British Travel Journal | Spring 2023

AT

BRITISH TRAVEL

JOURNAL

SPRING 2023 | ISSUE 14

BRITISHTRAVELJOURNAL.COM

HOLISTIC

HIGHS

EXPERIENCES TO NOURISH

THE MIND, BODY AND SOUL

O N E

WIN

WIN! WIN! WIN!

A LUXURY

SPA DAY

O F

H OT E L S

F O U R

Dog-friendly

BREAKS

£6.95

+ TRAVEL NEWS | SPA BREAKS | INTERVIEWS | HOTELS | ROMANTIC STAYS

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BRITISH TRAVEL

JOURNAL

BritishTravelJournal.com

Welcome

EDITOR’S LETTER

—

EDITORS

EDITOR-IN-CHIEF Jessica Way

FEATURES EDITOR Samantha Rutherford

CHIEF SUB-EDITOR Angela Harding

HEAD OF DIGITAL Adrian Wilkinson

CONTRIBUTORS

Sophie Farrah, Chantal Haines, Jane Knight,

Sophie Minto, Adrian Mourby, Karyn Noble,

Natalie Paris, Phoebe Reeves

COVER PHOTO

—

Paddleboarding on Derwentwater in

the Lake District National Park

Published by

CONTISTA MEDIA

Unit 6, Basepoint, Andersons Road,

Southampton, SO14 5FE

01489 660680

contistamedia.co.uk

Blossom by blossom the spring begins, prompting an

array of floral masterclasses (page 78), and other

wonderful courses, including cooking, surfing and

beekeeping (page 38). Once you have learned a

new skill, why not celebrate with a wellness break from our

restorative assortment of Holistic Highs (page 52) or hide

away in a romantic bolthole for two (page 90).

If you’re ready for a pawsome adventure with your

beloved four-legged friend, you’ll be pleased to discover that

almost all the hotels and self-catering properties featured in

our Travel News (page 9) are either entirely dog-friendly or

have designated bedrooms for ‘pawfect’ stays.

One such pooch-welcoming retreat is Whatley Manor

in the Cotswolds. Here, we meet executive chef Ricki Weston

to learn more about his life as a rising star in modern British

gastronomy and the hotel's Michelin-starred restaurant

(page 44). And we even master the art of paddleboarding in

the Lake District with a five-year-old vizsla in tow (page 64).

If it’s a city break you’re after this season, our writers

uncover the most à la mode attractions in beautiful Bath

(page 28) and walk the charming maze of twisting narrow

lanes in York (page 84).

Jessica x

JESSICA WAY

EDITOR-IN-CHIEF

–

All rights reserved by Contista Media Ltd. Copyright is either

owned by or licenced to Contista Media Ltd, or permitted by the

original copyright holder. Reproduction in whole or part without

written permission is strictly prohibited. While every care is taken

prices and details are subject to change and Contista Media Ltd

take no responsibility for omissions or errors. Views expressed by

authors are not necessarily those of the publisher.

@BritishTravelJournal

@BritishTravelJournal

@BTravelJournal

BritishTravelJournal.com 3

SPRING ON TRESCO

Time to be awakened. By the incomprehensible array of plants in

bloom at the Abbey Garden. By an equinox yoga practise or a cool

coastal escape. By open water swimming, Tresco-wide walking, by

nourishing nature as it comes to life with the island’s unique rhythm.

TRESCO.CO.UK/SPRING

Tresco: 28 miles off the Cornish coast. Somewhere else altogether.

CONTENTS

SPRING 2023 | ISSUE 14

28

64

52

FEATURES

28

AN ELEGANT CITY BREAK

Why just wander through Bath’s UNESCO

World Heritage streets when you can glide above

them in a hot-air balloon! Be sure to embrace

a revitalising dip in the UK’s only naturally hot

thermal waters and don’t miss the city’s hottest new

restaurant opening, Beckford Canteen

SPRING INTO ACTION

38 Take on an exciting new challenge while

learning a new skill. From horse riding in the

Highlands and cooking like Raymond Blanc with his

mother's own recipes in Oxfordshire, to painting

spectacular Cornish landscapes

HOLISTIC HIGHS

52 Find unique ways to nurture yourself with a

wellness stay at one of the UK’s leading spa retreats,

including rediscovering yourself in Cornwall,

harnessing the power of nature under a full moon in

West Sussex, and taking a Wim-Hof-style cold-water

plunge in the Surrey Hills

DOG-FRIENDLY ADVENTURE

64 There's water, water everywhere in this

stunning part of England, and oh so many ways

to enjoy it, including paddleboarding on Lake

Derwentwater with dog Wilbur in tow

A WALK AROUND YORK

84 Take a stroll inside the medieval walls of York

as you locate some of the city’s most remarkable

buildings and landmarks, including York Minster,

Lendal Bridge, York Art Gallery, The Shambles and

Yorkshire Museum

INTERVIEWS

44

RICKI WESTON: TO THE MANOR BORN

Young, ambitious, and experimental, Whatley

Manor Hotel & Spa's Ricki Weston chats to us about

his classical culinary techniques, eco-escapism,

having guests in the kitchen, and the launch of his

new tasting menu this spring


E D I T O R

L O V E S

Discovered during a hotel stay at the

recently refurbished Goodwood Hotel

in Sussex, their new homemade Levin

Down Goodwood Gin is perfectly

balanced. First sipped in the hotel bar

and later enjoyed at home following a

visit to the Goodwood Farm Shop, it's

handcrafted from locally grown wild

botanicals, and distilled with mineral

water filtered through the very chalk

Downs that surround the estate. You

don’t need to be a guest at the hotel

for a taste of this authentic London Dry

refined from the wilds of West Sussex,

as it is also available to order online.

Priced £40, shop.goodwood.com

JOTTINGS

09

TRAVEL NEWS

There’s lots to experience and

look forward to this year, from wild

Scottish cabins with Nordic saunas and

a pond for swimming to luxurious stone

cottages in an entirely new Cotswolds

village, or travel pier to pier on a

brand-new cycling route in Somerset

WIN A SPA DAY

36 One of four luxury spa days for

two (with heavenly treatments and

sumptuous food) could be yours,

thanks to four idyllic Pride of Britain

Hotels: Ockenden Manor; Hartwell

House; Calcot & Spa; and The

Headland Hotel

BEAUTIFUL BATHROOMS

68 In our curated selection of

luxurious hotel bathrooms you will

find lavish interiors, spacious walk-in

rain showers, side-by-side bathtubs,

twin sinks, outdoor tubs on private

terraces, high-tech innovation and

fabulous views

BRITAIN IN BLOOM

78 Which floral masterclass is right

for you? Take your pick from crafting

fresh spring wreaths made from

Cumbrian foliage; growing flowers at

Le Manoir aux Quat’Saisons’ Hartley

Botanic glasshouse; or creating

beautiful bouquets at Scotland’s

charming Victorian mansion, Cromlix

78

ROMANTIC STAYS

90 Treat yourself to a luxury

spring getaway; whether you prefer

a design-led bothy, a chic cottage or

a windswept clifftop cabin, we have

a remote hideaway for you and your

loved one to snuggle down in

FOR YOUR JOURNEY

98 Get outside and explore with

our spring book recommendations,

or sharpen the mind with a crossword

challenge for the chance to win a

stylish Ettinger passport cover and

luggage tag

68

Let your feet do the talking and invest in

a new pair of comfortable trainers this

spring. As well as shoes, ARNE have

launched a new range of activewear.

Womens Active Runner, £100

arneclo.com

6 BritishTravelJournal.com

IMAGE © JAKE EASTHAM

The PerfecT GifT

PoB Hotels gift vouchers can be redeemed for an

unforgettable stay, delightful dining, or an inspiring

experience at any of their hotels across the British Isles.

pobhotels.com

Against the backdrop

of a renowned collection

experience critically acclaimed

exhibitions of historical and

contemporary art, lectures,

concerts, workshops and

events or indulge in our

Garden Café.

DON’T MISS

Alberta Whittle: Dipping below a waxing

moon, the dance claims us for release

Until 8 May 2023

Painted Love: Renaissance Marriage Portraits

26 May to 1 October 2023

Michael Simpson: Drawing towards Painting

6 May to 17 September 2023

Lucie Rie: The Adventure of Pottery

14 July 2023 George to 7 Shaw January 2024

A Corner of a Foreign Field

‘Without Hands’ The Art of Sarah Biffin

Édouard Vuillard

29 September 2023 to 14 January 2024

The Poetry of the Everyday

Gwen John:

Lauren

Art

Child

and Life in London and Paris

27 October The 2023 Art of to Illustration 14 April 2024

2019 HIGHLIGHTS

Against Rembrandt

the backdrop of a renowned collection

experience A Life critically in Print acclaimed exhibitions

of historical Henri and Matisse contemporary art, lectures,

concerts, Master workshops of Line and events or indulge in

our Garden Café

Great Great Pulteney Pulteney Street, Street, Bath Bath BA2 BA2 4DB 4DB

www.holburne.org

STYLISH RETREATS IN THE UK’S HOTTEST LOCATIONS

From cosying up fireside in a country cottage, to stargazing from a

dreamy hot tub at your clifftop hideaway, escape the everyday and

seek the magic of a staycation with Boutique Retreats. With over

260 luxury abodes to choose from, uncover our curated collection

of luxury retreats, set in unique locations across the UK.

boutique-retreats.co.uk

+44 (0)1872 553 491

[email protected]

Spring

TRAVEL NEWS

Hip hotels, budget beach boltholes and a stunning treehouse for 10 are

among our latest batch of hot new properties to tempt you this spring

Text by Jane Knight

HOTEL NEWS

GLAMPING

SELF-CATERING

ATTRACTIONS

from page 10 from page 14

from page 16 from page 20

Pictured above: The Braken Hide Hotel. Inset, left to right: Boys Hall Hotel; Forest Holidays, Garwnant; West Barsham Estate; Wild Drovers Way

Hotel News

LONDON

Hux Hotel, Kensington

When they say they didn’t hold back with

their new suite, the folk at the hip and

happening Hux Hotel next to Kensington

Palace Gardens weren’t kidding. With

vibrant walls and lavish furnishings, The

Huxy One features work by Icelandic artist

Kristjana S Williams. Stuffed animals

abound: a peacock stands in the blue

sitting room, a swan is stalled in flight in the

swish bathroom, and a parrot occupies a

dressing-room perch. We’ll leave it to you to

decide if it’s the last word in extravagance

or an animal-lover’s nightmare. ◆

From £1,050 a night, huxhotel.com

MARGATE

No 42 by Guesthouse

The Telegraph calls Tracey Emin’s hometown a ‘beacon of

Bohemia’ and Tatler says its art scene rival’s Ibiza’s. From June, you

can take in the wonders of Margate while based at this 21-room

hotel, which has record players in the rooms along with coffeemakers

in mini beach huts, a rooftop bar and a beachfront cafe. ◆

Rooms from £155, guesthousehotels.co.uk

SCOTLAND

Tongue Hotel

The views are already pretty good from this former sporting lodge,

which overlooks the Kyle of Tongue, on the scenic North Coast

500 route. Now it’s equally enticing within, following a facelift

from new owner Highland Coast Hotels, which added bursts of

colour and fresh furnishings to wood panelling and antiques. ◆

Rooms from £149, with breakfast, tonguehotel.co.uk


RUTLAND

Barnsdale Lodge

Following its success with Berkshire’s Retreat at Elcot Park, The

Signet Collection is introducing the same formula to rural Rutland.

With sublime views of Rutland Water, Barnsdale Lodge is surrounded

by walking trails, and comes with an on-site beauty salon.

Rooms from £120, with breakfast, barnsdalerutland.com

KENT

Boys Hall

Sometimes restaurants with rooms are more

about the food than the furnishings. Not so

at this Jacobean manor house, with its seven

super-smart bedrooms – think rolltop baths,

four posters and window seats. The enormous,

beamed restaurant makes a great backdrop,

too, for chef Shane Pearson’s gourmet version

of home-cooked favourites. Just a 35-minute

train ride from London, Boys Hall is the passion

project of husband-and-wife team Bradley and

Kristie Lomas. There’s more to come, with new

rooms and cabins due to open later this year,

along with treatment rooms and an outdoor

pizza oven plus garden-room bar. ◆

Rooms from £160, with breakfast,

boys-hall.com

Editor loves

WALES

The Caban, Pendine Sands

Looking for a budget seaside break? Look no further

than Carmarthen Bay, where this 14-room hotel

overlooks seven miles of sand. Pared back, modern

rooms cost from just £80. Better still, the hotel is

next door to the new Museum of Land Speed, which

replaces the Museum of Speed. The attraction opens

on 31 March, the same day as The Caban. ◆

cabanpentywyn.cymru


ALDEBURGH-ON-SEA

The Suffolk

Sup and sleep in Suffolk-sur-sea, aka Aldeburgh, where this former

inn has just opened six beautifully designed bedrooms to go with

its seafront restaurant. Should you get peckish after the excellent

seafood at dinner, you can raid the first-floor pantry.

Rooms from £180, the-suffolk.co.uk

KENT

Updown Farmhouse

It’s all very rustic at this little restaurant with

rooms in 7.5 acres of rolling Kent countryside.

Everything is cooked in the outdoor kitchen,

with its baker’s oven built into the stable wall

and wood-fired grill; guests eat in a covered

outdoor space. The short menu might be

Italian leaning but it’s strong on local produce.

Typical dishes include tagliolini with chilli and

crab and braised short rib with pickled walnut.

Within the 17th-century farmhouse are five

block-coloured rooms, while another is set

within the gardener’s cottage outside. ◆

Rooms cost from £250, with breakfast,

updownfarmhouse.com

SCOTLAND

Bracken Hide Hotel, Skye

Wilderness meets hotel at this Scottish bolthole,

which opens mid April. Rooms are in 27 cabins

spread over the 53-acre site, which is also home to a

pair of Nordic saunas and a pond for wild swimming.

A whisky bar, a games room and a restaurant are

in the main building. ◆

From £150 a night, brackenhide.co.uk


CHANNEL ISLANDS

Glamping

BRECON BEACONS

Forest Holidays, Garwnant

Just in time for spring, Forest Holidays has

opened in Wales' beautiful Brecon Beacons

National Park, amid 400 acres of woodland. Its

40 timber cabins with large decks are designed

to let guests immerse themselves in nature.

Head out on two wheels to explore forest

trails, then build dens, and learn about the

big outdoors on one of the new Forest Ranger

experiences. Return to your private hot tub and

indulge in a little star spotting: the park is a

Dark Sky Reserve. ◆

Cabins sleep two to 10 guests and cost from

£1,510 to £2,935 for four nights in April,

forestholidays.co.uk

IMAGE © PAUL BOX

SOMERSET

The Glastonbury Pop Up Hotel

If you want to glamp at Glastonbury, book now to bag a yurt, a

gypsy caravan or an emperor tent. Classic rooms have already sold

out; prices are now from £3,399 for two. It’s not cheap, but you do

get proper beds, a restaurant, spa and swimming pool access, all a

ten-minute walk from gate D. ◆

thepopuphotel.com

CUMBRIA

Icelandic Turf House

Channel your inner Viking at a quirky turf house near Kirkby

Stephen. Beneath the grass roof you’ll find a bed lined with faux

fur, a table for feasting, Viking-style lamps, and horn glasses to

drink from. Set off from the door for walks in the fells, then return

to cook on the BBQ or in the kitchen hut. ◆

From £75 a night for two, canopyandstars.co.uk


HEREFORDSHIRE

The Journeyman Treehouse

Treehouses don’t come much better than this. Sleeping 10, the

woodland retreat has twin baths on the veranda, a pool table and

a movie projector, as well as a fire pit, a BBQ and a pizza oven.

Four nights cost from £1,596, journeymanstudio.com

DERBYSHIRE

Field of Dreams glampsite

at Melbourne Hall

For a change from tents, why not stay in a

German fire truck, an American school bus,

or even a helicopter? The vehicles form part

of comedian and TV star Johnny Vegas’ new

glampsite. Moving from his original Yorkshire

pitch in search of something bigger, the

eponymous star of Channel 4’s Johnny Vegas:

Carry on Glamping picked the Derbyshire

home of Lord and Lady Kerr to host his

Field of Dreams campsite, opening in April.

Combine a stay with one of the boutique

events held at the hall. ◆

Two nights from £330, melbournehall.com

IMAGE © ANDREA JONES / GARDEN EXPOSURES PHOTO LIBRARY

EAST SUSSEX

Olive, Unplugged

Need a digital detox? Eco-cabin company Unplugged

expects to have 50 UK lodges by the year end, up from

11 last August. Among them is Olive, with a picture

window looking onto woodland, a wood stove, and

plenty of games. Guests swap their digital devices for

an old-school Nokia in case of emergencies. ◆

Three nights from £390, unplugged.rest


Self-Catering

CORNWALL

Senara, Gwithian Beach

Scandi-chic comes to the West Country at this

beach house, a mile from Gwithian’s sandy

dunes, with views over St Ives Bay. Wall-to-wall

white décor lies within the barn-like living areas

with floor-to-ceiling windows, and six bedrooms

in the main house. An additional bedroom is in

the annex, perfect for grandparents wanting a

bit of peace. On sunny days, the beach beckons,

while back at the ranch, you can wallow in the

pool, and hit the hot tub and sauna. The house

also has a gym and a yoga deck. ◆

It’s yours from £4,995 a week, for 12 people,

uniquehomestays.com

NORFOLK

West Barsham Estate

The bevy of barns that makes up this estate is now looking super

stylish after a colourful makeover by interior designer Flora Soames.

With on-site beer tasting and a monthly street-food event, the barns

make a great base for exploring North Norfolk’s magical coastline. ◆

Sleeping from four to 14, they cost from £550–£2,650 for a

three-night stay, barshambarns.co.uk

DEVON

The Mole Resort

Forget mole holes: these lodges in Devon near the River Mole are

the height of luxury. Sleeping up to eight people, with a balcony

deck, a hot tub and a fully equipped kitchen, the lodges will be

joined in the summer by a refurbished hotel. On-site activities

include swimming, tennis, pickleball and trout fishing. ◆

Three nights for eight from £1,752, themoleresort.co.uk


WORCESTERSHIRE

Lion Lodges at West Midland Safari Park

Book now to stay within a whisker of the big cats in four lodges

opening here in July. The lions are on show through the floor-to-ceiling

windows in the living area and from the two bedrooms.

From £790 for two, including breakfast, dinner, and two days’ park

admission, safari-lodges.co.uk

THE COTSWOLDS

Daylesford Village

Celebrating a special event? You can now take

over a whole Cotswolds village. The 15 stone

cottages at Daylesford village, on a 2,500-

acre estate, were recently launched by Carole

Bamford. Her farm shop is just down the road,

offering cookery classes, floristry workshops,

winetastings and the use of the Bamford

Wellness Spa. And if you don’t want to cook, it’s

just a short walk to the two pubs in Bamford’s

empire: The Fox at Oddington and The Wild

Rabbit. It's price on application, which means

it’s expensive, but you can rent the cottages

individually from £375 a night for two. ◆

daylesford.com

ANGLESEY

Driftwood Lodge

The beach at Rhosneigr is a beauty, and this

self-catering annex attached to a six-room

guesthouse is just a short walk away. Enjoy your

own privacy, plus a fully fitted kitchenette and

room for three, then set off to explore the 120-

mile island coastland, with plenty of rural trails. ◆

A night for three is from £190,

rhosneigr.co.uk


Self-Catering

HAMPSHIRE

The Bugle, Southampton

When you hire this Grade-II-listed townhouse

on Bugle Street overlooking Southampton’s

Royal Pier, you can customise it to any event,

picking your own decorations and caterer.

Whether you want a cocktail party or a seated

wedding for 104 guests, an events coordinator

helps you iron out any details. In strippedback

style, it opened in January and is the first

of three properties from The Wonder House

Group. The 5-storey house comes with a fully

stocked basement bar and eight rooms; it is

also available for exclusive-use homestays for

16 people. ◆

Two nights costs from £2,750, or venue hire is

from £2,500, thebugle.house

NORTH CORNWALL

Tresithney

For those looking for a coastal retreat for the family, this five-bedroom

dog-friendly property situated in the heart of Rock village is in

walking distance of the beach and oozes luxury. It has a games

room with pool, ping pong and board games. It also comes with its

own cinema room and heated swimming pool with large terrace. ◆

From £4,500 for seven nights, shorestays.co.uk

NORTH PENNINES

Blackton Grange

You’d never know this place was a former youth hostel. Forget

dormitories and cheap furnishings: the exclusive-hire house now

has five en-suite bedrooms, plus its own cinema room, a swish

cocktail lounge, and a hot tub overlooking the rolling hills. Not far

from Barnard Castle, it sleeps up to 17 people. ◆

From £2,300 for two nights, blacktongrange.co.uk


WEST SUSSEX

Terrarium, Chichester

If you fancy staying in a house that featured on the TV show

Grand Designs, this might be the place, with its glass and

timber front, spiral staircase and interiors that are the epitome

of stripped-back elegance.

A week for 10 from £6,995, uniquehomestays.com

WILTSHIRE

Kin House

An exclusive-hire venue with its own barbers

for a spot of pre-dinner grooming? Yes, and

a dressing room kitted out with hair-washing

sinks, hairdryers and tongs. They’ve done

everything possible to make this Georgian

manor the ultimate in private hire, whether you

want to hold a big birthday, a wellness retreat or

a wedding. A team of inhouse chefs can please

the most particular of palates, while in the bar

the staff love to whip up their signature burnt

orange negronis. As for the 12 bedrooms, they

have rolltop baths and minibars. ◆

From £12,500 for 24-hour hire,

kinhouse.co.uk

CHESHIRE

Edgar House

Right by Chester’s city walls, this Regency

property, that in a previous incarnation operated

as a small hotel, is now available for private hire.

It still has the look of an upmarket boutique hotel,

with a cinema, a games room, and space for 16

guests, but there’s also a large open-plan

kitchen you can use. ◆

Three nights from £3,271, daisyjoy.co.uk


Attractions

LONDON

BBC Earth Experience

See the spectacular light show created by fireflies in

North America, watch snub-nosed monkeys huddling

together to stay warm in Asia, and be amazed by

hungry hamsters in Europe fighting to keep their

food. It’s all part of the 360-degree audiovisual

journey at BBC Earth Experience, in which you can

experience remarkable landscapes and watch the

world’s most mesmerising creatures – without having

to fly anywhere. Narrated by David Attenborough,

and projected on multiple multi-angle screens, the

immersive show follows the BBV TV programme

Seven Worlds One Planet. ◆

It opens in Earl’s Court on 30 March. Tickets

cost £28.50 for adults, £22 for children,

bbcearthexperience.com

MANCHESTER

Manchester Museum

Reopened after a £15 million facelift, this museum aims to tell the city’s

diverse story, and includes a South Asia gallery and a Chinese culture

gallery. A new exhibition hall will hold ambitious shows, opening with

the 'Golden Mummies of Egypt'. Also new is a dinosaur display, and the

Belonging Gallery, reflecting on what it means to belong. ◆

museum.manchester.ac.uk

OXFORDSHIRE

The Lost Garden at Blenheim Palace

While adults marvel at Sir Winston Churchill’s birthplace, the kids will

love the new outdoor play area in the garden. With interactive water

features, play trails and winding walkways on the ground, it also has

aerial features, including rope bridges, raised walkways and triple

racing zip lines, with views over the Capability Brown parkland. ◆

blenheimpalace.com


6339 Swan Season ad British Travel Journal RiP.indd 1 21/02/2023 15:01

6339 Swan Season ad British Travel Journal RiP.indd 1 21/02/2023 1

Attractions

WEST SUSSEX

The Petworth Park Antiques

& Fine Art Fair

Everything from a pair of silver travelling candlesticks

to a £52,000 Harold Harvey oil painting

will be on show at Petworth’s antique fair in May.

More than 60 exhibitors will gather to sell a

variety of ceramics, sculptures, jewellery, artwork

and furniture. One newcomer to this year’s fair

is W. Shanshan, whose pottery includes a Han

dynasty Sichuan terracotta dancer (£12,500).

The fair, normally held at the beginning of May,

has been pushed back until 19–21 May as a result

of King Charles’ coronation. Tickets cost £10 but

entry is free to National Trust members. ◆

petworthparkfair.com

IMAGE © ALED LLYWELYN

Cairn Distillery

It’s been worth the wait – more than a century has passed since a

distillery was built in Scotland’s Cairngorms National Park. Now,

this cutting-edge modern building (with sedum roof to encourage

insect life) blends Gordon & MacPhail’s Scotch in a spectacular

spot on the banks of the River Spey. ◆

thecairndistillery.com


THE CAIRNGORMS

WALES

The Wild Drovers’ Way

Follow the winding roads and take in the foothills of the

Cambrian Mountains and swathes of sand on the coast on this

180-mile circular route once used by drovers. A new online guide

details where to stay and eat, as well as places to

recharge electric cars or to hire e-bikes. ◆

discovercarmarthenshire.com

SOMERSET

IMAGE © VISITSOMERSET.CO.UK

Pier to Pier Way

Opening at Easter, this new 13-mile cycling route will link the

Weston-super-Mare and Clevedon piers. Be sure to enjoy fish ‘n’

chips, rides and arcade games at the former, and to appreciate

‘the most beautiful pier in England’ according to poet John

Betjeman, at the latter. somerset.gov.uk

LONDON

Bacchanalia Restaurant

For a side serving of theatre with your food, you

can’t go wrong here. One of London’s hottest

new restaurants, Bacchanalia in Mayfair was

curated by flamboyant interior architect Martin

Brudnizki and it’s breathtaking from the moment

you walk through the gilded door. Damien Hirst's

equine statues gallop across a ceiling painted

with scenes from classical myths. A floor-toceiling

mural on the back wall depicts the

Last Supper, albeit one where iPhones and the

Golden Gate Bridge existed. The Greek- and

Italian-inspired food, served by toga-clad staff,

is part of the show – it’s finished at the tables for

that extra wow factor. ◆

bacchanalia.co.uk

SUSSEX

IMAGE © SIMON DACK / JIM HOLDEN

Royal Pavilion

While the final preparations are made for King

Charles III’s coronation in May, Brighton’s Royal

Pavilion is celebrating a more lavish affair. George

IV’s coronation in 1821 was extravagant, colourful

and contentious: the Queen Consort was refused

entry to the ceremony and remained uncrowned.

The exhibition, dubbed 'A Right Royal Spectacle', is

on show from 11 March to 10 September. ◆

brightonmuseums.org.uk


A Right Royal

Spectacle:

The Coronation

of George IV

11 Mar – 10 Sep 2023

Open daily

Admission payable

Members free

brightonmuseums.org.uk

A display

revealing tales

of outrageous

expense, vanity

and loss.

Come and buy the very finest

art and antiques at our ninth

annual event of distinction

THE PETWORTH PARK

ANTIQUES & FINE ART FAIR

THE MARQUEE

PETWORTH PARK

PETWORTH

W. SUSSEX GU28 0QY

19-21 MAY 2023

Friday 11.00 - 18.00

Saturday 10.30 - 18.00

Sunday 10.30 - 17.00

To request a complimentary

invitation for three please

email [email protected]

01797 252030

For updates please visit

www.petworthparkfair.com

supported by

THE

ANTIQUES

DEALERS

FAIR

LIMITED

SPECIAL FEATURE

Frameless

THE UK’S FIRST PERMANENT LARGE SCALE DIGITAL

IMMERSIVE ART EXPERIENCE

Art with no boundaries. Step inside a world of light, colour and sound

Frameless elevates the art

experience to a level never

experienced before. Unique

interpretations of masterpieces

from artists including Canaletto,

Cézanne, Dalí, Kandinsky, Klimt,

Monet, Rembrandt and Van Gogh are

displayed using the very latest interactive

projection technology in a series of four

spectacular galleries, each dedicated to

a different theme. Be uplifted by the art

surrounding you in the 30,000 square

feet space as it connects you with the

artist’s imagination. Located just a

few short steps from Marble Arch, this

immersive, multi-dimensional experience

is the biggest of its kind in the UK set

to become a major new landmark and

cultural destination for visitors in the

capital. Be sure to have your camera

ready – Frameless is a place where art

breaks free from the frame. ◆

FIND OUT MORE

Frameless is open 7 days a week

from 10am. Adult tickets start at

£25; child tickets start at £15 and

children under 5 years go for free.

For more information on the

experience and to buy tickets

visit www.frameless.com

Frameless, 6 Marble Arch, London,

W1H 7AP


Spotlight on...

ST. JAMES'S

Originally a gentlemen’s club for the English aristocracy, today

St. James’s Hotel & Club Mayfair is a perfect London

sanctuary for the modern traveller

Text by Jessica Way

It's easy to become wrapped up in the hottest hotel

openings and exciting refurbishments, often overlooking

the quieter, more unassuming establishments – ones

that have been hosting guests for centuries, not

merely decades – and yet, just like their newer rivals, are

continually evolving without complacency.

One such five-star hideaway is St. James’s Hotel & Club

in Mayfair – with such a long tradition of impeccable service,

it's no wonder Sir Winston Churchill, Henry James and Ian

Fleming have been previous members. Today’s high-profile

guests are no less impressive (Elle Macpherson, Sir Sean

Connery and Sir Elton John, to name but a few), perhaps

attracted by the privacy of this historic boutique club, subtly

located in a peaceful hidden cul-de-sac, protected from

London’s usual hustle and bustle.

As a guest of St. James’s, you get to experience this

prestigious area of London while living like a local – the

remarkable location is a short walk to a plethora of

attractions; Buckingham Palace, the exclusive stores

of Jermyn Street, Burlington Arcade, Bond Street and

the Royal Academy of Arts. The West End's theatres

and nightlife are also close by... and with no chauffeur

required, you can simply potter about, enjoying the locale

and feeling carefree and part of the sociable community.


‘

As a guest of St. James’s, you get to experience this prestigious area of London

while living like a local... feeling carefree and part of the sociable community

’

The Victorian townhouse itself is unmistakable, with a

striking red-and-white façade, retaining all its charm and

heritage. Red carpeted stone steps lead the way inside

the foyer, where there is an understated style and classical

elegance, wood-panelled walls and polished natural

stone. To the right is the reception where one of the hotel’s

impressive 20th-century paintings, from the Rosenstein

Collection, demands attention. Throughout the hotel,

there are more than 400 paintings, pictures and sculptures

from this impressive private art collection.

There are 60 exquisitely designed bedrooms with

handcrafted Murano glass chandeliers and sumptuous silk

wallpapers – the vast Terrace Suite has an open fireplace

and spacious roof terrace, or for complete exclusivity,

the St James and Westminster Suites (which, connected,

become The Penthouse) come complete with your own

private lift and panoramic views over London. De-stress

with a 90-minute body treatment or other in-room spa and

beauty service.

Art Deco is the theme at the Seven Park Place

restaurant with William Drabble, known as Billy, at the

helm. Fresh lobster and Lune Valley lamb are just some of

the delights to look forward to, thanks to Billy’s own unique

French-inspired menu, which helped gain him one Michelin

star just a year after opening.

If casual dining is more your style, take a bite from the

all-day dining menu at 1857 The Bar, offering a delectable

choice of classics, from a St James Beef Burger to Gnocchi with

Lobster. It is also here, at London’s fashionable wine bar for

oenophiles, where you can sample the oldest wine to be sold

by the glass in the UK, the Graham’s 1882 Ne Oublie port.

Jessica Way was a guest of St. James’s Hotel & Club

Mayfair, Double rooms from £375, stjameshotelandclub.com


AN

ELEGANT

city BREAK

Bath’s gracious streets and golden-stone buildings are

world renowned, but the best way of breathing in this UNESCO

heritage city’s beauty is by soaring above it all in a hot-air balloon...

Text by Natalie Paris

It’s springtime in Royal Victoria Park and

there is a strange puffing sound overhead.

For those unfamiliar with Bath, the historic

park spreads like a picnic blanket beneath

the city’s famous Royal Crescent. When

daffodils raise their heads and the magnolias

are studded with fresh buds, the park lawns

are used to launch the year’s first hot-air

balloons. The magnificent balloons fire

up – weather permitting – with an emphatic

puffing noise and rise majestically above

the trees for an aerial view of the Crescent’s

sweep of perfectly aligned townhouses.

A hot-air balloon flight is a great way to

fully appreciate this graceful street and the

Georgian architecture within this UNESCO

World Heritage city. From April 2023

onwards, the Royal Crescent Hotel & Spa,

which sits at the very centre of the Crescent,

will launch exclusive flights for two in its own

balloon. Guests who take to the skies can

enjoy an afternoon tea afterwards, picking

over an assortment of delicate sandwiches,

buns and pastries while sipping Champagne

in the hotel gardens.

The arrival of sunshine and balloon flights

makes spring an appealing time to visit

Bath, and the Royal Crescent Hotel is the

city’s premier address. There is nothing quite

like stepping out of its front door onto the

Crescent, especially if you can stay in a fourposter

bed in one of the hotel’s newly


efurbished suites. Their grand

windows look onto the Crescent’s

curve of butter-stone buildings and

the park beyond.

Bath’s historic streets have played

a winning supporting role in a

number of films, including last year’s

Persuasion, a Netflix remake of

Jane Austen’s classic love story. The

smash television drama Bridgerton

was filmed here too.

The streets are lined with refined

buildings. A short walk from the

Crescent are The Assembly Rooms,

where Georgian balls used to attract

up to 1,000 guests. Sadly, these

rooms, which were once a hub for

high society, are currently closed

for refurbishment. The chandeliers

would have sparkled in the

candlelight on a winter’s evening,

which was when the Georgian social

season ran.

A central hall leads to a card

room, once used for gambling,

and to the tea room, where weary

dancers and sharp-eyed socialites

would have descended to enjoy

sweetmeats, jellies, wine, biscuits

and tea.

Kick-start an indulgent weekend

in Bath with a glass of Buck's Fizz

and brunch in the grand Pump

IMAGE © DAKOTA JOHNSON AS ANNE ELLIOT IN PERSUASION. CR. NICK WALL/NETFLIX / ANNA STOWE

PREVIOUS PAGE, LEFT

TO RIGHT: PULTENEY

BRIDGE; THE ROYAL

CRESCENT HOTEL'S HOT-

AIR BALLOON RIDES OVER

THE HOTEL; THE ROYAL

CRESCENT HOTEL'S NEW

BEDROOM SUITE. THIS

PAGE, CLOCKWISE FROM

LEFT: THE GREAT BATH

AT ROMAN BATHS WITH

VIEWS OF BATH ABBEY;

DAKOTA JOHNSON

AS ANNE ELLIOT IN

PERSUASION; THE

SWEEPING CURVE OF

THE ROYAL CRESCENT


‘

Bath’s streets are lined with refined buildings. A short walk from the Crescent

are The Assembly Rooms, where Georgian balls used to attract up to 1,000 guests.

’

Room, which is set beside The Abbey. The Pump Room

building dates from 1795 and a fountain flows with natural

spa water inside. The Abbey itself has an elaborate facade,

with carved angels climbing ladders high above the square

in front of it, a Victorian Gothic interior and a splendid fanvaulted

ceiling.

Bath’s thermal springs and mineral-rich waters are a

big draw for visitors, and the ancient site of The Roman

Baths is fascinating. Through its ruins and artefacts, it

reveals how people used to bathe (and enjoy a sauna) in

the city 2,000 years ago and it recently uncovered a new

section that was once part of a gymnasium.

The most exciting stop for art lovers sits in another of

Bath’s notable buildings. The pillared Holburne Museum

has temporary art exhibitions, a collection of fine art and

its own Georgian pleasure gardens out the back.

Sydney Gardens was loved by Jane Austen – who once

lived opposite – and the park has recently been revitalised,

with shocks of wildflowers and a playground built from

natural materials added. The gardens are still a genteel

place for a stroll, leading up to pretty iron bridges that

span the Kennet and Avon canal. Spring is a good time to

hire a narrowboat for a pootle along the canal, and Bath

Narrowboats can organise one for you.


‘

If a spring stroll sounds more agreeable, make for Prior Park, a landscaped

garden south of the city centre. There are fine city views from the hilltop before

the garden rolls down to a Palladian bridge, serenely reflected in a lake below.

’

With so many buildings to admire, it’s no surprise that

Bath residents have an eye for beautiful things. Shoppers

should explore the higgledy-piggledy paved lanes to find

sustainably made womenswear at BIBICO, or browse the

eclectic design treasures at Found, a boutique on Pulteney

Bridge. Berdoulat is a cafe-turned-interior-design shop with

restored 18th-century shop counters, while Always Sunday

has a collection of eye-catching, artisanal homeware.

Head afterwards to Parade Gardens, where in balmy

weather you can sit among manicured flower beds.

Overlooking the River Avon as it spills across Pulteney

Weir, this is yet another elegant space to relax in. If a

spring stroll sounds more agreeable, make for Prior Park, a

landscaped garden south of the city centre. There are fine

city views from the hilltop before the garden rolls down to a

Palladian bridge, serenely reflected in a lake below.


LEFT TO RIGHT: THE NATIONAL TRUST'S PRIOR PARK

LANDSCAPE GARDEN; BECKFORD CANTEEN. NEXT PAGE,

LEFT TO RIGHT: WIDCOMBE CRESCENT; THE

GAINSBOROUGH BATH SPA; THE CROSS BATH

Dining out in Bath is always a pleasure, with

high-quality ingredients produced in the surrounding

countryside. There is one Michelin-star restaurant, Olive

Tree, which serves delectable, immaculately presented

food – for example, a plate of trout with wasabi and

Granny Smith apple.

The Elder restaurant has also won rave reviews. Inside,

you will find leather banquette seating and taxidermy but

there are also tables on the front terrace near St John’s

church. Restaurateur Mike Robinson is known for his

experience with game, and The Elder’s cooking brings

creative finesse to this traditionally used meat. A starter

of deer tartare with masala and apricot on brown butter

IMAGE © SHUTTERSTOCK

crumpets had flavours and textures that were spot on,

while a main of wood pigeon came with a rich and fruity

Moroccan pastilla of confit pigeon leg.

Newer still is Beckford Canteen, which has taken over

a Georgian greenhouse and is the new place to try this

spring. Choose from plates of technically clever food, such

as fancy sardines on toast or monkfish with curried butter.

Bath has an abundance of cosy cocktail bars hidden

in the basements of its townhouses. Dark Horse takes its

mixology seriously and is a particularly seductive space.

Or settle upon a bistro table on the cobbles outside

Beckford Bottle Shop. This candlelit wine shop has red

leather sofas inside, charcuterie boards and shelves

heaving with great bottles to sample.

When it comes to choosing a hotel, Bath has an array

of luxurious options. The Royal Crescent Hotel & Spa is a

memorable choice, or try the modern, yet still characterful,

independent hotel The Queensberry, which is home to the

Michelin-starred Olive Tree restaurant, mentioned above.

Its bedrooms are spacious, colourful and contemporary.


Spring is the perfect time to

appreciate the warmth of a dip in

the city’s steaming, thermal waters.

For an exclusive, private soak, a

line of stone colonnades leads from

the Pump Room to the Cross Bath,

where 46°C thermal springs bubble

up to the surface.

This small but historic open-air

bath can be hired by groups (with

sparkling wine available too).

Alternatively, treat yourself

to some pampering at the main

Thermae Bath Spa. The modern

complex houses pools on different

levels, as well as a sauna and steam

rooms. Treatments, such as Romanthemed

scrubs, massages and

facials, are very good but the rooftop

pool is the star of the show. It is a

photogenic spot and somewhere to

contemplate Bath’s chimneys and

church spires. Nothing beats the

view from above this city, which has

inspired writers and romantics for

centuries.

Double rooms at The Royal

Crescent from £330 year-round

with breakfast included.

royalcrescent.co.uk

For more information take a look at

visitbath.co.uk

‘

It’s invigorating;

sliding into a

swimming pool

of 35°C waters,

just as Jane

Austen once did

in the Roman

Baths from a

passage beneath

the Pump

Rooms

’


EDITOR'S HIGHLIGHT

—

There are two unsurpassed reasons to stay at The

Gainsborough Bath Spa. Firstly, location, location,

location… you just can’t beat the hotel's locale – you’re

smack dab in the centre of Bath, just a few minutes'

walk from all the action; bars, restaurants, museums,

shops, attractions and more.

Secondly, there's its incredible spa and the

opportunity to soak in Britain’s only naturally warm

waters in much more privacy than across the road at

Thermae Bath Spa. The Spa Village as its known, might

not have breathtaking views of the city from an openair

rooftop pool, however, the mostly beige four-storey

glass atrium is also a pretty spectacular sight, with

natural light giving an open-air feeling. The experience

perfectly echoes that of the Romans; with pools and

rooms of varying temperatures and humidities, the

atmosphere is peaceful and the music soothing. It’s

invigorating; sliding into a swimming pool of 35°C

waters, just as Jane Austen once did in the Roman Baths

from a passage beneath the Pump Rooms.

Along with the usual massage beds and jets,

there's an ice alcove and an elegant relaxation terrace.

Treatments (with ELEMIS products) of a high standard

are brilliantly delivered. Plus, there’s the opportunity

to enjoy the natural thermal waters entirely privately,

either by booking a treatment in a VIP Suite or by

staying in one of the hotel's exclusive spa rooms.

Elsewhere in the pristine 99-bedroom hotel you

will find yet more marble and columns, and staff who

seem to stand as proud as the grandiose pillars on the

exterior. The Georgian masterpiece is an example of

Bath’s stage-set-worthy architecture at its very best,

dating back to the 1820s. The hotel was formerly built

as a hospital and, more recently, a college. Reception is

a scene of calm precision, with none of the usual hassle.

Supremely efficient valet-parking is the norm.

Well-staffed and managed, the hotel succeeds

in maintaining an elegant and glamorous ambience

without being overly stuffy. The decor and lighting

is modern, but restrained, and dining at the

Gainsborough is, like everything else, classy and

sophisticated but managing to remain light and

somehow informal. Afternoon tea is served in the

intimate Canvas Room, breakfast and dinner is in the

Socialize restaurant, which serves British cuisine, and

where there is original artwork (by college students)

and an impressive wine wall. Locally sourced produce

is combined with divine flavours to produce innovative

dishes. Pre-dinner cocktails are whipped up in the chic

Gainsborough Bar overlooking Spa Village.

Nightly rates at The Gainsborough Bath

Spa start from £290 on a room-only basis.

thegainsboroughbathspa.co.uk


Competition time!

WIN a SPA DAY

Enter our competition to win one of four luxury spa days for

two, with heavenly treatments and sumptuous food...

In a year of recovery from all the instability of 2022,

where self-awareness of our mental and physical

wellness is more evident than ever before, treating

yourself to some well-deserved 'me' time is a must.

Let your tension melt away with a pampering

treatment at a luxurious spa before enjoying a

nourishing feast for two at one of the UK’s finest hotels.

British Travel Journal has teamed up with Pride of

Britain Hotels to offer you the opportunity to win one of

four blissful spa days. The prize includes: treatments

to help relax the mind, soothe the spirit and beautify

the body; and a delightful serving of afternoon tea

or a two-course lunch. Our fortunate winners will be

hosted in one of four idyllic hotel settings: Ockenden

Manor, a fine Elizabethan manor house in West Sussex;

Hartwell House, one of England's stately homes,

Buckinghamshire; Calcot & Spa, set within 220 acres

of rewilded Cotswolds countryside; and The Headland

Hotel, located in one of Cornwall's most heavenly

locations, overlooking Fistral Bay.


Hartwell House, Buckinghamshire

Ockenden Manor, West Sussex

Enjoy a full day of tranquillity and

indulgence at Ockenden Manor

– the impressive spa built inside a

19th-century walled garden has

a walk-through rainforest shower

fed by Ockenden's own natural

underground spring, a swim-through

indoor and outdoor pool, and a

Calcot, The Cotswolds

The Headland Hotel, Cornwall

floatation tank where saltwater

suspends the body effortlessly for

total muscle relaxation. Hartwell

House is offering a spa day with

inclusive use of the Spa Club Room

and an 85-minute luxury spa

treatment for two. The National

Trust-owned Grade-I-listed

Jacobean and Georgian house is set

in magnificent surroundings with

90 acres of gardens and parkland

within the Vale of Aylesbury and on

the edge of the Chilterns, an Area of

Outstanding Natural Beauty.

Revive, refresh and feel good at

Calcot’s world-class spa, slipping into

the soothing waters of their outdoor

fireside hot tub.

In Cornwall, The Headland Thermal

Journey includes a Swedish sauna,

a hydrotherapy pool, a Cornish-salt

steam room, a pool with swan neck jet

and a rainfall experience shower. ◆

How to enter

ON OUR WEBSITE

britishtraveljournal.com

Pride of Britain Hotels is a

collection made up of the finest

properties, each one unique

and characterful. With manor

homes, castles, woodland

retreats, elegant lodges and

city boltholes on offer, there is

a special experience awaiting

every guest. Experience the best

places to eat, stay and unwind

within the British Isles.

Last entries 30 May 2023.

Prize is to be taken before 20

December 2023.


SPRING


into

ACTION!

With the arrival of spring and

all the energy that it brings, we

discover some of the very best

places across the country to

learn a brand-new skill.

From distilling your own

flavoured vodka to cooking

fresh seafood in Cornwall, are

you ready for an exciting new

challenge this year?

Text by Sophie Farrah

Learn to catch a wave

Surf Sanctuary, Cornwall

Directly overlooking the world-famous Fistral Beach,

Surf Sanctuary is the on-site surf school at the fivestar

Headland Hotel in Newquay. Set up by a small

collective of lifelong surfers and friends that enjoy

sharing everything that the beautiful Cornish coast has

to offer, the school caters for families, individuals and

small groups, and offers bespoke and group sessions in

surfing, coasteering, stand-up-paddleboarding, snorkel

tours, ocean confidence training and more.

The Headland Hotel’s Surf & Stay package includes

three nights' accommodation, spa access and a session

of your choice at Surf Sanctuary.

surfsanctuary.co.uk

Also try...

Outer Reef, Wales

Established in 1999, this friendly surf, stand-uppaddleboarding

and kayaking centre in Pembrokeshire

offers classes for all ages and abilities. It also offers

adventures such as coasteering and activity holiday

packages, which include accommodation.

outerreefsurfschool.com

Saltburn Surf, North Yorkshire

Saltburn Surf School has been teaching for nearly

40 years; its ‘beginner's experience’ offers dry land

instruction on the beach and a thorough safety

briefing, followed by at least one full hour in the sea

with a qualified and experienced instructor. Longer surf

courses and kit hire are also available.

saltburn-surf.co.uk


Learn to hook a fish

Ballynahinch Castle Hotel, Ireland

One of Ireland's finest castle hotels, Ballynahinch

sits within a sprawling 700-acre estate in the heart

of Connemara. Thanks to its diverse system of

interconnected loughs and rivers, it offers some of

the very best of fly-fishing in the country. Guests can

enjoy a half or a full day’s fly-fishing tutorial, where

they’ll learn how to set up their tackle correctly,

select a fly, cast competently and more, before being

taken to the river to put their skills into practice, and

perhaps even catch a salmon or sea trout.

ballynahinch-castle.com

Also try...

Lime Wood, Hampshire

Set in the heart of the stunning New Forest National

Park, this five-star hotel is just a short cast away from

the famous rivers Test, Itchen and Avon.

The hotel can organise an introduction to fly-fishing

and private tuition, as well as exclusive access to

some of the most sought after private-estate flyfishing

in the world.

limewoodhotel.co.uk

Learn to let your creative

juices flow

Newlyn School of Art, Cornwall

Artists have flocked to the Cornish town of Newlyn

since the early 1880s, drawn by the beautiful coastal

landscapes and famous light. Today, Newlyn School

of Art offers over 25 different courses taught by

some of the most exciting artists working in the

county. Founded by local artist Henry Garfit in

2011, this dynamic art school welcomes pupils of

all levels. Short courses range in length from a

weekend through to one week, and focus on the likes

of Cornish landscapes and seascapes, portraiture,

colour, the human form, and more. Stay nearby at

stylish townhouse hotel Chapel House, or at the

aptly named Artist Residence.

newlynartschool.co.uk

Also try...

The Fife Arms, Scotland

This boutique hotel in the Highlands is home to over

16,000 antiques and artworks by world-renowned

artists, from Pablo Picasso to Lucian Freud. Here,

guests can explore their own artistic abilities too,

thanks to a choice of ‘creative pursuits’, which

include wild sketching, landscape photography,

creative writing, tartan design and more.

thefifearms.com

Glebe House, South Devon

At this boutique guesthouse, restaurant and 15-acre

smallholding in the heart of East Devon, guests

can head out on the open sea on a private guided

mackerel-fishing trip with seasoned skipper Paul.

Upon return, a three-course seafood supper is served

on the beach.

glebehousedevon.co.uk


Learn to be at one

with nature

The Newt, Somerset

With acres of stunning gardens,

woodland, farmland and cyder

orchards to explore, this glorious

country estate and elegant hotel is a

nature lover’s paradise. Inspired by the

land, history and culture of Somerset,

The Newt runs a seasonal programme

of workshops and events; learn the

basics of garden design, beekeeping,

dried flower and grass arranging,

mushroom foraging, and more.

Set within its world-famous gardens,

it runs several popular, hands-on

horticultural courses too, where guests

can learn how to plant and prune

correctly.

thenewtinsomerset.com

Also try...

Llys Meddyg, Wales

At this beautiful hotel and restaurant

in Pembrokeshire, nature enthusiasts

can explore the stunning local estuary,

beaches and hedgerows in a fun and

informative guided-foraging trip,

learning how to safely identify and

gather edible finds, before preparing

and cooking a foraged feast.

llysmeddyg.com

The Royal Horticultural Society,

various locations

The UK's leading gardening charity,

the RHS, has five stunning gardens

across the country, all of which offer

a huge variety of courses that cater

for first-time gardeners through to the

exceptionally green fingered. Learn

how to create a wildlife pond, grow

veg, plant beautiful containers and

much more.

rhs.org.uk


Learn to cook up a storm

Le Manoir aux Quat'Saisons, Oxfordshire

The on-site cookery school at Raymond Blanc’s

luxury country hotel is considered one of the very

best in the world. Courses are suitable for all

levels, from half-day introductions to residential

programmes, dinner party masterclasses,

patisserie, ‘kitchen secrets’ and more. Many

courses focus on recipes important to the famous

French gastronome himself, showcasing dishes

that inspired him to become the Michelinstarred

chef he is today. The ‘Maman Blanc’

course is hugely popular, featuring a selection of

Raymond's mother's much-loved recipes.

belmond.com

Also try...…

Rick Stein's Cookery School, Cornwall:

If you’d like to pick up some seafood cooking

skills, then where better to do it than

overlooking the beautiful Camel Estuary in

Padstow? At Rick Stein's Cookery School,

visitors can learn the secrets of some of the

celebrity seafood chef’s famous recipes in a

series of fun, hands-on cookery courses and

one-dish workshops using incredibly fresh

produce.

rickstein.com/cookery-school

The Grand, York

The state-of-the-art cookery school at this

beautiful five-star hotel, with its bifolding

doors and sleek glass panelling, is undeniably

impressive. It's aimed at home cooks of all

abilities; choose from a varied schedule of

express, half-day, full-day and three-day

classes, covering everything from modern

British dishes to authentic Asian cuisine.

thegrandyork.co.uk/cookery-school


IMAGES © GORDON SCAMMELL / HARRY WADE / BARRY MURPHY /

Learn to take the reins

Lucknam Park, Wiltshire

The equestrian centre at this sumptuous countryhouse

hotel is home to 35 lovely horses of mixed size

and capability and caters for complete beginners,

as well as more proficient riders wishing to increase

their skill. Enjoy escorted hacks around the stunning

500-acre estate or longer rides through the beautiful

Cotswold countryside. There are also several

particularly friendly ponies that are perfect for

younger guests.

lucknampark.co.uk/equestrian

Also try...

Stag Lodge Stables, London

Situated right on the edge of London's Richmond

Park, Stag Lodge Stables is a unique and truly

beautiful place to learn to ride. It offers lessons and

courses for children and adults of all ages from three

upwards, as well as group hacks across the historic

Royal Park.

staglodgestables.com

Gleneagles, Scotland

The 50-acre equestrian centre at this magnificent

hotel offers various horse-riding lessons and

experiences for guests at all levels, from ages four

and up. Children can enjoy ‘Own a Pony’ sessions,

while the surrounding heather-clad mountains

provide an unforgettable backdrop for exploring the

Scottish countryside on horseback.

gleneagles.com

The best of the rest...

▶ Lavish Lake District hotel The Samling

has recently rebuilt their picture-perfect

private jetty on Lake Windermere; here,

guests can take part in guided wild swims.

thesamlinghotel.co.uk

▶ Beautiful Cotswolds retreat Thyme

has a diverse calendar of classes and

workshops, ranging from cooking lessons

and flower arranging, to soap making,

painting and more.

thyme.co.uk

▶ At Colwith Farm, Cornwall's first ploughto-bottle

distillery, guests can learn how

to distil their very own bespoke spirit at its

dedicated Gin and Vodka School.

colwithfarmdistillery.co.uk

▶ With two unique locations in London,

Petersham Nurseries provides a

picturesque setting to enjoy a carefully

curated selection of gardening, floristry,

and cookery classes.

petershamnurseries.com

▶ At trendy concept hotel Birch in

Hertfordshire, guests can take part in a

variety of workshops, from pottery and

painting to baking, foraging, candle

making and more, all within a strikingly

reimagined Georgian house.

birchcommunity.com


To the

MANOR BORN

One of Britain’s most exciting chefs, Ricki Weston reveals what’s next for

his immersive dining experience at Whatley Manor Hotel & Spa’s Michelinstar

restaurant The Dining Room and how he likes to keep diners guessing

Text by Chantal Haines

Ricki Weston stands at the pass of the expansive

and gleaming kitchen of The Dining Room,

casting a masterful eye over his showstopping

dishes. His kitchen is a flurry of hushed activity –

there is no shouting nor clamouring – just a confident, quickfooted

buzz honed by the cool, calm executive chef. “I don’t

like combative kitchens. You don’t need to shout and holler.

I like my team to be focused and creative,” Ricki says.

A rising star of modern British gastronomy, Ricki

was appointed executive chef of Whatley Manor Hotel

& Spa’s Michelin-star restaurant The Dining Room in

2022, having been part of the team at Whatley Manor

for over three years prior to that. Young, ambitious, and

experimental, Ricki continues to elevate Whatley Manor’s

multicourse menu at The Dining Room – and while tasting

menus can sometimes overpromise and underperform,

Ricki’s creation is undoubtedly one of the finest culinary

experiences across the British Isles.

“Tasting menus are so much more than just putting a

menu on a piece of paper. These days, guests are looking

for that immersive experience, something that is different

to what other people do,” says Ricki.

Ensconced behind buttery Cotswold-stone walls,

the hotel's immaculate lawns, tinkling waterlily ponds

and Grade-II-listed manor house trailed in ivy, climbing

roses and wisteria is picture-book perfect – a decadent

hideaway one would send an out-of-towner to if you

wanted to epitomise English country-hotel elegance in

a snapshot. Add to this, Ricki’s dining tour de force and

guests are left wanting for nothing.

Diners embarking on the tasting menu at Whatley

Manor begin with drinks served overlooking the gardens

or in the flower-festooned drawing room. Guests are

delivered a brief menu hinting at what is to come…

‘scallop, cucumber, trout roe’, and ‘lamb, asparagus,

black olive’ pique interest on our visit.

Ricki and his team create a unique sense of occasion

from the very first morsels – with the amuse bouche

served in the gleaming kitchen itself. An exhilarating

peek behind the curtain, it's an experience where diners

can talk to the chefs as they walk you through the small

bites – in our case, a delectable array of nibbles including

lobster, potato and turbot skirt, and a fantastic beetroot

suet tart served on smoking, aromatic pine needles.


“Guests start their journey with us in the kitchen having

a few little bites. It’s an exciting part of what we can offer,

as guests get the chance to come into the kitchen and see

the chefs and ask questions about the food and the concept

of the menu. I think it’s a memorable start, as it adds to the

occasion and helps to deliver an unforgettable evening.”

Tasting style and seasons

Ricki describes his style at Whatley as British-influenced with

classical cooking techniques. “We try to source as much as

we can from the UK, utilising the seasons as a benchmark

for the menu. We are lucky enough to have a beautiful stateof-the-art

kitchen that runs completely on electric power

situated just outside of the restaurant, and we use as much

as we can from our garden.”

The kitchen gardens, particularly during summer, are

joyful and open for guests to wander. On our visit we were

greeted by a canopy of delicate trailing sweet peas in bloom

alongside beds brimming with rainbows of chard, plumes of

lettuce and bright, plentiful courgettes.

“When guests sit down, they can look out on to the

gardens and see different produce that appears throughout

the evening,” Ricki adds.

“A couple of dishes that I really like currently are the

Jacob's ladder with smoked eel, and the plum dessert that

we finish with. The Jacob's ladder course uses the short rib of

the cow and incorporates a couple of classical techniques to

bring out the richness of the beef and contrast this with the


FIRST PAGE:

EXECUTIVE CHEF

RICKI WESTON

FORAGING FOR WILD

GARLIC

CLOCKWISE FROM

LEFT: THE KITCHEN

GARDEN; JACOB'S

LADDER SMOKED

EEL, PARMESAN,

CONSOMMÉ; BIKES

ARE AVAILABLE

FOR GUESTS; AGED

DUCK RATATOUILLE';

STATE-OF-THE-ART

KITCHEN

NEXT PAGE, LEFT

TO RIGHT: THE

HERBACEOUS

GARDEN; AN

ELEGANT CLASSIC

ROOM; RICKI

WESTON

LAST PAGE: A

SUMPTUOUS

BEDROOM SUITE;

MUSHROOM WITH

AGED BALSAMIC;

WHATLEY MANOR

HOTEL & SPA

“

Guests start their journey with us in the kitchen having a few little bites... it

adds to the occasion and helps to deliver an unforgettable evening

”

smokiness of the eel. When we did

the first illustration of the menu it was

important for me to celebrate real

local ingredients.

The cows are farmed next to

the hotel by a farmer called Tom

Wakefield who we have a great

relationship with. It’s a small herd of

cattle which are 100 per cent grassfed

organic Aberdeen Angus and

the meat is phenomenal and really

showcases the local aspect of the

menu we have created.”

“The plum course is the one dish

that we have kept on the menu since

the first week. For me it’s a perfect

way to end the experience, combining

sweet, salty and acidity all in one.

We preserve plums throughout the

year to be able to have it on yearround.

This is another part of the

ethos here – to reduce as much waste

as possible. Whether that’s through

fermentation or vinegars using the

stones of the plum – everything is

looked at as a possible product that

we can use in one form or another.”

This mindful approach saw The

Dining Room’s sustainable practices

rewarded the new Green Michelin

star in January 2021 – an accolade

it retained in 2022 alongside just 23

restaurants in the UK.


Inspiration and precision

Prior to Whatley Manor, Ricki spent

three years at the two-star Michelin

restaurant Sat Bains in Nottingham

– an experience that is etched in his

memory.

“Sat Bains will always be one of

my biggest inspirations. The intensity

and understanding of flavours and

ethos in that restaurant is a massive

part of the chef I am today. Such

forward-thinking and uniqueness

makes it one of the best restaurants in

the country.

“I have always remembered

how Sat [Bains] used to compare

aspects of a tasting menu to a

theatre production – meaning you

have to consider how to keep viewers

engaged for two or three hours and

moderate the tempo of the service

and keep the experience entertaining

and surprising.

“That’s why sometimes it's very

quick between courses and at some

points we slow things right down and

tie in a more elaborate wine service.

Or, we dress and reveal a dish in a

certain way, utilising not just taste but

scent, sight, and sound.”

Thus, every course at The Dining

Room is skillfully presented and

impeccably designed – whether

unveiled with a dramatic puff of

aromatic smokiness, or with intricate

placement of cerise pink singular

petals from the garden – no dish is

without a level of drama, intrigue,

thought and excitement to make it

stand out.

Flavours, textures and tempo

all play integral parts to Ricki’s

cooking. “Quite a few of the dishes

are inspired by nostalgic memories of

my childhood and favourite dishes,”

Ricki says. “I love food that evokes

memories. Take our mussel tart, for

example. A big part of my childhood

was going to the coast and walking

past the fish markets and smelling

all the produce and sitting on the

seafront tasting cockles, mussels and

having all those salty sea days.

I think this dish imparts those kind of

memories for diners, too.”

New for 2023

Spring 2023 sees the launch of the

new tasting menu at The Dining

Room, including tweaks to muchloved

dishes and some newcomers.

“The new menu is massively inspired

by my own perceptions and what food

“

Quite a few of the dishes are inspired by nostalgic memories of my childhood

and favourite dishes... I love food that evokes memories

”


means to me. We are continuously

looking at new dishes and ingredients

that fit within the menu style that

we have created. Everyone in my

kitchen has fantastic experience and

knowledge that is brought to the table

when we develop a new menu. We are

also looking more closely at evolving

the guest journey throughout the

evening and thinking about how we

can make their experience even more

personal for each guest that walks

through the door.”

“We are using brill as our new

fish course, which is such a great

product. The freshness and sweetness

of the fish is cooked with an English

sparkling wine and scallop mousse

and works beautifully. We wrap the

whole fillet of the fish with truffles

from Zak at Wiltshire Truffles, which

gives the dish great contrast and

earthiness. It’s a dish that showcases

brilliant English ingredients.

“Field to plate and seasonal

produce will always be a focus. As

a chef, inspiration comes from all

over. I think the chef Poul Andrias

Ziska in the Faroe Islands is amazing

when it comes to produce. Using

ingredients from around the island,

techniques that are passed down

through generations and having

achieved two Michelin stars in such a

remote place with limited supply is a

testament I think to his understanding

of ingredients and habitat of the

islands.”

Eco escapism

Amid the grounds and luxuriously

appointed bedrooms of Whatley

Manor, things are going from

strength to strength.

The hotel has become the first

countryside luxury hotel in the

UK to achieve Silver accreditation

through EarthCheck, a leading

business advisory group specialising

in sustainability for the travel and

tourism industry. Whatley has also a

host of other awards to its name from

‘Best Sustainable Achievement’ at

the 2022 Boutique Hotelier Awards

to a recent Condé Nast Johansens

Sustainability Award.

Much more work was required

than simply replacing the odd


single-use plastic (though this has also been done in

every guest room). General manager Sue Williams says

the Earthcheck accreditation is the fruit of several years

of diligent work across the hotel, including overhauling

the waste management, utilities and supplier

relationships.

“We are proof that you can be a five-star luxurious

destination but also be environmentally positive,” Sue

adds.

The proof, they say, is in the pudding and every

inch of Whatley feels individual and sumptuous. Its

award-winning eco-conscious Aquarias Spa features

a large hydro pool; thermal experiences, including

a tepidarium and steam grotto; plus an outdoor

pool space and a plethora of bespoke and high-end

treatments. The spa also offers a floatation pod and is

set in blissful surrounds.

The hotel has deluxe bedrooms and suites

overlooking the gardens and courtyards, meaning

guests are spoilt for choice. Welcome touches – such as

the home-baked shortbread awaiting you in your room,

walking maps to explore the grounds, and seasonal

flowers – make a stay all the more 'boutique' in feel.

Ricki also oversees the afternoon tea offering and the

hotel’s more informal Grey’s Brasserie, but be sure to

save room for the menu experience at The Dining Room

– it will not disappoint.

Ricki Weston’s top

local spots...

▶ Stroud Farmers Market takes place

every Saturday and is a multi-award

winning market that offers a rich variety

of local produce from farmers, growers

and producers in the Five Valleys in

Gloucestershire.

▶ Malmesbury has its own farmers and

local artisan market every Friday from 9am

to 3pm, so you can always stop off to take

a stroll and enjoy the range of stalls ahead

of checking into Whatley Manor.

▶ Whatley Manor is located next door to

Tracklements, where you will be able to

see where they make the world-renowned

condiments, as well as taste and buy them

to enjoy at home.


Carpenter’s Cottage,

Tremaine Manor, Looe

Find your special place

From luxury contemporary barn conversions to charming thatched cottages,

we’ve hand-picked the very best to bring you holiday memories to treasure.

A portfolio of over

600 luxury, self-catering

holiday properties

in the UK and

Northern Ireland

01386 897 959

ruralretreats.co.uk

Holistic

Highs

Whether you want to take the plunge in an ice bath, try out

some high-tech treatments, or fancy a spot of forest bathing,

we discover some of the UK’s top retreats and unique spa

experiences that will nourish mind, body and soul




Coastal

romance

Perched among the clifftops

overlooking the sweeping sandy

beach of Mawgan Porth, at North

Cornwall’s stylish eco hotel Scarlet,

curious couples can embark on

a ‘Rediscover Journey’ together,

designed to help synchronise

energies. You’ll start by setting

your intentions in an Ayurvedic

consultation before unwinding

with a bathing ritual such as a

rhassoul, or a session in one of the

stunning clifftop hot tubs. Next,

a guided meditation or sound

experience, followed by either

a couple’s massage lesson or a

synchronised treatment to leave

you feeling connected and in tune

with one another. The finishing

touch? A shared Epsom salt bath

with a glass of English sparkling

wine, and full use of the stunning

spa facilities.

From £350 per couple,

scarlethotel.co.uk


And breathe

The Botanical Bothy is a new

exclusive booking space at dreamy

Cotswolds escape Thyme. It's home

to a unique treatment designed to

promote restorative calm within

both body and mind. The private

beautifully designed cabin features

sleek warmed seating and a tranquil

private garden and veranda,

complete with a roaring fireplace

and two show-stopping baths,

side-by-side, for herbal soaks. The

treatment – the Bertioli Ritual – is a

combination of guided breathwork,

lymphatic body combing and

pressure-point techniques that

concentre on the areas of the

body that hold the most tension.

A cleansing hair wash and head

massage completes the experience,

ensuring that guests leave feeling

deeply relaxed and equipped with

breathing techniques to use at

home.

£225pp (solo) or £195pp for

couples, thyme.co.uk


A celestial reset

In West Sussex, Ockenden Manor

Hotel’s ‘Full Moon & Fabulous’

retreats are scheduled to take

place during the full moon; a

time when we are said to be more

receptive and open to inspiration.

Harnessing the power of nature,

the five elements and the moon,

this celestial-inspired two-night

experience is led by Swedish yoga

instructor Helena Skoog, and

involves a combination of yoga

and meditation sessions, forest

bathing, i-sopod floatation,

aromatherapy massage, seasonal

food and more, as well as

accommodation and use of the

hotel’s award-winning spa.

From £883pp,

hshotels.co.uk/ockenden-manor


Escape to award-winning Hoar Cross Hall, nestled in the idyllic

Staffordshire countryside, with an indulgent Spa Stay or Multi-Night Retreat.

Let our historic Hall host your spacation to remember.

Take the plunge

“The cold is our warm friend,

our mirror and our teacher,”

says cold-water guru, Wim Hof.

Cold-water immersion is said to

improve both mental and physical

performance, so if you're curious,

then head to the Coach House Spa

at sumptuous Surrey Hills hotel,

Beaverbrook. At its one-day Wim

Hof Workshop, guests are taught

the three pillars of the extreme

athlete’s now famous method

– breathing technique, cold

exposure, and commitment – by

a certified WHM instructor. After

learning the principles of breathing

for stress management and

breath-holding techniques, guests

are then guided in the practice of

‘controlled hyperventilation’ before

sinking into a bracing six-minute

ice bath. Brrrrrr…

Prices start from £250pp,

beaverbrook.co.uk


Elemental

invigoration

Set within 380 acres of parkland

just outside Belfast, the unique

Thermal Spa Village at luxury

hotel Galgorm is the first of its kind

in Ireland. It features an extensive

selection of hot tubs, heated

pools, steam rooms, saunas and

more, all set on the banks of the

spectacular River Maine. The

invigorating Beltane Experience

has been designed to stimulate all

the senses using fire, air and water;

relax al fresco by a roaring firepit

before enjoying a dip in one of the

picture-perfect hot tubs by the

flowing river’s edge. Afterwards,

cool down in the spa’s -10°C Snow

Cabin (where snow falls every

30 minutes) or warm up with a

Celtic Sauna Infusion – a cleansing

aromatherapy experience led by a

sauna master.

Spa packages start at £69pp,

galgorm.com


LUXURY HOLIDAYS IN NORTH CORNWALL

–

Hand-picked properties for inspiring interiors, unique features, and

amazing views; all served up alongside the spectacular coast.

www.shorestays.co.uk

A gut feeling

It’s said that good health starts

with a happy gut. Set on the

beautiful Goodwood Estate in

Sussex, this five-day holistic retreat

is a gut health overhaul designed

by gut-health expert and celebrity

nutritionist, Stephanie Moore.

Drawing on Goodwood’s ‘fieldto-fork’

organic food philosophy

and the estate’s natural beauty to

heal and re-energise, the retreat

features a full body-composition

analysis and private nutritional

consultation, specialist treatments,

daily group talks and guided walks,

plus all food and drink and five

nights at The Goodwood Hotel. If

you’re not ready to commit to the

full five-day programme, there’s a

taster day available too.

£2,225 per person sharing a

twin or double room, £2,600 for a

single occupancy room, taster day

£220, goodwood.com

Hi-tech treatments

Manchester’s five-star hotel, The Lowry, has launched

‘RE:TREAT' – the UK’s first technology led spa. Whether

you fancy submerging yourself in a sensory deprivation

tank (a dark, soundproof cocoon filled with saltwater,

said to increase wellbeing and creativity in under an

hour), switching off in a meditation pod, or slipping into

the freezing temperatures of a cryotherapy chamber

(said to help promote sleep and lymphatic drainage), this

smart, high-tech space offers a combination of cuttingedge

treatments, while in-house experts are on hand to

perform the likes of IV drips and ultrasound scans.

Packages start from £85pp, thelowryhotel.com


Reconnect with

nature

Nestled within the New Forest

National Park, Herb House - the

award-winning spa at luxury

hotel Lime Wood – has created

a selection of ‘ReWild Yourself’

experiences. Inspired by the rhythms

of the seasons, these new naturepowered

retreats and spa days have

been designed to instil a sense of

calm and serenity. Enjoy guided

forest bathing in ancient woodland,

calming yoga classes in an aromatic

herb garden, outdoor fitness and

breathwork sessions, soothing herbpowered

treatments, seasonal food,

and more, plus plenty of time to

unwind in the stunning spa.

Rewilding retreats start at

£225pp, limewoodhotel.co.uk

Spa news...

• The brand-new spa at landmark

London hotel Claridge’s features a

streamlined swimming pool, steam

rooms, saunas and seven luxurious

treatment rooms. Designed by

interior architect André Fu, the

space is inspired by his own visits

to Japanese temples and Zen

gardens in Kyoto.

→ claridges.co.uk

• Award-winning Nottinghamshire

day-spa retreat Eden Hall and

beautiful Staffordshire spa hotel

Hoar Cross Hall have recently

revealed an all-new treatment

menu available at both properties.

Based on three all-encompassing

pillars – radiance, revive and

renewal – each two-hour treatment

has been expertly designed to

leave guests feeling rejuvenated

and relaxed.

→ baronseden.com/hoar-cross-hall

• Spanning 2,500 square metres,

the sleek, state-of-the-art spa at

the recently opened Fairmont

Windsor Park is briming with


CLOCKWISE FROM

BELOW LEFT:

CRYOTHERAPY

AT GLENEAGLES

TOWNHOUSE;

STATE-OF-THE-ART SPA

AT FAIRMONT WINDSOR

PARK; CARDEN PARK

HOTEL RELAXATION

ROOM

high-tec innovation. There are 18

treatment rooms, a hammam, a

20-metre indoor pool, a Japanese

ashiyu foot-ritual bath and the first

multi-person cryotherapy chamber

in the UK, plus pretty cherry

blossom trees by the pool.

→ fairmont-windsorpark.com

• The hotly anticipated Yorkshire

Spa Retreat is now open. The new

£4.5-million holiday resort includes

a nature-inspired spa, with a wildswimming

pond, a sauna, a hydro

pool, a Himalayan salt chamber

and more.

→ yorkshire-spa-retreat.co.uk

• With a show-stopping heated

outdoor infinity pool overlooking

the hotel’s very own sandy

beach, the recently enlarged and

enhanced C Bay Spa at Carbis Bay

Hotel near St Ives has unveiled

beautiful new treatment and

changing rooms, and a range of

new treatments using luxurious

products by Bamford and organic

seaweed brand Voya.

→ carbisbayhotel.co.uk

• In Cheshire, the new English

Country Spa Garden at The Manor

House Hotel is both pretty and

incredibly well appointed – swing

lazily in one of the hanging day

beds, unwind in the sunken

hydrotherapy tub, or warm up in

the herbal potting shed sauna.

→ manorhousealsager.com

• Set within the former Bank of

Scotland building on Edinburgh’s

historic St Andrew Square, The

Gleneagles Townhouse opened

in 2022. In ‘The Strong Rooms’,

located within the old bank vault

itself, guests have access to a

cryotherapy chamber, an infrared

sauna, a state-of-the-art class

studios, treatments and more.

→ gleneagles.com/townhouse

• The spa at Staffordshire

hotel Moddershall Oaks has

designed a new treatment

exclusively for those experiencing

hormonal changes, such as the

perimenopause and menopause.

The Pause & Renew 50-minute

treatment includes a cool

compress, a soothing skin mask,

mindfulness and more.

→ moddershalloaks.com

• The multi-award-winning

£10-million spa at Cheshire’s

Carden Park Hotel has launched

a brand-new private spa package,

meaning that you can have the

entire 4,500-square-metre spa all

to yourself.

→ cardenpark.co.uk


Dog-friendly

ADVENTURE

A week spent in a caravan in the northern Lake District:

'bagging Wainwrights' (climbing Lake District fells),

teaching a pup to paddleboard, being swallowed

whole by mountain air and not even minding

Text by Phoebe Reeves


PADDLEBOARDING WITH WILBUR

It’s three-something in the morning and a thousand

crickets are dancing on the fibreglass roof by the banks

of Derwentwater.

We’re in our home on wheels where we have spent

seven sweet days of spring marvelling at the moonlit dash

to the shower block and the unspoken communion that

happens between us campers as we compare awnings and

what’s being cooked at breakfast.

There are three of us. Me, my partner and the goodest

boy: Wilbur a vizsla, who is five years old.

Each morning, we ready ourselves for the day’s

expedition on deckchairs strategically placed in front of

an electric heater and wear sherpa-lined dry robes. Each

night, we sup on yellow rice poured unceremoniously from

a packet, play rock-paper-scissors and smear more butter

on the cob than there’s lime mortar on the slate stone.

There’s red wine in plastic goblets (notes of plum,

cracked black pepper), raspberry kombucha in a tin, and

clotted cream rice pudding from the ‘Waitrose of the

North’.

And so, our first adventure, to Buttermere. With boots

triple laced as Dad had taught, a dry bag filled with

honest fare from the village, and a compass that no one

really knew how to use (but brought the expeditionary feel

by the bucketloads), we pushed into a hinterland all of our

own.

We got lost almost immediately. One local and an “I

told you so” later, we began a scramble up the Wainwright

and pootled around the lake. We were gobbling up

contour lines like modern day Pac-Men.

At the craggy tip top of Rannerdale Knotts – where

Wilbur flirted with the boundaries of safe over-the-edge

viewing and I set about a lecture on the poetic Romantics

– there was just enough time for a steaming brew poured

from the flask and a fondant egg or two for good measure.

With sights and snouts set on food, we tumbled down

the hillock on a flattened ridge and cobbled together a

questionable retelling of all that we had learnt about the

Norman invasion against the Buttermere Cumbrians;

part National Trust, part native folklore, part wide-eyed

conjecture.

An hour or so later, we flumped on a picnic bench

outside a tea room with its beautiful corner quoins.

There was a banquet of Stilton pie and mash, and a

farmer’s collie who showed her belly for pastry crusts. We

made moustaches out of coconut ice cream and coffee

foam while two blue tits got in a big, talon-wielding fight.

We made frank admissions that we might like to stay

awhile longer or even forever.

The next day, it was time for paddleboarding. There

was a touch of sogginess about as we did an accidental


‘

We are silly for the Lakes, all three of

us – those spired and swollen fells as

far as the eye can see...

’

circumnavigation of Derwentwater whistling our favourite

holiday song in tandem, until we found a secludedenough

launch site. It was empty but for a group of five or

six wild swimmers who were doing the dry-robe wobble

back to their cars like a band of sodden caterpillars.

One of us inflated the paddleboard, while the other

two scooped up waterlogged sticks and made serious

business of being idle in the shallows. Having plucked up

the courage for paddleboarding on a windblown lake with

a 30-kilo dog, we pushed away safely from the pebbles.

I paddled out flat. I made bearings westwards. I

scooped the lake away with arms as suited for the job as

liquorice sticks – but I could not make the little pontoon

go anywhere but northward towards a scattering flock of

mohican goosanders. After that, I took to treating the oar

like a lanky anchor, jabbing it into the silt and schlepping


Other activities to enjoy on the water...

Hire a rowing boat, Swallows and Amazons style

Hire a motorboat or traditional rowing boat from

Derwentwater Foreshore, or take a boat trip with

various hop-off points, such as Lodore Jetty and the

beautiful Lodore Falls waterfall, and Lingholm Estate,

worth a visit for its octagonal walled garden.

Glide in true ecofriendly fashion on a steampowered

yacht on Coniston Water

With its opulent saloons and open-air decks, the steam

yacht Gondola is an impressive example of Victorian

engineering – and a magical experience.

Swimming adventures at Kailpot Crag, Ullswater

Wade into the lake and jump off rocks in a beautiful

setting at the foot of Hallin Fell under the guidance of

cold-water swimming specialist Colin Hill.

myself through the lake like a wooden spoon through

copper-pot fudge.

By now, we had a little audience of two pensioners,

who were clasping palms together and pointing, as new

babies do, at ‘that dog on the paddleboard,’ and with that

I became so full of hot air that I practically blew back to

shore. It dawned on me, as sure as eggs is eggs, I’d never

forget this day.

Other days, we dozed under blankets while droplets

came down and looked at the moon and the neighbours’

dinners through binoculars. We read books and made

a life so lovely, we would never want to leave it. We did

heads-back laughing and swam in Bassenthwaite and

smiled at the places we’d stayed with the people we love.

We made a video diary on the ascent of Hallin Fell and

committed the rest to memory.

We are silly for the Lakes, all three of us – those spired

and swollen fells as far as the eye can see; and valley walls

that none but the Herdwick sheep can muster. When we

think of our time in the Lake District, we grin like the cats

that got the cream or perhaps, in Wilbur’s case, the dog

that’s got the bone.


Beautiful

BATHROOMS

From fluffy towels and fragrant toiletries to spacious showers

and enormous bathtubs (sometimes even two…), there are few

greater pleasures in life than a luxurious hotel bathroom.

We discover some of the UK’s most sumptuous spaces where

you can get squeaky clean in style


1The Ark Royal Signature Suite at

Malmaison, Newcastle

If you don’t want to waste precious time

waiting for your travelling companion

to finish in the bath, then plump for the

sophisticated Signature Suite at Malmaison

Newcastle, because here you’ll each get a tub

of your own. This stunning open-plan room has

the bathroom at its centre, separated from the

bedroom by smart glass walls. Other highlights

include a spacious walk-in rain shower and

vast windows offering fabulous views over

Newcastle’s Millennium Bridge, which can be

enjoyed from the tub(s). Why not pop a bottle

and soak it all up, side by side.

The Ark Royal Signature Suite starts at £269

per night, malmaison.com/locations/newcastle


2

Bedroom 2 at At the

Chapel, Somerset

In the centre of trendy

Somerset town Bruton, At

the Chapel is a stunning, Grade-IIlisted

17th-century former chapel

that has been creatively converted

into a truly beautiful hotel. The eight

luxurious bedrooms here carefully

combine contemporary, minimalist

interior design with some of the

historic building’s original features; no

two rooms are the same, and so each

bathroom is also totally unique. Our

favourite is located on the first floor,

in Bedroom 2; here, the sleek and

serene space is all white marble and

clean lines, with a large walk-in shower

and a huge oval-shaped freestanding

bath sitting underneath a magnificent

19th-century lancet window. All this

plus a generous supply of heavenly

scented Bramley toiletries, made

nearby in Wiltshire.

Bedroom 2 starts at £185 per night,

atthechapel.co.uk


IMAGE © JAKE EASTHAM

4The Heron Suite at Lympstone Manor,

Devon

With spectacular views of the Exe Estuary

and the Jurassic Coast, Lympstone Manor

is an exceptional five-star country-house hotel with a

Michelin-star restaurant, a brand new outdoor pool,

and its very own vineyard. There are 21 sumptuous

guest rooms and six luxurious shepherd’s huts here, and

when it comes to beautiful bathing options, well, guests

are spoiled for choice. Several rooms have oval-shaped

baths outside on private terraces, and even some

of the shepherd’s huts have beautiful outdoor tubs

overlooking the vines. For a truly unforgettable bathing

experience, the magnificent Heron Suite’s marble

bathroom enjoys direct south-facing views across

the estuary and has not one, but two glistening gold

bathtubs, romantically positioned side by side.

Rooms start at £360 per night,

lympstonemanor.co.uk

3

The Bushby Bacon Suite at The Retreat at

Elcot Park

Named after Anthony Bushby Bacon who

owned Elcot Park in the early 19th century,

this spacious two-bedroom suite oozes opulence and

artistic glamour. Elegant and refined, the airy, whitewalled

bathroom has twin sinks, a large walk-in shower

and a show-stopping roll-top bath that sits proudly in

a large bay window. Made from marble, this clottedcream

coloured tub has been beautifully hand-painted

with intricate purple wisteria that continues on to the

surrounding walls, ‘growing’ all around the room.

Three large windows flood the space with natural light,

which bounces off the polished wood floor, antique

mahogany furniture and the elegant lily shaped golden

chandelier that hangs gracefully from the ceiling.

The Bushby Bacon Suite starts at £560 per night,

retreatelcotpark.com


IMAGE © MARK ASHBEE

5Master Bedroom at Gleneagles

Townhouse, Edinburgh

With inspiring views over Edinburgh, the

boutique bedrooms at the newly opened

Gleneagles Townhouse pack some serious interiordesign

punch. The rooms pair Georgian elegance

with contemporary comfort, and guests can relish in

regally high ceilings, king-sized beds, wooden floors,

antique rugs and panelled walls, and some very

gorgeous bathrooms too. Master bedrooms have a

separate stylish bathing area hidden away behind

chic wooden screens; here, luxurious green marble

flooring and original artwork provide the perfect

backdrop for a large roll-top slipper bath, complete

with gold taps, and a freestanding marble sink with

wonderful views over the historic St Andrew Square.

Rooms start at £495 per night,

gleneagles.com/townhouse


7The Cabin at Settle, Norfolk

Home to three beautifully

designed and decorated

accommodation spaces, Settle

is nestled within blissfully private parkland

in South Norfolk. Combining enormous

windows, reclaimed marble and aged

timber, the stunning bathroom in the

lakeside Cabin is home to a sizeable

shower, a porcelain basin and a vast

stone egg bath, perfectly positioned for

soaking up the surroundings, both inside

and out. Tumbling houseplants, soft

towels and La-Eva toiletries add to the

stylish serenity of this gorgeous space.

Outside lies another picturesque bathing

option – a wood-heated bath set on a

private deck overlooking a rather magical

lily pad-covered lake.

The Cabin is £1,080 for 3 nights,

settlenorfolk.co.uk

6

The Acacia Suite at Pennyhill Park, Surrey

If high-tech innovation floats your bathroom boat,

then check yourself in to Pennyhill Park in Surrey.

It features an award-winning spa, a Michelin-star

restaurant, and its guestrooms are just as deluxe. In the

state-of-the-art Acacia Suite, guests can take a shower

lying down. Perfect for those looking for something more

invigorating than a bath but with a similar amount of effort

required, simply lie flat on the heated mosaic surface and

enjoy six different waterjets being simultaneously powered at

different parts of the body. This cutting-edge bathroom also

features soothing blue lighting, a large walk-in shower and a

waterproof ‘Aquavision’ TV.

The Acacia Suite starts at £565 per night,

exclusive.co.uk/pennyhill-park


A LUXURY HOTEL IN THE HEART OF BATH

–

Stay and experience the thermal spring waters and magnificent Georgian architecture

in this special Unesco World Heritage destination

www.thegainsboroughbathspa.co.uk

8Deluxe Beach Lodge at Carbis

Bay Hotel, Cornwall

Just around the bay from the

artistic town of St Ives, Carbis

Bay Estate is a super luxurious five-star hotel

and spa that sits directly on the sweeping

white sands of its very own 25-acre Blue

Flag beach. Its beautifully appointed Deluxe

Beach Lodges, which sleep eight, maximise

their seaside location and the panoramic

coastal views at every turn; even the plush

marble bathrooms offer stunning copper

roll-top baths and walk-in showers that

directly overlook the turquoise-blue bay.

There aren’t many places where you can

grab a glass of Cornish fizz, lie back, and

spot dolphins from the comfort of the tub...

Beach Lodges start at £1,200 per night,

carbisbayhotel.co.uk

9

Rock View Suite at The

Cashel Palace, County

Tipperary

In the heart of Ireland, just an

hour's drive east from Limerick, Cashel

Palace is a grand Palladian manor that

has been splendidly reimagined into

a luxurious hotel, thanks to a recent

multimillion-euro renovation. For a specialoccasion

stay, the two elegant Rock

View Suites on the first floor of the main

house feature high ceilings, a romantic

four-poster bed, an original fireplace and

soothing muted tones. The sumptuous

en-suite marble bathroom is as pretty as a

picture, with framed botanical paintings,

smart toiletries from French brand Memo,

fluffy towels and an indulgently deep

marble bath that offers fabulous views of

the famed Rock of Cashel.

Rock View Suites start at €729 per

night, cashelpalacehotel.ie


IMAGE © JAKE EASTHAM / MICHELLE CHAPLOW

Lookout at THE PIG- on the Beach, Dorset

PIG offers plenty of unique bathrooms across

its litter of stylish hotels and beautifully designed

10The bedrooms, but The Lookout at its Dorset outpost is

particularly special. Tucked away just beyond the hotel’s abundant

vegetable garden, this picture-perfect hideaway for two is in fact an

incredibly romantic two-storey dovecote, complete with thatched roof.

Inside, there’s a four-poster bed and a wood burner on the ground floor.

Head upstairs, and you’ll find the show-stopping bathroom, complete

with a monsoon shower, a velvet chaise longue, and a freestanding

bath surrounded by enormous windows, which provide gorgeous views

of the gardens and stunning Jurassic Coast beyond. And that’s not

all – there’s a statement chandelier hanging from the vaulted ceiling,

a handy telescope for boat spotting, and a second wood burner to

keep you cosy as you bathe. Grab a garden-inspired cocktail from the

minibar (it’s a tough choice between the lemon drop chili margarita and

the verbena cosmo) turn on the taps, and float away.

The Lookout starts at £605 per night, thepighotel.com


From Britain to

ANDALUCÍA

Renowned Health and Fitness Coach and Ex-Pro Triathlete, Chris Roy has

launched Active Cycling Holidays from Britain to the south of Spain, with

guided tours, for all abilities exploring some of the world’s best scenery...

Would you like to explore hidden areas that will take

your breath away on a guided cycling holiday?

Top Health and Fitness Coach, Chris Roy, spent

10 years living and training in Andalusian as a Pro

Triathlete. Regardless of your fitness level, Chris and his team of

guides have tailored a holiday that is ideal for those active holiday

enthusiasts who want to explore and enjoy this beautiful landscape

and scenery, in a warm climate.

Chris's Active Guided Cycling Holidays are for those who want

to gain fitness while exploring the south of Spain. You will be taken

from the coast near Malaga, winding your way through the orange

groves, up through the rolling hills covered in sun-soaked olive trees.

While passing through the many ancient sleepy towns and villages,

all with their own stunning views you will realise what a pleasure it is

to find such places, many of which you may not have heard of.

Andalucía is often referred to as the fruit basket of Europe.

Chris along with his team will guide you through regions, where

they spent many years living and you will see as they do, just how

inspirational these places are. You leave with a sense that you will

need to return as it feels like a postcard rather than reality.

Active Cycling Holiday guides have so much experience

between them, having been involved in Antarctic expeditions,

high altitude training camps, assessed Duke of Edinburgh awards,

been part of coast-to-coast teams, competed at the highest

level of Professional sport and gained countless hours working in

institutes of sport and top rehabilitation centres. Chris, Marta,


SPECIAL FEATURE

Carlos, Paul and Mari-Carmen will take care of you and instil a level of

happiness and worry-free peace of mind, that will enhance your active

holiday experience leaving you with a real sense of accomplishment and

satisfaction.

The 7-day cycle holidays take place in May, June, September and

October 2023, taking guests through Andalucía with plenty of cycling,

two optional explorations days visiting the “Alhambra Palace” and

“Camino de Rey”, also the trips include nutritional advice and fitness

coaching. The trips are made to be comfortable for leisure cyclists and

those that complete any outdoor activities. Male and Female Hybrid bikes

are provided following a bike fit at the start of the holiday. Plus, there are

also options to bring your own bike with discount off the holiday, and

E-bikes are also available. ◆

How to book

Everything you need including your bike

rental, luggage and journey transfers,

overnight accommodation, breakfast,

dinner and hydration are all provided.

Prices for 7 day cycle holidays, from £2,700

guidedcyclingholidays.com


Britain

In bloom

From restful gardens to festoons of colourful bulbs, the

British Isles offers floral masterclasses in some of the most

dramatic and awe-inspiring locations...

Floristry

workshops at

Armathwaite

Hall Hotel

Few venues can rival

Armathwaite Hall Hotel when

it comes to location. This

Lake District jewel is set in

400 restful acres of deer park

and woodland, bordered

by the mesmeric waters of

Bassenthwaite Lake and

framed by the magnificent

Skiddaw Mountain and Lake

District Fells. Throughout

2023, Armathwaite – a

proud member of Pride of

Britain Hotels – is offering

a range of floral workshops

in collaboration with

Cumberland Flower Farm.

Guests can enjoy a range of

seasonal courses throughout

the year – crafting fresh spring

Text by Chantal Haines

wreaths made from Cumbrian

foliage, plants, bulbs and

flowers using sustainable

techniques or creating

sumptuous midsummer

bouquets bursting with

seasonal blooms.

As autumn draws in, the

expert florists will guide

guests as they create a

stunning fall table centre;

and as December dawns, the

Cumbrian wreath workshops

will be the perfect way to

begin the festive season. The

workshops include all materials

and a delectable cream tea.

armathwaite-hall.com


Seed to

flower at Le

Manoir aux

Quat’Saisons

The kitchen gardens, grounds

and orchards of Le Manoir

aux Quat’Saisons are world

renowned – so much so that

the famed hotel and Michelinadorned

restaurant now runs

gardening and floristry courses.

The full-day and half-day

courses have been carefully

curated and are helmed by

Raymond Blanc OBE and his

team. The garden and floral

masterclasses are held at Le

Manoir aux Quat’Saisons’

Hartley Botanic glasshouse,

where guests are also treated

to a delectable working lunch.

Learn about botanicals for

cocktails, or take a masterclass

in growing your own flowers

and creating vibrant bouquets.

For garden lovers, expert

courses on growing your own

vegetables, winter pruning

or the intricacies of micro

herbs and edible flowers will

no doubt prove irresistible.

A gastronomic and exquisite

English country getaway –

Le Manoir’s 11 enchanting

gardens provide guests with a

once-in-a-lifetime experience.

belmond.com

IMAGE © PAUL WILKINSON / JENNY WOOLGAR


Gravetye

Manor garden

tours

Originally created by visionary

gardener William Robinson

in 1885, the gardens at this

luxury hotel ensconced in the

Sussex countryside are now

considered one of the most

important historic gardens in

England. Head gardener Tom

Coward and his team guides

guests through the English

countryside, showcasing the

manor’s beautiful flower and

kitchen gardens. Garden

tours take place on Mondays,

Wednesdays and Fridays from

April until October during

2023 and are available to

anyone with a lunch reservation

in the dining room or staying

at the hotel. For an immersive

culinary experience with a

green-fingered twist, book a

garden tour and private dining

experience – the garden tour

can be booked alongside a

private lunch for groups of

seven to 20 guests.

gravetyemanor.co.uk

Foraging at

Glenapp Castle

Estate

For something a little different

but still bound to the earth and

natural landscape, why not

discover the joys of foraging.

Scotland’s beautiful, bountiful

southwest is an open-air larder

of delights and, Glenapp

Castle Estate offers guests

some incredible wild flavours.

The hotel’s foraging expert,

Monica ‘Mo’ Wilde, is one of

Scotland’s leading foraging

tutors and ethnobotanists,

specialising in the use of plants,

mushrooms and seaweeds in


food, medicine and craft. She

has been teaching about wild

food for 30 years and regularly

works with leading chefs,

distilleries and bartenders.

The foraging experience

at Glenapp comprises a

fascinating half-day or fullday

adventure, where guests

learn to identify seasonal

edible goodies, such as wild

mushrooms, aromatic herbs,

seaweeds and succulent

coastal plants. The experience

includes a wide selection of

foraged tipples and tasters

and concludes with a wild-food

picnic and foraged cocktails

in the garden, woods or at the

Victorian Glasshouse.

glenappcastle.com

Floral

workshops

at Ham Yard

Hotel

Head to the rooftop of

London’s Ham Yard Hotel to

discover a world of colour and

learn from world-renowned

florist, author and designer

Willow Crossley. Willow will

take guests on a tour of the

roof gardens, identifying

seasonal flowers and herbs

and will then demonstrate

how to make a beautiful

arrangement using locally

grown, spring flowers. The

first workshop takes place in

April. Willow will reveal her tips

and tricks on how to arrange

flowers from single stems to

full arrangements and how to

work with the seasons to get

the most out of blooms all

year-round. Keep an eye on

Ham Yard’s diary of creative

workshops for more dates –

from floristry to fabled thread

embroidery.

firmdalehotels.com


BLACKTON GRANGE

AN EXCLUSIVE, SECLUDED, LUXURY HOLIDAY HOME IN THE NORTH

PENNINES AREA OF OUTSTANDING NATURAL BEAUTY

Durham’s newest luxury self

catering accommodation.

Blackton Grange is a luxury

retreat with all of the mod cons

such as private hot tub, cocktail

lounge, games room, cinema

room and so much more.

With space for up to 17 guests,

Blackton Grange is an elegant

but cosy celebration house

where you can escape and

create your own special

memories while celebrating

life’s biggest milestones.

WWW.BLACKTONGRANGE.CO.UK

Floral

creations at

Cromlix

Owned by British tennis

player, Andy Murray, Cromlix

is a Victorian Perthshire

mansion full of Scottish charm

and decadent touches. While

there is an abundance of

on-site activities to choose

from – including tennis, of

course – bespoke lessons

in flower arranging, wreath

making or table displays can

be booked on request from

April 2023. During the private

flower-arranging lessons,

guests will wander the

stunning grounds of Cromlix

and handpick a selection

of blooms, foliage and

aromatic stems, including

a selection from the tulip

beds (newly planted for 2023)

when in season. Under the

careful guidance of Sarah

Corsar (Head of the Kitchen

Garden), guests will create

beautiful bouquets and

discover a new appreciation

for the grounds and gardens

of this captivating Scottish

hideaway. Thanks to its

beautiful location, Cromlix,

a Pride of Britain hotel

member, is a perfect fit

for green-fingered guests

looking to relax and unwind.

Individual or group bookings

available from April 2023.

cromlix.com


A

York

WALK AROUND

The medieval walls of York enclose

a city that contains Roman, Viking

and Georgian architecture and one

of the most beautiful cathedrals

in Britain. With traffic exiled to a

ring road outside the walls, this is a

perfect city in which to stroll

Text by Adrian Mourby | Illustrations by Sophie Minto

the soaring, solid majesty of York Minster, a huge cathedral

dedicated to St Peter that is the seat of the second-most

important bishop in Britain.

The city walls lead down to Lendal Bridge, which crosses

the River Ouse. The conical building you pass on your left

once controlled a huge chain that lay on the riverbed and

that could – with the assistance of the turreted building

on the opposite shore – be raised to prevent any invaders

sailing into the centre of York.

York is a remarkable city whose dukes once

held the English throne. It has also been a

major Roman garrison and the capital of

Viking Britain which is why, still today, its

streets are named ‘gates’ and its city gates

are named ‘bars’.

Start your day at York’s railway station, a splendid and

highly practical curving structure in yellow brick. When it

opened in 1877 this station had 13 platforms, making it the

largest in the world. Dainty, painted pedestrian bridges that

wouldn’t be out of place in a Victorian municipal park link

all those platforms.

Outside the terminus, take Station Road north towards

the River Ouse. As soon as you can, climb onto York’s white

medieval limestone walls. From here there is a wonderful

view of the city, with its Georgian townhouses dominated by

Once on the far side of the bridge, turn left to walk

through Museum Gardens as far as the Greek-Revival

style Yorkshire Museum, which was opened in 1830. The

architect was William Wilkins, the architect of London’s

British Museum. The site, chosen by York’s Philosophical

Society was in the grounds of St Mary’s Abbey, destroyed

during the Reformation. Its ruins can still be seen as you

walk through the park.


‘

Once on the far side of the bridge, turn

left to walk through Museum Gardens

as far as the Greek-Revival style

Yorkshire Museum.

’

Emerging at the north end of the gardens, King's Manor

is on your left and the York Art Gallery ahead of you.

King's Manor was once the residence of the abbots of St

Mary's Abbey but it was taken over by the Tudors after the

dissolution of the monasteries. The building is now part of

the University of York. In 1603 King's Manor housed James

VI of Scotland on his way to London to receive the English

throne following the death of his cousin, Elizabeth I. Over

the main entrance it sports the coat of arms of the King.

James was the monarch who introduced the Scots unicorn

to English heraldry, demoting the Welsh dragon. Ever since,

the white unicorn has helped the English lion hold up the

monarch's shield, but this shield is notably different from

that of Elizabeth I, James' predecessor, because James also

introduced the harp of Ireland and the lion of Scotland to its

four quarters.

In front of the art gallery stands a statue of the painter

William Etty (1787–1849) who was born in York and who

painted historical, mythological and biblical scenes. He was

considered scandalous in the 19th century because so


many of his paintings featured ladies who had lost their

clothes. York's Art Gallery contains the world’s largest

collection of Ettys.

Crossing to Bootham Bar where the medieval wall was

demolished so that Henry VIII’s daughter Princess Mary

could enter in a huge procession, you climb back on to the

medieval walls for wonderful views of the freestanding

minster across Dean’s Park. In medieval cities like York great

buildings would accumulate lean-to houses and workshops

around them, like bits of coral adding to a reef.

The Minster, like so many cathedrals and churches, was

cleansed of such accretions in the Victorian era. It is today a

powerful, stunning white limestone edifice, two huge towers

at its western end and an even bigger central tower over

the transept that rises up 235 feet without a spire, like some

great white cliff face. This is the largest Gothic cathedral

in northern Europe and a masterpiece in stone and stained

glass.

The narrow parapet of these preserved walls runs

around three quarters of York. Walking it, you encounter

four major and two minor fortified gates (known, from the

Viking era as bars). The Richard III Experience, a museum

dedicated to the last Yorkist king of England is housed

within Monk Bar. This fortified gate – York's largest – still

has its own working portcullis.

From here take the narrow steps down into Goodramgate

(gate meaning street) and head towards the centre of the

old city. Walk past The Cat’s Whiskers ( a cafe where you

can take tea with resident cats awaiting adoption) as far

as King’s Square where there are often buskers and street

entertainers – as well as lots of independent bakeries.

Heading south out of the square, past York’s Chocolate

Story visitor centre we come to The Shambles, one of the

most charming medieval vistas in York. Some of its timberframed

houses date back to the 14th century.

The cobbled street is so narrow that some of the

overhanging upper storeys of houses almost touch in

the middle of the street. It’s generally believed that The

Shambles got its name from the Anglo-Saxon word, Flesh/

ammels which referred to the shelves on which butchers

used to display their meat. The butchers are long gone and

The Shambles is now home to Harry Potter memorabilia

shops and general necromancy.


‘

Coming out into Whip-Ma-Whop-Ma-

Gate street... turn right and walk through

the market place and north towards

the Roman Bath near Swinegate.

’

Be careful not to mention the name of The Shop That

Must Not Be Named, which is full of magic wands. It is no

surprise that many believe The Shambles inspired the design

of Diagon Alley in the Potter films.

Coming out into Whip-Ma-Whop-Ma-Gate (surely the

strangest and least explicable of many strange street names

in York) turn right and walk through the marketplace and

north towards the Roman Bath near Swinegate. This pub

with rooms is built over a Roman caldarium (hot baths),

which is still down there in its cellar. From here there is a

cut through (a passageway under houses) that is called

Nether Hornpot Lane that leads via Grape Lane and Mad

Alice Lane into Low Petergate. Here there are some great

places to eat or snack as you continue your way north back

to the Minster. At the small statue of Minerva (goddess of

wisdom), turn right down Minster Gates, which used to be

known as Bookbinder’s Alley. Here was where books were

leather-bound in medieval times – and later printed. Today

its small premises are given over to bookshops and jewellers.

This alleyway ends opposite the Minster.

There is no better way to end a walk round York than

by visiting the Minster. Do not miss the screen that features

15 life-sized carved kings of England, from William the

Conqueror to Henry VI below gilded canopies, nor the

painted ceiling bosses above the South Transept. When the

transept’s roof was destroyed in a fire of 1984 the Blue Peter

TV programme invited children to design new carved bosses

for York, relevant to the 1980s. If you look closely (or have

brought a pair of binoculars) you’ll see up there bosses that

commemorate the first moon landing, saving the whales

and the raising of Henry VIII’s flagship, the Mary Rose.

Ideally you’ll have prebooked a ticket for the tower as

well. It’s 275 steps to the top, but at rooftop level you are

at the highest point in York and can see everywhere you

have just walked – and so much more of what this majestic

city has to offer.

Where to stay and eat

▶ Middlethorpe Hall: York’s finest hotel, an august

Queen Anne house near the racecourse. It was

built by the Barlow family, Sheffield cutlers who had

made a fortune in the 17th century and wanted to

relocate to York. The house was built on the main

road leading south out of York rather than in a park,

to be sure that no-one would miss it. Today the

hotel is famed for its Champagne Afternoon Tea.

There is also a lovely spa with a swimming pool in a

cottage on the estate. middlethorpe.com

▶ Guy Fawkes Inn: This Georgian townhouse

stands close to York Minster and claims to have

been built on the site of the medieval inn where the

Gunpowder plotter, Guido Fawkes was born. Inside,

the hotel offers diners a ‘Conspirators Menu’ and a

free two-hour walking tour of York’s historic sights.

guyfawkesinnyork.com

▶ Galtres Lodge: A unique 12-bedroom boutique

hotel has been formed out of two Georgian

townhouses in the centre of York. Its location in

Low Petergate is ideal for both sightseeing and

shopping. galtreslodge.uk

▶ The Refectory: The Refectory Kitchen & Terrace

is part of York’s old 19th-century railway hotel, now

known as The Principal, York. Its bar – known as the

Chapter House – and its dining room – known

as the Refectory – take their names from York’s

monastic origins. While you’re there check out the

hotel’s gorgeous main staircase. therefectory.co.uk

▶ Pearly Cow York: Pearly Cow is the first in a

mini-chain of new British restaurants opening in

heritage buildings. Fire and Ice are the themes of

the menu so whether you want steak cooked in a

Mibrasa Grill or oysters served on a plate of ice,

book in from the end of March. pearlycow.co.uk

▶ Pairings: Sisters Kelly and Kate opened Pairings

Wine Bar in 2015. Their mission is to offer a

relaxing space for drinking good wine but with

the opportunity to order the food the two women

suggest as an ideal pairing with each bottle.

Hence the name. pairings.co.uk


BRITAIN IN A BOTTLE

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Romantic

STAYS

Escape with a loved one to a remote retreat, whether it be a

design-led bothy, a chic cottage or a windswept clifftop cabin.

Time slows down, freeing you to focus on each other, while

absorbing the beauty of nature all around you

Text by Natalie Paris

1

The Great Arch at Fonthill, in Wiltshire

Gracefully framing the entrance to the Fonthill

Estate, The Victory Arch was built in 1755. Last

year, its intimate rooms were refurbished in Farrow

& Ball’s newest shades and The Great Arch was

transformed into striking accommodation for anyone

wanting to hang their hats inside a Grade-I-listed

landmark. Patterned fabrics blend harmoniously with

antique furniture over three floors, and every space

feels stylishly snug. The bedroom has a roll-top bath

that looks towards Fonthill’s lake, there’s a log burner

in the sitting room and a quaint, eat-in kitchen. Not

far from the well-to-do village of Tisbury, Fonthill

offers lakeside walks past stone grottos and it’s only

20 minutes to The Beckford Arms, where hearty food

and log fires await.

One night from £295 or from £325 on a B&B basis,

with breakfast either at The Beckford Arms or available

to prepare yourself, beckfordarms.com


2

Doxie, The Wilderness Reserve,

Suffolk

Doxie is a traditional Suffolk-pink

cottage with a thatched roof, wooden

beams and a full country kitchen. Sitting

beside a private swimming pond with its

own rowboat, the luxury abode is the latest

addition to 8,000-acre The Wilderness

Reserve, a collection of revitalised period

buildings on the Sibton Park estate. Pashley

bikes are available for couples who fancy a

pedal around the rewilded countryside. Take

a dip in the natural pond afterwards, try the

sunken hot tub or retreat to the cottage’s

private sauna and steam rooms. Massages

and private spa treatments can be arranged

on the covered pond-side terrace, where there

is also a barbecue and an outdoor kitchen,

making alfresco dining a breeze.

One night from £673, wildernessreserve.com


3

Sitheil, Inverlonan, Oban

You won’t be disturbed at Sitheil, a new

eco-bothy with a pared-back aesthetic

on the shore of Loch Nell. Guests can

cook over fire, order in select delicacies or have a

chef whip up an eight-course dinner in the wild.

Expect board games, canoes and a sauna cabin

but the idea is to rediscover simple pleasures, like

grinding coffee and heating water. Stone circles

and ancient dwellings are scattered about the

glen, while the skies are a haven for hen harriers

and white-tailed sea eagles.

Three nights from £525, inverlonan.com


5

Bosavallam, Cornwall

Set in an orchard, Bosavallam has

impressive green credentials. The handfinished

panels behind the bed were

originally salvaged from a church and much of

the furniture is reclaimed or refurbished. The onebedroom

refuge has a low-impact design, with

smart features like an on-site borehole from which

water is filtered, electric car charging and a water

source heat pump. The owners ensure the house is

stocked with Cornish treats, wildflowers from the

meadow and homemade honey. Popular beaches

nearby include Daymer Bay, Watergate and Rock.

Remember to watch out for visiting wildlife when

using the BBQ and kitchen on the terrace. As night

draws in, the skies above St Kew become magically

bright, making the outdoor nickel bath ideal for

stargazing.

Three nights from £1,143, cornishgems.com

4

Treehouse, Another Place, Ullswater

Accessed via a walkway between oak, ash

and yew trees, Treehouse is an architectdesigned

property in the grounds of

contemporary country hotel Another Place.

With floor-to-ceiling windows that look towards

Ullswater, its ample space allows guests to breathe,

with two bedrooms and a vast outdoor deck

featuring a freestanding bathtub. Furnishings were

built by local artisans, the floors are reclaimed oak

and there is a log burner to snuggle up beside. There

are three restaurants on-site as well as a fantastic

indoor swimming pool facing the lake. Make a stay

extra special by joining a guided, full-moon night

swim in Ullswater. A cold-water swimming expert

brings light-up tow floats and glowstick to lead a dip

from the hotel’s private jetty.

One night from £675, another.place


6

Aurora, Cornwall

Sheltering on a cliff ledge, Aurora is

dwarfed by miles of plunging rock and

endless beach beyond her. Wake to the

sounds of breaking waves in this light-filled cabin

that offers utter seclusion above Freathy Beach,

in Cornwall's Whitsand Bay. One-bedroomed

Aurora is wrapped in weatherboard to protect

her from the elements. A hot tub and patio

furniture are set out so guests can relax while

watching the sea at play. The indoors feels fresh,

with whitewashed walls and a bright kitchen but

there is cosiness too, on sheepskins beside the log

burner. Come prepared for a digital detox and

note that the path down to the cabin is steep,

ensuring real privacy. Awe-inspiring views along

the rugged South West Coast Path are a stroll

away and reveal hidden coves, perfect for two.

Four nights from £1,295, uniquehomestays.com

7

Marley Suite, Lakes by Yoo,

The Cotswolds

If the sparkly expanses of water at

Lakes by Yoo don’t make you want to

drop everything and just sit, soaking up your

surroundings, the pretty villages of the Cotswolds

are close enough for a romantic wander. Lakes

by Yoo is a purpose-built retreat that offers great

design, top-quality facilities and activities on tap,

from pizza nights to nature walks, water sports

and ziplining. Accommodation in The Marley

Suites proves that intimacy doesn’t have to mean

sacrificing space. The suites sleep two but have

super-king beds, open-plan kitchens, sophisticated

living areas and generous waterside decking. The

bathrooms are sleek and luxurious, with modern

freestanding tubs. The retreat’s spa – for a swim,

sauna, steam or even a yoga session in a yurt – is

just a short walk away.

One night from £500, thelakesbyyoo.com


8

Leopard Creek, Port

Lympne, Kent

In the wild, leopards are

notoriously hard to spot,

making the wigwams at Port Lympne’s

Leopard Creek a particularly thrilling

place to stay. The design of the

reserve’s newest accommodation is

remarkable enough. Wake to shafts

of sunlight streaming through the

top of a cone of raw timber and farreaching

countryside views through

panoramic windows. Underfloor

heating keeps everything toasty and

breakfast is provided. The private

viewing terrace is the place to sit and

spot big cats over a morning coffee,

though a complimentary golf buggy is

also provided, letting couples explore

the reserve. A 24-hour concierge is on

hand, a safari experience is included

and there are on-site restaurants to

choose from, including one at the Port

Lympne hotel. Back at the wigwam,

who better to say goodnight to (your

partner aside), than a pair of critically

endangered Amur leopards?

One night from £499,

aspinallfoundation.org


10

The View, Dylan Coastal Resort,

Laugharne

With a hot tub overlooking the

sweeping sands of the Taf estuary,

The View has an enviable position and all the

ingredients needed for a quietly romantic evening

under the stars. The roomy lodge, one of many

properties at the resort, has more to offer besides.

A smart, open-plan living area shares the same

outlook through glass doors onto the terrace, and

the bedroom also has fine views.

The lodge is well-equipped with modern

amenities, it also has a dining table, a kitchen and

everything required for a self-catered break. The

Dylan Thomas Boathouse and Laugharne Castle

are close by, plus there are bucolic walks on the

doorstep. Time it right and you could visit during

The Laugharne Weekend (24–26 March), a comedy

festival that takes place down the road.

One night from £525, luxurylodges.com

9

Kai, Eden Valley, Cumbria

Kai is a red-brick hideaway set on a 1,500-

acre estate deep in Cumbria’s Eden Valley.

Just under four miles from Penrith, it is

easily accessible but secluded and couples will feel

instantly relaxed as they admire the surrounding

Lakeland pastures dotted with sheep. The cottage

has original stone walls, a dining room with a log fire

and a lounge with expansive windows. The bedroom

is a calm space, with some wood panelling and a

king-size bed dressed in fine linens. Out by the patio

area, guests can soak in a wooden hot tub while

gazing at the distant fells. The firepit, meanwhile, is

somewhere to sit and plot the next day’s adventures

in the Lake District National Park.

Four nights from £641, boutique-retreats.co.uk


BRITISH TRAVEL JOURNAL CROSSWORD 14

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AN ETTINGER CAPRA PASSPORT COVER & LUGGAGE TAG

WORTH £165 (AVAILABLE FROM ETTINGER.CO.UK) WILL BE SENT

TO THE FIRST CORRECT ENTRANT RECEIVED THIS ISSUE.

ACROSS

1 The --- Arms, Braemar 5-star

hotel (4)

4 More than just into (4,5)

10 Unhealthy drainage channel (4,5)

11 Leopard ---, Port Lympne

accommodation (5)

12 Shade of blue (4)

13 Dealer lures Pip off the beaten

track (8)

16 Clark Gable's lost love (6,7)

18 Inconsistency (13)

21 Where 22 Across and 20 Down

might have been found in Roman

times (8)

22 Whip-ma-whop-ma ---, York (4)

25 Spur wheel (5)

26 Legendary Tunbridge Wells

letter-writer (9)

27 Letterform without crossstrokes

(4,5)

28 Jack's "Chinatown" costar (4)

DOWN

2 Freeze on the surface (3,4)

3 "Born Free" lioness (4)

4 Oddly-named Somerset estate (4)

5 Grand Inquisitor of the 15th

century (10)

6 Approval (10)

7 Confused demon in total agreement

(3,4)

8 They accept offers (6)

9 After-dinner orders (7)

14 Golf centre and top-line Auchterarder

hotel (10)

15 Versatile sort (3-7)

17 Proposes (7)

18 Snowdon Mountain Railway

station (7)

19 In a fumbling, bumbling way (7)

20 Originally, a Northern chocolate

maker (6)

23 Aces "over there" (1,1,1,1)

24 Saltburn ---, for wave-riders (4)

Answers will be printed in the Summer 2023 Issue

Great Walks on the England Coast Path: This guide will encourage

you to explore both well-loved and less well-known parts of the English

shoreline, £20, cicerone.co.uk | Just Add Water: Over 100 ways to

recharge and relax on the UK's rivers, lakes and canals, £18.99,

bloomsbury.com | The Hebridean Baker: Baking sensation, Coinneach

MacLeod, known as @hebrideanbaker to his 251,000 TikTok followers

and 107,000 Instagram followers is serving up a fresh selection of exciting

new recipes and charming stories, £26, blackandwhitepublishing.com

ANSWERS TO CROSSWORD 13 | AUTUMN/WINTER 2022

ACROSS: 9 Pendine 10 Abigail 11 Leeds 12 Frowned on 13 Net losses 15

Wales 17 Grenade launcher 20 Tarns 22 Theorists 24 Yellow Sea 26 E flat

27 Ragweed 28 Retinas

DOWN: 1 Up all night 2 Insect 3 Diaspora 4 Deaf 5 Famous name 6 Winnow

7 Randolph 8 Glen 14 Swept aside 16 Stress test 18 Earplugs 19 Narberth 21

Skomer 23 Silent 24 York 25 Acre


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DUNCAN CRAIG, TRAVEL EDITOR, THE TIMES AND SUNDAY TIMES

GOODWOOD.COM

British Travel Journal | Spring 2023

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