.
Cassandra
Nichterlein
FOUNDER, VELVET CONCEPTS
You have been in beauty all your working life. How
did you start out?
When I was 21, I got a job at a really cool, trendy PR
agency. I was very lucky to be looking after great clients
such as Aveda and Becca Cosmetics, learning so much
at a young age and meeting the amazing creators
of these prestigious companies. I fell in love with the
industry straight away.
How did you take the next step of founding your
own Beauty PR agency and becoming the boss?
After working for other agencies for a decade, I
developed chronic fatigue and burnout from running
around too much and surviving on 10 coffees a day.
I decided I need to run my own schedule. I was also
inspired by the really great international brands that
weren’t available here locally at the time, so I decided
to import them and do all the marketing. I started
Style Patisserie with some really special brands, such as
Butter London nail polish, and they blew up and sold
well from the start.
Your favourite international brands became your
clients. When did you decide to join in and become
a brand creator yourself?
I started my own line, Velvet Concepts, when it became
apparent that big conglomerates were snapping up so
many great new brands. I love exciting, up-and-coming
companies with passionate founders, great backstories
and a point of difference. I had developed a great
connection with local Australian retailers who knew
how to love and nurture these little brands and
grow them.
After a decade running my own PR firm, I saw global
companies gobble up these small, cool brands then
dial down what made them so special in the first
place. They would also remove them from boutique,
independent beauty stores to sell them exclusively
through massive commercial outlets instead, which was
heartbreaking for everyone.
Seeing as boutique retailers were getting fewer and
fewer options of stylish, beautiful products that aren’t
available in mass retailers, I thought up my experiment:
perhaps I could create something that their loyal
beauty fans would love?
Did you research what kind of products those
would be or just do what appealed the most?
Heart or head?
Both! I’ve always adored the glamour of colour and
cosmetics. I used to put YSL ads under protective
contact sheets on all my exercise books in Year 8. I
also knew that small retailers have a more intimate
knowledge of their customers and could give me
constant insider knowledge that I could listen to
and respond to their feedback quite quickly. Big
corporates, on the hand, can take years to make
a product.
Now the fun part. How did you design your Velvet
Concepts collection from scratch?
Right from the get-go, I wanted to make the line
super luxe and minimal, which is what I like to buy. As
a customer, I’m not into overwhelming options at a
beauty counter. I just want direction: “this is the best
foundation”, “this is the blackest eyeliner you asked
for”, etc. I don’t mind if there are a couple of choices,
but I don’t want 25. Also, as much as I love a green,
sparkly eyeliner, that’s not what I wear every day. My
mission was to make neutrals and staples; classic but
never boring. That was always my vision.
Velvet Concepts stands apart with its signature
lavender grey. What was it like to take the journey
from dream to packaged reality?
I was adamant that the packaging had to be a custom
colour. The majority of beauty packaging is black
and white, which I soon learned is cheaper because
www.cosbeauty.com.au 91
stock packaging is easier to come
by. I find all the really great brands
are associated with a distinctive
colour though. I’ve always loved the
combination of gold and grey. If I
had my way, everything in my
house and wardrobe would be
that colour combo!
FEATURE
What was the biggest challenge in
manufacturing?
Well, I knew that if I was going to
do this, I wanted to work with the
best possible people. And in the
beauty world, I believe Italians are
the best, full stop. However, I had to
learn to work on their schedule and
deal with the language and cultural
barriers. I was frustrated and did not
take it very well. Looking back on the
delays, I think, “Well, what else did
you expect?”
Manufacturing requires endless
patience, so you have to factor in a
lot of time to get it right. The path
is not linear, but up and down. You
will save yourself a lot of unnecessary
frustration if you understand that
that’s what you’re signing up for.
What qualities does an entrepreneur need to have
in the beauty game?
A thick skin. You can’t be afraid to keep pushing,
refining, sending samples back or going back to the
drawing board. Any entrepreneur will tell you that if
you want something done your way, you have to stick
with it. Entrepreneurship isn’t for everyone; you have
to be patient, dog-minded and tactful all at once.
Building a brand is really about building relationships,
which will have their ups and downs. It requires a longterm
view.
Did lockdown have a negative or positive effect?
Most of our product was already shipped over from
Italy, so it was quite good. Some things sell more than
others in lockdown – with masks, lip colour isn’t as much
a priority as eyes. We will see it all come back. Before
the pandemic a lot of our customers would ordinarily
just buy something, but when everyone had more time
they started asking more questions. We could dedicate
time to chat with customers so it gave us a lovely
dynamic; we had FaceTime chats to match foundations!
Velvet Concepts
Luxe Lip Gloss in
Berry and Créme
How important is human interaction in an
increasingly online world?
With makeup and cosmetics – any business really –
customers will trust you when you give personalised
service. People know that they are dealing with an
automated program when they add to cart and
they accept that, but personalisation optimises the
experience. People assume we will just have a bot,
so when they get a real person interaction they are
really chuffed.
Who is your customer?
Someone with a natural, pared-down aesthetic who
wants curated, luxurious products. Essentially I made
the products with the ingredients and texture that I
wanted to use.
Velvet Concepts Eye
Gems Eyeshadow Stick In
Rose Quartz and Topaz
How did you decide on your price point?
The reality is that product manufacture is like cooking:
the better the ingredients, the more it costs. There are
so many fun, cheaper products out there; there was no
need for any more of that. There are also really, really
expensive French designer products available. There
wasn’t anything that was really luxe and Australian. We
do have our own aesthetic and luxurious twist that is
unique to Australia. The idea was, can we export that?
That beautiful, pared down Aussie girl. We are no-fuss,
generally speaking, glamorous in our own way but not
uber put-together or perfect. There is a little bit of
undoneness about us, which I embrace.
Is it still exciting or just hard work?
I still get a thrill when orders come in. People
discover us through social media, beauty retailers and
independent shops. During lockdown, customers had
to go online to get access to more products.
Velvet Concepts Crème Chic Blush in Rosé
www.velvetconcepts.com
Giving birth to a new brand and three gorgeous
young children is no mean feat. Does working for
yourself make it work?
I had no kids when I started, but I was pregnant when I
ned o and made m fir amen. I rememer
thinking, this better bloody work because I am having
a baby!
I’m way more fussy about how I spend my time since
I had Alessia, Ezra and Raphael. When I was single,
I used to waste a lot of time doing silly things; I’m
eronall ar more eficen no.
I arrange certain days with a babysitter and pump all
my meetings into one block instead of running around
all over town, driving all over the place. I look back
and think, why didn’t I do this before?
www.cosbeauty.com.au 93
FEATURE
The Dermal Diary It’s All Here Day Cream
The Dermal Diary Purifying Cleanser
www.thedermaldiary.com
Isabella
Loneragan
FOUNDER, THE DERMAL DIARY
Did entrepreneurship come easy to you?
My drive has always been 50% be a business owner
and 50% be in the beauty industry. I started as a
facialist in 2007 in South Africa, running a traditional
beauty business, including nails, out of my spare
room. My business had one big plus: 180-degree
ocean views in Cape Town. Customers got to lie on a
treatment bed and look out to the ocean.
All businesses need a unique selling point. It’s
hard to open on a high street and be a regular
therapist; what pulls customers in is some kind of
wow factor. Whether you have your own product or a
location that can’t be beat, you need to differentiate
yourself somehow.
How did you switch from cosmetic grooming to
clinical expert?
I wanted something with more guts, a dermal
therapy role, so I studied and returned to Australia
in 2011. For four years I worked alongside incredible
dermatologists at a clinic, learning so much about
acne, rosacea, even mental health. I worked with amazing
products, such as Rationale, Aspect and Cosmedix, which
were great for specific concerns and were prescribed for
certain skin types and age groups.
The doctors tasked me with finding the best products,
so I researched the market and sourced a lot of different
options to treat all the different conditions I was seeing.
A lot of patients were on antibiotics for conditions like
acne. Repeat customers filling prescriptions would
confide that they didn’t like the side effects, did we
have other solutions? I recommended some products
that would help, but realised that there was a massive
hole in the market for people who prefer an alternative
to medication.
How did you go back out on your own?
My career came to a crossroads. I could go back to
medical school for 10 years and become a dermatologist,
or set up my own skin therapy business and help people
in the field straight away. I backed myself and decided to
wing it. I had a side hustle to pay the mortgage and off
I went.
I chose the name The Dermal Diary because I had
a blog – back in 2015 when blogging was massive –
answering lots of questions about skin conditions, finding
the right sunscreen or why skin goes red. The name still
worked. I started my clinic in a small space and saw 11
clients on my first day, which was incredible. Old clients
from the dermatology clinic had googled my name.
How did you expand from in-person treatment to
manufacturing?
Two years into opening my own clinic, I hired a business
coach who challenged me to research creating my own
product. It hit me: I was having to juggle ingredients
from five brands to get my results. I spent a couple of
months researching pharmacies that create formulas and
design packaging.
What boxes did your new products have to tick?
They had to be Australian made, have recyclable
packaging, and you needed to be able to see how much
product remained, so customers weren’t left in the lurch
one night when it ran out. My production size had to be
small to keep it fresh, and I wanted to design my own
logo. Luckily, I eventually found a company that could
do it all.
www.cosbeauty.com.au 95
FEATURE
What is The Dermal Diary routine you created?
I launched eight products initially: cleanser, toner,
three serums, and a couple of moisturisers.
Now I have about 25 products in total. As the
demand presented itself, I just developed more.
How much does feedback from The Dermal Diary
clinic influence the products?
It’s huge. People make the mistake of making a
product and hoping people will like it, whereas it
may not even sell. Dermal Diary products have been
developed after years of listening to hundreds of
clients share what they like, don’t like, want to pay
and the results that they are after. My experience with
real people shapes it; the clinic gave me all the case
studies I needed.
The clinic helped the product – does it work the
other way around?
Yes! I used to complain that I couldn’t find the
perfect product for my clinic treatments. Now I
have it. Having a skincare line also saved me during
lockdown because I could still serve my customers
around the country even though the clinic itself was
shut down. No one else has it, and my clients are
hooked on the results. After three years, we already
had the sales momentum to get us through the
worst of the pandemic. Unsurprisingly, some clinics
never reopened because they couldn’t survive two
lockdowns in two years.
day went from 7am to 9pm so that I could get where I
needed to go.
I now have two kids under two years old (a 4 monthold
and a 23 month-old), so I am behind the scenes a
lot more, taking maternity leave and paring down to
being in the clinic two days a fortnight. It’s a balancing
act and the simple fact is that when I pull away, for
example while breastfeeding, of course the business
will suffer. Wherever you put energy will thrive. The
Dermal Diary is built on my effort so I can never
completely pull my foot off the accelerator. There is
no such thing as annual leave or sick pay and I still
need to be present, training and motivating my staff to
maintain standards.
What is your product of the moment?
I created the Dream Mask because women love the
idea of masks, but don’t love taking them off. I found
a way to keep it simple. You can exfoliate, apply this
highly nourishing, probiotic mask, leave it on, then
sleep and dream in it – the lazy woman’s mask! It fits
the gap perfectly and is still one of our best-selling
crowd pleasers. CBM
Which is most crucial to entrepreneurial success:
the idea or the passion behind it?
You have to love what you do and really enjoy it –
then it doesn’t feel like you’re working. I believe
that you do well when it’s not only about the money.
Entrepreneurs are just not designed to work for other
people. I had so much drive and so many incredible
ideas but not everyone understood the vision and I
got frustrated. I don’t like being told what to do. As
the boss, once you make a decision and implement
it, it’s done.
What’s your boss like to work for?
Haha! I laugh when people tell me how lucky I am
to work for myself because it’s so flexible and I can
have time off. Yes, entrepreneurs can work when they
like, but ask them and they usually work all the time.
Initially when I was younger with incredible drive, my
www.cosbeauty.com.au 97
FEATURE
UNDER
THE
KNIFE
IS THE
AUSTRALIAN
COSMETIC
SURGERY
INDUSTRY
GETTING A
FACELIFT?
WE REPORT ON THE CURRENT ‘COSMETIC
SURGEON’ CRISIS IN AUSTRALIA AND
PROPOSED CHANGES TO THE INDUSTRY.
The recent and much
publicised joint investigation
between Four Corners, The
Age and Sydney Morning Herald
into some alarming practices at
a popular cosmetic surgery clinic
has put the Australian aesthetics
industry under close scrutiny and
prompted a renewed push for
increased regulation.
The debate is centred on the
use of the title ‘cosmetic surgeon’,
with health ministers calling for a
review of the industry and more
transparency for consumers.
The investigation reported
allegations of medical misconduct
by cosmetic surgeon Dr Daniel
Lanzer, including hygiene and safety
breaches, with multiple patients
saying botched surgeries left
them with pain or requiring further
medical treatment.
Shortly after the program aired in
October 2021, the Australian Health
Practitioner Regulation Agency
(AHPRA), the medical regulator,
launched an investigation into
Dr Lanzer. A statement on the
AHPRA website on October 30
said Dr Lanzer had agreed not to
practice medicine in Australia while
the investigation continued.
Since then, a senior associate at
Dr Lanzer’s clinic, Dr Daniel Aronov
(a cosmetic surgeon with more than
13 million TikTok followers) has
also been banned from performing
cosmetic surgery in Australia and
ordered to remove all procedurerelated
material on social media.
LANDMARK REVIEWS
BY HEALTH REGULATOR
AND STATE AND
FEDERAL GOVERNMENTS
CALL FOR OVERHAUL OF
COSMETICS INDUSTRY
AHPRA works with Australia’s
national boards to regulate
the country’s registered health
practitioners. One of its purposes is
to manage complaints and concerns
raised about health practitioners.
The regulator is currently
undergoing a major review of the
cosmetic surgery sector, its firstever
review into patient safety.
AHPRA’s review, led by the outgoing
Queensland Health Ombudsman
Andrew Brown, will examine the
advertising of cosmetic surgery,
the current codes of conduct and
protocols around how complaints
are handled.
AHPRA CEO Martin Fletcher said
the cosmetic industry had ‘worrying
features’ which made it riskier than
other areas of medicine.
FEDERAL HEALTH MINISTER GREG HUNT
HAS ASKED STATE HEALTH MINISTERS TO
MAKE NEW LAWS A PRIORITY.
www.cosbeauty.com.au 99
FEATURE
‘Among them, corporate business
models that are allegedly placing
profit over patient safety, procedures
being undertaken for no medical
need, limited factual information
for consumers, and the exponential
growth in social media that often
emphasises benefits and downplays
risks,’ he told the ABC.
‘Cosmetic practice has rapidly
grown as a multi-million dollar
entrepreneurial industry with
practices and marketing methods
that raise ethical dilemmas,’ he
added.
At the time of writing in mid-
December 2021, the federal and
state governments just launched
a landmark review aimed at
overhauling laws into who can call
themselves a cosmetic surgeon,
and increasing the penalties for
deceptive advertising and social
media abuses, according to the
Sydney Morning Herald.
Federal Health Minister Greg Hunt
has asked state health ministers to
make new laws a priority.
On December 12, the states and
Commonwealth released a 108-
page Regulation Impact Statement
(RIS) into the use of the title
‘surgeon’ and ‘cosmetic surgeon’. It
will be open for public consultation*
until April 1, 2022, with the public
invited to anonymously provide
feedback about their experiences
and submissions.
According to the statement,
an anonymous survey and direct
submissions would help devise
policy responses to reform the
cosmetic procedures industry.
The consulting document
canvasses a series of options,
including restricting the title
‘surgeon’ under National Law
and undertaking major public
information campaigns.
Other options include
strengthening the existing
framework through administrative
rather than legislative mechanisms
and increasing provider liability for
non-economic damages.
A fourth option is to maintain the
status quo, but this seems unlikely.
The consulting document
said ministers were ‘particularly’
concerned that the practice of
cosmetic surgery and widespread
use of the informal title ‘cosmetic
surgeon’ may be strongly and
disproportionately associated with
these risks and harm. It said there
was an information and power
asymmetry between patients and
practitioners, which was contributing
to the risk of consumer harm.
‘It can be difficult for the public
to obtain information from neutral
and informed sources, particularly
as most cosmetic surgery
consumers obtain information about
prospective procedures from the
practitioners that perform those
procedures and from social media,’
the report says.
‘This RIS is interested to discover
how widespread cosmetic surgery
resulting in significant harm and
complications [might] be, and
whether medical practitioners’
qualifications are contributing to
potential harm.’
It said advertising and marketing
material must comply with a series
of laws. Breaches of the law for
advertising offences can incur
THE CONSULTING DOCUMENT CANVASSES A SERIES
OF OPTIONS, INCLUDING RESTRICTING THE TITLE
‘SURGEON’ UNDER NATIONAL LAW AND UNDERTAKING
MAJOR PUBLIC INFORMATION CAMPAIGNS.
WHO CAN BE A
COSMETIC SURGEON?
WHO CAN BE A
PLASTIC SURGEON?
Often ‘plastic surgeon’ and ‘cosmetic
surgeon’ are used interchangeably,
but by law only practitioners who have
completed an additional 8-12 years of
specialist plastic surgical training, beyond
their medical degree, can call themselves
plastic surgeons.
financial penalties of $5,000 for each
advertising offence for an individual
and $10,000 for a body corporate.
Public consultation for the review
began on 21 December, 2021 and
closes on 1 April, 2022. A report is
expected around the middle of the
year. CBM
* If you would like to participate in
the survery, visit https://engage.vic.
gov.au/medical-practitioners-usetitle-surgeon-under-national-law
As it stands, anyone with a basic medical
degree is able to call themselves a
‘cosmetic surgeon’. This means the
‘cosmetic surgeon’ title can cover a wide
spectrum of doctors, from those with no
formal surgical training to those who are
highly skilled with decades of experience.
This unusual ‘loophole’ can be exploited
because there is no formal pathway
for any doctor to specifically train in
cosmetic procedures – and it is this
‘loophole’ that health ministers are
currently consulting on.
Indeed, the title of ‘cosmetic surgeon’,
and who can use it, is at the forefront of
the federal and states review. This is a
space we will be watching closely.
www.cosbeauty.com.au 101
COSMETIC ENHANCEMENT
THE MOST
POPULAR
ANTI-AGEING
TREATMENT
OF ALL TIME
AS BOTOX COSMETIC
CELEBRATES ITS 20TH
BIRTHDAY THIS YEAR IN THE
UNITED STATES, WE TAKE
A TRIP DOWN MEMORY
LANE WITH THE FOUNDERS
OF THIS REVOLUTIONARY
TREATMENT.
Thought to be the most
powerful toxin known to
man and capable of causing
paralysis, millions of people
across the world have botulinum
toxin type A injections to address the
ageing effects of furrows, frowns and
wrinkles. What was once the domain
of the A-listers is now very much
entrenched in the ‘every woman’
modern-day beauty arsenal and has
become a worldwide phenomenon.
THE BIRTH OF BOTOX
Although the cosmetic effect of
botulinum toxin on wrinkles was
first documented by a plastic
surgeon from Sacramento, it wasn’t
until Canadian husband and wife
ophthalmologist and dermatologist
physicians Jean and Alastair
Carruthers published their research
in 1992 that ‘Botox’ for cosmetic
use was officially born. In 2002, it
was officially approved in the US
as a treatment for frown lines
in adults. (Australia had already
introduced Botox for cosmetic use
back in 1999.)
The birth of Botox to treat wrinkles
was something of an accident. As an
ophthalmologist, Jean Carruthers
had been using botulinum toxin
type A to treat blepharospasm – an
uncontrolled muscle spasm that
occurs in the eye.
‘One of Jean’s patients
complained that she hadn’t been
treated in this area,’ Dr Alastair
Carruthers told us during an
exclusive interview in San Diego
some years back, pointing to the
region between his eyes where
you’d imagine frown lines may
exist had he not discovered Botox’s
‘other’ use.
“I didn’t think you were spasming
there,” my wife replied, to which the
patient explained, “But every time
you treat me there I get this overly
untroubled, unworried look and
my family tells me I look so much
better!”’ he recalls.
www.cosbeauty.com.au 103
COSMETIC ENHANCEMENT
As a dermatologist, Alastair
Carruthers knew first-hand the
significance of this flyaway comment.
In the late 1980s, his cosmetic
toolbox was sadly lacking any
weapon capable of improving
the appearance of frown lines.
‘We didn’t have anything,’ he
emphasises. ‘Collagen was about it.’
It didn’t take long for the
husband and wife team to begin
their exploration into the cosmetic
potential of botulinum toxin type
A. ‘The very next day, Jean treated
our receptionist, Cathy,’ says Dr
Carruthers. ‘Cathy had witnessed
Jean inject hundreds of clients
so she knew it was a reasonable
procedure. A few days later, I saw
her and remember saying, “Wow”,
because I hadn’t seen anything like it
before,’ he recalls.
With his cosmetic practice side by
side with his wife’s ophthalmology
clinic, from that point on, Alastair
Carruthers would send his own
patients next door for treatment, any
time he met someone who wanted
to improve the appearance of their
forehead furrows.
Of course, without clinical
evidence the use of botulinum toxin
would not be the phenomenon it is
today. ‘It took time, but we gradually
accumulated a number of people
and, in March 1991, we were able to
present our data,’ he says.
The results were impressive, but
the timing poor. In 1991, the US FDA
(Food and Drug Administration) was
in the midst of threatening jail-time
for the illegal promotion of the
off-label use of Retin-A. ‘And then
we come along and tell the FDA
we want to inject the most deadly
material known to humanity in order
to treat wrinkles,’ Dr Carruthers says.
‘Everyone said we were crazy.’
CAN BOTOX REALLY
MAKE US HAPPIER?
There is mounting evidence to suggest that Botox
injections in the forehead to stop us frowning can
not only make us look happier but feel it, too.
We smile just because we’re happy and frown
when we’re angry or sad. Or do we? Evidence is
mounting to suggest we can “trick” our brains into
a more positive outlook or out of a negative one by
consciously controlling our facial expressions. While
it’s sometimes hard to control our emotions, it’s
much easier to control our muscles.
Scientists have long believed that our emotions
are reinforced – perhaps even driven – by their
corresponding facial expressions, known in
psychology as the facial feedback hypothesis, ie if
we force a smile when we’re feeling down, we will
actually start to feel happier. The theory is that if we
cannot physically frown, the brain feels there may be
less to frown about – the psychological equivalent of
the old song “when you’re smiling, the whole world
smiles with you”.
A spate of studies on Botox recipients have given
further weight to the argument that the brain can
be “tricked” into a better mood. Psychologists at
the University of Cardiff in Wales found that people
whose ability to frown is compromised by musclerelaxant
injections such as Botox are happier, on
average, than people who can frown.
The researchers administered an anxiety and
depression questionnaire to 25 women, half of
whom had received Botox. The Botox recipients
reported feeling happier and less anxious in general.
Significantly, they did not report feeling any more
attractive, which suggests that the emotional effects
were not driven by a psychological boost that could
come from the treatment’s cosmetic nature.
‘It would appear that the way we feel emotions
isn’t just restricted to our brain – there are parts of
our bodies that help and reinforce the feelings we’re
having,’ says Michael Lewis, a co-author of the study.
‘It’s like a feedback loop.’
Cosmetic surgeons the world
over started to use it – off-label
– to improve the appearance of
frown lines, but it wasn’t until 2002,
after formal clinical trials, that the
FDA approved Botox Cosmetic to
temporarily improve the appearance
of moderate to severe frown lines
between the eyebrows.
‘It took a while, but with the
support of some key dermatologists,
it was as if all of a sudden there was
a critical mass and people started to
listen to us,’ Dr Carruthers recalls.
Botox Cosmetic, as we know, went
on to become a major blockbuster,
estimated to bring in US$2 billion in
annual sales for Allergan.
Given that Botox can be
considered one of the most
successful symbioses in late-20thcentury
cosmetic medicine, it’s
understandable to assume that Jean
and Alastair Carruthers went on to
become billionaires.
As two people upholding an
ethical position, however, they
refused to cash in. Although they
eventually went on to become
consultants with Allergan, the
multi-billion dollar company that
would launch Botox Cosmetic, and
which already owned the formula for
medical use, they never patented
their discovery.
‘We took advice from a lawyer in
Toronto who was supposed to be an
expert and said that he did not think
this was a patentable idea. We have
since learned that it was indeed,’ Dr
Carruthers told a Canadian magazine
back in 2010. ‘Are there any regrets?
I guess so, but not major.’
WHAT EXACTLY IS
BOTULINUM TOXIN
AND WHAT CAN IT
TREAT?
Botulinum toxin is a protein
produced by the bacterium
Clostridium botulinum. It is a muscle
relaxant that is commonly used
for cosmetic facial enhancement,
particularly to treat crow’s feet
around the eyes, the frown lines
between the eyebrows (glabellar
lines) and the worry lines across the
forehead. The marionette or sad
lines, from the corner of the mouth
to the chin, can be effectively treated
with botulinum toxin. It can also be
used to produce the effect of a brow
lift by relaxing the muscles that drag
down the brow.
In cosmetic procedures, botulinum
toxin works by blocking nerve
stimulation to wrinkle-causing
muscles, which prevents the muscle
from contracting and significantly
reduces wrinkles and fine lines.
www.cosbeauty.com.au 105
BOTOX: PAST, PRESENT
& POSSIBLE USES
COSMETIC ENHANCEMENT
Approved medical and cosmetic uses are shown in bold. Allergan is currently investigating or
has a patent pending on all other indications shown.
Chronic headaches
EYELID TWITCHING
Inner ear disorders
Neck pain
Thyroid disorder
FROWN LINES
CROSSED EYES
NECK MUSCLE
CONTRACTIONS
SEVERE UNDERARM SWEATING
Stretch mark reduction
Cranial nerve disorders
Facial spasms
Downturned mouth
Teeth grinding
Facilitating dental procedures
Vocal chord disorder
Oesophageal problems
(difficulty swallowing)
Relaxing blood vessels in heart disease
Cardiac muscle disorder
Ulcers and acid reflux disease
Reduced appetite
Pancreas disorders
Back pain
Intra-spinal pain
Overactive bladder
Essential tremor
(especially arms)
Buttock deformity
Benign enlarged prostate
Testicular pain
Anal fissure
JUVENILE CEREBRAL PALSY
Involuntary twitching
Bone tumour pain
Skeletal muscle pain
POST-STROKE LIMB SPASTICITY
Sources: Food and Drug Administration; Allergan; New York Times
NOT JUST A
PRETTY FACE
While many people think of botulinum
toxin as a modern-day treatment for
wrinkles, it has actually been used since
the 1960s to treat a range of medical
conditions. But its discovery actually
extends much further back in time.
In the 19th century, German
physician Justinus Christian Kerner first
recognised the potential therapeutic
uses of botulinum toxin. An 1815
outbreak of botulism (a dangerous
paralytic illness caused by the toxin
botulin) in southern Germany among
people who had eaten uncooked blood
sausage led Kerner to publish a precise
description of botulism’s symptoms
– from blurred vision to progressive
muscle weakness, culminating in
respiratory failure. He postulated
that minute quantities of the diseaseproducing
substance might be able to
treat disorders of the nervous system.
In the 1970s, Dr Alan Scott of
the Smith-Kettlewell Eye Institute
demonstrated that botulinum toxin
was a powerful therapeutic agent that
could be used to treat ophthalmic
disorders associated with muscle
over-activity such as lazy eye or eyelid
spasms (blepharospasms). Since then,
it has been used to treat a variety of
involuntary muscle contractions or
disorders such as neck spasms (cervical
dystonia), to reduce symptoms of
an overactive bladder, relieve teeth
clenching and grinding, and even
as a migraine and tension headache
preventative.
Botulinum toxin is used in much
higher doses to treat children two years
of age or older suffering from cerebral
palsy to help them walk.
It can also be injected into the skin
to block the action of the nerves that
control sweat glands, and in this way
treat excessive localised sweating
(hyperhidrosis), especially severe
underarm sweating.
‘TOX IN OZ:
BOTOX,
DYSPORT &
XEOMIN
Today, botulinum toxin is available for cosmetic
use in Australia under the brand names Botox,
Dysport and Xeomin, and all are TGA approved for
their ability to relax facial muscles and improve the
appearance of furrows between the eyes.
BE CONFIDENT IN WHO’S
INJECTING YOUR FACE
With cosmetic injections becoming as ubiquitous as
facials and haircuts, it’s incredibly important – from
both a safety and an aesthetic perspective – that
your injector is accredited and experienced.
Cosmetic injections are medical procedures that
require a physical examination and history-taking
for a complete consultation. Like any medical
procedure, they also carry an element of risk.
In the rare event of serious complications arising,
you want to be assured you are in the best possible
hands to remedy the situation. Always be sure to
check the qualifications of your injector to ensure
you are being treated by a qualified and trained
practitioner.
Be aware that cheapest is not always best;
don’t make your decision on price alone. After
all, it’s your face, and your safety, we’re talking
about. CBM
www.cosbeauty.com.au 107
WELLNESS
EVERYTHING
YOU THOUGHT
YOU KNEW
ABOUT
METABOLISM
MAY BE
WRONG
RECENT RESEARCH HAS SHAKEN
WIDELY HELD WEIGHT LOSS
THEORIES TO THE CORE. AS IT
TURNS OUT, YOU WON’T BE
ABLE TO BLAME A SLOW
METABOLISM FOR YOUR
WEIGHT GAIN ANYMORE.
WHILE SEVERAL FACTORS COULD EXPLAIN THE
THICKENING WAISTLINES THAT OFTEN EMERGE DURING
OUR PRIME WORKING YEARS, THE FINDINGS SUGGEST THAT
A CHANGING METABOLISM ISN’T ONE OF THEM.
Remember those heady days of
youth when it seemed we could
eat anything we want and not
gain weight? And now even so much
as a glance at a Tim Tam will send the
scales in the wrong direction? Our
metabolism has taken the brunt of
the blame for decades, but a landmark
2021 study * published in the journal
Science says metabolism in adulthood
does not slow as commonly believed.
‘There are lots of physiological
changes that come with growing up
and getting older,’ says study co-author
Herman Pontzer, associate professor
of evolutionary anthropology at
Duke University. ‘Think puberty,
menopause, other phases of life.
What’s weird is that the timing of our
“metabolic life stages” doesn’t seem to
match those typical milestones.’
Total daily energy expenditure
reflects daily energy needs and is a
critical variable in human health and
physiology, but its trajectory over the
life course is poorly studied. Pontzer
and an international team of scientists
analysed the average calories burned
(daily energy expenditure) by more
than 6,600 people ranging from one
week old to age 95 across 29 countries
as they went about their daily lives.
SMASHING
4
THE
STAGES OF
METABOLISM
1.
From one week old up until age 1,
your metabolism is at its highest
level, accelerating until it is 50%
above the adult rate.
2.
From age 1 to 20, metabolism slows
down gradually at a rate of around
3% per year.
3.
Between ages 20 to 60, your
metabolism remains relatively stable.
4.
From age 60 onwards, it slows
down by about 0.7% a year.
www.cosbeauty.com.au 107
THE DATA SUGGEST THAT OUR
METABOLISMS DON’T REALLY START TO
DECLINE AGAIN UNTIL AFTER AGE 60.
WELLNESS
METABOLISM
MYTHS
Analysing energy expenditures across
the entire lifespan revealed some
surprises. Some people think of their
teens and 20s as the age when their
calorie-burning potential hits its peak.
But the researchers found that infants
had the highest metabolic rates of all; a
one-year-old burns calories 50% faster
for their body size than an adult.
After this initial surge in infancy,
the data show that metabolism slows
by about 3% each year until we reach
our 20s, when it levels off into a
new normal.
Despite the teen years being a time
of growth spurts, the researchers didn’t
see any uptick in daily calorie needs in
adolescence after they took body size
into account. ‘We really thought puberty
would be different and it’s not,’
Pontzer says.
Midlife was another surprise. We’ve
been told that it’s all downhill after
30 when it comes to our weight. But
while several factors could explain
the thickening waistlines that often
emerge during our prime working years,
the findings suggest that a changing
metabolism isn’t one of them.
In fact, the researchers discovered
that energy expenditures during these
middle decades – our 20s, 30s, 40s and
50s -- were the most stable. Even during
pregnancy, a woman’s calorie needs were
no more or less than expected given her
added bulk as the baby grows.
WHAT IS
METABOLISM?
Metabolism is the process by which
your body converts what you eat
and drink into energy. During this
complex process, calories in food and
beverages are combined with oxygen
to release the energy your body needs
to function.
Even at rest, your body needs
energy for all its ‘hidden’ functions
to keep you alive and your organs
functioning normally, such as breathing,
circulating blood, adjusting hormone
levels, growing and repairing cells, and
digesting food.
The minimum amount of energy
your body requires to perform these
chemical processes is called the basal
metabolic rate (BMR).
Your individual basal metabolic rate,
or metabolism, is determined by your
body size and composition, sex and
muscle composition. In addition to your
BMR, thermogenesis (food processing)
and physical activity determine how
many calories your body expends, or
burns, each day.
People who struggle to lose weight
often blame a slow metabolism. But
there’s actually little evidence to
support this claim.
Conversely, research shows that
overweight people have faster
metabolisms than thinner people.
Larger bodies require more energy
to carry out basic bodily functions.
More often than not, the reason you’re
putting on weight is not because of a
slow metabolism; it’s because you’re
eating and drinking more calories than
you’re burning.
WHY 60
IS THE
NEW 30
The data collected in the study suggest
that our metabolisms don’t really start
to decline again until after age 60. The
slowdown is gradual, only 0.7% a year.
But a person in their 90s needs 26%
fewer calories each day than someone
in midlife.
The findings suggest that other factors
lie behind the so-called ‘middle-age
spread. Lost muscle mass as we get older
may be partly to blame, the researchers
say, since muscle burns more calories
than fat. But it’s not the whole picture.
‘It’s because [our] cells are slowing
down,’ Pontzer says.
The patterns held even when differing
activity levels were taken into account.
For a long time, what drives shifts in
energy expenditure has been difficult to
parse because ageing goes hand in hand
with so many other changes, Pontzer
says. But the research lends support to
the idea that it’s more than age-related
changes in lifestyle or body composition.
‘All of this points to the conclusion
that tissue metabolism, the work that
the cells are doing, is changing over the
course of the lifespan in ways we haven’t
fully appreciated before,’ he says. ‘You
really need a big data set like this to get
at those questions.’
‘These changes shed light on human
development and ageing and should
help shape nutrition and health
strategies across the life span,’ the
authors conclude. CBM
Source: Today.Duke.edu
*
Daily Energy Expenditure Through the Human
Life Course,’ Herman Pontzer, Yosuke Yamada,
Hiroyuki Sagayama, et al. Science, Aug. 12,
2021. DOI: 10.1126/science.abe5017
www.cosbeauty.com.au 109
BEAUTY
E d’s
fa
ves
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
7.
8.
9.
10.
1. Lük Beautifood Lip + Body Love Collection, Pretty Pink Set, $89, 2. Jean Paul Gaultier Scandal Pour Homme Edt 100ml, $155,
3. Bottega Veneta Gold-plated ring, $830, 4. Trinny London Sheer Shimmer in Bunny, $40, 5. Trinny London Lash2Brow, $50, 6.
Christina Sikalias Beauty Luce Del Sole Eye Palette, $128, 7. Jean Paul Gaultier Le Belle EDT 100ml, $202, 8. Mavala Iconic Color’s
Collection + Silicium Nail Polish in Inverness, Detroit, Manaus, Muscat, Rangoon and Salamanca, $8.95 each, 9. Christina Sikalias
Beauty Luce Del Sole Lip Gloss, $36, 10. Gucci GG Crystal-Embellished Earrings, $640
www.cosbeauty.com.au 111
3.
1.
2.
BEAUTY
4.
5.
6.
1. Morphe Mickey & Friends Truth Be Bold Artistry Palette, $50, 2. Morphe Mickey & Friends Truth Be Bold 6-Piece
Brush Set, $44, 3. Morphe Morphe X Sour Patch Kids Colorful Crew Beauty Sponge Set, $30, 4. Morphe Morphe X
Sour Patch Kids Candy Sweet Lip Scrub- Red Berry, $15, 5. Rimmel London Waterproof Wonder’proof Liners, 003
Precious Emerald, $15.95, 6. Loungeface Lash Mascara, $37
112
14.
13.
12.
7.
10.
8.
9.
11.
7. Sundae Shower Whipped Shower Foam Gift Pack: includes Pomegranate Fizz, Coconut Cream, Honey Honey and Cool
Mint, $68, 8. Recreation Beauty At Night We Dance EDP 50ml, $109, 9. evo water killer dry shampoo, $38, 10. Color
Wow Xtra Large Bombshell Volumizer, $58.85, 11. Cloud Nine Magical Quick Dry Potion 200ml, $45, 12. Cloud Nine The
Cordless Iron Pro, $595, 13. PMD Silversilk Headband, $5, 14. Versace La Medusa Small Handbag Lilac, $ 2,680
www.cosbeauty.com.au 113
BEAUTY
114
1.
2.
3.
5.
4.
7.
6.
8.
12.
11.
10.
9.
13.
1. Ciaté London Cheat Sheets Nail Wrap Kit, $21, 2. Skeyndor Fresh After Sun Emulsion 150ml, $44, 3. Cemoy
Timekeeper Eye Serum, $64.95, 4. QED Skincare The Hand Cream 250g, $72, 5. Dior Aqua Bottle With Shoulder Strap Off-
White Grained Calfskin And Dior Oblique Stainless Steel, $1,250, 6. Monat Makeup Vanishing Balm, $96, 7. Peter Thomas
Roth Full-Size Firm & Glow Icons 2-Piece Kit Includes, Firmx Peeling Gel 100ml and 24K Gold Pure Luxury Lift & Firm
Hydra-Gel Eye Patches 60 patches, $114, 8. Waterpik Water Flosser WF-10W010 Cordless Select, $79.99, 9. Grandiflora
Saskia 50ml, $195, 10. Ella Baché Retinol Renewal Eye Serum 15ml, $109, 11. Ella Baché Sunguard Great SPF 40, $49, 12.
Jurlique Restoring Shower Gel Lemon, Geranium & Clary Sage 300ml, $436, 13. Skeyndor Drops of D’Or 30ml, $69
www.cosbeauty.com.au 115
AestheticAdvisor is Australia’s
trusted online resource to
research procedures, find a skilled
practitioner, read real reviews and
have questions answered.
www.aestheticadvisor.com.au