British Travel Journal | Summer 2021
It has felt like a long time to be deprived of the richness and fulfilment travel brings - exploring new places, spending a night at your favourite hotel, unwinding in a spa, or enjoying an afternoon tea in a beautiful garden. While we might have forgotten how good this all feels, our desire to travel has not been lost. This issue is all about health, wellness and meaningful travel – ‘slow travel’ (as it has recently been dubbed). So, if you’re looking for an unforgettable trip, to be enjoyed at your own pace, then we hope you will find plenty of inspiration within our summer features. Our top ten life-affirming Health Breaks, are guaranteed to reboot the body and mind, while our Best Tall Ship and Sailing Adventures, offer the ultimate active escapism. The brand-new collection curated National Trust experiences, are not to be missed, and our Top Eco-Attractions, showcase the very best of our natural world. Wishing you safe and magical, extraordinary summer of staycations!
It has felt like a long time to be deprived of the richness and fulfilment travel brings - exploring new places, spending a night at your favourite hotel, unwinding in a spa, or enjoying an afternoon tea in a beautiful garden. While we might have forgotten how good this all feels, our desire to travel has not been lost. This issue is all about health, wellness and meaningful travel – ‘slow travel’ (as it has recently been dubbed). So, if you’re looking for an unforgettable trip, to be enjoyed at your own pace, then we hope you will find plenty of inspiration within our summer features. Our top ten life-affirming Health Breaks, are guaranteed to reboot the body and mind, while our Best Tall Ship and Sailing Adventures, offer the ultimate active escapism. The brand-new collection curated National Trust experiences, are not to be missed, and our Top Eco-Attractions, showcase the very best of our natural world. Wishing you safe and magical, extraordinary summer of staycations!
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BRITISH TRAVEL
JOURNAL
explore the british isles
SUMMER 2021 | ISSUE 09
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BritishTravelJournal.com
Welcome
EDITOR’S LETTER
—
EDITORS
EDITOR-IN-CHIEF Jessica Way
FEATURES EDITOR Samantha Rutherford
CHIEF SUB-EDITOR Angela Harding
CONTRIBUTORS
Chantal Borciani, Sophie Farrah,
Helen Holmes, Emma Johnson,
Adrian Mourby, Emma O’Reilly,
Lydia Paleschi, Adrienne Wyper
COVER PHOTO
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near Great Yarmouth, Norfolk
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CAN YOU REMEMBER the last time you
stepped foot on a sandy shore, wandered along
a countryside path with the scents of summer
bloom, or enjoyed fresh local produce cooked
for you to perfection in a beautiful setting?
It has felt like a long time to be deprived of the richness and
fulfilment travel brings - exploring new places, spending a night at
your favourite hotel, unwinding in a spa, or enjoying an afternoon
tea in a beautiful garden. While we might have forgotten how good
this all feels, our desire to travel has not been lost.
This issue is all about health, wellness and meaningful travel –
‘slow travel’ (as it has recently been dubbed). So, if you’re looking
for an unforgettable trip, to be enjoyed at your own pace, then we
hope you will find plenty of inspiration within our summer features.
Our top ten life-affirming Health Breaks, p86 are guaranteed
to reboot the body and mind, while our Best Tall Ship and Sailing
Adventures, p50 offer the ultimate active escapism.
The brand-new collection of curated National Parks experiences,
p32 are not to be missed, and our Top Eco-Attractions, p44
showcase the very best of our natural world.
If spending 48 Hours in Babbacombe, South Devon appeals, I
hope you will enjoy my recent memoir, p78, and if a historic town
is on your summer agenda, lace your boots up ready for a walk
around the picturesque Chester City Walls, p92.
If all this wanderlust is leaving you feeling thirsty, yet hungry for
more, Mead Bubbly from Bees, p18 and our Chef’s Table, round up of
the best gourmet dining experiences, p72 should hopefully hit-thespot
- leaving no excuses for an evening of epicurean-delights.
Hotels and destinations across the British Isles have never been
more ready to welcome us back - I am delighted to be setting off on
my British journeys again soon, and I hope you will be too - wishing
you a safe and magical, extraordinary summer!
@BritishTravelJournal
Jessica x
JESSICA WAY
EDITOR-IN-CHIEF
–
@BritishTravelJournal
@BTravelJournal
SHORTLISTED
BritishTravelJournal.com 3
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CONTENTS
SUMMER 2021 | ISSUE 09
—
44
32
IMAGE © VISITBRITAIN/ROD EDWARDS/MALCOLMSNELGROVE
JOTTINGS
09
TRAVEL NEWS
Our selection of the finest new staycation
packages, from safari park luxury lodges to the
latest five-star hotel in the centre of London, there’s
something new in the city, coast and countryside.
MEET THE MAKERS OF MEAD
18 BUBBLY FROM BEES
We’re going mad over mead this summer, made
from just two ingredients: water and honey… and
perhaps the world’s oldest alcoholic drink.
HARBOUR HOTELS
24 Drift away with us while discovering more
about this exciting hotel brand's new Sleep Retreat
in Richmond and Beach Club in Salcombe - both
launching this summer.
FOR YOUR JOURNEY
100 Latest travel essentials and crossword.
FEATURES
32
NATIONAL PARKS EXPERIENCES
A brand-new collection of curated experiences
has launched this summer across England’s nine
iconic National Parks, from bushcraft to goat herding,
kayaking to night-time reserve walks.
TOP ECO-ATTRACTIONS
44 Be inspired and educated, as well as
entertained, by visiting our top ten UK projects
which showcase our natural world at the same time
as working to protect it.
THE BEST OF TALL SHIPS AND
50 SAILING ADVENTURES
From metropolitan marinas and busy ports to the
open seas and peaceful archipelagos, sailing is the
definition of both freedom and excitement.
à
BritishTravelJournal.com 5
64
E D I T O R
L O V E S
Add a splash of retro chic to your
summer wardrobe with these
Rhodium framed sunglasses - part
of the new Silhouette collection, Sun
Lite, priced £260. #tryitwearitloveit
silhouette.com
The White Company's perfect
on-the-go essential for holidays
and weekends away, Spa
Restore Essentials Set, along
with a useful Spa Headband and
Waffle Bag to keep all the pieces
together. Refreshingly cool and
rejuvenating, it feels like walking
into a luxurious spa, priced £55.
thewhitecompany.com
78
DESTINATIONS
64
OUTDOOR DIPS
Our top outdoor pools for taking
the plunge this summer, from laps in fivestar
luxury, soaking up the skyline from a
city rooftop to reconnecting with nature in a
stylish swimming ‘pond’.
CHEF'S TABLE
72 Discover staycation dining with
our round up of the best gourmet at-home
dining options from Michelin chef catering to
curated menus delivered direct to your door.
48 HOURS IN BABBACOMBE
78 With rugged sandstone cliffs and
azure-blue waters, the coastal scenery
surrounding Cary Arms Hotel & Spa in
Babbacombe, South Devon, is beautiful
enough to rival the Mediterranean.
72
HEALTH BREAKS
88 Relax, get fit, reboot body and mind
and be pampered…all is possible, and at a
social distance, on these revitalising, lifeaffirming
breaks around the British Isles.
WALKING TOUR OF CHESTER
94 CITY WALLS
Now that we are able to wander around
Britain's towns again, visiting historic sites
and stopping somewhere picturesque for a
relaxing lunch, the walled city of Chester is
at the top of our list.
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6 BritishTravelJournal.com
GREAT GIFT IDEAS
The best
birthday gift
for 2021?
Are you looking for a brilliant birthday
present idea?
W
ith the end of lockdown rapidly approaching,
staycations are finally back on the agenda with
Britain’s beautiful hotels ready to reopen their
doors. So, whether you’ve got a birthday coming up or you know
someone who does, there’s no better way to celebrate than with
the gift of Roomcard.
Roomcard is the digital gift card for the world’s 10,000 most
inspirational hotels, covering the very best of Britain and beyond.
Roomcard allows you to add your own customised wrapping
and personal greeting – whether you prefer a video, photo gallery,
spoken or written message. Schedule the delivery of Roomcard
at precisely your chosen time, and then, right on cue, it
will be delivered straight to the recipient’s phone. roomcard.com
TM
Stay, inspired.
Are you making the most
of your holiday home?
At Rural Retreats our team is dedicated to managing your holiday home with
the same care and attention you would, ensuring it fulfils its full potential.
With a range of tailored services to suit your needs, you can be as involved as
much as you like, knowing that you and your guests will be well looked after.
01386 898 658
ruralretreats.co.uk
LOOKING AHEAD...
TRAVEL NEWS
Reignite your passion for travel this summer with our selection of what's
new from hotels, restaurants and visitor attractions across the British Isles
PEAK DISTRICT
The Tawny
If you are looking for a unique, rural and eco-friendly
retreat for your next staycation then consider The
Tawny. This is, as they describe, 'a hotel like no other'.
Accommodation is private and rural, comprising of
wildwood huts, treehouses, romantic boathouses,
luxury retreats - and our personal favourite, the
Lookout - with freestanding bathtub and private deck
with an outdoor spa bath and shower. Could this be
the ultimate country escape we all need? Bathe outside
under starlit skies, enjoy the perfect picnic, share a
meal with gorgeous views of the transformed Consall
Gardens with stunning natural beauty all around - and,
should you need it, there's a fabulous restaurant, room
service, and heated outdoor pool on the estate too. ◆
thetawny.co.uk
Editor loves
EDINBURGH
Audio & Award
Scottish actor, Mark Bonnar, best known for his
roles as Duncan Hunter in Shetland, Bruno Jenkins in
Casualty, and DCC Mike Dryden in Line of Duty, is the
new voice behind The Royal Yacht Britannia's brilliant
audio tour commentary - available to all museum
visitors. Not only this - the 'outstanding attraction' has
just been awarded Best UK Attraction 2020 by Which?
Magazine - and we say, it's well deserved. ◆
royalyachtbritannia.co.uk
BritishTravelJournal.com 9
New hotels and restaurants
CHELSEA
The Apartments by 11
Cadogan Gardens
Following the recent launch of The Mayfair
Townhouse, Iconic Luxury Hotels (owners of
Chewton Glen, Cliveden House and The Lygon
Arms) have opened their doors to yet more
luxurious accommodation in the capital. The
Apartments by 11 Cadogan Gardens are in the
heart of Chelsea life. Knightsbridge, Harrods
and the Saatchi Gallery are all around the
corner, and just a stone’s throw away is
Chelsea’s bustling Sloane Square. Stay and
enjoy 11 Cadogan Gardens own Hans’ Bar &
Grill, nestled amongst the artisanal shops and
food suppliers of picturesque Pavilion Road.
Prices from £270 per night. ◆
11cadogangardens.com
BERKSHIRE
North Lodge, Coworth Park
Coworth Park - one of the three extraordinary
British hotels owned by the iconic Dorchester
collection (the other two being 45 Park Lane and
The Dorchester) is an idyllic 70-bedroom Mansion
House, yet nestled within its 240 acre grounds
there are more hidden treasures to discover.
The latest gem to be unveilled is North Lodge,
a delightfully cosy gatehouse cottage, and the
second in their collection of private signature
suites, alongside The Dower House - a Grade II
listed cottage built in 1775. North Lodge is set
amongst idyllic private gardens, and has been
beautifully restored with its own idyllic country
garden, three en-suite bedrooms, a roll-top
bath, gated entrance, state-of-the-art kitchen
and private chef. To elevate the experience, spa
therapists can even perform treatments in the
comfort of your suite. Pure bliss! ◆
dorchestercollection.com
10 BritishTravelJournal.com
SURREY
Vineyards of the Surrey Hills
One of the home counties is giving the French a run for their money
with a newly-formed collective of five vineyards set in an Area of
Outstanding Natural Beauty, inviting you to try their English Wines.
surreyhillsvineyards.co.uk
VALE OF AYLESBURY
Fine dining at Waddesdon
The grounds to Waddesdon's Windmill Hill have been
opened to visitors for the first time, offering a new
award-winning dining experience. Pictured right,
these new dining domes, set between the cutting-edge
art and architecture, offer fine dining experiences
within a covid-safe bubble. You are also located high
on the hill, overlooking the Vale of Aylesbury - the
same spectacular view which first drew Ferdinand de
Rothschild to Waddesdon in 1874. You can now dine in
a location which has never been open to guests before,
enjoying fresh seasonal menus paired with delicious
cocktails and wines. Lunch, afternoon tea and dinner
sittings are available from 20 May-13 June. ◆
diningdomes.group/waddesdonwindmillhill
New whisky experience
SUTHERLAND
Highland home of Johnnie Walker
Located on Scotland’s North Coast 500 route through the world
famous Highlands, the previously named Clynelish Distillery experience
has been completely reimagined as 'world-beating, multi-sensory
and interactive'. There's also a brand new terrace bar (pictured left)
overlooking Brora’s rolling hills from which to enjoy a Scotch highball
or dram. Plus there is excitement building around the brand-new,
much-anticipated, Johnnie Walker Princes Street whisky visitor experience
opening in Edinburgh this summer too. We'll cheer Slàinte Mhath to that. ◆
malts.com/en-gb/tours
BritishTravelJournal.com 11
Family adventures
CHISWICK
Bring Into Being
Chiswick House & Gardens is a popular
family attraction - a Roman style Palladian
villa designed by the Third Earl of
Burlington and 65-acre Grade-1 listed,
award-winning Gardens, but now there's
another reason to visit. In a new direction,
the 18th century heritage site has launched
a creative artistic programme, Bring Into
Being (27 May - 31 October 2021), featuring
three site-specific artwork installations by
Turner-prize winning artist Mark Wallinger,
esteemed sound artist Peter Adjaye and
installation artist Jaimini Patel.
Prices Adults £11, Family £23.50. ◆
chiswickhouseandgardens.org.uk
HERTFORDSHIRE
The Grove
Set in 300 acres of verdant Hertfordshire countryside, this ultimate
five-star retreat has been completely remastered. Following a twoyear
long refurbishment, all three of their restaurants, lobby and west
wing bedrooms have been completely transformed, re-emerging after
lockdown as a new hotel. Lovingly restored, The Grove is the former
home of the Earls of Clarendon, with a rich history dating back to
the 1500s. In addition to 215 luxurious guestrooms, The Grove has an
award-winning spa, championship golf course, an original Walled
Garden, heated outdoor pool and even boasts its own ‘beach'.
Nightly rates start from £370 for a West Wing Classic Room. ◆
thegrove.co.uk
COVENT GARDEN
The Art of Banksy
The world’s largest collection of privately owned Banksy art is now on view
in Earlham Street in a new exhibition until 20 November, having previously
travelled across the globe from Toronto to Melbourne. artofbanksy.co.uk
IMAGE © RICKARD MONÉUS
12 BritishTravelJournal.com
NATIONWIDE
The Ultimate Staycation Breakfast
Heading off on holiday? Delivered straight to your holiday
home, the Staycation Bundle contains everything you need for
a delicious, hearty breakfast, to include Dry Cured Back Bacon,
Cacklebean Mixed Chicken Eggs and British Piccolo Tomatoes.
The Staycation Bundle is priced £22.50, 44foods.com
SOUTH WALES
Zip World Tower
Zip World have launched a new site, Zip World
Tower, set in the iconic Rhigos mountain
range with stunning views that overlook the
beautiful Welsh landscape, including the
Brecon Beacons. The adventure hub is home
to Phoenix, the world’s fastest seated zip line,
Big Red, a mobile zip version for kids, and
Tower Coaster, a toboggan-style rollercoaster
(if you dare!). The site is situated at the old
Tower Colliery coal mining site - the oldest
continuously working deep coal mine in the
UK, prior to its closure in 2008 - and Zip World
Tower has been designed to create a lasting
legacy to its deep-rooted mining heritage. ◆
zipworld.co.uk/location/tower
You might also enjoy
WORCESTERSHIRE
Safari Park Animal Lodges
West Midland Safari Park have launched their long-awaited Safari
Lodges, welcoming guests to stay for the very first time at the luxury
overnight accommodation. Six of the lodges offer the only overnight
experience with elephants in the UK, whilst two more lodges offer
incredible views of the Park’s cheetahs , designed to give guests an
immersive and unforgettable overnight wildlife experience. Prices start
from £171 per adult per night and £147 per night for a child. ◆
safari-lodges.co.uk
BritishTravelJournal.com 13
We love
The Snuggy
If you're heading on a glamping trip, pod, log cabin or shepherd
hut style, where sitting around a fire pit in the evening and toasting
marshmallows is a must then we recommend adding a super soft
fleece Snuggy to your packing list. Available in five different colours,
priced £59.99, or for children £34.99, snuggy.shop
NORTH NORFOLK
Godwick Hall
'Schlamping' is the new term for glamping at Godwick Hall, with
the launch of their three stunning new luxurious shepherds huts.
Set in 100 acres of quintessential English countryside with sheep
dotted about the pastures and the lost medieval village of Godwick,
which is open to explore. Think oak wooden floors, butler sinks and
narrowboat wood burners, outdoor firepits and plenty of extra wood.
Just add a glass of fizz and marvel at the stars for the perfect ‘getting
away from it all’ experience. In the morning enjoy a continental or
bacon buttie breakfast delivered to the hut before setting out to
explore the Norfolk countryside and beautiful beaches. Shepherd's
Huts prices from £90/night minimum two night stay. ◆
godwickhall.co.uk
CORNWALL
Water's Edge
Who doesn’t want to be by the water’s edge
right now? With more of us searching for
properties to accommodate large family
groups, this wonderful five bedroom retreat
close to the sea in Mawgan Porth must fill you
with multi-generation travelust. Not only is it
a short stroll from the beach, it’s also just steps
from the South West Coastal Path – perfect for
combining fitness with fabulous views. It is also
just around the corner from The Scarlett, which
offers amazing spa treatments and a wonderful
swimming pool as well as incredible meals.
Prices from £1,719 for a long weekend or
mid week break. ◆
boutique-retreats.co.uk
14 BritishTravelJournal.com
BritishTravelJournal.com 15
PICCADILLY
The Dilly
Have you missed dancing? The Dilly is not only the latest five-star hotel
to open in the centre of London, but the first to offer its own dedicated
dance studio – Inspiration 2 Dance. For private groups and family
lessons, guests are invited to learn Smooth, Latin and/or Ballroom from
world-class teachers. Bookable via the website or the hotel’s concierge.
Room rates start from £219, thedillylondon.com
SHROPSHIRE
Sham Castle
Searching for a stay with the wow factor?
Built in 1780, this beautiful Grade II* listed
folly boasts far reaching, panoramic and
spectacular views across rolling countryside to
the Wrekin and has it in droves. Its enviable,
elevated position on top of a rock knoll
overlooks a lake and 1.75 acres of enclosed
gardens. Enjoy sun loungers and fruit trees -
when the fruit is ripe you are welcome to pick
what you want. Sham Castle is the perfect
romantic escape - needless to say, you could
lose yourselves here for days.
Sleeps four guests, prices from £867 for a 3-night
stay with welcome hamper included. ◆
ruralretreats.co.uk
You might also enjoy
BUCKINGHAMSHIRE
Horwood House
For those looking for a touch of rural luxury, stunning Grade II listed country
house hotel Horwood House is just the ticket. Steeped in history and set
deep within the idyllic Buckinghamshire countryside, the hotel has reopened
following an extensive £5.5 million refurbishment of its 165 bedrooms, lounge
areas, 38 acres of landscaped gardens and new restaurants. It has launched
a series of new staycation packages, such as Picnic in the Park, which includes
an overnight stay, breakfast, dinner, picnic afternoon tea for you to enjoy al
fresco – sandwiches with a side of nature. Priced at £189 for two people. ◆
horwoodhouse.co.uk
BritishTravelJournal.com 17
18 BritishTravelJournal.com
MEET THE MAKERS OF...
MEAD
BUBBLY FROM BEES
Perhaps the world’s oldest alcoholic drink, mead is
made from just two ingredients: water and honey…
Words | Adrienne Wyper
RECORDS SHOW THAT mead was made as long ago as
8,000BC, and some sources believe it may have originally
occurred naturally, when honey and rainwater mixed in
the hollow of a tree and fermented, later to be spotted and
sampled by curious humans.
Since then, production techniques have become more sophisticated,
and yeast is added, to supplement the natural yeasts in the
atmosphere. Simple yet versatile, mead can vary widely, from deep
caramel to pale lemon in colour, from dry to sweet, still or sparkling.
And its alcohol content can range from around four per cent, on a
par with beer, up to 20%, similar to a fortified wine.
Mead made from more than honey and water has several different
names: with added herbs or spices it’s metheglin; with fruit such
as cherries or blackberries, which helped to preserve the harvest in
past times, it’s melomel, or cyser if apple is added; and pyment, with
grape juice. Special honeys, such as orange blossom or heather, can
influence the taste of the finished product.
With all this natural variation, there’s a mead to suit all tastes and
à
BritishTravelJournal.com 19
“
New meadmakers position the world’s
oldest drink as a contemporary choice, a
traditional drink brought up to date, in the
same way as craft beer
”
all drinking occasions. Many factors inspire a thirst for mead: whether
it’s a desire for local produce with a sense of terroir (mead is made all
over the UK), an appreciation of the work of bees and beekeepers, a
taste for a natural product, a taste for heritage, or simply the urge to try
something new to you.
And it’s as varied and versatile as wine. Rod Marsh, who runs the
Cider Barn at Middle Farm (middlefarm.com), a fun-packed working
family farm near the South Downs in East Sussex, which sells 92 bottled
and 18 draught meads, says: “one could readily fashion a meal with a
mead for each course, followed by mead liqueur, and even a distilled
mead nightcap!”
He has seen the drink’s popularity rise in recent years: “When we
started selling mead the only customers were local white witch covens
and re-enactment societies. It has definitely gone mainstream over the
last 10 years. Growing public awareness of the plight of bees worldwide
and a desperate need to find some national identity not associated with
empire have both played a part. The historical association of it being
widely renowned as an aphrodisiac has also, no doubt, had some effect.”
For most people, mead may still be associated with mythical, mistsof-time
images of Vikings and mediaeval monks – or even Game of
Thrones – but new meadmakers position the world’s oldest drink as a
contemporary choice, a traditional drink brought up to date, in the same
way as craft beer.
One of the crop of contemporary meadmakers is Gosnells of London
Meadery (gosnells.co.uk), whose base in Peckham, south London,
couldn’t be further from the flowery meadows that may come to mind
when imagining mead-making. The company has a range of alestrength
canned meads (4%), with innovative limited editions, such as
coffee or blueberry and plantain, along with more traditional bottled
meads. Founder Tom Gosnell says: “Our intention is to create elegant
meads, more akin to sparkling wines or artisan ciders. They are lighter in
colour than most high-alcohol meads, sparkling, fresh and vibrant. They
show the subtlety of honey.”
20 BritishTravelJournal.com
à
BritishTravelJournal.com 21
The company, founded in 2013, puts a lot of effort into
nurturing their natural raw material. “Gosnells’ postcode
meads do demonstrate the trees, bushes and flowers in
different areas of London and its surrounds. They are massively
different from each other,” says Tom. “There is no added
sugar (as in Champagne), and no need for balancing acids
(as in wine), but mead is reliant on our populations of bees –
so we are working on providing them with nectar all through
the year.” To this end, the company has recently opened a
‘mead garden’, with pollinating plants recommended by the
Bumblebee Conservation Trust and London apiarists, and
educational materials for visitors to help them be kind to
pollinators. Embracing modern ways of reaching its market, the
company holds monthly online tastings.
22 BritishTravelJournal.com
And if mead strikes you as relatively expensive,
consider the incredible industry required to produce its
main ingredient. Mead is around three parts water to
one part honey, and a bee needs to gather nectar from
two million flowers to make one pound of honey. To
reach all those flowers, she flies 90,000 miles, three
times round the world.
On cost, Rod cautions: “If you can buy a bottle
of mead for under a tenner it is almost definitely a
pyment, ie mixed with grape juice – a far cheaper
commodity than honey.”
As a man who knows his mead, Rod rates
the following producers, as well as Gosnells.
Baldur Mead by the Lancashire Mead Company
(lancashiremeadcompany.co.uk), fermented
out to dryness in the traditional manner. In the
Scottish Highlands Christopher Mullins, an Iraq and
Afghanistan veteran, at The Rookery Craft Mead
(rookery.scot), fashions clean, natural and complex
flavours from foraged ingredients including spruce,
silver birch, crab apple, plum, sloe, lavender, pear,
mint and ginger, creating seasonal ‘midwinter’ and
‘midsummer’ brews, and even sells Viking-style
drinking horns. In Cornwall there’s Ninemaidens
“
If you can buy a bottle of mead
for under a tenner it is almost
definitely a pyment, ie mixed
with grape juice – a far cheaper
commodity than honey
”
Mead (ninemaidensmead.co.uk) with fruit, spiced
and 40% distilled options. In Wales there’s Mountain
Mead (mountainmead.co.uk), who suggest mixing
mead with tonic or making a meady Kir royale
by topping up their Telor y Coed medium-sweet
mead with Champagne, and Wye Valley Meadery
(wyevalleymeadery.co.uk), who apply modern
brewing techniques to the most ancient beverage.
In Rod’s opinion, the best examples of traditional
mead are Dr Hugh Howard Tripp’s Pennard Vineyard
Mead (12%; pennardorganicwines.co.uk/shop.asp)
from Somerset, and Christopher Mullins’s Rookery
Mead (17%), with the best liqueur mead “by far”
Beeble (30%; beeble.buzz) from North Wiltshire
made by Ellie Berry (beekeeper) and Matthew Brauer
(bookkeeper) and fortified with fine Scotch whisky.
Whether it’s a traditional true mead, or one with a
21st-century twist, mead is creating a bit of a buzz….
BritishTravelJournal.com 23
LUXURY ESCAPE...
HARBOUR
HOTELS
DRIFT AWAY
Perfectly positioned in some of the UK's most desirable
destinations, exciting evolving hotel brand, Harbour Hotels, launches
a Sleep Retreat in Richmond and Harbour Beach Club in
Salcombe this summer, adding to its already impressive collection
of luxury hotels. British Travel Journal settles in for the night…
Words | Emma Johnson
IF YOU HAVE NOT YET heard of Harbour Hotels it could be that you have
not been booking into the right hotels – or like most of us, due to the
pandemic, any hotels at all. Yet, in all the turmoil of the past year, one silver
lining for this impressive British business, has been their ability to re-emerge,
with yet more exciting stylish properties and experiences to welcome back their
enthusiastic and eager guests. Specialists in luxury, boutique retreats, with
hotels in the heart of our finest towns, coastlines and cities, Harbour Hotels offer
stylish stays in some of the most stunning and iconic locations, from seafronts
to harbours, to royal parks and historic manor houses on country estates. There
are over 15 Harbour Hotels across the UK, and a further two launching this year;
Richmond Harbour’s new Sleep Retreat and the Harbour Beach Club, a stylish
waterfront hotel and resort on South Sands Beach in Salcombe.
à
BritishTravelJournal.com 25
A brand staple in the Harbour Hotels
collection are their costal properties,
which make for the perfect summer
retreat - we love The Brighton Harbour
Hotel, situated in a restored Regency
period building, right on Brighton’s iconic
and lively seafront.
In Cornwall, their hotel in Fowey is just
steps from the beach with picture-perfect
views over Fowey’s estuary; while The
Padstow Harbour Hotel is perched above
the charismatic fishing port, in a stunning
Victorian mansion.
Newly-opened this year, we’re also really
excited about the Harbour Beach Club,
with a laid-back feel, luxury rooms and
spa, wide outdoor terraces and a fantastic
beach bar, it looks set to become a key
destination for staycationing this summer.
Perhaps the most exciting of them all
however, and a completely new concept
for the hotel brand, is the forwardthinking
magnificently restored 18th
century Richmond Harbour Hotel & Spa,
situated on top of Richmond Hill, home to
the only luxury spa in Richmond and their
newly launched break, the Sleep Retreat.
As a hotel brand which has always put
well-being first, the launch of Richmond
Harbour Sleep Retreat is no surprise.
Getting a good night’s rest can be
Pictured
previous
spread: Fowey
Harbour Hotel
Pictured
left-right:
Richmond
Harbour Hotel;
Fowey
Harbour Hotel
restaurant; and
Padstow
Harbour Hotel
“
Richmond Harbour & Spa is a haven of
peace and tranquillity, offering a wellness
journey like no other, providing guests
from all over the world with an urban
sanctuary to switch off and recharge
”
hard enough at the best of times, topped off with the
pandemic to cope with too, The White Company Sleep
Retreat Spa Break could not sound more tempting.
Perfectly situated next to Richmond Park and just
moments from the river, the hotel is within easy strolling
distance of Richmond Village and the town centre with
its many shops and restaurants. The hotel has also
introduced a range of outdoor activities designed to
improve guests’ physical and mental wellbeing – from
daily guided meditation walks to running sessions,
outdoor bootcamps and nature trails.
26 BritishTravelJournal.com
Michael Warren, Managing Director of
Harbour Hotels, says: “Richmond Harbour Hotel
& Spa is a haven of peace and tranquillity,
offering a wellness journey like no other,
providing guests from all over the world
with an urban sanctuary to switch off and
recharge.”
It’s a truism that things always look better
in the morning, and that’s because sleep is so
incredibly important for both our health and
our happiness. We know now, more than ever,
how vital a good night’s sleep is - not only
for our bodies, but also our minds. When we
sleep, while our bodies rest and rejuvenate, our
minds also relax and our stresses melt away.
And, as you slip between the crisp Egyptian
cotton sheets at the Richmond Harbour Hotel &
Spa, soothed by the scents of sleep-inducing
candle and a soothing White Company pillow
à
BritishTravelJournal.com 27
“
Having had the delight of
staying in many of the Harbour
Hotels it has been wonderful
to see how stylish and different
each hotel is.
”
mist, you’ll know that a good night’s sleep is
finally ahead of you. After a year of considerable
challenges, making a commitment to improving
your sleep is time well spent.
Start with an enlivening early morning
yoga class followed by a wonderful hour-long
‘Drift Away’ massage, using a relaxing blend
of essential oils such as patchouli, geranium,
frankincense, myrrh, dill seed and orange.
Later on, you can soak away any worries
in the world-class HarSPA - a wellness oasis
offering much-needed tranquillity and respite
from the whirl of city life, with a sauna, steam
room, a heated 20-metre swimming pool,
and – our favourite – a secluded outdoor Zen
garden furnished with Nordic-inspired sofas and
armchairs – and bubbling Scandinavian hot tubs
to dip in.
After a healthy dinner of kale tagliatelle with
goat’s cheese or a vegan burger with beetroot and
chickpeas in The Gate restaurant, you can retire to
your room, greeted by The White Company’s Sleep
Collection gift box, which includes a Sleep Candle,
Calming Bath Soak, a Nourishing Body Cream,
a Soothing Pillow Mist and a Fluffy Eye Mask.
Drifting off to the scents of lavender, restorative
clary sage and soothing chamomile, and sipping
a warm cup of herbal tea, your mind gets quiet,
gently resting, ready for sleep.
Quintessentially British brand, The White
Company, has been in partnership with Harbour
Hotels since 2013 offering their fabulous ‘Flowers’
toiletries range in all the hotels.
“It’s truly the perfect partnership of two very
British brands, and our collaboration on the Sleep
Retreat brings together all these values of luxury
and wellbeing in the perfect self-care package",
explains The White Company’s Janie Martin.
"Having had the delight of staying in many of
the Harbour Hotels it has been wonderful to see
how stylish and different each hotel is.
Plus, their exceptional staff makes your stay
even more enjoyable.”
Pictured above:
Bathroom
at Salcombe
Harbour
Hotel & Spa;
Bedroom
at Brighton
Harbour
Hotel & Spa.
Pictured left:
Bathroom at
Fowey Harbour
Hotel featuring
The White
Company
toiletries
28 BritishTravelJournal.com
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10 OF THE BEST
NATIONAL
PARK
EXPERIENCES
From bushcraft to goat
herding, kayaking to
night-time reserve walks,
make this a summer to
remember with these
fabulous new experiences
from our National Parks
Words | Jessica Way
Loch Lomond
& The Trossachs
Cairngorms
Northumberland
ABRAND-NEW COLLECTION
of curated experiences
has launched this summer
across England’s nine iconic
National Parks - with more planned for
Scotland and Wales soon. There are
currently over 80 incredible adventures,
being offered by passionate people who
want to share their love of nature and
the outdoors. If you’re a foodie, history
buff, landscape lover or wildlife fan,
we hope you enjoy our pick of the best
here. To find out more and to book any
of the experiences visit the new booking
website: nationalparks.uk/experiences.
Lake District
Yorkshire Dales
Peak District
Snowdonia
Pembrokeshire
Coast
Brecon Beacons
Exmoor
Dartmoor
North York Moors
Broads
South Downs
New Forest
32 BritishTravelJournal.com
HIDDEN GEM
—
Wistman's Wood:
This enchanting wood
seems to belong in a
fairy tale. Home to a
carpet of deep green
moss underfoot and
finger-like branches
of dwarf oak trees and
corkscrew branches
above, the fascinating
Wistman’s Wood is one
of only three remote,
high-altitude oak woods
in Dartmoor
Dartmoor National Park
—
From vast wild moorlands to
imposing rock formations and river
valleys that cut deep through the
landscape, Dartmoor National Park
offers a mix of relaxing surroundings
and active adventures. Tackle the
hills on two wheels, amble along
miles of walking routes or come
face-to-face with some of the
region’s rare wildlife
1
GEMS OF DARTMOOR PHOTOGRAPHY
This photography workshop will give you the
fundamentals of great photography. Vivid colours
and atmospheric sunlight go hand-in-hand so that the
moor is ablaze with an astonishing vibrancy, perfect for
creating dramatic photographs. Visit destinations that
are off the beaten track and learn how to frame and
capture stunning images under the expert guidance of
a local photographer. Learn how to use your camera or
phone to make the most of a location and the light to
create stunning photography. Explore the history and
mysteries of the subjects of your photography and learn
about the conservation of the area too. 8 hours.
Priced from £295.
à
BritishTravelJournal.com 33
HIDDEN GEM
—
Long Man of Wilmington:
Standing as the tallest
chalk figure in the
UK, the Long Man
of Wilmington is an
interesting highlight
along the South Downs.
With a past that is
riddled with mystery,
this historic site is
surrounded by lush green
countryside, gentle hills
and postcard-perfect
villages – ideal for a
stress-busting stroll
in southern England’s
countryside
South Downs National Park
—
Discover the world-famous white cliffs, rolling
green hills, ancient woodland, rich wetlands
and lowland heaths. Stretching across the south
of England, the South Downs National Park –
with its long distance paths, cycle routes and rare
wildlife – is a real haven for outdoor enthusiasts
and culture seekers. Get inspired by the dramatic
cliffs and picturesque villages found throughout
the National Park
2
BAIT TO PLATE FLY FISHING,
SOUTH DOWNS
Start with a two-hour fly-fishing taster experience
at Chalk Springs Trout Fishery nestled on the
edge of the historic market town of Arundel in
the South Downs. Then, with fish in hand - if you
don't catch one yourself one trout per person
is provided - it’s over to Fins & Forks HQ for a
hands-on session at the smokehouse kitchen.
Prepare and cure your catch for the smoker
choosing one of the signature cure flavourings.
Your cold smoked trout will be posted to you after
the session– perfect for brunch and sharing your
story about the one that did not get away!
Priced from £99
34 BritishTravelJournal.com
Exmoor National Park
—
With a unique mosaic of expansive moorlands,
woodland valleys, rolling hills and dramatic coastline,
Exmoor National Park is a firm favourite among
walkers. Visitors can keep an eye out for Exmoor ponies
and red deer by day and marvel at the stars by night, as
they explore this ancient and wild landscape
3WILD FORAGING,
EXMOOR
Learn about how your ancestors survived.
This introduction to wild foraging with botanist
Liz Cwilewicz will help you learn how to
confidently identify and harvest up to 15 wild
edibles. Deliver into the history and culture of
Exmoor National Park and discover the folklore
and medicinal uses behind these edibles.
2 hours, priced from £10
HIDDEN GEM
—
Cow Castle: Found high
on Exmoor, Cow Castle
is an impressive Iron Age
fort nestled alongside
the soothing River Barle
valley. But history is not
all this hidden gem has
to offer, for beneath the
ancient fort is a wild
landscape, babbling
river and even a deep
pool, a secluded spot for
wild swimming. Those
planning an adventure
here should note that
this site can only be
found on foot, lying two
miles from the small
village of Simonsbath
BritishTravelJournal.com 35
Peak District
—
From breathtaking views of stunning limestone valleys
and rugged gritstone landscapes to magnificent stately
homes, the Peak District has a contrasting range of
natural beauty. Highlights include Edale’s Kinder
Scout and the Castleton caves, the only place in the
world where the semi-precious mineral Blue John
is mined. The Peak District was also the UK’s first
National Park, founded in 1951
4
MOUNTAIN HARES DISCOVERY
WALK, PEAK DISTRICT
The highest points in the Peak District are the
only places in England where you can still find
Mountain Hares. Most people will never see
them when out walking but this guide has a
100% success rate. The walk starts from the
Snake Pass road, between Glossop and Sheffield.
After a gradual climb of around 200m, you’ll
leave the Pennine Way path navigating across
the complex moorland terrain to some of the
best locations to see Mountain Hares in their
natural habitat. There’s the chance to see shorteared
owls, golden plover, red grouse, kestrels
and learn about the ecology and restoration
of these amazing bog and moorland habitats.
After observing the hares, you’ll head to the
incredible and moving location of the site of the
B29 Superfortress "Over Exposed" plane crash. A
camera with a long lens or zoom and binoculars
are worth taking but if you don’t have the gear
don’t worry – the guide will send you a set of
digital photos taken on the day.
Priced from £38 per person
HIDDEN GEM
—
Thor’s Cave, Wetton: Hidden away
behind the Staffordshire village of
Wetton in the Peak District, Thor’s
Cave is a fascinating geological
finale to a relaxing countryside
walk. After strolling along a quaint
country path, visitors will see the
wonderful arched mouth emerge in
the distance. Reached by a stepped
path, the natural limestone cavern
has an inviting entrance that leads to
a space that’s occupation dates back
to the Stone Age. As well as exploring
this ancient habitation space, visitors
will be treated to stunning views of
the valley below to boot!
36 BritishTravelJournal.com
5
CLIMBING THROUGH HISTORY,
PEAK DISTRICT
Try climbing, abseiling and scrambling for the
first time or develop existing skills with local
experts. The history of the Peak District National
Park is etched in the unique gritstone crags that
line the valley edges. This world-famous rock,
besides being an integral part of the area’s
industrial heritage, has formed the favoured
vertical playground for generations of climbers
and scramblers. Follow in their footsteps by
climbing, scrambling and abseiling under the
expert guidance of a local instructor. Learn about
the history and geology, flora and fauna of this
unique area.
Priced from £85
à
BritishTravelJournal.com 37
HIDDEN GEM
—
Crackpot Hall: For epic
scenery with a side of
local history, walk to
the fascinating ruins of
Crackpot Hall. Tucked
away at the foot of rolling
hills, Crackpot Hall is the
ruins of an 18th century
smallholding, abandoned
in 1953. There are
staggering views in
several directions, this
site overlooks Swinner
Gill, where sweeping
valleys were once home
to a thriving lead mining
industry, the remains of
which can still be seen
today.
IMAGE © VISITBRITAIN//THOMAS HEATON
The Yorkshire Dales National Park
—
Home to the Three Peaks of Pen-y-ghent,
Whernside and Ingleborough, The Yorkshire
Dales National Park is an area known
for its rich farming heritage, lush heather
moors, labyrinth of caves, rolling valleys
embellished with traditional field barns and
drystone walls – giving visitors a look into
Britain’s countryside, both past and present.
6RECONNECTING WITH NATURE,
YORKSHIRE DALES
Immerse yourself in the tranquil Yorkshire
Dales landscape and enjoy a full exploration
of fascinating and beautiful Gunnerside Gill in
Swaledale. You’ll get a feel for how different this
area must have been 200 years ago when it was
bustling with people and machinery.
Experience and understand more about how
nature has slowly been reclaiming the landscape
and plans for future nature recovery in the area.
As well as enjoying a picnic with local delicacies
and dipping your toes in the beck, the day
includes a visit to a 200-year-old working smithy
and a drink in the local pub.
7 hours, priced from £35 per person
38 BritishTravelJournal.com
Northumberland National Park
—
Ancient monuments, rolling moorland and the uplands
of the Cheviot Hills make Northumberland National
Park – Europe’s largest International Dark Sky Park – as
tranquil as the stars are bright! The remote heathercovered
hills, iconic Hadrian’s Wall World Heritage
Site and unspoilt historic islands mean it’s a must for
scenery-centric bucket lists.
7PATROL HADRIAN’S WALL,
NORTHUMBERLAND
Venture into ‘bandit country’ where Romans
dared to march as you patrol the northern
frontier with a National Park Ranger. Start out
from The Sill National Landscape Discovery
Centre where you’ll pick up an E-mountain
bike. You’ll cycle together along the most
iconic section of Hadrian’s Wall including an
off-road section along an ancient byway with
outstanding views. As you explore quiet country
lanes and byways you’ll be immersed in tales
of how Hadrian’s Wall was made and enjoy a
flavour of what life was like.
Priced from £30.
IMAGE © VISITBRITAIN/YIN SUN PHOTOGRAPHY
HIDDEN GEM
—
Hareshaw Linn,
Bellingham: Dream of
walking through the
charming woodland,
crossing quaint bridges
and marvelling at the
deep green waterfall
at Northumberland’s
Hareshaw Linn. A
secluded spot brimming
with flora and fauna,
fans of the great
outdoors can spot rare
ferns and lichen, as well
as red squirrels and
wood warblers.
à
BritishTravelJournal.com 39
‘wandermust’
WHICH ONE’S ON YOUR
‘WANDERMUST’
LIST?
An eclectic collection of unique properties, with personalities as distinctly individual as our guests.
ICONICLUXURYHOTELS.COM
THE MAYFAIR TOWNHOUSE | CHEWTON GLEN | CLIVEDEN HOUSE | THE LYGON ARMS | 11 CADOGAN GARDENS
IMAGE © VISITBRITAIN/TOMO BREJC
The Lake District National Park
—
The Lake District is home to
awe-inspiring landscapes, high fells,
deep glacial lakes and quaint rural
villages. Now a World Heritage Site,
the rugged yet beautiful National
Park has the highest mountains in
England, the largest being Scafell
Pike, and is one of Britain’s most
scenic spots in any season.
HIDDEN GEM
—
Ennerdale Water: Those
longing to experience
utter tranquillity have
hit the jackpot, as
Ennerdale Water is the
National Park’s most
remote lake. Offering a
peaceful slice of Britain’s
vast countryside, those
planning on visiting
Ennerdale can expect
crystal-clear waters,
wonderful forest walks
and outstanding views
of the surrounding
hilly landscape. This
Lake District secret
is so remote that it
cannot be reached by
road, although active
adventurers can hop
on a bike and enjoy
the 10-mile cycle path
that connects it to
Whitehaven.
8NIGHT TIME ADVENTURE,
LAKE DISTRICT
The natural world changes at night
as different animals emerge and new
noises are heard. You’ll get kitted out
with binoculars, night-vison equipment
and bat detectors so that you can get
a really good look at how nocturnal
creatures make the world their own once
the sun goes down. Finish up around
an open fire with a bowl of something
warm and delicious.
4 hours, priced from £35
à
BritishTravelJournal.com 41
9
FOSSILS, FORAGE & FEAST,
NORTH YORK MOORS
Join our experienced leaders to explore a hidden
cove such as Boggle Hole or Runswick Bay on the
North York Moors Heritage Coast. We’ll help you
to find the secret creatures hiding in rock pools,
to discover Jurassic fossils, forage for seashore
snacks, and then to cook and eat some of the food
you’ve found, which is extra tasty when cooked
on an open beach fire! Depending on the wishes
of the group the experience can include hunting
for Jurassic fossils from 200 million years ago,
including dinosaur footprints and the worldfamous
ammonites and Whitby Jet and exploring
the rock pools and rocky shoreline to meet the
animals and plants that live there. Some of these
(seaweed, shell fish, crabs and lobsters) we will
forage to provide a beach cooked meal and
depending on the time of year/day, it may also be
possible to add in an evening of stargazing.
Priced from £45
North York Moors National Park
—
A place of extraordinary heritage with
countryside to match, the North York Moors
have rolling hills, deep wooded dales,
captivating coasts, ancient abbeys, tumbling
streams and timeless villages – this is a
National Park mixing both unexpected and
quintessential beauty. There is also a heritage
railway system, part of the National Parks
Experience Collection.
HIDDEN GEM
—
Hayburn Wyke: Found
along the Cleveland Way
National Trail, hidden
beyond deer-dwelling
woodland, the secret
cove of Hayburn Wyke
offers a pebbled
paradise, home to a
host of shallow rock
pools at the foot of
dramatic cliffs. A place
to explore from both
above and below, those
longing for a relaxing
coastal walk can dream
of strolling along the
clifftops, discovering
an old railway line and
wandering through
ancient woodlands.
42 BritishTravelJournal.com
HIDDEN GEM
—
Winterton-On-Sea:
Nestled between
sweeping sandy beaches
and the natural beauty
of the Norfolk Broads,
Winterton-On-Sea is
a picturesque British
seaside village ideal
for those longing for a
taste of the quiet life.
Lighthouses, traditional
thatched cottages and
inviting sand dunes
pepper the area, as well
as a 14th century historic
church whose tower is
sometimes open to the
public, for sweeping
panoramic views of the
lowland landscape.
Norfolk Broads National Park
—
A spot known for its idyllic and
vast waterways and some of our
rarest wildlife. Along the 200km
of waterways and between the
vast reed beds, visitors will find
majestic windmills and ancient
monasteries. They may also spy
the otters, swallowtail butterflies,
kingfishers and seals that call this
area home.
10
NATURE KAYAK ADVENTURE, BROADS
This fun and serene activity will take you on a journey through
the usually hard to reach areas of some of the Broads National
Park. You can admire some of the best nature has to offer
and discover Hickling Broad – one of the jewels – with highly
experienced guides. You’ll be met at the launch point with
your kayak and all other safety equipment needed, ready
to be transported out onto the water for this amazing miniadventure.
Using stable and easy to paddle sit-in style double
or single kayaks (depending on group size) there will be every
opportunity for you to see/hear Marsh Harrier, Bearded Tits,
Reed Buntings and Warblers, Avocets and perhaps Bittern,
Otter, Water Voles and more!
4 hours, priced from £85
BritishTravelJournal.com 43
44 BritishTravelJournal.com
SUSTAINABLE TRAVEL...
TOP ECO
ATTRACTIONS
Be inspired and educated, as well as entertained, by
visiting projects which showcase our natural world at
the same time as working to protect it
Words | Helen Holmes
I
T’S BEEN A SURREAL and difficult twelve months. Aside from everything
else, the pandemic has demonstrated how quickly normal life can be turned
upside down. This kind of crisis could just as easily be caused by climate
change as by a health emergency, and the need to protect our planet’s
environment, and with it our own human lives, feels more vital than ever.
As life gradually heads back to something more like normality, we will, of
course, want to get out and about again, and maybe make up for lost time in
the process. Beautiful natural environments are particularly appealing when
we’ve been stuck inside, and Britain has many to offer. We hopefully already
understand that we need to tread lightly when travelling – tourism can easily
destroy a beauty spot if we’re not careful. But we can go one step further than
treading lightly – by visiting, and in the process supporting, places which are
actively seeking to conserve the environment.
We’ve talked to some of our best sustainable attractions about the important
work they’re doing – as well as the beautiful and restorative experiences that
visitors will find to lift their spirits this summer.
à
BritishTravelJournal.com 45
THE CENTRE FOR
ALTERNATIVE TECHNOLOGY
Sited in the UNESCO Dyfi Biosphere
Reserve, on the edge of Snowdonia
National Park, the Centre for
Alternative Technology combines
beautiful organic gardens and
sustainably managed woodlands with
experimental green buildings and
renewable energy systems – a visit is
both an educational and a restorative
experience.
“CAT is probably best known as
a visitor centre,” says John Challen,
Head of the Eco Centre, “but it’s much
more than that. We run postgraduate
degrees in a wide range of topics
relating to sustainability; our Zero
Carbon Britain Hub and Innovation
Lab work with local authorities,
businesses and community groups;
and we have short courses and online
events running all year round.”
From May this year CAT will be
running new nature experiences at
the centre, including gardening for
wildlife, and moth and bat nights.
These are bookable in advance. Early
summer is also the perfect time to
explore gardens in bloom, the buzzing
of nature, and the spectacular views
that surround the centre.
“We inspire, inform, and enable
people to play their part in creating a
sustainable future for all humanity,”
explains John. “A visit to CAT can
really give a sense of hope for the
future – seeing ways of living that allow
people and nature to thrive together is
a real inspiration.”
cat.org.uk
46 BritishTravelJournal.com
IMAGES © ROYAL BOTANIC GARDENS, KEW/LORNE GILL/KEITH MORRIS
STAY NEARBY
Eco Retreats: A few minutes from CAT,
five luxury yurts are spread over 50
acres. Each is set in a secluded area,
away from other guests, and each has
its own outdoor wood-fired bath and
facilities for outdoor fires, as well as a
private eco toilet and shower block.
ecoretreats.co.uk
Living Room Treehouses: Created by
local artisans from local sustainable
wood, the treehouses are built high
in the forest canopy of an ancient
woodland. They have solar-powered
hot showers, as well as running water
from purified local springs.
living-room.co
KEW GARDENS
The Royal Botanical Gardens at
Kew are a 320-acre UNESCO World
Heritage Site, and home to the largest
collection of living plants in the world.
Kew’s world-renowned glasshouses
showcase species from all over the
globe, and are vital for Kew’s scientific
work, protecting endangered plants.
“Over the past year in particular,
we have all come to understand
the importance of nature to our
wellbeing,” says Rachel Purdon,
Head of Sustainability at Kew.
“Visitors to Kew can immerse
themselves in the beauty of their
surroundings, and those seeking to
learn more about plants will find a
wealth of diversity to explore.”
Spring is a magical time to visit the
gardens, with a succession of spring
bulbs at their very best – from carpets
of crocus on the Great Lawn to
swathes of daffodils along the Great
Broad Walk Borders. For blossom
fans, there are 161 cherry trees
waiting to burst into bloom, and the
garden is also home to magnificent
magnolias and unique rhododendron
hybrids. Visitors to Kew are not only
treated to a stunning collection of
rare and impressive plants, they’re
also supporting vital work to protect
the planet’s flora. “RBG Kew strives
for a world where plants and
fungi are understood, valued and
protected,” says Rachel.
kew.org
STAY NEARBY
Birch: Just north of London, Birch is a
luxury hotel with an eco philosophy.
As well as good food and a restful
environment, it offers activities which
range from pottery and art to baking and
gardening. There is also a wellness space,
and a new 25-metre lido opening in May!
birchcommunity.com
Heckfield Place: Heading south west out
of London, Heckfield Place is a 50 minute
drive from Kew. This grand Georgian
building is set in a secluded estate
containing woodlands and meadows.
Food served in the restaurant comes
from the estate’s own home farm, kitchen
gardens and orchard, and the spa offers
all natural treatments.
heckfieldplace.com
BritishTravelJournal.com 47
FINDHORN FOUNDATION
Perched near the coast in the north of
Scotland, Findhorn is an ecovillage,
and also a centre for experiential
workshops, conferences and events.
“We work from the broadest sense of
an environmental perspective,” says
Janet Limb, who runs the foundation’s
public relations. “The environment
is not separate from us, the human
species, it is an ecology of all life.”
Visitors from all over the world
come to Findhorn to slow down, reenergise,
reflect and explore their own
purpose. While residential courses
are currently paused because of the
pandemic, visitors can still explore the
ecovillage – including the whisky barrel
houses and the Universal Hall, hand
built by community members. There
is also a café, and two pottery shops,
and a beautiful bay and beach a few
minutes’ walk away.
“At the Findhorn Foundation we
see each person’s life journey in the
global context of the evolution of the
human species in relationship with the
rest of the natural world,” explains
Janet. “And this takes place in an
aspiring ecovillage demonstrating a
way of life that regenerates people
and planet.”
findhorn.org
STAY NEARBY
Lodges at the Mains: East of
Findhorn, towards Inverness, these
architect-designed, five star eco
lodges are nestled in a secluded
woodland setting. Ground source
heating, solar panels, and cellulose
insulation help the lodges keep their
environmental impact to a minimum,
while wood-fired hot tubs and
bespoke, locally-made furniture mean
that comfort has not been sacrificed
in the process.
lodgesatthemains.co.uk
Hobbit Hideaway: In the foothills of
Ben Rinnes, surrounded on all sides
by stunning scenery, is the Hobbit
Hideaway. This quirky house, built
from wood, straw, clay and stone,
will delight Tolkein fans, as well as
anyone who wants to stay somewhere
unique and sustainable in a beautiful
environment.
hobbithideaway.co.uk
THE EDEN PROJECT
Built on the site of a clay pit in Cornwall,
the Eden Project’s bubble-like biomes
have become an iconic symbol of
sustainable tourism. As well as a visitor
attraction, Eden is an educational charity
and a social enterprise.
Visitors to the project can immerse
themselves in the world’s largest indoor
rainforest – which includes four distinct
types of rainforest environment; a canopy
walkway offers views across the biome
and the biodiversity platform showcases
the range of life in the rainforest. The
Mediterranean biome recreates the
landscapes of the Mediterranean, South
Africa, California and Western Australia,
and outside the biomes there are miles
of pathways winding through 20 acres
of outdoor garden, planted with over
3,000 plant varieties. The project has
been focused on sustainability since its
inception – using pioneering building
techniques, harvesting water on site,
and now experimenting with different
methods of power generation. Eden has
also worked with Natural England to
propagate rare native species and reestablish
them in Cornwall.
48 BritishTravelJournal.com
to see courtship displays from resident
and breeding birds, including the Great
Crested Grebe, and the Goldeneye. Into
early summer the wildflower meadows
come into bloom and the first of the
ducklings can be seen bobbing along
the shoreline. “If you’re really lucky you
might see a grebe carrying its young on
its back, or a flash of blue as a kingfisher
flashes past,” says Neil. The shore side
woodlands are also home to red squirrels.
STAY NEARBY
Balbirnie House
Around 20 miles east of the loch, is
Balbirnie House. This country house
hotel was built in 1777, and views from the
building extend over lawns and flowering
borders, to the 400 acre country estate
beyond.
balbirnie.co.uk
Market Street Hotel
Loch Leven is just 45 minutes from
Edinburgh by car, and if you’d rather
stay in town, Market Street Hotel is a
sophisticated choice. Opened in 2019,
the hotel was built on a derelict site in
the city’s historic centre and sensitively
constructed using locally sourced stone.
marketstreethotel.co.uk
STAY NEARBY
The Scarlet: A 30 minute drive across
the Lizard will take you to The Scarlet.
A luxury eco hotel with sea views,
meadow gardens, and clifftop hot
tubs, The Scarlet lists the 111 ways that
they aim for sustainability on their
website.
scarlethotel.co.uk
Kudhva: Kudhva are architectural
cabins, specifically designed for the
location, just up the Cornish coast
from the Scarlet. They are off-grid
hideouts, raised high above the
ground, with captivating views of the
coastline.
kudhva.com
LOCH LEVEN
Loch Leven is a Scottish National
Nature Reserve, and is known
internationally for the thousands of
ducks and geese that come to breed
there. “It’s an important barometer
for environmental change,” says
Neil Mitchell, the reserve manager.
The loch has been monitored
by scientists for over 60 years
and current work there is focused
on improving water quality, and
improving biodiversity.
Visitors to the loch can enjoy
spectacular natural scenery and
can choose how much of the
accessible 13 mile loch circuit they
feel able to tackle. In spring expect
LOOKING AHEAD...
Gateway at PEAK
Located near Chesterfield, Gateway
at PEAK is a new resort planned for
visitors to the Peak District. It will provide
accommodation for the millions of
visitors that already head to the area
each year. Construction is planned to
start in 2021.
Eden North
The Eden Project is expanding into the
north – and has plans to transform the
Lancashire coastal town of Morecambe.
There are plans for indoor and outdoor
attractions connecting visitors with
the internationally significant natural
environment of Morecambe Bay.
Scheduled to open in 2024.
BritishTravelJournal.com 49
THE BEST OF...
TALL
SHIPS
AND SAILING
ADVENTURES
From metropolitan marinas and busy ports to the
open seas and peaceful archipelagos, sailing is the
definition of both freedom and excitement
Words | Lydia Paleschi
50 BritishTravelJournal.com
THERE’S NO DENYING
it’s possible to experience
the beauty of Britain
from the land, yet there’s
something remarkable
about accessing it via the water. Even
more so whilst aboard a traditional
sailing boat or Tall Ship. Heading
towards the horizon, rigging overhead,
powered by nothing but the wind adds
a sense of excitement to any adventure.
Fortunately, Britain’s diverse coastline
offers a rich selection of places to
explore. From rough seas and Celtic
crossings to the serene waters of tidal
creeks, here are some of our favourite
Tall Ships and traditional sailing
adventures to take part in this summer.
RECHARGE ON NATURE
For those wishing to “recharge on
nature”, The Coastal Exploration
Company, Norfolk have a small fleet
of traditional fishing boats from which
they explore the waters in and around
Norfolk. Their three boats – a whelk
boat, a crab boat and a mussel flat –
berth between four and eight people
and are available for a variety of
excursion types. An appreciation for the
environment and positive social change
underpins each of the explorations on
offer, whilst also engaging with the
history and wildlife of the local area.
Whether you decide to opt for a Salt
Marsh sail through protected tidal
creeks, embark upon a wild swimming
and foraging expedition, book a wellness
adventure, or enjoy an overnight sail
sleeping in hammocks underneath the
stars, you’re guaranteed to connect with
nature and encounter the wilderness of
the north Norfolk coast.
coastalexplorationcompany.co.uk
à
BritishTravelJournal.com 51
A SLICE OF BRITISH
PARADISE
Explore the UK’s largest archipelago
as part of the guest crew of a replica
Scillonian Pilot Cutter. Working Sail’s
hands-on, week-long sailing holidays
to the Isles of Scilly are perfect for those
looking to sail solo, or with friends,
and to gain some sailing miles. After
taking the 60-mile trip from Falmouth
to Scilly, prepare to meander amongst
the five inhabited islands and numerous
uninhabited islands, whilst soaking up
views of pristine white sandy beaches
and azure waters. There’s a sense of
remoteness here and a wide range of
wildlife to be enjoyed from a selection of
stunning anchorages. You can choose
to participate as much or as little as you
like in the crewing side of things, striking
the balance between both sailing and
relaxing.
workingsail.co.uk
FOR THE ADVENTURER
Sail your way from Wales to Ireland
on an impressive Tall Ship with Kraken
Travel (Cardiff to Dublin). Perfect for
those looking to spend a bit more time
under sail and to head out to the open
seas, this Cardiff to Dublin route includes
six nights aboard the STS Tenacious.
Regardless of whether you’re an
experienced sailor or a complete
novice, this trip provides you with the
opportunity to get your sea legs.
Participants can expect to join as part
of the crew, getting full, hands-on tall
ship sailing experience and taking part
in activities such as watch keeping and
going aloft. Expect to feel a sense of
escapism as you hit the open water and
soak up the Irish coastline, whilst getting
to know what it’s like to enter into two of
Britain’s vibrant capital cities by boat.
kraken.travel
FOR THE BEGINNER
Based in Portland Marina, Moonfleet
Adventure Sailing (Dorset) operates a
1930s tall ship originally built in Holland.
The ideal opportunity for families and
people of all ages to ‘dip their toe in the
water’, there are a range of daytime
experiences on offer, ranging from two
to six hours in length. All excursions
offer a chance to soak up the views of
Weymouth Bay and beyond. The longer
excursions make their way towards the
iconic Durdle Door for a picnic and a
more in depth exploration of the Jurassic
Coast, a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
moonfleetsailing.com
52 BritishTravelJournal.com
FOR THE WILDLIFE
ENTHUSIAST
Bessie Ellen (Scotland) is a vessel with a
colourful past. One of the last remaining
sailing cargo ketches, this historic sailing
ship traded during a time when Tall Ships
and rigged vessels were an everyday sight in
Britain’s ports and harbours. Now 116 years
old, Bessie Ellen is on the National Historic
Ships Register as an important vessel to
conserve. On offer are a series of voyages
of between three and seven days around
the British coast, with a fantastic selection
in both Scotland and Cornwall. Our
favourites are the Scottish wildlife tours,
where there’s a good chance of spotting red
deer, otters, golden eagles and red squirrels.
Plus, whales, seals and dolphins in the
water. Bessie Ellen adventures are known
to be great for the independent traveller as
much as for groups and couples.
bessie-ellen.com
FALMOUTH TALL SHIPS
REGATTA
Cornwall, 17 - 19th August 2021
The pinnacle of Tall Ship sailing, this
year’s annual Tall Ships Race starts in
Falmouth, Cornwall. Over 30 Tall Ships
from around the world are expected to
be anchored in Falmouth for three days
of festivities before racing to A Coruna
in Spain. The main attraction is the
Parade of Sail (19th August) before the
race start, which involves the Tall Ships,
along with hundreds of supporting
local boats and marine craft sailing in
company out of the harbour. Visitors
will be able to take tripper boats into
the Carrick Roads to view the ships up
close whilst they are anchored and there
will be a range of shoreside activities
including markets and music during the
course of their stay.
visitcornwall.com
BritishTravelJournal.com 53
IMAGE CHERHILL DOWNS © GREAT WEST WAY
54 BritishTravelJournal.com
WALKING
HOLIDAYS
There’s nothing better than getting outdoors on a guided
ramble of the great British countryside on foot - and with our diverse
range of scenic routes, trails and guides, it has never been easier.
From acres of glorious rural scenery, off-the-beaten track woodland
walks, to coastal paths with views out to sea, Britain offers a tranquil
escape for those dreaming of the great outdoors
Words | Emma O'Reilly
IT SEEMS WE’VE ALL fallen in love with walking over lockdown, but now
that we can roam further than just in our local area it’s time to start taking
note of our fantastic national walking routes. From the coastal charms
of the North Coast 500 in Scotland to the idyllic countryside and quaint
villages of the Great West Way in England, it’s time to lace up those boots
and make time to explore somewhere new. Take advantage of your increased
fitness levels with our selection of guided walks from across the British Isles,
guaranteed to put a renewed spring in your step!
à
BritishTravelJournal.com 55
Love and appreciate works of art
and beautiful things? Then you
might enjoy the new Renoir Walk in
Guernsey - an art trail following in
the footsteps of the famous French
impressionist, Pierre-Auguste Renoir
showcasing how the island inspired
some of the artist’s greatest works.
GUERNSEY
This Channel island has a dazzling coastline - from long
glittering beaches to secret rocky coves, Napoleonic
forts and Second World War bunkers. The new Islands
of Guernsey Way signposted trail can lead you round it
all, as well as the smaller sister islands of Herm, Sark,
Alderney and Lithou. The free app helps visitors find
their own way around, featuring a comprehensive
walking guide with maps and audio (a hard copy
guide will be available to buy for those who prefer old
school!). Each route will also detail timings, gradients
and difficulty levels, as well as those all-important
refreshment and loo stops. Dip in and out of the walks
as you desire or go all out and do the lot, totalling over
50 miles (plus the odd ferry hop). Find out more about
this and Renoir Walk from visitguernsey.com
British Travel Journal Top Tip: Take a small rucksack
and pack swimming cossies and towels for impromptu
sea swims.
THE ANTRIM COAST
The Antrim coastline packs in blockbuster sights –
from the Glens of Antrim to the Carrick-a-Rede bridge
and the spectacular hexagonal basalt columns of the
Giant’s Causeway. Exploring on foot is a good way
to savour them properly. The new Walking the Antrim
Way holiday from Headwater (headwater.com), with
three days of self-guided walking, enables you to see
them all, plus huge sandy shores, clifftops, castles and
forest trails in between. All route maps are provided,
as is a luggage forwarding service. Accommodation is
in small B&Bs and the adventure finishes in Bushmills,
where you can toast the end of your stay with a whiskey
tasting at the famous distillery. Daily departures run
until 3rd October.
British Travel Journal Top Tip: Game of Thrones fans
can visit Ballintoy Harbour, near the Carrick-a-Rede
Bridge – it appeared as the Iron Islands when Theon
first returns home on his ship.
IMAGE © NICK DESPRES/NITB PHOTOGRAPHIC LIBRARY/SHUTTERSTOCK_PATRYK KOSMIDER/VISITBRITAIN/MATTCANT
56 BritishTravelJournal.com
DORSET
“I somehow feel more English for having seen those
Dorset fields, surrounded by hedges basking in the
sun”. So said Julian in Enid Blyton’s Five on Finniston
Farm. The author holidayed for over 30 years in the
Studland area, and it inspired much of her writing.
The Carter Company (the-carter-company.com) have
based their Enid Blyton’s Dorset walking and cycling
tour around the places she loved. Set off on adventures
on foot or by bike - maps and lunch (don’t forget the
ginger beer) packed into your rucksack. Cycle trafficfree
forest trails to Corfe Castle, thought to be the
inspiration for Kirrin Castle, walk the Jurassic coastline
to picture perfect Lulworth Cove and Stair Hole, which
featured in the stories, and hop on a boat to Brownsea
Island, aka Whispering Island.
British Travel Journal Top Tip: If you have the
enthusiasm but not the energy of the Famous Five, an
electric bike is an option.
Pictured left-right: Saints Bay, Guernsey;
Carrick-a-Rede bridge and the Giant’s Causeway
on the Antrim coastline; Corfe Castle and
Durdle Door on Dorset's Jurassic Coast; hikers
walking the England Coast-toCoast trail.
ENGLAND COAST TO COAST
Experienced hiker? Then the 182-mile England
Coast-to-Coast trail could be your most exhilarating
challenge yet. This guided trip, from newly formed
Wilderness England (wildernessengland.com) from the
same team as Wildnerness Scotland, starts on the coast
at St Bees in Cumbria and finishes at Robin Hood’s
Bay in Yorkshire. In between, you’ll walk up hill and
down dale through no less than three National Parks
– the Lake District, the Yorkshire Dales and the North
York Moors. Expect eye popping scenery -and some
fascinating lessons in everything from medieval history
to local romantic poets like Wordsworth and Coleridge
from your expert guide.
You could do your research first looking online
at England's Coast who have just launched an
interactive map planner (englandscoast.com/en/
create-itinerary). Everything - food, snacks, water and
cosy accommodation- is included on this hike, so you
can concentrate on enjoying yourself. The trip runs on
several dates between now and mid-September.
British Travel Journal Top Tip: It’s good to do this
with a guide to avoid having to map read as it’s not the
best marked trail, although good progress is being made!
BritishTravelJournal.com 57
Follow the campaign hashtag
#WalkTasteExplore to join an English
walking adventure as part of a new
national campaign from sleeping
under the stars near the Pennine
Way to following in the footsteps of
Romans along Hadrian’s Wall Path
OUTER HEBRIDES
Five hours on the ferry from Scotland’s north east coast
carries you to the far flung Outer Hebrides. These
islands have their own special feel, with bleached white
beaches lapped by the wild Atlantic, a land dotted with
mountains and moorland and a gaelic culture all their
own. Macs Adventure's Outer Hebrides Island Hopscotch
(macsadventure.com) is an easy breezy ‘drive and hike’
self-guided trip around five of the them. Short daily
walks (maximum seven miles) leave time for feasting
on the heavenly local seafood and for sightseeing.
Visit an eagle observatory, a whisky distillery, the
showstopping beach of Luskentyre and prehistoric
ruins including the world-famous Standing Stones of
Callanish (older than Stonehenge) and the Bosta Iron
Age house. Even the ferry trips between the islands are
an adventure… This trip is available now until October.
British Travel Journal Top Tip: Treat yourself to a Harris
Tweed jacket, woven by hand on the island of Harris.
NORTH NORFOLK
The new Seascapes of North Norfolk itinerary from
Inntravel (inntravel.co.uk) uncovers this unique
coastline. The walks are self-guided and gentle
(maximum seven miles), with some circular routes,
meaning that you stay in just three excellent pubs and
hotels over the course of the six nights. When it comes
to scenery there’s plenty of variety - vast beaches and
dunes, marshland nature reserves, cute flint and brick
villages and historic country estates. The flatness of
the coastline means the skies (as well as sunrises and
sunsets) are always huge – don’t forget your camera.
A transfer is included from Kings Lynn station, which
means you can leave your car at home.
You might choose to extend your holiday by booking
a stay with Barefoot Retreats (barefootretreats.co.uk),
a holiday cottage rental agency with some of the finest
luxury holiday cottages (and self-catering holiday
homes) in North Norfolk.
British Travel Journal Top Tip: Take binoculars
to appreciate up close the huge variety of bird and
wildlife enroute.
IMAGE © GETTY IMAGES/ISTOCKPHOTO/SWENSTROOP/SHUTTERSTOCK/NICOLA-PULHAM
58 BritishTravelJournal.com
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Don't miss the new aerial walkway
opening at Aira Force, Cumbria
later this summer, to experience
its waterfall from a new dramatic
steel platform. “This innovation will
recreate the drama that Victorian
thrill-seekers sought here” says
Project Manger Charlotte Fuke.
WALK THE LAKE DISTRICT
The Borrowdale Valley makes a perfect base for
exploring the beautiful Northern Lake District. On
Explore’s (explore.co.uk) small group walking holiday
you’ll stay at a comfortable three-star hotel and stride
out on six days of spectacular walks. These begin with
Cat Bells, the perfect first day fell - not too arduous,
with just one steep but short scramble to the top.
The reward is 360-degree views over Derwentwater
and the surrounding fells. That should give an appetite
for further forays, including Haystacks (favourite of
Alfred Wainwright - author of the famous guides to the
fells – and where his ashes were scattered). Toughest
of the walks is a seven hour schlep up Scafell Pike,
England’s highest peak at 978 metres. It’s no Everest
but most walkers feel proud to have conquered it!
The walks run from April-October.
British Travel Journal Top Tip: Train hill walking
muscles on that StairMaster at the gym – or your stairs
at home will do.
GOWER COAST PATH
This wild part of the Welsh coastline is less well known
than Pembrokeshire, yet its magnificent beaches are
regularly voted amongst the best in the world. Celtic
Trails (celtictrailswalkingholidays.co.uk) invigorating
43-mile route can be covered in five or six days
(depending on preference) with stays at guesthouses
and B&Bs along the way and your luggage sent ahead
of you. Highlights include Three Cliffs Bay, with its
limestone cliffs and vast swathes of caramel coloured
sand and the giant curve of Rhossili Bay, which
includes the wreck of the Helvetia Viking ship on the
shore. The path snakes slightly inland in places, past
dunes and through marshland and forest. The Gower
Coast Path itinerary is available between March and
October.
British Travel Journal Top Tip: Keep your eyes peeled
for local wildlife, which could include kestrels, herons
and seals plus all sorts of birds and butterflies.
à
BritishTravelJournal.com 61
WALKING EVENTS IN 2021
–
MORAY WALKING AND
OUTDOOR FESTIVAL
11-22 June Walks in every corner of the
county, from Cairngorms to coastline
moraywalkoutdoorfest.co.uk
THE GREAT GLEN WAY
Take a highland fling following the route of the Caledonian Canal
from Scotland’s west coast at Fort William, to the east at Inverness
with HF Holidays (hfholidays.co.uk). It’s not all tow paths – on this
seven day guided walk you’ll follow forest trails and skim the shores
of Loch Lochy, Loch Oich and Loch Ness (from where, if the group
takes the high route, the views are sublime). You’ll see Neptune’s
Staircase, with its eight ‘climbing’ locks, enjoy views of Ben Nevis
and visit a floating pub. After skirting a river that feeds Loch Ness
you’ll see Nessie herself (just kidding – but please let us know if you
do!) Accommodation is in two hotels, both with indoor pools – great
for easing tired muscles after a day on your feet. The Great Glen Way
Guided Trail is from 18th-25th September.
British Travel Journal Top Tip: This is a ‘moderate’ level trip, so
only book if you are fit to cope with some ascents and six-seven
hours of walking per day.
THE COTSWOLDS
If just a long weekend of walks is appealing, Foot Trails’ (foottrails.
co.uk) Taste of the Cotswolds package should suit. You will be based
in an 18th century inn, celebrated for its excellent food, and head out
each day on a self-guided trail. The team tailor-make a trip to suit
your interests – and you can include rest days and change distances
if you prefer. A typical itinerary might include 7.5 to 10 miles of daily
walks, with a mix of villages and scenery, steering away from crowded
‘honeypot’ villages. Instead, discover quiet lanes, achingly pretty
cottages, tinkling streams and rivers, maybe even a Roman villa. After
a two to three hour morning walk, there’s time to enjoy a slap up pub
lunch before another couple of hours on foot.
British Travel Journal Top Tip: The Cotswolds is not just about the
villages. Check out stunning Cirencester, once the second biggest
city in Roman Britain.
ULTRA CHALLENGE – WALK
25, 50 or 100km to raise money for
your chosen charity, at events all over
England. Challenges in the next few
months include the Peak District,
Yorkshire, South West and Thames Path
ultrachallenge.com/the-events/
WHITE CLIFFS WALKING
FESTIVAL
26-31 August A choice of walks of
varying length each day over the coast
and downs in East Sussex
whitecliffswalkingfestival.org.uk
TREKFEST - THE BEACONS
18 September Choose from a 25
or 50km walk over stunning but
challenging terrain to raise money for
your favourite charity
trekfest.org.uk
MIGHTY HIKES MACMILLAN
Lots of walking marathons between
now and September in locations around
the UK. Participants pledge to raise a
minimum £250 through sponsorship.
mightyhikes.macmillan.org.uk
DARTMOOR WALKING FESTIVAL
29 August-5 September Around four
events a day, including ranger led walks,
archaeological visits and evening walks
and talks. The festival will raise money
for Devon Air Ambulance.
moorlandguides.co.uk
62 BritishTravelJournal.com
Iconic architecture, rich
heritage, exquisite cocktails
In the heart of Hampshire just 20 minutes from Winchester and the M4
Bombay Sapphire Distillery | Whitchurch | Hampshire
[email protected] | 01256 890090
BOOK YOUR GIN EXPERIENCE TODAY: BOMBAYSAPPHIRE.COM/DISTILLERY
Get 10% off your Discovery booking using the code: BTJ10 (until 31/12/21)
10 OF THE BEST
OUTDOOR
DIPS
Whether you prefer to do your laps in five-star
luxury, reconnect with nature in a stylish swimming
‘pond’ or soak up the skyline from a city rooftop,
here are our top outdoor pools for taking the
plunge this summer
Words | Sophie Farrah
à
1
THYME,
GLOUCESTERSHIRE
The swimming pool at Cotswolds
haven Thyme is tucked away in
a beautiful, honey stone walled
garden on the hotel’s 150-acre
estate. This secluded and serene
heated outdoor pool is surrounded
by nature and filled with water
drawn from the estate’s very own
underground spring. A unique
bio-filtration system means that no
chemicals are used whatsoever, so
you can enjoy a swim in water that
is pure enough to drink! Complete
the all-natural experience by
drying off in the sunshine on one of
the stylish sunbeds that surround
the pool or grab a botanical
cocktail from the new poolside bar.
thyme.co.uk
2
THE SCARLET, NORTH
CORNWALL
Whilst the outdoor pool
at North Cornwall’s eco hotel
The Scarlet may be on the chilly
side, it’s worth braving it for the
views. Fringed by granite rocks
and greenery, this picture-perfect
swimming spot overlooks the
beautiful beach of Mawgan Porth.
Cleansed by a living reed bed as
opposed to harsh chemicals, this
unheated natural ‘pond’ is usually
a bracing 22°C in the summer but
fear not - after an invigorating dip
you can warm up in the nearby
wood-fired hot tubs and outdoor
cedar wood sauna, both of which
boast more stunning sea views.
scarlethotel.co.uk
3
PORTAVADIE, LOCH
FYNE, ARGYLL
Perched on the shores of
a stunning sea loch, the
extraordinary spa at Portavadie
cost a cool £10 million, and it
shows. Built using glass, steel,
stone and neutral tones, this
serene, sprawling spa experience
boasts an indoor pool, outdoor spa
pools and a Scandinavian sauna.
The star of the show however is the
81sqm heated outdoor infinity pool
- said to be the largest in Scotland
- with breath-taking views across
Loch Fyne to the Isle of Arran. It’s
kept at a comfortable 33°C, so
whatever the Scottish weather may
bring, you’ll feel positively balmy.
portavadie.com
66 BritishTravelJournal.com
4
LODORE FALLS HOTEL
& SPA, CUMBRIA
Nestled in the beautiful Borrowdale
valley in the heart of the Lake District,
the luxurious spa at The Lodore Falls Hotel
makes the most of the stunning scenery
that surrounds it. From the cool,
contemporary 16m outdoor hydro pool,
complete with neck jets, underwater
loungers and an overflow hot tub, alfresco
swimmers can enjoy breath-taking views of
Derwentwater and Cat Bells mountains.
The nearby glass-fronted Finnish sauna
boasts more wonderful views and, if you’re
feeling brave, invigorating cold-drench
buckets (followed by hot showers) are
available on the open-air poolside terrace.
lakedistricthotels.net/lodorefalls
à
BritishTravelJournal.com 67
5
THE HEADLAND HOTEL,
NEWQUAY, CORNWALL
The Headland Hotel’s new and
already award-winning £10
million Aqua Club has wow factor
at every turn. Enjoy the sunset
from the outdoor spa pool or do
a few laps in the larger, deeper
pool that encircles it; either way,
ingenious design makes the most
of the spectacular views over
Fistral Beach whilst also sheltering
swimmers from the wind.
Elsewhere, there’s a
spacious outdoor vitality pool
with a stunning Cornish granite
menhir (standing stone) at its
centre - a perfect place for soaking
tired muscles after a day exploring
the nearby coastal path.
headlandhotel.co.uk
6
ST BRIDES SPA HOTEL,
PEMBROKESHIRE
On a clifftop overlooking the
seaside village of Saundersfoot,
the award-winning spa at St Brides
boasts a heated, infinity-style
spa pool, with sweeping views
of the harbour and the stunning
Pembrokeshire coastline beyond.
With submerged loungers and a
hydrotherapy fountain, this bijou
pool is less for strenuous laps and
more for relaxing, whilst taking in
the fresh sea air and magnificent
views. It contains natural salt
instead of chemicals, and is heated
to a toasty 32-34°C.
stbridesspahotel.com
7
SOUTH LODGE HOTEL
& SPA, WEST SUSSEX
The beautiful, 18m outdoor
swimming pool at the luxurious
South Lodge Hotel & Spa may be
described as ‘wild’, but the good
news is that it’s heated. Edged
with swaying reeds and pretty
flowers, this undulating and ohso
inviting wild swimming ‘pond’
is surrounded by stylish decking,
parasols and comfy sunbeds to curl
up on after your dip. Elsewhere,
there’s a state-of-the-art spa
to explore, and more open-air
bathing on offer at the small but
sleek outdoor hydrotherapy pool.
exclusive.co.uk/south-lodge
à
BritishTravelJournal.com 69
8
KING STREET TOWNHOUSE,
MANCHESTER
In the summer months, city-centre hotels
with outdoor pools are a real treat. What
better way to shake off the sticky urban
heat than with a refreshing open-air dip,
sky high? The sleek, slate-grey infinity
spa pool at King Street Townhouse
may be small, but it is perfectly formed.
Located on the hotel's seventh floor, the
pool has a glass roof but is completely
open to the elements on one side,
offering incredible views across the city’s
skyline, dotted with pointy spires, and
of the iconic clock tower of Manchester
Town Hall. Sightseeing from a swimming
pool? Why ever not?
eclectichotels.co.uk
9
BURGH ISLAND HOTEL,
SOUTH DEVON
Positioned on its own private
island, it seems only fitting that
the completely unique Burgh
Island Hotel would offer a suitably
extraordinary outdoor swimming
experience. The hotel’s Mermaid
Pool is a breath-taking natural
seawater bathing pool, reminiscent
of a mythical lagoon. Secured by a
historic sluice gate and surrounded
by rocks for utter privacy, it’s worth
braving the unheated water for this
totally unique swim. Alternatively,
there’s also a rowing boat available
for those who would prefer to
remain dry - just watch out for the
mermaids…
burghisland.com
10
CLIVEDEN HOUSE,
BERKSHIRE
Very few swimming pools can
claim to be the origin of a worldfamous
political scandal, but
this one most certainly can. The
legendary ‘Profumo pool’ at
luxurious country retreat Cliveden
House is where John Profumo
first laid eyes on Christine Keeler,
and their infamous affair began.
Surrounded by rows of cream
sunbeds, neat topiary and swaying
lavender, this picturesque pool
sits in the hotel’s elegant walled
garden and is the last remaining
listed outdoor pool in England.
Admire the hotel’s stunning
neoclassical architecture whilst
doing a few lengths, before
unwinding in one of the outdoor
hot tubs.
clivedenhouse.co.uk
70 BritishTravelJournal.com
Pictured above then clockwise: Thames Lido,
Reading; Tinside Pool, Plymouth; Bristol Lido,
Bristol; Jubilee Pool, Penzance and swimmer
at Bristol Lido, Bristol
LOVELY LIDOS
–
Our love for lidos emerged in the 1930s when outdoor swimming first became popular
in the UK, and now these sociable swimming spots are making a comeback. Today,
there are more than 100 to discover, with more renovation projects in the pipeline.
Here’s where to make a splash this summer!
Thames Lido, Reading: After more than three years of careful restoration, this beautiful,
historic lido re-opened its doors in 2017. Located by the river Thames in Reading, the
water temperature at this urban retreat is heated all year round to between 24-26°C.
Spa treatments are available on-site, as well as a stylish poolside restaurant with a
Mediterranean menu.
thameslido.com
Bristol Lido, Bristol: Tucked away in the heart of Clifton, this historic lido is in fact a
restored Victorian swimming pool and it oozes stylish serenity. It’s kept at a toasty 24°C
and is surrounded on all sides by beautifully designed buildings that include an awardwinning
restaurant and a poolside tapas bar, perfect for a post-swim sangria.
lidobristol.com
Tinside Pool, Plymouth: Built in 1935, beautiful Tinside Pool is an internationally
acclaimed Art Deco style seaside wonder. Open only during the summer months, this
stunning semi-circular saltwater pool is 50m in diameter and is both family friendly and
fully accessible. Dry off on the large sunbathing terrace; the sea views are unbeatable.
everyoneactive.com/centre/tinside-lido
Jubilee Pool, Penzance: Another Art Deco gem is the recently restored Jubilee Pool on the
Cornish coast. It is the country’s largest seawater lido and there are three pools to choose
from. The popular geothermal pool is the first of its kind in the UK, where you can bathe in
natural salt water heated to between 30-35°C by the lido’s very own geothermal well.
jubileepool.co.uk
BritishTravelJournal.com 71
Pictured:
Laid-back
Breakfast by
Dine in the
Lakes. Inset
images: One
Fine Dine
chef and
One Fine
Dine
gourmet
dishes
72 BritishTravelJournal.com
CHEF'S TABLE
Chantal Borciani rounds up the best gourmet
at-home dining options from Michelin-chef catering to
curated menus delivered direct to your door
HOLIDAYS ARE ALL about
relaxing and enjoying
your surroundings and
now more than ever the
world of private dining and high-end
restaurant meals
delivered right to
your luxury rental
doorstep means
staycationers can
take all the work
out of mealtimes.
Whether you want
a top chef to come
and cook for you
or a traditional
afternoon tea
delivery, some
of Britain’s top
producers are on
hand to ensure you spend less time in
the kitchen and more time enjoying
your vacation…
ONE FINE DINE
From the finest gourmet boxes you heat
and serve at home to fully chef-catered
private dining, One Fine Dine is the byword
in exclusive gastronomy.
One Fine Dine offers superseasonal
gourmet menu boxes
delivered to your doorstep and
now its professionally trained
fine-dining chefs can take all
the work off your hands and
cater your entire meal. The
company has just announced
a partnership with five-star
UK property rental company
Bloomsbury Estates, so
guests at the luxury lodgings
can enjoy bespoke dining
packages from curated menus, fully
catered dinner parties, luncheons or simply a
wonderful family meal – all made to Michelin
restaurant quality. From £65 per person.
onefinedine.com
à
BritishTravelJournal.com 73
JACK & SCOTT’S PRIVATE
DINING SERVICE
The UK’s most foodie village now
adds another string to its bow – Bray
Cottages has teamed up with Jack
Blumenthal (son of Heston) and
Scott Perkins to offer delicious private
dining experiences. Located in the
heart of Bray-on-Thames, guests at
the six luxurious, quintessentially
British cottages can book the services
of Jack and Scott to create truly
memorable dining experiences at
home from personalised menus to
in-chef dining and virtual cooking
classes. Jack Blumenthal and Scott
Perkins are both Michelin trained
chefs – the pair have worked across
some of the UK’s finest restaurants
including The Fat Duck, The Hand
& Flowers, L’Ortolan and Petrus.
Round off your staycation in Bray
with a visit to one of the village’s
famous eateries such as the The Fat
Duck or Alain Roux’s The Waterside
Inn, which both boast three Michelin
stars. Alternatively, for those not
making a pilgrimage to the pretty
village of Bray, Jack & Scott’s private
dining experiences are also available
nationwide.
jackandscott.com
NORTHCOTE AT HOME
Lisa Goodwin-Allen, executive chef
of Northcote Hotel and Michelin-star
restaurant in Lancashire’s picturesque
Ribble Valley has introduced Northcote
at Home Gourmet boxes – bringing
restaurant quality dining to your home.
Seasonally inspired and boasting
four courses, the Gourmet Boxes
can be delivered nationwide and are
a fantastic foodie journey of British
produce. For the ultimate staycation
surprise, you can also have Northcote’s
Michelin-star trained chefs cater for
your private dinner party, afternoon
tea or lunch, at your home or holiday
74 BritishTravelJournal.com
Pictured leftright:
Dish
from One Fine
Dine; Stein
at Home;
Cookaway
Miso Tofu
Steaks; from
Bistrot at
Home; and
fresh seafood
from
Harbour at
Home
cottage, complete with waiter
service and sommelier, should you
wish. From £125 for two people.
northcote.com/at-home/
gourmet-boxes
AFTERNOON TEA TO GO
Elite Hotels is offering a luxurious
Takeaway Afternoon Tea at two
of its south of England properties;
Luton Hoo Hotel, Golf & Spa in
Bedfordshire and Ashdown Park
Hotel and Country Club. An ideal
holiday treat or tasty celebration
for a birthday or anniversary, the
exquisite afternoon-tea boxes
include freshly made sandwiches,
fluffy scones with clotted cream
and strawberry preserve, and
beautiful handmade patisserie
such as matcha opera cake and
hazelnut praline cream éclair,
complemented by fine teas. From
£25 for two people.
elitehotels.co.uk
STEIN'S AT HOME & BEACH
RETREATS
During the past year, Rick Stein
has been ever-successful in
providing a taste of his coastal
menus through his Stein’s At Home
Boxes – available nationwide. Now
Stein’s At Home has partnered with
Luxury Cottages, the staycation
specialist offering 80 stunning
destinations around the UK,
enabling guests to pre-order a
Stein’s At Home delivery box at a
discounted rate. Luxury Cottage’s
Guest Services team is also on
hand to book and arrange delivery,
so you can simply arrive and enjoy!
Feast on a weekend breakfast box,
fresh fish box, Stein’s at Home
lobster or the ultimate foodie
weekend box. From £35 for two.
rickstein.com/steins-at-home
à
BritishTravelJournal.com 75
BIRTELLI’S
Independent pizzeria, Birtelli's, has
teamed up with holiday rental company,
Crabtree & Crabtree, to offer its artisan
make-your-own-pizza kits – a fun twist
on pizza night for your holiday. The
kits comprise ingredients sourced by
Michelin Star Executive Chef Paul Foster
and provide the perfect night-in meal
with no hassle. The partnership is part of
Crabtree & Crabtree's newly launched
Doorstep Delivery service, which gives
guests staying at their picturesque
abodes discounts with home-dining
specialists such at Birtelli’s artisan
pizza, Pasta Evangelists pasta kits and
Aubrey’s craft butchery. Crabtree &
Crabtree also have a team of chefs who
can cater for private dining at any of
their beautiful settings. From £16.99.
birtellis.co.uk/pizza-kits
COOKAWAY
Dine like kings on menus dreamt up
by MasterChef finalists and longstanding
chefs with flavour-packed
recipe boxes from The Cookaway.
The team has partnered with luxury
villa company Oliver's Travels
enabling guests to pre-order a recipe
box for their UK and Irish holidays.
Choose from recipe boxes created
by former MasterChef finalist Sara
Danesin, Kyoto-born chef and
cookbook author Reiko Hashimoto,
The Cookaway founder Nidhi Verma
and former MasterChef finalist Jack
Lucas to name but a few. Options
available from just £16 for 2 people.
thecookaway.com
HARBOUR AT HOME
Overlooking the mesmeric sands of
Elie Beach in the picturesque East Neuk
of Fife in Scotland Harbour at Home
offers boat-fresh lobster, langoustine,
crab and more to diners around the
British Isles. Chef patron, Amy Elles,
has created a series of luxury Scottish
seafood and fish hampers with produce
from small boats landing at Pittenweem
76 BritishTravelJournal.com
Pictured
above-right:
Garden
Gathering
from Dine in
the Lakes;
One Fine
Dine; and
dishes from
Bistrot
at Home
harbour, organic heritage breed beef from
Butchery at Bowhouse and salads from East
Neuk Market Garden. The hampers contain
personal touches such as Elie stones from
the beach for breaking open your lobster,
bibs, Harbour Café placemats and gorgeous
illustrations from artisan designer, Edinburgh
Letters. Boxes from £25.
theharbourcafe.co.uk
BISTROT AT HOME
The 25-year-old independent French
restaurant group Bistrot Pierre is adding
three new boxes to its range of high-end
at-home dining boxes. Ideal for those
staying out of town the new boxes include
the Celebration, Steak and Breakfast boxes.
From £35.
bistrotathome.co.uk
44 FOODS
Launched at the start of the pandemic,
with national delivery, 44 Foods offers all
the quality and freshness of a farm shop
direct to your door. From producer to plate,
44 Foods is a collective of farmers and
food producers who are passionate about
ethically produced, fairly priced, sustainable
food. Together, they supply fruit and veg,
meat and dairy, and larder essentials to your
home or holiday cottage – they are also the
company behind the Ultimate Staycation
Breakfast featured in our Travel News page
13. Meals for two from £20.50.
44foods.com
DINE IN THE LAKES
If you’re travelling to the incredible hills,
valleys and waterways of the Lake District, it’s
imperative to sample the region’s incredible
dining. Dine in the Lakes is a new gourmet
food delivery service providing luxury food
boxes from crème de la crème of Lake District
producers, delivered direct to your door. The
gourmet purveyor has teamed up with luxury
holiday home company Lakeland Retreats
meaning guests can have a breakfast, brunch
or a garden picnic package awaiting their
arrival. Prices from £35.
dineinthelakes.co.uk
BritishTravelJournal.com 77
48 HOURS STAYING AT...
CARY
ARMS
HOTEL & SPA
With rugged sandstone cliffs and azure-blue waters,
the coastal scenery surrounding Cary Arms is beautiful
enough to rival towns in the Mediterranean. Jessica Way
spends 48 unforgettable hours with her family staying in
luxury and exploring Babbacombe...
Words | Jessica Way
UNSPOILT VILLAGES, RUGGED MOORLAND and golden beaches -
there are many reasons to visit South Devon, though sitting proudly in
the beautiful Babbacombe Bay, there’s an award winning “Inn on the
Beach” - making the destination yet more inviting, irresistible perhaps.
Few hotels on our British coastline have a setting as spectacular as Cary
Arms & Spa, and from stepping foot inside, the views, character and
warmth induce an alluring sense of tranquillity.
Built in the late 1800s, the Torquay inn is steeped in history and has hosted Admiral Lord
Nelson, King Edward VII and Sir Winston Churchill. There are coastal-chic memorabilia
lining the walls of the cosy alcoves and hidden corners with some intriguing finds – one of
which is an original hand-written thank you letter from Winston's secretary in the 1940’s to
the then owners, Mr and Mrs Cox, expressing how they “thoroughly enjoyed their Cary Arms
Babbacombe Bay lobsters over dinner with Pol Roger champagne”.
à
BritishTravelJournal.com 79
Pictured left-right: Cary Arms Hotel & Spa; Beach
Huts at Cary Arms; Cove Cottage cosy sitting room
and stylish kitchen; views from Babbacombe Bay;
Jessica looking out over Anstey’s Cove
With 10 elegant sea-facing rooms and suites at the inn,
seven restored cottages, each with their own private gardens
and outdoor space, and eight brilliantly quirky deluxe beach
huts and beach suites, it is perfect for families – and easy to
socially-distance too. We stayed in Cove Cottage, a charming
characterful property with more than enough space for the four of
us (my husband and two daughters), and wonderful terraces from
which to admire the breath-taking sea views.
There was a fusion of romantic Tudor in the architecture with
décor combining traditional seaside with a Mediterranean twist.
Modern luxuries were found throughout with the homeliest of
colourful coastal kitchens, complete with red Aga, blue tongue
and grove, and a green statement leather armchair. Think The
White Company toiletries, patchwork quilts, stylish cushions,
Persian rugs and logs piled up high by the open fire. From the
kitchen a back door lead straight out onto the barbeque patio
area (large enough to have invited the neighbours!) leading
down to the beautifully landscaped lawn with rows of inviting sun
loungers.
Cary Arms was named after The Cary family, who have been a
part of Torquay’s history since 1662 when Sir George Cary moved
into Torre Abbey. Today a museum and well worth a visit, the
monument itself dates back to 1196 and is set within 18 acres of
garden and parkland. The Cary family owned much of the land at
Cockington, St Marychurch and Babbacombe.
The hotel is privately owned and managed by multi-millionaire
entrepreneur Peter de Savary, or PdeS (as he is known) and wife
Lana, the inspiration behind some of the finest clubs and resorts
around the world including the St James’ Clubs, The Carnegie
Club at Skibo Castle in Scotland, and Bovey Castle in Dartmoor
National Park.
Acquired in 2006, they re-opened the popular seaside inn
following a no-expenses-spared renovation in 2010 launching as
a luxurious boutique retreat, with bedrooms, food and activities
to rival any of the finest hotels in the country. Babbacombe Bay
has always been one of Torbay’s quietest and least spoilt beaches,
and as a guest at the hotel gazing at idyllic views, from sunrise to
sunset, is a wonderful way to spend a few days.
80 BritishTravelJournal.com
“
It opens up onto a grassy
path between bushes of gorse,
blackthorn and bramble leading
onto the Downs, with a vast open
space and plenty of benches from
which to enjoy the scenery.
”
DAY ONE
With the South West Coast Path just yards away from Cary Arms
and Cove Cottage doorstep it felt natural to begin the day with a
coastal walk. So, following a hearty breakfast we decided to take
the 1.5 mile coastal route to Kents Cavern, passing Long Quarry
Point and Anstey’s Cove. Self-guided exploration is at its best
when you have the handy yellow arrows to follow, and although
there were quite a few steps along the windy path, the incredible
views more than rewarded you for your effort.
The woodland areas were stunning, lined with shade-loving
plants from butterbur plants with horseshoe-shaped leaves to
harts tongue ferns. Then it opens up onto a grassy path between
bushes of gorse, blackthorn and bramble leading onto the Downs,
with a vast open space and plenty of benches from which to enjoy
the scenery. You can look down on the beautiful bays from here
and there is access to Redgate Beach which we may have visited
for a swim if the weather had have been better. There is also an
interesting pavilion which proved useful to us during a sudden rain
shower!
At the far end of the Downs, the path disappears into the trees
again and from this small path you can see down into Anstey’s
Cove, one of Agatha Christie’s favourite haunts. Also, on the left
of the path, you may be interested in a partially-hollow ash tree
– a natural work of art. It is not long before you see signs to Kents
Cavern, where you can enjoy a pre-historic experience on a tour
into the limestone cave – as Britain’s “oldest home”. This popular
attraction is also one of the key sites to justify the English Riviera
(the name given to the nine-mile stretch of coast between Torquay
and Brixham) UNESCO Global Geopark status, one of only 7 in
the entire UK. Exploring the extensive labyrinth of caverns and
spectacular natural formations is fascinating - the most significant
artefact is a 38,000 year old human jawbone; Europe’s oldest
human fossil. I would take a warm jacket as it can be quite chilly
down in the caves - the coffee and cake was welcomed afterwards
(hot meals also available).
From Kents Cavern we took a slight detour, joining the coastal
path a little further along at the brilliantly named, Brandy Cove,
from which I’m sure there will have been a few smugglers’ tales!
You can see Hope’s Nose from here, an odd-shaped piece of land
looking out over the sea in all directions. Back towards Cary Arms,
another interesting peninsular, Long Quarry Point with its horns
of different sizes looks like the nose of a rhino!
The path tucks close in under a limestone cliff, passing Anstey’s
Cove. Make your way down the steep hill for the fabulous beach
à
BritishTravelJournal.com 81
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STYLE
EDITS
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Must haves
Jewellery Travel Case,
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BritishTravelJournal.com 83
“
All the senses are engaged by
smooth and enchanting notes of
frangipani blossom, the sound of
the surf, and the gentle rocking of
the body in time with the waves, the
ultimate feeling of relaxation and
total escape.
”
café selling paninis, baked potatoes, sandwiches and burgers.
Once back at Cary Arms we enjoyed a delicious alfresco lunch
of Lyme Bay lobster and line caught seafood on the sun garden
terraces, while watching the kayakers and scuba-divers enjoying
themselves in the blue waters below. The sun came out and
amidst the glorious scenery I couldn’t agree more in that moment
as one of the friendly waiters described it as surely one of the most
romantic spots in the British Isles. Inside, big windows show off
views across the bay. Portland Bill, fifty miles away, is visible on
clear days.
By the late-afternoon I was ready for some more seaside
therapy at the hotel spa. This came in the form of pouches of
hot sand during an incredible Polynesian-inspired massage.
All the senses are engaged by smooth and enchanting notes
of frangipani blossom, the sound of the surf, and the gentle
rocking of the body in time with the waves, the ultimate feeling
of relaxation and total escape. The waterfall hydrotherapy pool
is equally as impressive, with an innovative floor-ceiling glazing
framing the views out to the ocean. The spa also has a sunbathing
terrace decorated with exclusive American Art illustrations from
Peter de Savary’s own private collection.
Once refreshed back at the cottage it was time to head
out for dinner – the best of both worlds. It is just a short stroll
to the charmingly restored historic inn, still brimming with
the charm and character from when it was built in the 1880s.
Beamed ceilings, original stone walls, planked floors, books and
boardgames. A crackling log fire for cooler evenings - the informal
mood is achieved with effortless style.
For those who enjoy a proper pint, Otter Ale and Bays are
just two of the highlights, and there is an impressive selection on
the wine list, with a few local gems to include; Devon’s Harpham
Pinot Noir & Précoce, Hampshire’s Nyetimber, Devon’s Sandford
Orchards Ice Cider, as well as Plymouth and Salcombe gin. I
opted for their Cary Arms signature cocktail - a blend of Crème de
Violette, Malibu, coconut water, lime juice and almond garnished
with a Viola flower.
In addition to the fabulous local food, liquid refreshments
and warm atmosphere, an evening meal at Cary Arms is made
even more special by the quirky alcoves providing the perfect
cubbyholes for private dining – with views.
84 BritishTravelJournal.com
There’s the Captains Table, seating six, the Pod, seating four,
or the Wheel House, where we sat, with panoramic sea views
enclosed by original stone walls.
Head Chef is Steve Poyner, a Devon local, born in Torquay,
he joined the kitchen of Cary Arms following the reopening after
Peter and Lana de Savary’s extensive refurbishment in 2009. In
2010 he went to work at de Savary’s Oxfordshire hotel, The Old
Swan and Minster Mill, where his skill and enthusiasm to learn
led to his promotion to Chef de Partie after only eight months.
Four years later and with much ignited passion and experience
under his belt, Steve chose to return to his roots back at the Cary
Arms & Spa as Sous Chef. Since 2014 he’s been working with a
talented and close-knit kitchen team and has been instrumental
in the philosophy and success of the restaurant – from their use of
the finest local ingredients to their AA rosette. At only 30 he’s an
inspiring young talent.
With such a fantastic range of Devon fish, seafood and farm
produce, Steve and his team do not need to look far to find
great ingredients. From perfectly hung steaks to the freshest
local shellfish, their menu changes frequently according to what
ingredients are available locally and in season. For me, the 'catch
of the day' was the obvious choice, caught from Brixham less than
12 miles away – this is a Devon, sea-to-fork dining experience at
its finest. They describe their dining as simply ‘gastro food cooked
simply’ but it feels more special than that to me. However, the
unpretentious friendly approach to their fantastic service is hugely
welcomed and relaxing, especially when making the most of time
together as a family. It was the perfect ending to a wonderful day.
DAY TWO
Following a fabulous night's sleep (must be all that fresh coastal
sea-air) and another leisurely breakfast we decided we wanted
to explore Babbacombe a little more before heading home. From
the jetty in front of Cary Arms it is easy to spot the Babbacombe
Cliff Railway adjoined to the red sandstone cliff – on the shore
of Oddicombe Beach, and so we could see our first stop and the
route we needed to take. In the opposite direction of the morning
before we headed off, picnic in hand, for our second adventure.
Taking the wooden catwalk to the path under the limestone cliff
there becomes a choice to follow the coast path to Babbacombe
(signposted off to the left), or to continue along the beach route
(signposted right to Petit Tor). We wanted to experience the Cliff
Railway and decided the best route would be to take it up and
walk down rather than the other way round – so continued until we
reached Oddicombe Beach. From this path there are fine views on a
clear day across to Sidmouth and even as far as Portland Bill.
A waterfall cascades down the cliff on our left and huge
Pictured opposite page: The glass faceted sea-facing
spa; the Captains Table; and alfresco dining, all at Cary
Arms Hotel & Spa. Pictured below: The Babbacombe
Cliff Railway
boulders keep us dry as the gentle waves brake to our right.
The Babbacombe Cliff Railway line runs every day, with a
closure period in winter for maintenance. Dating back to 1926,
it has shuttled holiday makers to and from Oddicombe Beach
for over 90 years! 2 parallel tracks, each over 700 feet long, take
you on a carriage ride tour up (or down) the cliff – and there is
an informative Visitor Centre on the beach. There is also the
highly recommended Three Degrees West café, bar and bistro,
perfect for coffee, cakes or a spot of tapas. At the top station
there are fine views over Lyme Bay and it is only a short walk to
Babbacombe Model Village – another must visit on our list, and
one of Torquay’s most famous attractions.
This miniature world is quite a spectacle! You can get lost in
admiring the details and impressive creativity at every twist and
turn. As seen on BBC’s comedy drama 'Don't Forget the Driver',
and the ‘One Show’, there are 4 acres of award-winning gardens
showcasing hundreds of model scenes, vehicles & people. This
is an evolving attraction too, Mike Rhodes, General Manager,
who has worked previously at Walt Disney World, has in the
last few years started using 3D printing to create some of the
smaller figures and details such as lampposts. We visited during
the day – but during the summer you can also visit in the evening
and experience the creation of illuminations – with every car,
van, lorry, street lamp and model being carefully wired to create
authentic lighting as you would see in any real street scene.
The walk back to Cary Arms took us on a bracing route
à
BritishTravelJournal.com 85
Pictured left-right: Babbacombe
Model Village, Cary Arms Hotel &
Spa and fun on the rocks.
“
This miniature world is quite
a spectacle! You can get lost in
admiring the details and impressive
creativity at every twist and turn.
”
along Babbacombe Downs - the highest cliff top promenade
in England. From here you can not only take in the spectacular
coastline, but also spot seabirds, seals and even dolphins.
For adrenaline junkies there is plenty to challenge you with
coasteering, sailing, scuba diving and hiking.
If you are a keen sailor, Babbacombe makes a convenient
departure point for a Lyme Bay crossing: to Portland Bill, from
Devon Riviera to Jurassic Coast.
The charming and characterful village of Babbacombe is
quite enchanting with its colourful promenade and picturesque
buildings. There are also plenty of independent shops,
boutiques, bars, restaurants and cosy tearooms. We passed
Babbacombe Theatre - host to many fantastic performances
throughout the year, one of the most successful theatres of
its size in the country. We followed the woodland path back
down to Cary Arms as it was sadly time to go home. My only
regret was not staying longer, with so many more coastal and
woodland walks on our doorstep, and such a treasure trove of
hidden coves and tranquil settings, we could have easily stayed
for a week discovering something new every day. From Cary
Arms you could even walk all the way along the South West
Coast Path to Torquay – and Torbay, at the very heart of the
English Riviera. Just one reason of many to plan a return!
Stay at Cove Cottage mid-season to higher season from
£450-£650 per night, caryarms.co.uk
86 BritishTravelJournal.com
TRAVEL BY TRAIN
THIS SUMMER
Whether it’s National Parks, coastal retreats or city escapes,
book now at GWR.com, on our app, or at a station.
HEALTH
BREAKS
Relax, get fit, reboot body and mind and be
pampered…all is possible, and at a social
distance, on these revitalising, life-affirming
breaks around the British Isles
Words | Emma O'Reilly
FIND YOUR BEST
BODY IN KENT
Peace, privacy, luxury… The Fold is a beautiful
new shepherds hut in the Weald of Kent. Actually,
it’s two shepherds huts, joined in the middle. This
means room for a full spec kitchen, shower room
and loo, a king-sized bed, sofa and swanky copper
bath plus a wood burner and back up heating for
year-round cosiness.
The Fold sits in its own field, where your only
company will be the birds (including the resident
barn owl), the bees and the butterflies. While
you’re here, have a full body check! Co-owner
John is an ex Harley Street ‘super coach’ and
corrective exercise specialist and offers everything
from Fit2Go Body Screening programmes, which
identify body areas that could be prone to injury,
right up to detailed assessments for those with
existing back and joint injuries.
With each you will receive targeted training
programmes to take home. Pilates in the onsite
studio and Nordic Walking lessons in the
surrounding countryside are also possible.
Prices from £130 per night, room only, although chefcooked
meals can be delivered at extra charge. ◆
airbnb.com/h/shepherds-hut-kent
88 BritishTravelJournal.com
FEEL TWICE AS NICE
IN NORTH YORKSHIRE
Yoga and climbing may not, at first glance,
have very much in common. Yet both are about
connections, with ourselves and our universe,
and each requires a discipline of both body and
mind. On two-night Yoga and Climbing breaks
in North Yorkshire, the days are a combination
of energising and relaxing yoga plus climbing
instruction at a chosen crag (depending on
ability) in the North York Moors. Then it’s back
to Yoga & Spice’s base near Whitby for relaxed
evenings with vegan and vegetarian dinners
followed by satisfying slumbers in comfortable
ensuite cabins. These breaks work really well for
a family or group of friends (4-6 people) wanting
a fun activity break away together. No climbing
experience is needed but you do need to be
reasonably fit to take part. Prices from £450 per
person in a shared room or £575 in a single room,
to include yoga, two days climbing, meals and
two/three nights accommodation. ◆
yogandspice.com/stay/
DIVE RIGHT IN
THE NORTHERN ISLES
OF SCOTLAND
We might not think of the UK as a Scuba diving
destination but it can actually be a great place
to start discovering our underwater world. You
can do a full PADI diving course but why not dip a
toe in the water, so to speak, and learn the basics
on a PADI Discover Scuba Diving (sometimes
called Try Dive) course. That way, you can find
out if you like it before splashing out on a more
expensive diving holiday abroad. The courses
take place in more than 200 centres around the
UK, often in swimming pools but sometimes in
the sea, too, and can be completed in just one
day. For example, you could stay at Cantick Head
Lighthouse Cottage (sleeps four) which has an
incredible location on the edge of a cliff in the
Orkney Islands, and then do a Try Dive at Scapa
Flow, famous for its shipwrecks.
Dive prices vary. Guided shore diving in Orkney
costs £170 per person, and prices at Cantick Head
Lighthouse Cottage start from £120 per night. ◆
krakendiving.co.uk; padi.com;
hostunusual.com
à
BritishTravelJournal.com 89
IMAGE © JOEL MCDERMOTT
HEALING WITH HORSES
IN EXMOOR
Well we’ve heard of horse whispering. But do we ever stop
to think about the positive effect that horses could have on
us? At Heale Farm, owners Judith and Dean run two-day
(one-night) Heale Horses & Nature Retreats, designed to
help those with too much stress, anxiety or trauma in their
lives. Guests are invited to go out walking and talking in the
Exmoor wilderness with Judith and her two gentle horses,
Shalindra and Roger. Judith is an NLP (Neuro Linguistic
Programming) Master Practitioner and uses this method of
coaching, alongside the soothing power of the horses and
surrounding nature, to help people think in more useful and
positive ways. As well as two sessions with the horses, the
retreat includes two breathing and mindfulness sessions
and meals in Judith and Dean’s farmhouse kitchen.
Guests stay in one of three beautiful cottages on site.
Prices from £250 per person, all-inclusive. ◆
healefarm.co.uk
MAKING WAVES IN
THE ISLE OF MAN
Whilst the TT may be one of the most wellknown
events in the Isle of Man calendar, their
shores are also home to a range of activities
to get your blood pumping. Feel elated as you
whiz down the zip-lines after navigating one of
the highest rope course in the UK at Ape Mann
Adventure Park, or, for an experience you will
never forget, try coasteering with Adventurous
Experiences in Peel. Find your inner child
wanderlust as you explore caves, scramble
over boulders and take courageous leaps off
the rocks, with the backdrop of Peel Castle.
Treat yourself afterwards to a locally-made
Davisons ice cream as you stroll through the
pretty seaside town. The Isle of Man, with its
unspoilt coastline, hidden coves and craggy
cliffs is perfect for water sports, but how ever
you choose to spend your time on this stunning
Manx island there’s never a dull moment!
Coasteering is priced £45 per person. ◆
adventurousexperiences.com /
visitisleofman.com
90 BritishTravelJournal.com
RELAX, RESET, REWILD…
IN CORNWALL
That’s the motto of Thera-Sea, who run breaks in Cornwall, on
the banks of the River Fal. The first clue that this is a get-awayfrom-it-all
type of holiday comes when you arrive – access
is only via hiking or boating. An old woodsman’s cottage is
on the banks of the River Fal and surrounded by woodland –
guests stays in the cottage or other buildings dotted around,
like The Treehouse and The Potting Shed. The goal during
your two-night stay is to inspire you to achieve goals and
manage stress. Founder Katy Griffin trained as a mental
health nurse and runs inspiring self-development workshops
alongside off-grid activities. There’s wild swimming and torch
lit boat trips along the river plus star gazing and huddling
around the fire pit to chat and watch the chef prepare dinner.
Plenty of time is given also to just lie round in a hammock.
The course is available on selected dates from now until November.
Prices from £315 per person, all-inclusive. ◆
thera-sea.co.uk
à
BritishTravelJournal.com 91
REST AND DIGEST IN
WORCESTERSHIRE
Ancient Ayurvedic texts claim that many illnesses,
both physical and mental, stem from poor
digestion. Modern science is catching up, with a
growing realisation that we really are what we
eat. The five-night Healthy Gut Retreat, at The
Clover Mill in Worcestershire, aims to help guests
re-set their biome with a combination of pre- and
pro-biotic food and drinks, yoga and yoga-nidra,
meditation, massage and talks. Guests stay in
beautiful, peaceful eco lodges overlooking a lake,
which helps to complete the unwinding process.
Goody bags are dished out before leaving and,
guess what?, they’re not full of chocolate, but
instead are crammed with healthy recipes, spice
mixes, fermentation starters, massage oil, a
personalised yoga practice and more , so that you
can keep up the good work when you get home.
The next retreats are from July 15-20, September
16-21 and October 21-26. Prices from £1975 per
person, all inclusive. ◆
theclovermill.com/microbiome
92 BritishTravelJournal.com
SOOTHE YOUR SOUL IN
THE WYE VALLEY
The Tudor Farmhouse, in the heart of both the
Forest of Dean and the Wye Valley is a great
place to immerse yourself in nature. The hotel’s
Soul Soother breaks take things a step further
as they include forest bathing experience (or
Shinrin-yoku in Japanese) with expert Carina
Greenwood. So…for those who don’t know,
it doesn’t mean having an actual bath in the
forest. It isn’t just about taking a walk in the
forest either. It’s about learning to fully immerse
yourself in the woodland environment, being
mindful and opening up all your senses. Exercises
might include time spent concentrating only on
movement, colour or smell for example, or really
studying a tree up close. The experience finishes
with a foraged tea ceremony. All those who book
this package will also receive a gratitude journal
plus a sleep spray. In-room massages or a visit to
local floatation centre Float in the Forest can also
be arranged. Prices from £298 per person including
two nights half board, a forest bathing session, a
Bramley Sleep Spray and a Gratitude Journal. ◆
tudorfarmhousehotel.co.uk
ONE NIGHT REFRESHER
IN PEMBROKESHIRE
Just a one-night break away from home can be
surprisingly invigorating. Sea Kayaking, Foraging
and Wild Camping along the Pembrokeshire
Coast with Much Better Adventures achieves
it even better than most. Day one blows away
the cobwebs straightaway, pootling in a
kayak around wooded estuaries and secluded
bays. Explore sea caves, spot seals and fish
for mackerel, which you’ll cook later over the
campfire for dinner. The expert guides teach
you some bush craft skills and help you forage
for more edible goodies. Slumber comes in the
form of sleeping and Bivvy bags beneath the
stars on a secluded beach, only accessible by
boat. Next morning after breakfast, there’s more
kayaking and your guides can teach you the art
of body surfing. This trip runs between May and
September and is for up to eight people, so ideal
with a group of family or friends.
Prices from £260 per person, all-inclusive. ◆
muchbetteradventures.com
BritishTravelJournal.com 93
94 BritishTravelJournal.com
WALKING TOUR OF...
CHESTER
CITY WALLS
Now that we are able to wander
around Britain's towns again,
visiting historic sites and stopping
somewhere picturesque for a
relaxing lunch, the walled city of
Chester is at the top of our list
DISTANCE
—
This two mile
walk takes
about 45
minutes but
will of course
take longer if
you stop to take
photographs or
divert to explore
all the curious
and historic
sights visible
from the walls.
ONCE UPON A
MEDIEVAL time every
British city needed walls.
Most demolished them
in less turbulent times,
to ease expansion in the eighteenth and
nineteenth centuries but a few cities
were far-sighted enough – or simply
Words | Adrian Mourby not wealthy enough – and deferred
demolition until it happened that walls
suddenly became fashionable again.
Nowadays we no longer need them to
keep out marauders or exclude rebellious
Pictured: armies but walls do keep a town centre
King Charles compact and they do make for a great
Tower found in
tourist attraction as well.
the North East
corner of
Nowhere in Britain have city walls
Chester's City been so well preserved as at Chester, a
Walls walk small half-timbered, sandstone city on
the River Dee that was a major west coast
port in Roman times. The port silted up
in the middle ages and is now a famous
racecourse beautifully laid out below the
Chester city walls. Today almost every attraction
that Chester has to offer the visitor can be
viewed from the two mile circuit of these
walls.
à
BritishTravelJournal.com 95
“
Nowadays we no longer need city walls to keep out marauders or
exclude rebellious armies but they do keep a town centre compact
and they do make for a great tourist attraction as well
”
Pictured left: Bridge
Street, which along
with Northgate
Street, Watergate
Street and Eastgate
Street, is one of the
four original streets
built inside Roman
Chester. Below:
Installed in 1899,
the Eastgate Clock
is positioned on the
bridge over Eastgate
Street.
Start your visit by taking the steps
on Pepper Street up to the walls
and turning left. Peppergate was
the scene of a famous elopement in
Tudor times. The furious alderman
whose daughter had slipped through
the gate to run away with her lover
ordered that it must henceforth be
kept locked after sunset, which gave
rise to a local saying that mocks any
precaution taken too late. “When the
daughter is stolen, shut the Pepper
Gate.
The city walls are as wide as a
modern British pavement and they
pass over all of Chester’s gates.
Three hundred yards east along the
parapet we encounter East Gate
over the old Decumanus Maximus,
the main Roman road through
the city. Originally it continued
on as far as Mamucium (modern
day Manchester). Here there is a
splendidly ornate painted Victorian
clock over the gate under which all
walkers must pass. It commemorates
Queen Victoria’s Golden Jubilee in
1897.
One of the best views into the
city is from this clock, all the way
down pedestrianised Eastgate
Street with its huge range of typical
Did you know?
The Eastgate Clock in
Chester, is said to be the
most photographed clock
in England after Big Ben
96 BritishTravelJournal.com
ILLUSTRATION BY
CONTISTA MEDIA LTD
Chester architecture, Gothic,
Tudor, Georgian, neoclassical and
nineteenth century mock Tudor.
Further along the walls we pass
the cathedral and the old abbey
grounds. Sometimes you’ll see a
range of swift hunting birds being put
through their paces below.
At a point where the walls turn
north there is a round tower marking
the corner. From Roman times
Chester was always a rectangular city
with rounded corners and a defensive
tower at each corner. This particular
tower is named after King Charles I
who in 1645 is said to have watched
the Battle of Rowton Moor unfold
from its roof. It was a bad day for the
ill-fated king as his army were driven
from the field and he narrowly missed
being killed by a Parliamentary sniper
as he escaped.
From here walls now run parallel to
the Shropshire Union Canal which is
cut deep into the sandstone outcrop
on which Chester was built. At
North Gate the old Roman northsouth
road through Chester (Cardo
Maximus) passes below. The elegant,
brick-built Blue Coat School, opened
in 1717 to provide education for poor
and deserving boys of the city is
visible from the gate. It is now part of
Chester University.
The walls now run westwards,
downhill towards the old Roman
port. Midway along there is an
eighteenth-century round tower
with stone seating facing into the
à
BritishTravelJournal.com 97
city. This was built as the Goblin
Tower but now it’s locally known
as Pemberton’s Parlour after a
mayor of Chester who was involved
in its reconstruction. Below this
stand two towers built to defend
the Roman port. The one nearest
the river is called - not surprisingly
- Water Tower while the other is
named after Bonewaldesthorne,
an officer in the army of Queen
Aethelflaed, who in the tenthcentury
was responsible for
extending Chester’s Roman walls
down to the river.
Surprisingly, at this point a
railway line is cut straight through
the walls. This act of Victorian
vandalism was done in 1846, long
before the city walls were scheduled
as an ancient monument in 1979.
The walk along the western
length of the walls gives a good
view over the Roodee racecourse
which was Britain’s largest port in
Roman times. The River Dee now
skirts the racecourse in the distance
where it is crossed by the Grosvenor
Bridge. When this elegant stone
bridge was opened by Queen
Victoria’s mother in 1832, it was
the longest single-span arch bridge
in the world, an honour that it
retained for 30 years.
After Roodee the wall reaches
Chester Castle which was built on
raised ground overlooking the River
Dee. Constructed over centuries
in the same sandstone as the city
wall the castle consists of a Norman
tower, a medieval stronghold and a
sequence of neoclassical buildings
that were designed by Thomas
WHERE TO EAT
–
JOSEPH BENJAMIN
This popular modern restaurant close
to North Gate was created by Joseph
and Benjamin who are also responsible
for Porta Tapas next door. This
winning team have recently ventured
into Greater Manchester too.
134 – 140 Northgate Street, 01244
344295, josephbenjamin.co.uk
–
CHEF’S TABLE
A tiny, cheerful café-cum-bistro that is
open from breakfast till very late. Bare
boards and black tables rightly place
all the emphasis on the food and the
service. This is probably also the best
vegan restaurant in Chester.
Music Hall Passage, 01244 403040,
chefstablechester.co.uk
–
THE ARCHITECT
Close to the race course, the home of
Thomas Harrison who created so many
of Chester’s fine 19th century buildings
has been turned into a pub-cum-dining
room offering traditional British dishes
with an eastern twist.
54 Nicholas St, 01244 353070,
brunningandprice.co.uk/architect/
–
IMAGE © D.SEJRUP
98 BritishTravelJournal.com
Words | Adrian Mourby
Pictured:
King Charles
Tower found in
the North East
corner of
Chester's City
Walls walk
MEDIEVAL time
every British city
needed walls. Most
demolished them
in less turbulent times, to ease
expansion in the eighteenth and
nineteenth centuries but a few
cities were far-sighted enough
– or simply not wealthy enough
– and deferred demolition until
it happened that walls suddenly
became fashionable again.
Nowadays we no longer need
them to keep out marauders or
exclude rebellious armies but
walls do keep a town centre
compact and they do make for a
great tourist attraction as well.
Nowhere in Britain have city
walls been so well preserved as at
Chester, a small half-timbered,
sandstone city on the River Dee
that was a major west coast port
in Roman times. The port silted
106 BRITISHTRAVELJOURNAL.COM BRITISHTRAVELJOURNAL.COM 107
walls.
Stratford
-upon
-Avon
Pictured
Left-Right:
Afternoon Tea
at The Architect,
Nicholas Street;
Chester Castle;
The Roman
Gardens
Harrison (1788 – 1813) the same
person who designed Grosvenor
Bridge. Today Chester’s military
museum and Crown Courts are
housed in the castle.
Just before Bridge Gate the wall
briefly disappears and becomes
Castle Drive and the University’s
Riverside complex, but it resumes
within a few hundred yards at Old
Dee Bridge. The very first bridge on
this site was built by the Romans
but this span dates from 1387. On
the far side of this low sandstone
structure there are the remains of a
Roman temple to Minerva and the
road then leads on to Wales.
In medieval times relations
between the people of Chester and
their Welsh neighbours were so bad
that it was not deemed illegal to kill
a Welshman found within the city.
(This law has never been repealed.)
We are almost back at
Peppergate but do look out beyond
the walls as we come full circle. Next
to the eleventh-century Church of St
John the Baptist – greatly reduced
following many collapses over the
centuries – lie the remains of the
largest Roman amphitheatre in
Britain. Only half of it has been
dug out because to uncover the
rest several buildings would have
to be demolished, not to mention
the damage to St John’s shaky
foundations. Now it’s time to set off
into the centre and explore.
For more information visit
visitcheshire.com/chester
IN OUR NEXT ISSUE:
Stratford -upon-Avon, wander
round this medieval market town
in England's West Midlands...
WALKING TOUR OF...
STRATFORD
UPON-AVON
Visit Stratford upon Avon to
catch a performance at
one of Shakespeare’s plays
or take a boat on the river.
DISTANCE
—
This 2 mile walk
takes about 45
minutes but
will of course
take longer if
you stop to take
photographs
or divert off it
to explore all
the curious and
historic sights
visible from the
NCE UPON A
Y
à
WHERE TO STAY
–
THE CHESTER
GROSVENOR
Built by the Duke of Westminster, this
five-star Chester hotel represents very
high standards of service. It also offers
valet-parking and a Michelin-starred
dining room with over 1000 wine labels.
Simon Radley at The Grosvenor.
Eastgate St, 01244 324024,
chestergrosvenor.com
–
ODDFELLOWS
With visually-stunning public rooms,
Oddfellows is a well-heeled counterculture
boutique hotel hidden behind
a sombre 19th century facade. Modern
bedrooms lie across a courtyard known
as The Secret Garden.
20 Lower Bridge Street, 01244 345454,
oddfellowschester.com
–
EDGAR HOUSE
Perhaps the most romantic hotel in
Chester is this luxury Georgian villa on
the city walls and overlooking the River
Dee. A sweeping staircase, working
fireplaces and lots of chandeliers
complete the blend of heritage and
luxury.
22 City Walls, 01244 347007,
edgarhouse.co.uk
–
BritishTravelJournal.com 99
BRITISH TRAVEL JOURNAL CROSSWORD 09
ACROSS
9 Selling point for a seaside pad
(5,4)
10 Cambridgeshire site of a
wartime railway disaster (5)
11 Low density wood (5)
12 Scottish clan which produced
Rob Roy (9)
13 Sylvan Site of Special Scientific
Interest near Grewelthorpe,
North Yorkshire (8)
14 Miffs (6)
15 Birthplace of Formula One
champion Nigel Mansell (5-4-6)
19 The Continent (6)
20 Decreased (8)
23 Confused (2,1,6)
25 Those who are male must not
cut their hair (5)
27 Musically slow (5)
28 Rerun epic about immoderate
desire (9)
DOWN
1 Good spot for a picnic, like the
Tamar Valley (1,1,1,1)
2 "Cautionary Tales for Children"
writer (6)
3 One way to cut a sandwich (2,4)
4 Short video extract (4,4)
5 Oenologists' annual London
challenge (1,1,1,1)
6 Alienate (8)
7 Shakespearean theatre in
Southwark (3,5)
8 Incarcerated (10)
13 --- House, Guernsey home to
Victor Hugo (10)
16 Trainers trampled tracts of land (8)
17 Type of brandy (8)
18 1987 Kevin Costner/Gene
Hackman thriller (2,3,3)
21 Alleged Great Glen
lake-dweller (6)
22 Preference (6)
The first correct crossword received will be rewarded with a free gift from
The Travelling Reader. Simply send your completed crossword (or the answers)
with your choice of The Original, The London, or Simply British Tastes box,
(thetravellingreader.com) and your postal address, by post to British Travel
Journal, Mitchell House, Brook Avenue, Warsash, Southampton, Hampshire,
SO31 9HP, or email the answers to [email protected]
BOOKSHELF
We're reading...
Answers will be printed in the Autumn/Winter Issue out 4 September
ANSWERS TO CROSSWORD 08 | SPRING 2021
ACROSS: 1 Stopped 5 Ufology 9 Smooth 10 Triassic 11 Urquhart 12 Greedy
13 Recommends 15 Shad 16 Acts 18 Cohesively 21 Blazes 22 Mutinied 24
Aberdeen 25 Orange 26 Orphans 27 Stashed. DOWN: 2 Tamar 3 Profumo
4 Ephraim 6 Fridges 7 Lessees 8 Guildhall 10 Tutankhamun 14 Excalibur 17
Sizergh 18 Cistern 19 Sits out 20 Vandals 23 Eagle
W E LOVE
Take the slow road: England & Wales Inspirational Journeys round England and
Wales by Camper Van and Motorhome, Bloomsbury, £20 | Wild Swimming Walks 28
coast, lake and river days out, Waterstones, £14.99 | Treasure Island An inspiring
guide to 200 of Britain's most stunning and interesting islands, Bloomsbury, £18.99 |
Coasting Elise Downing was the youngest person and first female to run the coast of
Britain in 2016, Coasting is the story of her journey, Summersdale, £9.99
The new Mavericks collection from Millican. If you have
not yet heard of this sustainable backpack brand, and enjoy
everyday adventures, then you should check out their website
before you next lace up! The team are based from a farm at the
foot of Skiddaw in the Lake District National Park, and named
their company after a local legend, Millican Dalton who they
describe as "a maverick spirit, defined by fierce independence".
Smith The Roll Pack, as pictured, £140, homeofmillican.com
100 BritishTravelJournal.com
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