British Travel Journal | Spring 2022
With the spring and summer ahead and hotels and restaurants revived, it is time to fix up those exciting travel plans we have all been dreaming of. And, if our Travel News pages are anything to go by, 2022 is set to be an incredible year. From staying in a luxurious castle estate in Northern Ireland to a wellness retreat like no other in North Devon, from the finest countryside farmhouse located in the heart of Sark to the supercool ‘active relaxation’ hotel situated on the shores of Ullswater – there’s simply no shortage of inspiration. However you choose to spend the season I hope this latest edition of British Travel Journal helps add a little sprinkle of extra magic to your upcoming travel plans, and we can all make up for lost time with our families and friends.
With the spring and summer ahead and hotels and restaurants revived, it is time to fix up those exciting travel plans we have all been dreaming of. And, if our Travel News pages are anything to go by, 2022 is set to be an incredible year. From staying in a luxurious castle estate in Northern Ireland to a wellness retreat like no other in North Devon, from the finest countryside farmhouse located in the heart of Sark to the supercool ‘active relaxation’ hotel situated on the shores of Ullswater – there’s simply no shortage of inspiration. However you choose to spend the season I hope this latest edition of British Travel Journal helps add a little sprinkle of extra magic to your upcoming travel plans, and we can all make up for lost time with our families and friends.
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BRITISH TRAVEL
JOURNAL
SPRING 2022 | ISSUE 11
BRITISHTRAVELJOURNAL.COM
ULTIMATE
AWE-INSPIRING
JOURNEYS
FROM LAKES AND WATERFALLS
IN THE LAKE DISTRICT TO
STARGAZING ON A MAGICAL
DARK SKY ISLAND
WANDERLUST &
WELLGEVITY
ADD HEALTH AND WELLNESS
TO YOUR ZEST FOR TRAVEL
£6.75
+ TRAVEL NEWS | TOURING ROUTES | UNIQUE STAYS | NATIONAL PARKS
CHANNEL ISLANDS
Discover your own island adventure
Go to visitalderney.com or call 01481 822333
CONTRIBUTIONS
BRITISH TRAVEL
JOURNAL
BritishTravelJournal.com
Welcome
EDITOR’S LETTER
—
EDITORS
EDITOR-IN-CHIEF Jessica Way
FEATURES EDITOR Samantha Rutherford
CHIEF SUB-EDITOR Angela Harding
CONTRIBUTORS
Chantal Borciani, Sophie Farrah,
Jane Knight, Caroline Mills, Karyn Noble,
Natalie Paris, Tallulah Rushaya, Alex Stewart
COVER PHOTO
—
View of Ullswater Lake from the Aira Force
and Gowbarrow trail, Lake District National Park
© Image Editor's own
Published by
CONTISTA MEDIA
Unit 6, Basepoint, Andersons Road,
Southampton, SO14 5FE
01489 660680
contistamedia.co.uk
With the spring and summer
ahead and hotels and
restaurants revived, it is time to
fix up those exciting travel plans
we have all been dreaming of.
And, if our Travel News pages (p9) are
anything to go by, 2022 is set to be an incredible year.
From staying in a luxurious castle estate in
Northern Ireland (p66) to a wellness retreat like no other in
North Devon (p38), from the finest countryside farmhouse
located in the heart of Sark (p72) to the supercool ‘active
relaxation’ hotel situated on the shores of Ullswater (p24) –
there’s simply no shortage of inspiration.
If it is memorable experiences you are seeking then look no
further than our Unique Luxury Breaks (p48) from sea safaris
to classic cars, lake swimming and waterfalls, and trout fishing
to horse whispering.
With a strong theme of ‘active wellness’ running through this
issue you can’t beat our wonderful National Parks (p68) for a
dose of fresh air, and one of our most scenic touring routes in
Britain and Ireland (p58) for an unforgettable adventure – or
perhaps you might enjoy taking a hike across England from
coast to coast (p32).
Celebrate the Queen’s Platinum Jubilee in style with a Jubilee
Afternoon Tea (p90) or join in the fun sliding into the 20 million
new blooms in the Tower of London’s moat.
However you choose to spend the season I hope this latest
edition of British Travel Journal helps add a little sprinkle of extra
magic to your upcoming travel plans, and we can all make up
for lost time with our families and friends.
Jessica x
JESSICA WAY
EDITOR-IN-CHIEF
–
All rights reserved by Contista Media Ltd. Copyright is either
owned by or licenced to Contista Media Ltd, or permitted by the
original copyright holder. Reproduction in whole or part without
written permission is strictly prohibited. While every care is taken
prices and details are subject to change and Contista Media Ltd
take no responsibility for omissions or errors. Views expressed by
authors are not necessarily those of the publisher.
@BritishTravelJournal
@BritishTravelJournal
@BTravelJournal
BritishTravelJournal.com 3
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Interior Designers/ Trade & Hotel Enquiries: [email protected]
CONTENTS
SPRING 2022 | ISSUE 11
—
68
24
JOTTINGS
09
TRAVEL NEWS
From a renovated Scottish castle and
brand new countryside retreat hotel in Berkshire
to an ambitious nationwide celebration of
creativity, it’s an action-packed season.
AFTERNOON TEA AT THE LANE
22 Inspired by the decadence and splendour
of the Regency era, Tea at the Lane with Lily
Vanilli is now being hosted daily at the newly
restored Theatre Royal Drury Lane.
KILLEAVY CASTLE
66 Explore the east coast of Ireland from the
luxurious Killeavy Castle Estate.
EXPLORE THE UK’S NATIONAL
68 PARKS
Made easy with new pocket maps and walking
guides by Collins.
82 NOTTINGHAM
Britain’s largest small city, long associated
with Robin Hood, is waiting to welcome you back
safely and show that it's packed with much more
than just legends.
FOR YOUR JOURNEY
98 Latest travel essentials and crossword.
FEATURES
24
ANOTHER PLACE
We explore the lake, fells and waterfalls
around Ullswater in The Lake District during a
stay at Another Place with a magical stargazing
night swim experience.
COAST TO COAST
32 Wainwright’s famous trail across northern
England is an epic journey through landscapes,
history and time with the chance to explore three
of the country’s finest national parks.
HALCYON DAYS IN DEVON
38 Give yourself a health reboot with this
award-winning five-day wellness programme at
Yeotown, North Devon.
UNIQUE LUXURY BREAKS
48 We uncover ten of the best stays and
most exciting experiences for a truly memorable
staycation this season.
BritishTravelJournal.com 5
SPRING 2022 | ISSUE 11
BRITISHTRAVELJOURNAL.COM
£6.75
E D I T O R
L O V E S
This special edition English Sparkling
Wine by Royal Collection Trust, a
department of the Royal Household,
released in celebration of Her Majesty
The Queen’s Platinum Jubilee.
Buckingham Palace English Sparkling
Wine, £39, Champagne Flute Glasses,
£120.00 for a pair. Available from
Royal Collection Trust shops in London,
Windsor and Edinburgh or online:
rct.uk/shop
PREVIOUS PAGE LEFT TO
RIGHT: ST NONS CHAPEL IN
ST DAVIDS, WALES; OPEN WATER
SWIMMING AT ANOTHER PLACE,
THE LAKE DISTRICT. LEFT TO
RIGHT: HELEN MAGELL AND
HORSE WILLOW FROM STOCKS
HOTEL, SARK; PEDNVOUNDER
BEACH, CORNWALL.
THE MOST SCENIC TOURING
58 ROUTES IN BRITAIN AND
IRELAND
We’re ready to discover the brand-new Celtic
Routes, Kintyre 66, the South West 660 and
more, taking our time to savour the journey.
STOCKS ISLAND HOTEL
72 Spending 48 magical hours staying in
a beautiful country house hotel on Sark, we
discover the Window in the Rock, the Venus
Pool, Sark Henge and much more.
AFTERNOON TEAS
90 In a year that celebrates Her Majesty
becoming the first British Monarch to reach
the Platinum Jubilee milestone of 70 years of
service, there is even more reason to indulge in
a spot of tea or raise your champagne glass.
INTERVIEWS
44
SKYE GYNGELL
64
Renowned for her distinctively
seasonal, elegant cooking, acclaimed British
chef Skye Gyngell talks us through the
seasonal pleasures waiting to be discovered at
luxury Hampshire hotel Heckfield Place.
THE LAKES BY YOO
86 We speak to John Hitchcox about the
most exclusive lakeside estate in England
and his vision for the brand new super-stylish
lakeside cabins and apartments.
72
58
Subscription Offer
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country with a staycation, and we hope our
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IMAGE © VISITBRITAIN
BRITISH TRAVEL
JOURNAL
ULTIMATE
AWE-INSPIRING
JOURNEYS
FROM LAKES AND WATERFALLS
IN THE LAKE DISTRICT TO
STARGAZING ON A MAGICAL
DARK SKY ISLAND
WANDERLUST
& WELLGEVITY
ADD HEALTH AND WELLNESS
TO YOUR ZEST TO TRAVEL
+ TRAVEL NEWS | TOURING ROUTES | UNIQUE STAYS | NATIONAL PARKS
6 BritishTravelJournal.com
Sign up to our e-newsletter:
britishtraveljournal.com/newsletter
It’s never too early to dream...
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LOOKING AHEAD...
TRAVEL NEWS
Longer days and warmer temperatures mean it’s time for a trip.
From hotels to big houses, we provide the inspiration.
Text by Jane Knight
NEW HOTELS
COTTAGES
EXCLUSIVE-USE
ATTRACTIONS
from page 10 from page 14
from page 16 from page 18
BritishTravelJournal.com 9
New Hotels
EDINBURGH
Gleneagles Townhouse
This city offshoot from the Queen of
Scottish country house hotels could be
Edinburgh’s answer to London’s The
Ned. With a wellness area in the old
bank vault and a swish restaurant in the
former banking hall beneath a spectacular
domed ceiling, the hotel capitalises on
the building’s former life as the Bank of
Scotland HQ. It’s full of cornicing and
columns, original fireplaces and panelling,
with canopy crown headboards in the
bedrooms. A rooftop bar will be the place
to see and be seen. Rooms from £495. ◆
gleneagles.com
CEREDIGION
The Albion
There are already coastal cabins, hill shacks, onsen domes
and a bell tent on Fforest’s 500 acres which are designed
so you can stay and play. Soon it will add a smart 23-room
hotel, overlooking the River Teifi in two of Cardigan’s
historic warehouses. Rooms from £113 a night. ◆
coldatnight.co.uk
LONDON
Chateau Denmark
This one’s bound to be a chart topper. In Soho’s famous
Denmark Street, where the Sex Pistols once lived and the
Rolling Stones recorded their first album, Chateau Denmark
opens on 4 April. Expect a nod to punk and psychedelia in the
55 rooms, which cost from £510 a night. ◆
chateaudenmark.com
10 BritishTravelJournal.com
BERKSHIRE
The Retreat Elcot Park
A country cousin to The Mitre Hampton Court, this former
childhood home of poet Percy Bysshe Shelley opens soon in
Berkshire, with 55 rooms, a spa and whisky tasting room.
Rooms from £180. elcotpark.com
LOCH LOMOND
Cameron House
Views of the bonny banks of Loch Lomond are
the highlight of this restored baronial manor
hotel, which re-opened last year following a
fire in 2017. The renovation has been designed
to bring the outdoors in, with views all the
way from check-in and the new lobby bar to
bedrooms with private balconies. Historic
details blend seamlessly with contemporary
comforts. Expect public rooms with striking
black lacquered panelling highlighted by
antique brass features, and bedrooms with
Timorous Beasties fabric headboards,
sumptuous velvets and tartans. A new lochside
extension with a ballroom is still to come.
Rooms from £265 with breakfast. ◆
cameronhouse.co.uk
COUNTY ANTRIM
The Rabbit
Scandi-chic interiors abound at Northern Ireland’s
newly opened Rabbit Hotel near Lough Neagh,
where rooms range from small attics to much larger
affairs with outdoor bath tubs and wood burners.
A spa with sauna, steam room, salt chamber and an
impressive outdoors Roman bath is about to open.
Its name? The Relaxation Burrow, of course.
Rooms with breakfast from £175. ◆
rabbithotel.com
BritishTravelJournal.com 11
LONDON
art’otel London Battersea
Power Station
Talk about a pool with a view. Overlooking
the iconic chimneys of the Grade II listed
power station, this hotel’s infinity pool
alone will make a splash when it opens in
late summer. You’ll get similar electrifying
views from some of the 164 rooms within
and from the rooftop bar and gardens,
which were designed by the same folk
who mapped out New York’s High Line.
Reached via the new extension of the
Northern Line, the art’otel will feature
works designed by a Signature Artist,
whose name, along with room rates, has
yet to be announced. Watch this space. ◆
artotellondonbattersea.com
One
to
watch
YORK
The Vices
The three rooms in this former Victorian police station are certainly
arresting: one has a brass four-poster bed, another a double circular
bath surrounded by gemstones. Six-course tasting menus are served
in the intimate restaurant, Allium — it’s definitely a long way from
porridge. Rooms from £350 a night, with breakfast. ◆
thevices.co.uk
DORSET
The Nici Hotel
It’s all about fun without the fuss at Bournemouth’s clifftop Nici
Hotel, which replaces the iconic Savoy. Due to open in June, it
comes with a buzzy bar, all-day dining, bikes to borrow, a pool,
and oodles of South Beach style in the 70 rooms. Rooms from
£175, with breakfast. ◆
nicihotels.com
12 BritishTravelJournal.com
GLOUCESTERSHIRE
The Fox at Oddington
Almost a decade after Daylesford Organics’ Carole Bamford
created waves in the Cotswolds with her pub with rooms,
The Wild Rabbit, she is following up with The Fox. With just six
bedrooms and a cottage, the gastro pub opens in June.
thefoxatoddington.com
BUCKINGHAMSHIRE
Horwood House
Chill out at the new H Spa which has just
been added to this historic Grade II listed
hotel as part of a £6 million refurbishment.
With a 15-metre indoor pool surrounded by
heated beds, the spa features treatments
using Caudalie’s vinotherapy range. Pick
from an Express D-Vine Facial, an exfoliating
Crushed Cabernet Body Treatment or
perhaps a Fleur de Vigne Candle Massage.
You can visit for the day and enjoy lunch or
afternoon tea, and a 50-minute treatment
from £159, or stay the night, with an
additional £30 credit towards dinner and bed
and breakfast, from £229 per person. ◆
horwoodhouse.co.uk
New spa
Editor loves
LAKE DISTRICT
Rothay Manor
Tails will be wagging at Ambleside’s boutique
hotel with its indoors dog wash, dog-friendly
suites with gardens, and walkies outside the
front door. Eight new suites open in the Pavilion
from Easter, adding to 15 rooms in the hotel,
which has just been refurbished. Pavilion
rooms from £450, with breakfast. ◆
rothaymanor.co.uk
BritishTravelJournal.com 13
Cottages
CORNWALL
Fuchsia Cottage
The sea view is what it’s all about at cosy Fuchsia Cottage, which looks down
on the Cornish coast from the fishing village of Portloe on the Roseland
Peninsula. With courtyard garden, wood burner, spacious kitchen and two
en-suite bedrooms, it is also dog friendly. Short breaks from £822.
boutique-retreats.co.uk
THE COTSWOLDS
The Old Mission
Church
Allelulah! Church-going just got seriously
stylish, with this property for four in Paxford.
The stained-glass windows, original doors
and beamed, vaulted ceilings are still there,
with a world of contemporary chic within. A
designer kitchen opens onto the living and
dining areas while a glass and steel staircase
leads to a mezzanine bedroom with views of
the church interior through a glazed screen.
A second bedroom on the ground floor has
a freestanding bath. And, praise the Lord,
there’s a gastro pub over the road too.
Three nights from £1,180. ◆
ruralretreats.co.uk
NORTHUMBERLAND
The Loovre
The clue’s in the name — this quirky studio was once
a Victorian ladies’ loo. More recently, the unique
building within Berwick Upon Tweed’s Elizabethan
walls has been used as an ice-cream parlour. It now
holds a double bed and kitchenette with fold-down
dining table while outside is a private courtyard. As for
the conveniences, there’s a small shower room.
From £120 a night for two. ◆
crabtreeandcrabtree.com
14 BritishTravelJournal.com
GOODWOOD
one
of
the
best
hotels
in
the
country
DUNCAN CRAIG, TRAVEL EDITOR, THE TIMES AND SUNDAY TIMES
GOODWOOD.COM
Exclusive Use
KENT
Chapel House Estate
Get hitched in style at this luxury estate
in Thanet, with its Banqueting Barn and
Old Granary, and space to sleep up to 24
guests. The medieval Chapel House itself
has three lovely rooms, while separate
modern lodgings are set in the paddock.
Stroll around the 25 acres of gardens
and woodland, get the driver to take you
further afield, and call on the 24-hour
onsite concierge for whatever you need.
As for the ceremony, from June you can
say ‘I do’ in several places. ◆
chapelhouseestate.co.uk
OXFORD
Greyfriars Hideaway
Amid the dreaming spires of Oxford, this city retreat with
private courtyard garden is hidden behind a mysterious heavy
door just steps from Oxford Castle. Within are two beautifully
restored 17th century properties, which together sleep a dozen
guests. The smaller of the pair, The Masters Lodgings, comes
with a listed staircase leading to two suites, each taking up an
entire floor with their dressing room, seating area and stone
and porcelain bathroom as well as bedroom area. Downstairs
is a wood-panelled sitting room, a more formal dining area and
fully equipped kitchen.
Also opening onto the courtyard is Cloisters, which sleeps eight
in four fabulous suites, one of which has a Grade II listed ornate
plaster ceiling. Two others look out onto Oxford Castle, which
is illuminated at night. There’s plenty of room for everyone
downstairs in the large open-plan reception room with doors
opening onto the garden. The kitchen comes with everything
you need, including double ovens, no less than three sinks and
a wine fridge, though if you’d rather not cook, you can go out in
the city or book a private chef, one of several optional concierge
services. Three nights for 12 is from £7,600. ◆
greyfriarshideawayoxford.com
16 BritishTravelJournal.com
SPEYSIDE
Rothes Glen
What better base than a Scottish castle from which to set out and
taste Speyside’s whisky offerings? Newly renovated Rothes Glen
has its own whisky vault along with 10 ensuite bedrooms and some
seriously grand public rooms. Two nights from £11,500.
rothesglenspeyside.com
CORNWALL
Molesworth Manor
A two-year renovation has brought
this 17th century manor house in Little
Petherick bang up to date with everything
from a fitness suite with Finish sauna and
twin hot tubs to a games and cinema
room. There’s a firepit and BBQ outside,
as well as an open-plan kitchen within.
If you don’t fancy cooking, it’s just a
short walk to Padstow with its Rick Stein
restaurants. Like the rest of the house,
the seven ensuite bedrooms have been
beautifully designed. For even more
luxury, you can book a private chef and a
masseuse. A week for 14 from £5,285. ◆
cornishgems.com
WILTSHIRE
The Farm at Avebury
Take all six of the converted stables at this country
bolthole and you get independence for individual
families plus space to come together for gatherings
in the Barn and Granary. There’s farm food on the
doorstep and Avebury Henge and Stone Circle to
explore before a pitstop at The Red Lion, surrounded
by ancient stones. The rustic-chic hideaways sleep up
to 22 and open in July, with two nights from £3,590. ◆
thefarmatavebury.co.uk
BritishTravelJournal.com 17
Attractions
LONDON
The Chelsea Flower Show
There’s plenty to go wild about at this
year’s RHS Chelsea Flower show, which will
return from May 24–28 after a two-year
absence. Wild-flower meadows, blossoming
hedgerows and lush woodland will give
the show a back-to-nature feel, with native
English species transforming gardens
into wildlife-friendly havens. There will be
hawthorn and hornbeam, cow parsley and
crab apple, and plenty of poppies amid the
buttercups and nettles. A new category
called All About Plants will be held in The
Great Pavilion and will champion the many
positive powers of plants. ◆
rhs.org.uk
IMAGE © RHS / JULIET SARGEANT
BELFAST
Game of Thrones Studio Tour
Step inside the Great Hall at Winterfell where Jon Snow was
proclaimed King in the North, see Daenerys Targaryen’s
Dragonstone throne and find out more about the
Seven Kingdoms on the Game of Thrones Studio Tour
at Northern Ireland’s Banbridge. ◆
gameofthronesstudiotour.com
LONDON
Restaurant 1890 by Gordon Ramsay
Just 26 guests at a time can eat at The Savoy’s newest
restaurant, which opened in February overlooking the hotel’s
iconic entrance. Named in honour of the year that culinary great
Georges Auguste Escoffier joined The Savoy, it serves a tasting
menu, at £110 per person, with optional wine pairings. ◆
gordonramsayrestaurants.com
18 BritishTravelJournal.com
EDINBURGH
Royal Yachtsmen return to their beloved Britannia
Step aboard The Royal Yacht Britannia 30 May – 2 June in celebration
of the Queen's Jubilee, and see the former Royal Yachtsmen don their
white overalls, painting, scrubbing, sanding and polishing – as well as
enjoying their traditional daily tot of Pusser’s rum at 4pm.
royalyachtbritannia.co.uk
WEST SUSSEX
Petworth Park Antiques
& Fine Art Fair
A rare Chinese porcelain teapot from the
Qing dynasty, an Art Deco diamond and
platinum broach, and a Lalique vase are
among the items on sale at this year’s fair in
the grounds of the National Trust's Petworth
House. From May 13-15, it will feature goods
from 60 exhibitors. Among the etchings, and
paintings, the furniture and jewellery, one of
the more unusual pieces on sale is the toll bell
made for the first Vauxhall Bridge, originally
known as Regent Bridge, in 1810. If you fancy
it, it’s yours for a cool £14,500. ◆
petworthparkfair.com
Editor loves
CAMBRIDGE
Cambridge Country Club
It could be the perfect solution for golf widows
– this spa on the outskirts of Cambridge which has
just had a major facelift overlooks a championship
golf course. Leave your other half on the fairway
while you work out in the gym, wallow in the pool,
or enjoy one of the Elemis treatments.
Day spa packages start from £139. ◆
cambridgecountryclub.com
BritishTravelJournal.com 19
Iconic architecture, rich
heritage, exquisite cocktails
In the heart of Hampshire just 20 minutes from Winchester and the M4
Bombay Sapphire Distillery | Whitchurch | Hampshire
[email protected] | 01256 890090
BOOK YOUR GIN EXPERIENCE TODAY: BOMBAYSAPPHIRE.COM/DISTILLERY
Get 10% off your Discovery booking using the code: BTJ10
TRESCO
The New Inn
At the very heart of Tresco, our much-loved family-owned private
island 28 miles from the Cornish coast in the Isles of Scilly,
The Inn with rooms has been given a fresh new look following a
substantial refurbishment to the bedrooms and Pavilion dining space.
tresco.co.uk
ACROSS THE UK
UNBOXED
There’s a unique celebration of creativity
taking place throughout the UK in 2022.
Designed to reach millions and bring people
together through large-scale light shows,
sculpture trails and installations in an
ambitious showcase of creative collaboration,
UNBOXED features ten major multi-site and
digital creative projects that share new ideas
and possibilities for the future. Events are
taking place from 1 March–2 October 2022 –
from the Outer Hebrides to Dover and from
Omagh to Swansea. Visit the website to find
out more about taking part. ◆
unboxed2022.uk/get-involved
LONDON
The White Company
Sleep Retreat
Harbour Hotels Richmond has teamed up with
The White Company to launch a special new Sleep
Retreat taking relaxation to a whole new level. Full use of
the spa, a top-to-toe massage, three-course dinner and
in-room gift set from The White Company’s Sleep Collection
will have you feeling dreamy and oh-so-refreshed. ◆
harbourhotels.co.uk/richmond
BritishTravelJournal.com 21
SPECIAL FEATURE
AFTERNOON TEA
AT THE LANE
Inspired by the decadence and splendour of the Regency era,
Tea at the Lane with Lily Vanilli is now being hosted daily at the
newly restored Theatre Royal Drury Lane.
Theatre Royal Drury Lane,
affectionately known as The
Lane has re-opened following
a £60 million restoration by
Andrew and Madeleine Lloyd Webber
offering a decadent Afternoon Tea that
is a playful, modern-day take on the
glamorous Regency era, created by Lily
Vanilli, the self-taught baker and owner
of Columbia Road bakery.
Whether stopping in before a show
or looking to spend an afternoon
indulging, guests can tuck into delicate
pink lemonade tarts with elderflower
jelly and a mini sticky toffee pudding
with an oozing centre of custard and
salted caramel. Dark chocolate sponge
cake, piped with buttercream in the
decorative style for which Lily is so well
known, layered with a biscuit crunch
and salted caramel and topped with a
tiny gilded chocolate cherub, will also
be served generously by the slice with
whole cakes on display and available to
take away as guests leave.
Savoury bites will include madeleines
with lapsang-souchong glazed salmon
and pickled fennel, bitesize cannelés
with whipped ricotta and pickled
beetroot, and a signature Lily Vanilli
puff pastry sausage roll made with
Cornish sausage meat, roast bacon
lardons and a cider vinegar deglaze.
Warm scones will be brought to the
table with salted whipped butter, cream
and homemade jam while guests sip on
Rare Tea Company teas and Taittinger
champagne. To round things off,
drawing on the Regency era’s trend of
creative and exotic ices, a trolley roams
the room serving scoops of heady
absinthe mint choc chip ice cream
made with Lily’s top-secret recipe. For
those looking for an extra touch of
luxury, Exmoor caviar is served in the
Grand Saloon all day, where gilded
high ceilings, large windows and new
crystal chandeliers create a sense of
Regency grandeur.
Designed by Alexander Waterworth,
the pale pink walls are lined with green
marble panels, framing the large bar
at the centre of the room, and for those
who want to enjoy Afternoon Tea
al fresco, spacious terraces leading
from the Grand Saloon overlook the
Covent Garden piazza.
Afternoon Tea is served on tiered
plates featuring mythical characters
taken from costume design illustrations
for the theatre’s ballets, comic operas,
pantomimes and Edwardian musical
comedies over the years. ◆
Prices from £49 per person (or from
£57 per person with champagne).
22 BritishTravelJournal.com
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24 BritishTravelJournal.com
LUXURY ESCAPE...
ANOTHER
PLACE
ULLSWATER
Majestic mountains, glistening lakes, cascading waterfalls,
and soft light over the fells, tarns and woods. Another Place,
The Lake, is perfectly situated on the shores of Ullswater to
enjoy this mesmerising setting and explore the wild.
Text by Jessica Way
There has been nothing stopping this
new hotel collection since they launched
Another Place, The Lake, six years ago.
From BBC appearances to training
celebrities to swim in the open water, and now the
recent launch of Outside, a collection of rooms and
spaces allowing guests to be even closer to nature,
yet with all the luxuries and amenities of the hotel
right there on their doorstep.
Situated in the spectacular natural landscape
of the Lake District – the UK’s largest UNESCO
World Heritage site – Another Place, The Lake
is an impressive Georgian property with a stylish
new contemporary wing, immaculately converted
into a luxurious 40-bedroom hotel, including 10
family suites and 16 dog-friendly rooms. Open-plan
interiors and connecting spaces have been cleverly
designed with rustic materials and plenty of glass
making the most of the tranquil views. Guests can
relax in the library, unwind in the spa, and admire the
surrounding scenery from the restaurants, terraces,
balconies, garden hammocks and outdoor hot tub.
Set in 18 acres of national parkland with beautiful
gardens, a Victorian glasshouse, and their own
private jetty on the shore, there are plenty of activities
for hotel guests from stand-up paddleboarding to
kayaking and coasteering, writing workshops to yoga
on the lawn, to feel inspired by lakeside living.
BritishTravelJournal.com 25
We stayed in the colourful Joules Suite, beautifully
designed by Hannah Coates, art director at clothing
brand Joules. The room was bright, fun and eye-catching
with a playful design mixing modern with vintage.
This was the first hotel collaboration with a creative
designer, giving Hannah the freedom to create a room
with Joules own unique stamp, to include Joules furniture,
homewares and bed linen.
A successful concept, the hotel has since worked
alongside Matt Hulme of Dynargh Design, an awardwinning
interior design practice, to encapsulate the
Cumbrian landscape with a colour palette of tonal
greens, burnt yellows and statement Designers Guild
wallpaper (the Ullswater Suite, room 24).
For the ultimate luxury self-catering break there is the
most beautiful new spacious two-bedroom suite, Willow
Cottage, designed by Interior Design Masters winner Lynsey
Ford – her prize commission for winning the popular
BBC2 show. Ideal for four-legged guests, Willow Cottage
is located next to the hotel offering the best of both
worlds, your own private sitting room, reading nook and
pantry combined with full access to the hotel.
Like the Joules Suite, the Ullswater Suite and Lynsey
Ford’s Willow Cottage, the idea behind these partnerships
is to create unique bedrooms within the hotel with their
own strong identity – and it works well.
For those who prefer glamping, with the launch of
Outside, there are now six brand-new shepherd huts,
each with built-in stargazing roofs and wood fires, and
a stunning two-bedroom treehouse in a secluded spot
surrounded by trees with endless lake and mountain
views, and an outdoor bath and log burner.
26 BritishTravelJournal.com
“
For those who prefer glamping there are
six brand-new shepherd huts, each with
built-in stargazing roofs and wood fires,
and a stunning two-bedroom treehouse in
a secluded spot surrounded by trees with
endless lake and mountain views, and an
outdoor bath and log burner.
”
Another Place has much to be proud about – and
perhaps the most exciting news of the moment,
they will be launching their second hotel in the
collection, Another Place, The Garden next year.
Sensitive preservation and renovation work
is currently underway at country estate Amport
House in Hampshire, built in 1857 for the Marquess
of Winchester.
Location is fundamental to Another Place.
The team behind the new collection also own
Watergate Bay, situated on a two mile surfing
beach on the North Cornwall coast. Working with
the same designers behind Watergate, Household
(who have designed for brands such as Harrods,
Soho House and Christian Louboutin), inspiration
from the views, colours, textures and materials
that surround each hotel, be that by the coast,
countryside or city, is brought into their innovative
hotel-style, bringing the outside in and immersing
guests in nature, landscape and the outdoors.
For Another Place, The Lake, this includes bespoke
furniture sourced from local makers, swatches of
field greens, slate greys and bracken reds and a
20 metre glass wall pool creating the feeling of
swimming into the hills. There are some familiar
design touches by Household running across the
hotels too such as a striking zig-zag floor – a
technique to match the feeling of familiarity with the
intriguingly new. Next to the kitchen garden, which
supplies the hotel chefs with their own home-grown
produce, The Glasshouse is another recent addition,
and the hotel's newest restaurant, with tomato
vines and fresh herbs being grown inside. Guests
can enjoy breakfast, coffee, lunch, woodfired
pizzas and feast nights here as a relaxed alternative
to the hotel's Rampsbeck Restaurant, which serves
delicious meals from locally caught stone bass to
salt aged duck breast.
There’s also The Living Space adjacent to the spa
as another tasty option, perfect for alfresco lunches
serving lamb tagine, meze plates, salads and
sandwiches with a large outdoor terrace.
The lake itself is the jewel in the crown for guests
looking for meaningful experiences as part of
BritishTravelJournal.com 27
“
To experience swimming in a lake can, in itself, be incredible,
but the stargazing, and full-moon swims, adds an extraspecial
dimension. The magical setting of Ullswater, for many
the most beautiful lake in England, is just the most wonderful
spot for this experience...
”
their stay, described to us by the hotel General Manager, David Vaughan, as ‘active
relaxation’. The launch of the newly rebuilt Sheep Shed is a testimony to this, forming the
hotel's heartbeat to its lake activities. The lakeside cabin is perfectly equipped for warm yearround
changing, with hot showers, and has everything guests might need for getting out on
the water, including wetsuits, paddleboards, kayaks, dryrobes and safety equipment.
Following a delicious meal at the Rampsbeck Restaurant on our first evening we headed
across to the Sheep Shed for a stargazing night swim with open water swim specialist, Colin
Hill. This was the perfect way to meet other friendly like-minded visitors.
We walked along the shoreline before bracing the water together in our wetsuits with our
illuminated 'tow-floats' by our side.
To experience swimming in a lake can, in itself, be incredible, but the stargazing, and fullmoon
swims, adds an extra-special dimension. The magical setting of Ullswater, for many
the most beautiful lake in England, is just the most wonderful spot for this experience, and
knowing that the hotel (and hot shower) is simply strides away makes the idea of cold-water
immersions a little less daunting.
Following lots of floating and pointing up at the stars Colin confidently guided us to swim
back towards the hotel’s own jetty, where we had left our dryrobes and would finish our swim.
Colin is full of enthusiasm for cold water swimming and has quite an impressive backstory
– as one of the UK’s most high profile cold water swimmers, he is a world endurance cold
water champion who has been admitted in the International Marathon Swimming Hall of Fame,
and he was the first UK male Ice Mile swimmer to race one mile in under five degrees with no
wetsuit. In just trunks, a swimming hat and goggles he completed the mile in 24 minutes and
22 seconds, one of the fastest ice swims on record.
As well as training athletes and celebs (including radio DJ Jo Wiley, BBC personality Richie
Anderson and Radio 2’s Kate Bottley) in his specially designed ‘endless’ swimming pool
(adjacent to the hotel), Colin also takes groups on swimming adventures to Kailpot to enjoy
the secluded bay. A short boat-trip away in true Swallows and Amazons style we spent an
afternoon with Colin, climbing rocks and crags and jumping into the lake.
For the more adventurous, Colin guides small groups to swim from one side of the lake to
the other in a special one-mile 'cross lake' challenge. This is a journey Colin knows only too
well as it is also his daily commute to work. His house is conveniently situated on the opposite
shore of Ullswater to the hotel. Each swimmer who completes the challenge receives a Cross
Ullswater Swim medal in celebration of their achievement.
28 BritishTravelJournal.com
BritishTravelJournal.com 29
THE LAKE, FELLS AND WATERFALLS
With so much majestic wonder surrounding the
hotel, exploring the local area is the natural
choice for guests. The Ullswater Way is a 20-mile
walking route that goes around the entire lake.
Experienced walkers might enjoy the challenge
of hiking this in a day, or a five minute drive (30
minute walk) from the hotel to Pooley Bridge you
can sail on the Ullswater Steamer.
From Pooley Bridge at the north end of the
lake, it is a seven-mile boat trip to Glenridding
south of the lake, with options to stop at
Howtown and Aira Force along the route.
At Pooley Bridge there are plenty of pubs,
restaurants, cafés and gift shops.
30 BritishTravelJournal.com
FIRST SPREAD: COASTEERING IN KAILPOT. SECOND SPREAD:
ANOTHER PLACE, THE LAKE; NEW SHEPHERD HUTS; THE
JOULES SUITE; SWIMMING IN THE LAKE WITH COLIN HILL.
CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT; THE LAKE JETTY; VIEWS FROM
THE SWIMMING POOL; LOW FLYING RAF PLANE PASSING
THROUGH GLENRIDDING; JESSICA IN GOWBARROW FELL.
If you fancy a cycle ride, then pop into Arragon's Cycle
Centre. One of their most popular attractions is the
route to Lowther Castle. There's a lovely network of cycle
paths (mostly traffic free) to explore the Lowther Estates
with links over Askham fell, and the new Ullswater Way
Lowther Castle Loop trail.
After a leisurely session of make-your-own waffles at
breakfast, we spent our first morning exploring National
Trust's Aira Force, a beautiful cascading 60m waterfall
with new viewing platform, set amongst ancient woodland
and landscaped glades, before taking the awe-inspiring
four-mile round hike, 320m high, to reach Gowbarrow
Fell. At the top the panoramic views of the valley take your
breath away. I can only imagine how beautiful this spot
would be from which to watch the sunrise.
The following day we sailed to Glenridding on the
Ullswater Steamer to take on the Helvellyn Circular
eight-mile loop trail. It was an incredible experience which
took around 5 hours from start to finish. The final Swirral
Edge stretch is steep, full of rocky outcrops and large
boulders but once you reach the summit of Helvellyn,
950m high, you feel elated, and the views are incredible.
“
As we enjoyed our lunch two
low-flying planes in close succession
tore through the skies just in front of
us - it was quite a sight and a thrilling
surprise.
”
Glenridding is a beautiful village with quaint tea rooms,
galleries and gift shops. If you are looking for a less
strenuous walk then you might enjoy the eight-mile
lakeland footpath to Howtown. The mostly flat trail passes
the much-loved Artists’ Seat (celebrating JMW Turner, John
Glover and Ann Macbeth), the Kathleen Raine Poetry Stones
and Hallin Fell. You might encounter a RAF training flight
here too. As we enjoyed our lunch two low-flying planes in
close succession tore through the skies just in front of us – it
was quite a sight and a thrilling surprise.
The next morning, a recovery swim in the hotel's indoor
swimming pool watching the sunrise over the fells, I felt
more energised and refreshed than I could remember
feeling in a very long time. If this is the class of holiday you
can expect from Another Place hotels then I will be one of
the first to be checking in at their Hampshire countryside
counterpart in 2023. Watch this space!
Prices from £210 per night, another.place
BritishTravelJournal.com 31
COAST
TO
COAST
Walking Wainwright’s famous trail across northern England is an
epic journey through landscapes, history and time with the chance
to explore three of the country’s finest national parks.
Text by Alex Stewart
32 BritishTravelJournal.com
Your first decision is a key one.
Not which path to take, but
which pebble to pick. After all,
you’re going to have to carry
it 192 miles across England from coast to
coast, so you want it to be perfect. And
not too heavy.
Anyone familiar with Alfred
Wainwright’s epic walking route spanning
the north of England from the Cumbrian
coast to the North Sea will recognize
this tradition. If you’re not familiar with
the Coast to Coast, it’s the quintessential
English hill walking and long-distance
trail experience. The great fell walker and
guidebook writer plotted the route in 1973
and almost fifty years on it has a worldwide
reputation among walkers, eclipsing all
other long-distance routes in England in
terms of popularity and variety.
The route as imagined by Wainwright
walks up hill and down dale from the tiny
seaside resort of St Bees on the Irish Sea
to Robin Hood’s Bay near Whitby on the
North Sea Coast. Around two-thirds of the
time is spent in national parks, traversing
the Lake District, Yorkshire Dales and
North York Moors via all manner of trails,
tracks, rivers, rock-strewn hills, peaty bogs,
meadows and moorland.
Dramatic upland scenery along the
route includes England’s highest fells and
its largest lakes, some of its most beautiful
woods and sections of its bleakest, barest
moors. There’s wildlife to watch for,
traditional villages to discover and the
poignant ruins of mills, mines and ancient
Iron Age sites to stumble upon. It makes for
a perfect two-week walking holiday.
BritishTravelJournal.com 33
And anyone undertaking this epic journey
starts by dipping a toe in the sea and picking a
pebble to take from seashore to seashore.
Although you can traverse the country in
either direction, most coast-to-coasters walk
from west to east, so the sun and prevailing
wind is at your back. Starting in St Bees at
‘Mile Zero’, the path heads straight up a long
grassy field to stride out along the edge of a
towering red cliff. Continuing north past fields
of sheep and banks of wild flowers there are
superb seascapes and great opportunities to
spot nesting seabirds before you turn your face
inland, towards the Lakeland hills.
Although not especially tough, the route
is certainly challenging enough when you
tackle it in one go. Because it’s popular the
temptation is to think it’s easy. Don’t be fooled,
you’ll be averaging 14 miles a day for two
weeks, in fair weather or foul, during which
you’ll ascend (and of course descend) the
equivalent height of Mount Everest.
Navigation on the network of connecting
footpaths, bridleways, minor roads and other
PREVIOUS SPREAD
CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT:
SUNLIGHT ON ENNERDALE
WATER, CUMBRIA; CALM
WATER ON HAYSTACKS,
THE LAKE DISTRICT;
VIEW OF SMARDALE GILL,
A NATURE RESERVE IN
CUMBRIA; THE OLD
STONE KIRKBYMOORSIDE
ROADSIGN ON BLAKEY
RIDGE, NORTH
YORKSHIRE MOORS.
CLOCKWISE FROM TOP
LEFT: LOW TIDE ON ST
BEES BEACH, CUMBRIA;
VIEW FROM GREEN
CRAG OVERLOOKING
WARNSCALE BOTTOM;
THE MARKET TOWN OF
RICHMOND SITED AT THE
EDGE OF THE NORTH
YORKSHIRE DALES ON
THE BANKS OF RIVER
SWALE;THE GRISEDALE
VALLEY AND TARN.
34 BritishTravelJournal.com
“
In the heart of Lakeland you’ll explore Helm Crag, Grassmere and
Patterdale, pass Angle Tarn at the head of Ullswater, and climb Kidsty Pike,
which at 2,560ft is the highest point on the trail.
”
rights of way can also be challenging,
which is where travelling with HF
Holidays as part of a small, escorted
walking group makes sense; let your
experienced walk leader take care of
all the logistics and map reading.
They’ll help bring the route to
life too, with insights and stories on
everything from local romantic poets
like Wordsworth and Coleridge to
lessons on medieval history.
The trail through the Lake District
crosses the bald crown of Dent Hill,
from the top of which are cracking
views of the Lakes ahead of you
and, on a clear day, even Scotland
and the Isle of Man. You’ll then
skirt Ennerdale Water and make
your way towards Haystacks, the
small fell where Wainwright’s ashes
are scattered, before reaching the
Honister Slate Mine and Borrowdale.
In the heart of Lakeland you’ll
explore Helm Crag, Grassmere and
Patterdale, pass Angle Tarn at the
head of Ullswater, and climb Kidsty
Pike, which at 2,560ft is the highest
point on the trail.
Then come the picturesque
ruins of Shap Abbey, the limestone
pavement of Westmorland and
empty Ravenstonedale Moor before
you reach the attractive market town
of Kirkby Stephen. Beyond here,
look out for the ‘stone men’ of the
Nine Standards Rigg, a row of 10ft
cairns protruding from the country’s
spine that mark the main west/east
watershed of England.
BritishTravelJournal.com 35
Then leave the Lakes to head into the Yorkshire Dales,
swapping craggy mountains for vast, endless moors,
which unfurl ahead of you as you descend to the timelapsed
village of Keld.
Follow the tumbling river through the Swaledale
Valley on foot-worn paths and over stiles smoothed
by hiking boots, alongside dry-stone walls and wire
“
Wainwright’s masterful route-planning means the beautiful tumble of
Robin Hood’s Bay itself is hidden from sight until the very last mile.
”
36 BritishTravelJournal.com
CLOCKWISE FROM
LEFT: SWALEDALE
IN YORKSHIRE
DALES
NATIONAL PARK
WINDS INTO
THE NORTHERN
PENNINES –
FAMOUS FOR
ITS MEADOWS,
FIELD BARNS
AND DRYSTONE
WALLS; GLACIAL
LAKE ANGLE
TARN IN THE
LAKE DISTRICT
NATIONAL PARK;
ROBIN HOODS
BAY, YORKSHIRE.
fences decorated with clumps of sheep’s wool.
Flower meadows are interspersed with fields of
crops, before giving way to moorland covered
in purple heather. As the miles pass, admire the
historic town of Richmond, still dominated by a
dramatic Norman castle, traverse the Cleveland
Hills and ascend Blakey Ridge. Cross the moors to
Glaisdale and Grosmont before striking out for the
coast.
Eventually you’ll turn south to follow the trail as
it curls along the coastal cliffs from Whitby and its
distinctive ruined abbey. Wainwright’s masterful
route-planning means the beautiful tumble of
Robin Hood’s Bay itself is hidden from sight until
the very last mile. Round North Cheek and the redtiled
roofs appear at last.
Here, walk through the village to the water’s
edge and stand on the slipway. Dip a toe in the
ocean. Reflect on the challenge you’ve undertaken
and bask in the satisfaction of crossing the
country. Revel in the camaraderie you’ve enjoyed
with fellow coast-to-coast walkers. Then fling the
pebble you’ve carried from St Bees into the sea
and seek out a pint of Wainwright’s ale – what else
– to toast the end of your journey.
THREE MORE TRAILS TO
TACKLE IN THE UK
—
ENGLAND
Hadrian’s Wall Path
The complete route along the
northernmost frontier of the Roman
Empire spans 84 miles from the Solway
Estuary in Cumbria to Segedunum
(Wallsend) in Newcastle, passing
through rolling fields and rugged
borderlands, with plenty of chances to
gain a rich insight into life in Roman
Britain as you walk coast to coast.
SCOTLAND
West Highland Way
Wind your way from Milngavie
(Glasgow) to the foot of the UK’s
highest mountain, Ben Nevis, at Fort
William on Scotland’s premier longdistance
trail. As you travel through
remote Highland countryside, soaring
mountains, the shores of Loch Lomond,
the wilderness of Rannoch Moor,
rushing rivers and giant forests combine
to reward you with an ever-changing
landscape.
WALES
Snowdonia Way
Immerse yourself in the natural beauty
of Snowdonia by walking among the
mountains from the charming world
heritage town of Conwy in the north
to Dolgellau on the southern border of
the national park. Follow valley trails,
hillside paths and Roman roads to
discover Aber Falls, summit Snowdon,
explore the Aberglaslyn Gorge and bag
the peak of Cader Idris.
BritishTravelJournal.com 37
YEOTOWN
HALCYON
DAYS IN DEVON
It takes just one week at this award-winning
life-affirming health retreat to feel your best. Located
on the picturesque North Devon coastline, Yeotown is
raising the bar with its holistic approach to wellness.
Text by Jessica Way
We all want to know the secrets to achieving optimum health. Yet,
with no shortage of health documentaries, cookbooks and expert
advice out there, most of us are still left searching for the answers.
We know the importance of a healthy diet, exercise and enough
sleep to maintain a healthy balance in our lives, but it is one thing to be told, and
another to be shown as you live through the experience yourself.
When the opportunity for a five-day Yeotox first came into my inbox
I hesitated. Memories of punishing bootcamps with heavy detoxing on Bentonite
clay and numerous pills while being cooped up with a group of strangers suffering
from caffeine headache withdrawal, almost had me hitting the delete button
quicker than a round of fastest-finger first.
Then I remembered a friend had told me about a beautiful North Devon
wellness retreat – one she recommended highly – describing it as both enjoyable
and luxurious, a world apart from the juice-fasting calorie-counting fat farms –
and yes this was the same one, this was Yeotown.
Although offering some people the kick-start they need, extreme bootcamps
are in my view similar to yo-yo dieting. Guests might shed the pounds and see
38 BritishTravelJournal.com
“
We felt that, based in the West Country and with our lifestyles of yoga,
surfing, and plant-based diets, we could offer our own carefully curated UK
based wellbeing programme...
”
some health improvements during and shortly after their
stay, but so often they do not help people to address the
underlying problems which need to be considered in order
to maintain positive change for the long term.
Yeotown Health Retreat takes a different approach
– it is not so much about weight loss, although this can
happen for guests – but about sustaining and maintaining
a more mindful ‘lifestyle’. There's plenty of walking and
cycling, delicious (largely vegan) meals, saunas, massage,
ultra-luxurious accommodation, daily yoga and mindful
workshop sessions. Yeotown describe this way of life as
‘Wellgevity’ (living a long and illness free life).
Owners Simon, an avid surfer and hiker, and Mercedes,
one of the UK's top Vinyasa Flow Yoga instructors, have
turned their own healthy lifestyle into a unique mindful
experience for others to enjoy.
“The idea behind Yeotown was to create a healing
environment for guests to find a space to rebalance,
de-stress and find healthier self-care practices for a long
and happy life”, explains Simon who first met Mercedes
during a yoga class in London, where she was teaching
Vinyasa Flow having arrived from Sri Lanka where she had
been doing Tsunami relief work.
It was in 2009 when they first identified a space for
wellbeing in the UK. “Friends of ours were travelling 3000
miles across the Atlantic to the Ashram in Santa Monica
for a week-long programme of yoga and hiking,” explains
Simon. “We felt that, based in the West Country and with
our lifestyles of yoga, surfing, and plant-based diets, we
could offer our own carefully curated UK based wellbeing
programme – and so we opened our doors to the first
Yeotox guests in 2011”.
Yeotown is set in 50 acres of rolling North Devon
countryside with beautiful sandy beaches in both
directions along the South West Coast Path for guests
to relish mile-upon-mile of scenic hikes. “The connection
between healing and nature is an important topic,” Simon
explains, (one he predicts is going to grow substantially in
the coming years), “especially now with so much science
to prove it, and finding the right environment and location
for Yeotown was fundamental to our success. North
Devon with its abundance of nature, the Atlantic Ocean
and fresh sea air was perfect”.
Having previously owned a design and furniture
business, Simon also had the skills needed to transform
Yeotown. Set in the retreat there are five ultra-luxurious surfchic
eco-lodges (each named after a key character strength
and virtue in the ‘Science of Happiness’, including Gratitude,
Courage, Wisdom and Curiosity), a fitness studio, sauna,
four treatment rooms, a vegetable garden and outdoor hot
tub with views out across the fields.
Simon was keen to ensure the eco-farmhouse was
designed with sustainability in mind, and he has committed
to running the retreat with minimal impact on the
environment.
40 BritishTravelJournal.com
“All of our eco-cottages run on eco-technology, insulated
with straw hay bale and powered by solar energy. We work
only with eco-friendly suppliers.”
Inside the farmhouse there are further bedrooms, two
lounges with open fires, plenty of books and blankets, and
rustic farmhouse kitchen complete with large farmhouse
table adorned by a centrepiece wooden antler tiered ceiling
pendant. Dotted about there are antiques, sculptures,
paintings and other interesting artefacts, including Jimi
Hendrix limited edition prints.
The beautifully converted barn turned yoga studio with
underfloor heating and wood-burning stove is located in
a pretty courtyard, where there is a smell of incense and
a family of beautiful white doves live and make coo call
sounds during practice.
Each day guests get time to relax with a muscle-melting
massage, either Deep Tissue, Thai or Shiatsu. The local
therapists at Yeotown are incredible, so much so that just 18
months after launch, Yeotown was voted UK Spa Retreat of
the Year by Conde Nast Traveller magazine.
“I think it’s because of the unspoilt nature in Devon that
attracts a very connected and conscious crowd that we have
been able to find the wonderful therapists and teachers we
have working with us,” explains Simon.
The atmosphere is extremely laid back and upbeat. All the
staff including the kitchen staff, therapists, yoga teachers,
and fitness guides seem so genuinely passionate to be a part
of the team. In this warm environment, it doesn’t take long
for the group to bond and there is an incredible fun-loving
and supportive energy - whether you are a national athlete
(like Olympic cyclist Victoria Pendleton, a recent guest),
a highly successful CEO (such as previous guest Chrissie
Rucker, founder of The White Company) or someone like
me, just wanting to try something new.
There is no calorie-counting or rations at Yeotown,
just wholehearted meals with natural ingredients
prepared by super-talented chefs. Think BBQ cauliflower
wings, mushroom miso broth with crispy tofu, and the
occasional locally-caught seafood treat – not to mention
the scrumptious puddings including sunshine cake with
turmeric passion fruit and orange cashew cream.
Guests are not usually told what is happening more than
45 minutes in advance as a way of enhancing the overall
experience – encouraging a mental-cleanse as much as a
physical one. While you are not given a day-to-day itinerary,
you do get a sense of routine from the usual 7.30am
morning yoga class, followed by breakfast, then the first
outdoor adventure of the day. The group are chauffeured
by a Yeotown guide to a nearby idyllic spot for a morning of
hiking, cycling, watersports or similar.
All fitness abilities are well catered for, with options for
joining different groups taking on challenges with varied
difficulty levels where everyone is supported without
judgement. From cycling 15 miles along a disused railway
line from Great Torrington to Barnstaple on the Tarka Trail
to passing by feral goats on the jagged cliff edges of the
famously u-shaped Valley of Rocks.
You are exercising of course, but super fit ex-army guide
Mo and ex-tennis professional and yogi Bertie, manage to
support and ensure every guest is smiling and laughing from
start to finish.
BritishTravelJournal.com 41
FIRST SPREAD: THE COURTYARD AND WHITE DOVES.
PREVIOUS SPREAD: SIMON AND MERCEDES SIEFF;
ECO-LODGE; HOT TUB. LEFT-RIGHT: LOVE AND BE LOVED
ECO COTTAGE; JESSICA ENJOYS NORTH DEVON COASTLINE
DURING A HIKE; BLUE SPIRULINA BLUEBERRY PANCAKES;
PINK PITAYA BANANA AND MANGO SMOOTHIE BOWL.
Back at the ranch, a member of the team stands
ready to greet you with a Yeotini, anything from
a vegan hot chocolate, chai latte to a refreshing
immunity-boosting juice. Following a nutritious lunch,
the rest of the day is a surprise mixture of mindfulness
and meditation, fitness and strength training, nutritional
workshops and cookery sessions - with a few unusual
activities thrown in for good measure, including selfhealing
and energising group singing lessons and qigong
sessions.
Outside of the main weekly programme there are
also a wide range of different experiences at Yeotown
including surfing, open water swimming, coasteering,
as well as other treatments including Reiki, Reflexology,
Hypnotherapy, and (Simon’s personal favourite)
Kinesiology.
Simon is also passionate that they are fortunate to be
working with some of the UK’s leading experts in their
fields such as psychotherapist Julia Samuel, Ironman
Triathlon Champion and sports doctor specialising in
Biohacking, Dr Tamsin Lewis, Gut Health specialist
Lucinda Miller and menopause coach, Mariella Frostrup.
“We have a number of programmes each year where
alongside the usual Yeotox activities we have added input
from experts in their field – we call these our collaboration
retreats”. Yeotown even has their own Devon version of Wim
Hoff, surfer, swim coach, triathlete in the Arctic circle and
cold water immersion specialist, Paul Irwin.
Paul takes Yeotown groups to the River Yeo just across
the fields from the farmhouse each week for cold water
immersions. “The benefits of cold water immersions are
plentiful both for physical health and mental wellbeing”,
explains Simon.
“On a physical level exposure to cold water, whether
an immersion or even a cold shower, boosts your body's
immune system. Wim Hoff talks about how we are
degrading our immune systems by choosing to live in
18-degree temperature-controlled environments and
thereby not challenging them.
To me as a year-round surfer, this makes sense and I am
lucky to rarely get colds or other illnesses as my immune
system is being challenged on a regular basis. On a mental
and wellbeing level we see groups coming back from the
sessions 'high' from the experience”.
In Devon you see people swimming in bathing suits
embracing the cold Atlantic for its health benefits all
year round, and Yeotown is a great place to give it a go,
especially as a first-timer. If however, you prefer a warmer
climate, then perhaps Simon and Mercedes' new retreat in
Madeira could be the better option for you.
“Madeira is a stunning island also known as the ‘Hawaii
of the Atlantic’ just a three-hour flight from the UK. The
nature there is much like Devon but ‘on steroids’. It’s a
small island with a 2000m high mountain range located
in the middle – so you can be hiking in the clouds in the
morning and swimming in crystal clear waters of 22
degrees in the afternoon,” explains Simon.
42 BritishTravelJournal.com
“
Sometimes our guests feel guilty about taking time out for themselves, but it
is really important for people’s well-being. We always say if you are not healthy,
grounded and happy then you won’t be of so much good to those around you.
”
With two children (Rumi and Indra) at school near the
retreat, North Devon is still very much their family home,
but they will now spend time in Madeira each year as
well as taking regular trips to their London restaurant –
Sussex Gardens. Based in London’s first Mindfulness hotel,
Inhabit Hotel (www.inhabithotels.com), Sussex Gardens
is about to expand into a new, larger flagship restaurant
at the hotel, complete with their signature complimentary
Yeotown Meditation Pods.
Simon believes in four main pillars for optimum health;
nutrition, exercise, yoga and meditation and sleep.
Each evening little cards and herbal teas or other
small gifts are left in your room as reminders of the
important pillars Simon describes, re-inforcing some of
your daily workshops. The importance of breathing into
your diaphragm (as opposed to your chest) for example,
avoiding using electronics, (answering emails, browsing
news, etc), or anything that may take you out of your
relaxed state. We learned from a sleep specialist that it
is not so much the blue light from your phone that keeps
you awake at night but more the stimulation of all the
information and messages your brain is calculating –
especially as you scroll through social media feeds.
And my favourite, a reminder that “sleep is the golden
chain that ties health and our bodies together,” and that the
science behind the proven health and wellbeing benefits of
getting a good night’s sleep is stronger than ever.
With it, a Yeotown specially crafted sleep-spray made
using fresh, pure Devon water from their very own River Yeo
running through the retreat. Following your deep breathing
exercises you are encouraged to simply spritz some over
your pillow a few times and enjoy a deep night sleep.
After a full day of activities, a bath filled with organic
bath salt, heated fluffy towels, beautifully soft dressing
gowns and crisp white bed linen from The White
Company, uber comfortable beds, and the scent of
geranium and lavender it is easy to fall into a quick deep
sleep at Yeotown.
Then the most important part of all, taking a little of the
Yeotown magic home with you. Whatever that might mean
to you. For some that could be a life-changing turnaround,
as with the youngest of our group, deciding to pack in her
marketing job in book publishing to travel the world, others
were left glowing from their weight loss more determined
now than ever to continue on their better-body journey,
and for me, I have continued my daily yoga sessions, kept
off the coffee, and introduced a more plant-based diet into
my home. I regularly make my own blue spirulina banana
Yeotown smoothies (delicious!) and have settled into a
much better sleep routine - which is thanks also to my new
Lumie clock and Egyptian Cotton bed linen and Sleep
Soothing Pillow Mist from The White Company. Overall,
I feel more positive, fitter and healthier. Do I feel more
mindful? Yes, thank you Yeotown, there’s no doubt I do.
“Sometimes our guests feel guilty about taking time
out for themselves”, Simon concludes, “but it is really
important for people’s well-being. We always say if you are
not healthy, grounded and happy then you won’t be of so
much good to those around you”.
Yeotown is running a collaboration retreat with Lucinda
Miller founder of Nature.doc Happy Gut, Happy Mind
between 5-9 October 2022 in Devon. Prices from £1950
all-inclusive, per person. The retreat is open all year round,
every week from Wednesday to Sunday.
yeotown.com
BritishTravelJournal.com 43
SKYE
GYNGELL
Recently awarded a Michelin Green Star,
sustainability lies at the heart of luxury
Hampshire hotel Heckfield Place.
Its culinary director and one of Britain’s
most respected chefs, Skye Gyngell, talks
seasonality, simplicity and sense of place.
Text by Sophie Farrah
44 BritishTravelJournal.com
Tucked away in leafy Hampshire lies Heckfield Place,
a grand Georgian home and sprawling 400-acre
estate that redefines the idea of a luxury hotel for the
modern age. Here, nature is king, and every effort has
been made to enable guests to slow down and feel a sense of
connection to their surroundings. From the handcrafted natural
materials used throughout the stylish, soothing interiors, to the
ever-changing seasonal menus that use fresh produce from the
hotel’s very own farm, dairy and orchards, Heckfield exudes a
uniquely serene sense of place.
“It could be the 18th century, or it could be 2025 - time seems
to stop at Heckfield,” muses Skye Gyngell; the hotel’s culinary
director and one of Britain’s most acclaimed chefs.
“And even though it’s so close to London, it feels a world away.”
Skye has overseen all things edible at Heckfield Place since
its conception and subsequent opening in 2018. Today, she
divides her time between chic London restaurant Spring and the
recuperative country escape, which has 39 beautiful bedrooms
and six sumptuous suites. When it comes to the hotel’s food
offering, Skye’s signature style of simplicity, seasonality and
sustainability is evident throughout.
“From day one, we wanted to make everything at Heckfield. Every
jam, every cordial, the breads and pastries, the liquors in the bar,
the ice cream - everything. We also produce our own eggs and
honey, and we have our own dairy, so we make things like yoghurt
and milk. We even have a Heckfield cheese,” she explains.
“It’s a huge undertaking, but we’ve really tried to capture that
sense of place. Guests love that the cream in their coffee or the
milk in their porridge has come from the estate, and that’s what
we’re trying to do - it's about making that connection to your
surroundings and enjoying the immediacy of it,” she adds.
“It definitely tastes better and has more nutritional value too.
Blueberries from Peru are just not the same as a ripe plum that
has been picked in the orchard that morning.”
Originally from Australia, Syke realised her love for cooking
whilst working in a small deli in Sydney when she was a
teenager. She promptly quit university, where she was studying
BritishTravelJournal.com 45
“
When you work really seasonally,
you get so excited about ingredients.
My style of food is quite ‘magpie’,
I take bits and pieces from everywhere,
...provenance is really important.
”
law, trained as a chef and moved to London, where
she landed the role of head chef at the now renowned
Petersham Nurseries Café. Skye quickly became wellknown
for her distinctively seasonal, elegant cooking
and in 2011, it earned her a Michelin star.
“I wasn't particularly confident as a teenager and
I realised that as soon as I was in the kitchen, I felt
comfortable and grounded. It became my happy
place,” she explains. “I love it today as much as I did
when I first started 40 years ago.”
Each day, all manner of fresh ingredients are
harvested from Heckfield’s bio-dynamic garden and
certified-organic farm, ready to be served in one of the
hotel’s two beautiful restaurants. There’s the light-filled
Marle, which earlier this year was awarded a Michelin
Green Star, a prestigious accolade that recognises an
outstanding commitment to sustainability as well as
culinary excellence.
Here, guests can enjoy the likes of Heckfield lamb
with broad beans, peas, turnips and horseradish
cream, farm leaves with shallot vinaigrette, and
hazelnut meringue cake with homemade rhubarb ice
cream. At Hearth, once the estate stable, a smaller,
curated selection of dishes is cooked over an open
fire; the five-course tasting menu, exclusively for hotel
guests, is not to be missed.
“When you work really seasonally, you get so excited
about ingredients. My style of food is quite ‘magpie’,
I take bits and pieces from everywhere, but the one
thread that goes through it all is purity of ingredients.
Provenance is really important,” explains Skye.
“All the menus at Heckfield are incredibly producedriven,
with every ingredient speaking for itself. It’s very
stripped back cooking.”
Further gastronomic delights to be unearthed at
the hotel include cocktails made with ingredients from
the gardens, served under a giant disco ball in the
celestial-inspired Moon Bar. In the warmer months,
a sumptuous, seasonal afternoon tea is served in the
light-flooded Glasshouse tucked away in the garden
and, whatever the weather, a freshly baked cake
appears in the House each afternoon.
“We always leave one lovely cake out for people
to help themselves to, like it was their own house. We
make all our own jams for the cakes too,” smiles Skye.
46 BritishTravelJournal.com
PREVIOUS PAGE: SKYE GYNGELL.
CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT: BOX OF
PRODUCE FROM HECKFIELD HOME
FARM; ICE CREAM MADE USING
FRESH HECKFIELD CREAM; SEASONAL
DISHES; SEASONAL DESSERT; MARLE
RESTAURANT; SOURDOUGH BREAD.
After a slice (or two…), there is plenty of opportunity to
enjoy the great British countryside, from wild swimming
and boating on the estate’s beautiful lakes to guided
garden walks and regular tours of the farm. Luxurious
treatments at the hotel’s Little Bothy use ethically
sourced, all-natural products from the hotel’s own
Wildsmith Skin range, and a larger spa with an indoor
infinity pool is due to open later this year. Back at the
House, there’s a state-of-the-art cinema room and event
space, an extensive library and an elegant Drawing
Room, where board games and squishy sofas await.
“There’s plenty to do, but it’s a slow pace. We’re so
busy and over stimulated in life; at Heckfield you can just
curl up with the newspaper and listen to the crackle of
the fire. It’s an incredibly restorative place,” says Skye.
And while guests soak up Heckfield’s soothing ambience,
it is of course a different story in the kitchen for Skye
and her busy team, but as the old adage goes; ‘if you do
what you love, you'll never work a day in your life’…
“I'm definitely not as quick as everybody else in the
kitchen, it's very much a young person's game. It's long
hours, you need a lot of physical and mental energy, but
“I love it,” Skye explains. “I would have been a terrible
lawyer, anyway.”
BritishTravelJournal.com 47
10 OF THE BEST
UNIQUE LUXURY
BREAKS
Need inspiration for a short break? We bring you the most interesting
experiences that promise to make exploration more memorable this spring.
Text by Natalie Paris
48 BritishTravelJournal.com
1
SEA SAFARI FROM A SCOTTISH
CASTLE
Combining the luxury of living in a castle with
coastal exploration and wildlife spotting, this
carefully curated break in the Hebrides has
both style and substance. Two nights are spent
relaxing at Glenapp Castle, a Relais & Chateaux hotel
with a 110-acre estate in Ayrshire. The next two will
see guests striking out on a coastal adventure to the
remote island of Jura and a glamping site, where tents
are equipped with hot showers, duvets and tartan rugs.
A colony of seals can be seen on Jura year-round and
guests will take a rib boat to other islands too, stopping
off at Ailsa Craig, a sanctuary teeming with birdlife.
Longer, bespoke trips to more remote islands can be
arranged too, with a private chef on board.
glenappcastle.com
Four nights from £3,250 per person
2
HIKING AND A SPA IN THE PEAKS
What could be better than lungfuls of fresh
air and Peak District views, followed by welldeserved
pampering time? Buxton’s beautiful
new luxury hotel, the Buxton Crescent, opened
in 2020, putting the spa town back on the map.
The hotel is offering a new, invigorating wellness break that
makes the most of its natural mineral water and setting.
Spa treatments utilise the therapeutic properties of water
and guests can enjoy them after two guided hikes in the
area. The Achieve Peak Health programme includes hikes
that are tailored to guests’ needs and discussed with them
prior to their stay. They could include popular walks, such
as up to Mam Tor or Kinder Scout, or quieter routes. Three
tailored spa treatments will follow, including a mud pack,
underwater jet massage and a CO2 infusion mineral bath.
ensanahotels.com/buxton/en
Three nights’ dinner, b&b, with two hikes and three
treatments, from £650 per person
BritishTravelJournal.com 49
WALKING &
ACTIVITY HOLIDAYS
GREAT REASONS TO BOOK WITH HF HOLIDAYS
Over 100 years experience providing guided walking and special interest breaks
18 UK country houses in iconic walking locations
Experienced and friendly leaders
Full Board accommodation on all UK country house breaks
Perfect for Solos or Groups
TO REQUEST A BROCHURE OR BOOK VISIT HFHOLIDAYS.CO.UK | CALL 020 3974 8878
3
CLASSIC CARS IN THE NEW FOREST
Wind past ancient woodland in the New Forest on
this break that is a treat for anyone who admires
British motors. Country house hotel The Montagu
Arms is offering a fabulous fleet of classic sports
cars to guests who might enjoy driving in serious
style through this national park. Cars available include a red
1966 Jaguar E-Type, a 1967 Austin Healey 3000 MK III, and a
Gardner Douglas 427 Cobra.
The package includes a stay in one of the hotel’s courtyard
rooms, which, in the 1920’s, contained the house’s garages. In
the evening, guests can enjoy a seven-course tasting menu with
paired wine in the hotel’s three AA Rosette Terrace Restaurant.
Two tickets to the Beaulieu Motor Museum, just down the road, are
included too. You could even drive there.
montaguarmshotel.co.uk
One night’s dinner, b&b with car hire, from £997 for two people
BritishTravelJournal.com 51
4
SNOWDONIA STEAM
AND CYCLE
From coast to mountaintop, this varied
trip across Snowdonia involves both
cycling and genteel train travel. Devised
by Carter & Co, the journey includes
a stay in the colourful village of Portmeirion, where
The Prisoner was filmed, and where train trips to the
slate village of Blaenau Ffestiniog and down to the
Llechwedd Deep Mine on a steep cable railway are
possible. It then travels through the Welsh countryside
to Mount Snowdon – which can be ascended by steam
train. A cycle along the Menai Straits ends the trip on
the island of Anglesey in a luxurious Welsh chateau.
The other nights are spent in boutique hotels. The
tour is self-guided and involves five days of cycling,
though E-bikes are available to make hills easier to
tackle and train travel is occasionally an alternative.
the-carter-company.com
Seven nights from £2,520 per person
5
LAKE SWIMMING AND WATERFALLS
Spring may not be the most obvious season for
wild swimming but this is when a dip can be most
beneficial for our bodies. Experts say cold water
swimming can increase our white blood cell count,
boost immunity and release antioxidants. It is also
when you are most likely to witness those photogenic scenes
of mist hanging on the water.
17th-century Armathwaite Hall is a hotel located on the
shores of Bassenthwaite Lake. This quiet lake, backed by
views of Skiddaw Mountain, is recommended as an excellent
spot for swimming. The hotel provides a wild swimming coach
to ensure guests can take a dip safely here, as well as at a
natural infinity pool nearby and in waterfalls at Buttermere
over the course of half a day. If you are looking for a ‘nature
reset’ you might also enjoy their two hour Forest Bathing
experience followed by a 55-minute full body massage.
prideofbritainhotels.com
One night’s dinner, b&b and guided wild swimming from £320
for two people. Two hour Forest bathing experience costs £110
per person (based on a minimum of two people)
52 BritishTravelJournal.com
6
EPIC ROAD TRIP ADVENTURE
Embrace the wilder side of the UK with
a tour of some of its most magnificent
driving routes in an expedition Land
Rover. Celtic Routes has devised a new
trip that combines driving Scotland’s North
Coast 500 with the Causeway Coastal 120 in Ireland.
The company says it has enhanced the north coast
route, which encounters dramatic stretches of coast,
castles and enigmatic lochs. Motorists will then take a
catamaran across to Belfast for the Causeway Coastal.
Optional activities are possible along both routes, from
sea kayaking to horseriding and 4x4 experiences. It is
also possible to celebrate the end of the journey with
a two Michelin-star dinner at Moore Hall, Aughton.
There is an option to have a fully guided trip or a
self-guided journey in a Land Rover loaded up with a
bespoke guide and navigation app. Accommodation
includes converted castles, lodges and country inns.
celticroute.com
Twelve days from £2,100 self guided, or £2950 fully guided
7
HORSE WHISPERING AT
LUCKNAM PARK
The stables are one of two features
that set this fine country house hotel
apart – the other is its high-quality
spa. Guests who know nothing about
horses will gain an incredible insight into the
handsome animals – and perhaps even themselves
– if they try the hotel’s Equine Connect experience.
After watching a horse trainer guide a bucking
young stallion round a training ring, guests are
invited into the ring themselves with one of the
calmer horses. The animal is unbridled and, by
using nothing but their own body language,
guests are taught to encourage the horse to
canter. After some circling around, if the guest is
relaxed enough for the horse to approach, it will
submit by dropping its head and walking to the
centre of the ring to nuzzle the guest’s hand.
In what is often an emotional experience, the
horse might then follow the guest around, with no
commands necessary.
lucknampark.co.uk
One night with one Equine Connect experience, from
£500 for two people
BritishTravelJournal.com 53
8RURAL SKILLS IN THE COTSWOLDS
Learning holidays are a trend for 2022 and
there are lots of opportunities to pick up a skill
in the pretty Cotswolds. Guests staying in one of
Cotswolds Hideaways’ premium cottages can turn
their hand to a range of rural skills, from dry-stone
walling, to fossil-hunting or campfire-cooking. The Cotswold
Stone Experience, for example, incorporates looking for fossils
with time spent at a quarry learning a history of the area’s
sought-after, honey-coloured stone. Alternatively, in woodland
once belonging to Henry VIII, firewood will be gathered, logs
split and a meal cooked outdoors. The dry stone-walling course,
meanwhile, will see participants help build a wall that will
hopefully still be standing in the Cotswolds in two hundred years’
time. The dates of each course vary, see online.
cotswoldshideaways.co.uk
Three nights in Dyers Cottage (sleeps three) near Cheltenham with
dry-stone walling from £701 for two people
54 BritishTravelJournal.com
Find your special place
A portfolio of over 600 luxury, self-catering holiday homes
in the UK and Northern Ireland
From contemporary coastal barn conversions to charming
thatched cottages, we’ve hand-picked the very best properties
to bring you holiday memories to treasure.
01386 897 959
ruralretreats.co.uk
Escape to Killeavy Castle Estate
Enjoy luxury accommodation, award-winning dining and an indulgent spa experience in the
foothills of the majestic Slieve Gullion, Northern Ireland. Book your Summer Staycation now.
12 Ballintemple Road, Killeavy, Newry,
County Armagh, Northern Ireland, BT35 8LQ
killeavycastle.com +44 (0) 28 3044 4888
Get closer to what’s important.
9TROUT FISHING IN DEVON
Bordering moorland in the Dartmoor
National Park, Bovey Castle is a granite
country house hotel set in a wooded valley,
with a golf course and an ESPA spa. One
of the most peaceful ways of enjoying the
hotel’s lush grounds is by trying a spot of fly-fishing
in the hotel lake, which is filled with brown trout. No
prior knowledge of fishing is necessary as a “ghillie” – an
expert fishing guide – will be provided to show guests
everything they need to do to cast off. With any luck,
they will be shown how to reel in their own catch too.
After an hour’s fishing (for beginners, experienced
fishermen can have longer), guests can tuck into a picnic
hamper – made with local Devon produce – in an idyllic
spot on the lake shore. Guests can stay either in the main
hotel or in one of 22 self-catered country lodges.
boveycastle.com
One night with a fishing licence and beginner’s lesson,
from £400
IMAGE © TOWER BANK ARMS WINDERMERE NATIONAL TRUST IMAGES / PAUL HARRIS
10
SKIPPERED CRUISE ON
WINDERMERE
Who needs the Italian lakes when
you can tour Lake Windermere in
a vintage-style, British-built boat?
Abigail Leah is a sleek, teak-andmahogany
slipper launch designed by the renowned
boatbuilders Peter Freebody & Co. She arrives on April
1 at Storrs Hall, a country house hotel with an enviable
position on Windermere’s shore. Guests can embark on
a two-hour cruise from the hotel’s own jetty, on a voyage
that celebrates the arrival of spring on the slopes of the
fells surrounding the lake. The boat comfortably seats
up to five people for chilled prosecco and luxury picnics
can also be arranged. The grounds at Storrs Hall include
lawns that overlook a quiet side of the lake. Luxury cabins
come with cedar-wood hot tubs, while more traditional
bedrooms with lake views are found in the main building.
storrshall.com
Two-night stay and two-hour cruise from £700 for two
people
BritishTravelJournal.com 57
THE MOST
SCENIC
TOURING
ROUTES
IN BRITAIN AND IRELAND
With more than 50 touring routes to discover,
you’re never far away from a scenic adventure.
Ease up on the accelerator and lace up your
walking boots, as you savour these fabulous
roads, trails and footpaths in your own time.
Text by Caroline Mills
58 BritishTravelJournal.com
BritishTravelJournal.com 59
Touring is not about rushing
to a final destination. it’s an
opportunity to experience a
journey slowly, soaking up
immense scenery along the
route, taking time to walk, cycle, cruise and
enjoy numerous attractions while sampling
fantastic local produce along the way.
Here, we bring you a selection of the very
best touring routes – some classics, some
lesser-known together with a sprinkling of
new routes for exploring alternative locales.
WALES
Condensed beauty is a way to describe
touring through Wales. For such a pocketsized
country, the scenery is gigantic. Huge
mountain vistas, a long coastline of rocky
cliffs and sweeping bays, and vast inland
panoramas.
Much of this can be explored along The
Wales Way (thewalesway.com), which is a
trio of routes that, collectively, allow the
traveller to experience classic samples of
Welsh scenery, heritage and culture. The
North Wales Way travels from Broughton, on
the border with England, to Holyhead, on
the island of Anglesey.
The self-explanatory Coastal Way covers
180 miles from Aberdaron, on the Llyn
Peninsula, to St David’s, the village-sized
city in Pembrokeshire.
Completing the trio is The Cambrian Way,
the longest of the three routes at 185 miles,
which follows the spine of Wales from north
to south, beginning and ending in Llandudno
and Cardiff, crossing two national parks –
Snowdonia and the Brecon Beacons.
Less well-known is Marine Drive, a
miniature touring route on the north coast.
The tiny five-mile toll road (free for cyclists)
circumnavigates Great Orme Head.
Along the way are outstanding coastal
views of Anglesey and Snowdonia, and
opportunities to take the spur to the summit
of Great Orme for cable car rides. Keep a
look out for the wild Kashmir goats that
roam the headland!
What’s New?
Most recent to join the collection of
scenic tours in Wales is the Celtic Route
(celticroutes.info). It’s not about following
one specific road, rather an opportunity
to explore the southwest counties of Wales
– Carmarthenshire, Ceredigion and
Pembrokeshire – and is linked to the Celtic
Route on Ireland's east coast (see below).
Neither is touring the Celtic Route solely
about ancient history. Yes, the idea is to
hark back to the region’s Celtic roots, but
the scenic tour is more to enjoy immersive
experiences, to understand the landscape,
authenticity and heritage of the locales.
It’s about leaving the Sat-Nav at home
and taking the road less travelled to find
distinguishing places and moments to
make memories. The boon of Celtic Routes
is that there’s no need to set aside weeks to
complete any one journey or start and finish
in specific places. It could be a day to explore
one tiny locale, such as the Preseli Hills in
Pembrokeshire, a long weekend to discover
a stretch of coastline like the rugged cliffs
around New Quay, or pick a theme and
spend a week discovering the stories that
make this Celtic land.
Looking for somewhere to stay?
Penally Abbey offers cosy, country hotelstyle
refinement within five minutes of Tenby.
Further east is Brown’s Hotel in Laugharne;
the historic boutique residence was a
favourite haunt of writer Dylan Thomas.
For an inland hideaway, Jabajak offers
individually furnished suites in a vineyard
setting, with home-produced wines served in
the bistro restaurant.
60 BritishTravelJournal.com
scenery is the Snow Roads Scenic Route
(snowroads.com), which crosses the
Cairngorms National Park. The linear route
explores 90 miles of spellbindingly beautiful
countryside between Blairgowrie and
Grantown-on-Spey.
To add to the exhilaration, you’ll find
various art installations along the way,
such as the The Watchers, overlooking the
magnificent Corgarff Castle, complete with
photo posts to advise the best way to point
your camera. To boot, a trip along the Snow
Roads allows bragging rights of touring the
highest public road in the British Isles.
SCOTLAND
For the sheer number of exceptional touring
routes and scenic drives, Scotland is king.
Whether exploring the castles of Aberdeen,
the malt whisky of the Highlands, the history
of the Scottish Borders or the Hebridean
Way by bicycle, you’ll find a way. The route
that became an overnight classic and put the
Highlands literally on the map is the circular
North Coast 500 (northcoast500.com).
With 500 miles of mesmerising scenery,
there’s the chance for seal-spotting and
whale-watching on the east coast. Across
the top, the Castle of Mey, the beloved
holiday home of Her Majesty, Queen
Elizabeth the Queen Mother, is a don’t miss
attraction.
But it’s the west coast that offers the
greatest jewels – including a jewel-like sea
when the sun shines. Balnakeil Bay, in the
northwest corner, arguably tops all others.
A lesser-known tour with remarkable
What’s New?
Many touring routes that have developed
in Britain and Ireland over the past few
years are big, world-beating drives that
require much time and stamina to fully
appreciate. Along comes the Kintyre 66,
(wildaboutargyll.co.uk).
World-beating, yes, but it’s bite-sized in
comparison to others. The 66-mile circular
route in Argyll takes in the stunning scenery of
the Kintyre peninsula, sandwiched between
the Kilbrannan Sound and Sound of Gigha.
Skipness Castle, Davaar Island, Campbeltown
– the ‘capital’ of the peninsula – and the
extraordinary sandy Machrihanish Bay are
mere tasters of what to see. For an extension
to the tour, a trip to the Mull of Kintyre, the
headland in the far southwest of the peninsula,
is a highlight. Walking (including the Kintyre
Way), cycling plus a round of golf are inevitable.
Looking for somewhere to stay? If you’re
short on time, the loop is ‘doable’ in a
day. But that’s an injustice; better to stay
a while on the Torrisdale Castle Estate for
self-catered luxury, or The Royal Hotel in
Campbeltown when you’d prefer someone
else to wash up.
BritishTravelJournal.com 61
ENGLAND
There have been few acclaimed longdistance
touring routes in England until
recent years, despite its comparative
size. A classic is the Great West Way
(greatwestway.co.uk) that links London and
Bristol. Developed as a leisurely 125-mile
tour in 2019, the route evolved from the
centuries-old Great West Road, which was
commissioned by King Charles I to expedite
the delivery of post.
Today, the Great West Way covers a
15-mile-wide network of roads, footpaths,
cycle trails, rail and canal towpaths, and
many notable attractions to suit every
interest through multiple counties, including
Berkshire, Wiltshire and Somerset.
62 BritishTravelJournal.com
Less-well known is The Explorer’s Road
(explorersroad.com), a 300-mile route
between Hertfordshire and Berwick-upon-
Tweed. The touring route, which loosely
follows the A1, was developed to encourage
tourists from the Netherlands and Germany
to visit. Regardless, anyone can follow the route
to discover historic cities like Cambridge,
Lincoln, York and Newcastle, and quaint
towns such as Oakham and Uppingham in
Rutland, England’s smallest county.
What’s new?
The South West 660 (southwest660.com),
the very latest outstanding touring route to
enjoy, is one to set time aside for. The route
follows the coastline from Poole in Dorset
to Watchet in Somerset, taking in iconic
IMAGES © VISITSCOTLAND / KENNY LAM / GREAT WEST WAY
FIRST SPREAD: AERIAL
VIEW OF CEREDIGION.
PREVIOUS SPREAD:
ASTON MARTIN ON THE
NORTH WALES WAY;
THE CAMBRIAN WAY.
CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT:
VIEW FROM STAC
POLLAIDH, SUTHERLAND;
CHERHILL DOWNS ON
THE GREAT WEST WAY.
NEXT SPREAD: ROAD TO
MOLLS GAP, CO KERRY,
IRELAND.
sites like Lulworth Cove and Durdle Door
in Dorset, the English Riviera and beautiful
Dartmouth in South Devon, and the wild
beauty of Kynance Cove, St Michael’s
Mount and Cape Cornwall as you tour the
‘boot’ of Cornwall.
The route continues along the north
coast of Cornwall, taking in St Ives,
Tintagel and Boscastle before placing the
ruggedness of the North Devon coast centre
stage. Here, the gorgeous fishing villages
of Hartland Quay, Clovelly, Appledore
and Mortehoe, each with tiny terraces of
fishermen’s cottages, create the backdrop
for your tour before climbing for, arguably,
the finest scenery of the route – Exmoor
National Park.
Though 660 miles in all, the route has
been split into 12 sections of around 50
miles, each offering differing characteristics.
It’s possible to drive the route in a week,
though you’d barely step out of the car to
stretch your legs. Our recommendation
would be to take your time over three to four
weeks, giving a week to each of the four
counties.
Looking for somewhere to stay?
For Dorset, try The Pig on the Beach in
Studland or, slightly inland, The Ollerod in
Beaminster. For an extraordinary location,
the Burgh Island Hotel is your destination in
– or, actually, off the coast of – South Devon.
In Cornwall, The Idle Rocks in St Mawes is a
great choice though if you wish to be king or
queen of your own castle, Pentillie Castle in
Saltash offers exclusive stays.
For a hotel that shouts ‘look-at-me’, you’ll
need the Art Deco Saunton Sands Hotel
and its pool with a view, but for something
more hideaway and genteel, The Old
Rectory Hotel within Exmoor National Park
is an option.
BritishTravelJournal.com 63
DISCOVER
YOUR WAY
We are offering two readers the
chance to WIN a fabulous Great
West Way break including travel
with 2 Discoverer rail and bus
passes, accommodation
and more.
To enter and find out more
www.greatwestway.co.uk/win
Begin your next adventure at
GreatWestWay.co.uk
#EscapetheEveryday
IRELAND
If Scotland is king of scenic
touring routes, Ireland certainly
has some fit for a queen; Queen
Victoria visited Kerry, the location
of the island’s most famous
touring route, in 1861. The 111-mile
Ring of Kerry around the Iveragh
Peninsula has become so popular
that a one-way system has been
implemented to avoid congestion.
With the scenery of Killarney
National Park, including the
famous Ladies’ View (from said
visit by the Queen), little wonder
the route is hugely admired.
Two other modern classics in
Ireland include the Wild Atlantic
Way (discoverireland.ie) – the
giant of world-beating road trips
at 1600-miles long – that takes
in the entire west coastline from
County Donegal to County Cork;
and the 131-mile Causeway Coastal
Route (discovernorthernireland.
com) in Northern Ireland, that
takes in the Giant’s Causeway.
Legend has it that the giant Finn
McCool created his own ‘touring’
route to Scotland.
Visitors to the UNESCO World
Heritage Site today will get wet
feet should they attempt such a
trip; better to follow the coastal
route on land between Belfast and
Derry.
What’s New?
In collaboration with partners in
Wales, Ireland has the other pairing
of the Celtic Routes (celticroutes.
info). Like its counterpart, there’s
no one road to follow, but an entire
region of distinct Celtic heritage
to explore. One could spend a
lifetime discovering this diverse
region, so rich is it with ancient landand
seascapes, from the rugged
mountains of County Wicklow,
iconic seascapes like the Hook
Peninsula in County Wexford, or
finding ancient standing stones in
County Waterford. Set aside at least
a fortnight to make in-roads.
Looking for somewhere to stay?
Take time out at the Dunbrody
Country House Hotel, set in 300
acres on the Hook Peninsula in
County Wexford. For magnitude,
the Palladian architecture of the
Powerscourt Hotel offers wow
factor in County Wicklow. In County
Waterford, you can retreat to the
Waterford Castle Resort, set on its
own 310-acre island.
OR JOIN AN EVENT...
—
Walkers will love a Mighty Hike
Mighty Hikes, organised by
Macmillan Cancer Support, are a
fantastic series of one-day hiking
marathons. From the Northern
landscapes along the Ullswater Way
from Dalemain to Lowther Castle to
the magnificent Jurassic Coast from
Weymouth to Wareham, past the
iconic Durdle Door and Lulworth
Cove, Mighty Hikes take you to some
of the most beautiful and unspoiled
parts of England, Scotland, Wales
and Northern Ireland.
Motorcyclists should join in the fun
of The Highland Scramble
A favourite with adventurer celebrities
Charley Boorman and Joe Wicks,
this curated all-inclusive adventure
ride starts outside Edinburgh on the
edge of Gleneagles golf resort in
Auchterarder and winds its way
across the breadth of Scotland covering
nearly 1,000 miles over five days.
Events run May–September 2022.
Cyclists should saddle up for a
Ride Across Britain
Push yourself to the limit and make
memories to last a lifetime on one
of the UK’s greatest two-wheeled
challenges. Join hundreds of other
cyclists from Land’s End to John
O’Groats on the ultimate British bike
ride – nearly 1,000 miles in nine days
through marvellous landscapes.
There’s full support en route – food,
mechanics and medics – leaving
you to focus wholly on making
friends – and the road ahead (10–18
September 2022).
BritishTravelJournal.com 65
KILLEAVY CASTLE
Explore the east coast of Ireland from the luxurious
Killeavy Castle Estate.
Set within 350 acres of woodland and working
farmland in the foothills of Slieve Gullion
in County Armagh, Northern Ireland, the
luxurious Killeavy Castle Estate is the perfect
base to explore Ireland, north and south.
Just one hour from Dublin or Belfast, Killeavy Castle
Estate has as its centrepiece the stunningly refurbished
Killeavy Castle – a Grade A listed 19th century gem that
lay derelict for many years before being sympathetically
restored to its former glory. Alongside the Castle there
is an award-winning 45-bedroom luxury boutique
style Hotel, with spa, restaurant and bar, as well as a
picturesque self-catering Gatelodge property.
The Estate opened in 2019 following a £12m investment
and sits within an area of outstanding natural beauty.
While the history and majesty of Killeavy Castle embodies
the luxury experience guests can enjoy, Killeavy is also
grounded in an ethos of sustainability with a working farm
and walled gardens providing 90% of the food served in
the hotel’s award-winning restaurant.
Not only does Killeavy Castle Estate pride itself on
giving guests a first-class experience, it is also leading
66 BritishTravelJournal.com
‘
Guests can visit the farm animals,
walk the walled gardens and see
how expert artisans cure, smoke and
preserve the meat that features on
the Estate’s menus.
’
PROMOTION
the way in sustainable tourism. A new Farm Store and
Estate Garden open in March 2022 giving guests the
opportunity to experience first-hand how the food for
the Estate is produced. Guests can visit the farm animals,
walk the walled gardens and see how expert artisans
cure, smoke and preserve the meat that features on the
Estate’s menus.
Killeavy Castle Estate aims to create a legacy of
sustainability throughout the Estate - that includes
everything from the food that is served to its zero plastics
policy, energy reduction and plans to restore the 19th
century water wheel for renewable energy production.
The Estate is working towards achieving net zero by
2027 and has embarked upon a reforestation initiative
that will see the replanting of Slieve Gullion with
broadleaf trees.
Guests can enjoy the magnificent countryside
surrounding Killeavy Castle Estate with miles of scenic
walking and cycling trails that can be accessed directly
from the Estate. Foraging, forest bathing, mindfulness
experiences and ebike hire are also on offer.
Killeavy Castle Estate’s central location, just one hour
from either Belfast or Dublin airports, makes it the perfect
base to explore the East Coast of Ireland. Guests can take
a daytrip north to visit Belfast with its vibrant shopping and
entertainment scene. The world-leading Titanic Belfast
celebrates its 10th anniversary this year and Belfast’s
Cathedral Quarter, Ulster Museum, Botanic Gardens
and St. George’s Market are all worth a visit.
An hour’s journey south will allow guests to explore
Ireland’s capital city, Dublin where the Guinness
Storehouse, Book of Kells, Trinity College and the historic
Dublin Castle all prove popular visitor attractions.
Closer to home, in County Armagh, where Killeavy
Castle Estate is situated, guests can explore the
Cathedral City of Armagh or visit the Armagh Orchards,
the 250-year-old Robinson Library with its display of rare
books or the Armagh Planetarium.
Game of Thrones fans can visit the first ever Game
of Thrones tour opened in the world at the Linen Mill
Studios, Banbridge, where fans will be treated to a set
tour of all things surrounding the series.
For the more adventurous, a short drive east takes you
to County Down where you can climb the Mountains of
Mourne and master Slieve Donard or visit St. Patrick’s
grave and Visitor Centre in Downpatrick.
Killeavy Castle Estate is the perfect location for a
couple's retreat or romantic getaway. Not only does the
Estate offer luxury and relaxation with the joy of getting
back to nature, but its central location makes it the
ideal base to explore the historic and vibrant cities and
attractions of the surrounding area. ◆
To find out more about Killeavy Castle Estate and
make a reservation visit killeavycastle.com
BritishTravelJournal.com 67
EXPLORE THE UK'S
NATIONAL
PARKS
WITH COLLINS’ NEW POCKET MAPS
AND WALKING GUIDES
68 BritishTravelJournal.com
PROMOTION
Published in association with National
Parks UK, Collins’ official Pocket Maps and
Favourite Walks Guides are a must-have
for any outdoor enthusiast with a desire to
explore the UK’s National Parks.
Offering handy guidance
to each of the National
Parks, the full range of
small-format maps includes
detailed mapping with key park, tourist
and travel information along with a
selection of photographs - ideal for
planning visits to the National Park.
Complementary Favourite Walks
guides for eight of the National Parks
contain 20 of the best circular walking
routes, as chosen by National Park
Rangers. Each walking route varies in
length from two to 10km and can be
completed in less than four hours.
BritishTravelJournal.com 69
“
Following a time when the natural
world around us has been so important
and beneficial to so many of us, it couldn’t
feel more appropriate to publish these
handy guides for visitors planning to
enjoy our National Parks and explore the
UK’s incredible landscape.
”
Alex Beecroft, Managing Director, Collins
Detailed description for each walk is
included, with highlights clearly marked on
the map along with photographs. You’ll
also find general information about the
National Park plus basic advice on walking.
“Collins is delighted to be working with
National Parks UK to publish this new
pocket series of maps and walking guides
which are the perfect complement to more
detailed Ordnance Survey maps,” said
Alex Beecroft, Managing Director, Collins. ◆
70 BritishTravelJournal.com
PREVIOUS SPREAD LEFT
TO RIGHT: GRINDSLOW
KNOLL, PEAK DISTRICT
NATIONAL PARK;
ST NONS CHAPEL,
PEMBROKESHIRE COAST.
CLOCKWISE FROM
LEFT: SIMONSIDE HILLS,
NORTHUMBERLAND
NATIONAL PARK;
BUNGAY, BROADS
NATIONAL PARK;
BUTTERMERE, THE
LAKE DISTRICT; BLUE
LAGOON ABEREIDDY,
PEMBROKESHIRE COAST.
POCKET MAPS FOR EVERY UK NATIONAL PARK
—
New 2022 Pocket Maps for the Brecon Beacons, Exmoor, Lake District,
Loch Lomond & The Trossachs, New Forest and Northumberland have been
added to the current range; the South Downs, Peak District, Snowdonia,
North York Moors, Yorkshire Dales, Broads, Pembrokeshire Coast, Cairngorms
and Dartmoor, meaning there is now a map for every UK National Park
Favourite Walks guides are available for the South Downs, Yorkshire
Dales, Snowdonia - with new 2022 guides covering Broads, Lake District,
Northumberland, Peak District and Pembrokeshire Coast
UK National Parks Pocket Maps, £3.99 and National Park Ranger
Favourite Walks, £6.99 are published by Collins
BritishTravelJournal.com 71
STOCKS HOTEL IS A BEAUTIFUL,
23 BEDROOM, COUNTRY HOUSE
HOTEL LOCATED AT THE HEART
OF SARK
48 HOURS IN SARK
STOCKS
ISLAND HOTEL
Take a step back in time to this magical island
in the south-western English Channel off the
coast of Normandy. Enjoy peace and tranquillity
exploring the picturesque coastal paths, magnificent
gardens and idyllic hidden bays.
Text by Jessica Way
There are many reasons to be smitten with Sark. As the smallest
of the four main Channel Islands (with around 500 'Sercquaise'
living on the island), there are no cars and no street lights – just
unpolluted, unspoilt charming landscape, and many hidden
gems waiting to be discovered. The locals are wonderful, friendly
and quirky – we learned Sark even has its own language, "Sercquiais"
with around 15 people still speaking it today.
Don’t however be fooled by its beauty, Sark is an island you don't mess with.
In August 1990, André Gardes, an unemployed nuclear physicist from
France, attempted an audacious one-man invasion. After arriving on Sark,
he put up posters declaring his intentions to take control the following day at
noon. However, whilst changing the magazine of his automatic rifle the next
morning, the island’s only volunteer police constable arrested him and the
invasion came to an early and unsuccessful end.
Images are by local Sark photographer
Ben Fiore and Jessica's own
BritishTravelJournal.com 73
CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT: SARK HARBOUR; SARK'S STARRY SKIES;
STOCKS POOLSIDE LAWNS, HOME TO WILLOW SCULPTURE OF
RONALDO THE CLYDESDALE HORSE; STOCKS SWIMMING POOL
SURROUNDED BY ACRES OF MATURE WOODLAND AND HOME
TO THE OLDEST MULBERRY TREE IN THE CHANNEL ISLANDS;
STOCKS HOTEL FARMHOUSE; LA COUPEE.
be granted Dark Sky status. Perfect for the band of local
enthusiastic stargazers who run Sark’s astronomical
society, and who today share the wonders of Sark's
magical night-time display with their island visitors.
As a place with no motor vehicles (apart from farm
tractors), journeys are either made by horse and cart, or
by walking and cycling along the tracks and pathways.
The islands of Sark and Little Sark are connected by
a narrow isthmus, La Coupée. For many years it was
believed to be haunted, and residents thought that their
donkeys refused to cross the rocky ridge because they were
frightened by the presence of a ghostly dog named Tchico
- not because of the steep 260ft drops on either side!
We stayed at Stocks Hotel, the finest luxury hotel on
Sark, located at the heart of the Island. Home to the
Armorgie family for 30 years, now owned by the Woolford
and Magell families. Originally an early-Georgian
The Clameur de haro is a traditional custom historically
used on Sark. If a Sarkee believes their rights are being
infringed, (to stop a neighbour from building a fence,
for example) they can still issue an injunction by reciting
the Lord’s Prayer and then crying “Haro, Haro, Haro! To
my aid, my Prince! I am being wronged!” in French, and
the disputed action must be stopped until the matter is
resolved in court.
This was used as recently as 2021 in a boundary dispute
affecting access to a property. Famous for having been
ruled since the 16th century, in a unique, pseudo-feudal
manner by a ‘Seigneur’, the constitution was modernised,
only in 2008, to allow for a democratically elected council
style assembly.
The locals are passionately proud of their island and
quite rightly so. The lack of roads, houses and street lights
enabled Sark to become the first island in the world to
74 BritishTravelJournal.com
“
The lack of roads, houses and
street lights enabled Sark to
become the first island in the world
to be granted ‘Dark Sky’ status.
”
granite farmhouse, becoming a hotel in 1895, sitting in a
sheltered, south-facing valley and surrounded by acres of
grounds, some tended as immaculate gardens and others
given to woodland and meadow. Perfectly presented,
its 23 newly-renovated bedrooms and suites provide
spacious, stylish and comfortable accommodation.
The suntrap terraces, housing a heated, outdoor
swimming pool, are just right for afternoon tea or a
glass of the hotel’s delicious homemade wine, and the
restaurant’s reputation for the quality of its dishes, using,
predominantly, locally sourced ingredients, is absolutely
right – the food is delicious. The gardens feature a
traditional old granite cider press, one of a number still
found in Sark, and adjacent to the swimming pool is
allegedly the oldest mulberry tree in the Channel Islands.
DAY ONE
Life on Sark needs to be experienced to be truly
appreciated. Following a scrumptious farmhouse breakfast
at Stocks Hotel we were determined to see as much of the
Island as possible. Our adventure began with some rather
daring coasteering, scrambling along the picturesque
coastline of Havre Gosselin and Visitor Moorings.
We met James, our guide from Adventure Sark at
their base opposite the Island Hall just a short cycle ride
from Stocks Hotel. Wet suits on, we walked and chatted,
passing the Methodist Chapel, Beauregard Duck Pond
and Pilcher Monument before descending the cliffs to
reach the shoreline.
There was quite a swell in the water, blue skies, crisp air
and a ray of warm morning sunshine.
The rugged natural scenery is just beautiful, and
James assured us the whirlpool waves were perfect for
coasteering as they would soften our landing.
We scrambled around the jagged cliffs, passing
glistening rock pools and exploring inside sea caves. The
water was crystal clear and there was nobody in sight –
it was a chance to really let go and feel at one with the
elements. Living in the moment we gained in confidence
as we took on the higher adrenaline-fuelled jumps.
BritishTravelJournal.com 75
“
The rugged natural scenery is just
beautiful, and James assured us the
whirlpool waves were perfect for
coasteering as they would soften
our landing.
”
We stopped to admire the mock-Gothic castle built
upon Brecqhou, a small island opposite Sark’s west
coast with just the flowing water of Gouliot Passage and
one tiny islet between. Owned by the Barclay brothers,
identical-twin billionaires from England (sadly David,
the elder by ten minutes, passed away in 2021), the
private and remote island is complete with its own private
harbour and helipad.
Grandly situated in the middle is their mysterious
100-foot-high granite walled castle, with no less than 22
cannons. James tells us of the Barclays’ motto, Aut agere
aut mori meaning either do or die, famously inscribed in
the stonework over the entrance. Sark claims Brecqhou
as its own which is strongly refuted by the Barclay family,
who consider Brecqhou as their private property. They
drive cars and land helicopters on Brecqhou, both of
which are prohibited under the Sark law and so this has
caused upset with some of the locals.
We admired the views over Jethou and Herm, as well
as the larger island of Guernsey in the distance before
returning back onto the headland which is a blanket of
bluebells and primroses – a popular picnic spot and place
to sit and watch the sunset.
Next, we head back to the hotel in time to meet Helen
and Alex Magell. Helen’s parents, Jan and Rob Woolford
bought the hotel in 2009 before refurbishing and
reopening it as Stocks.
Helen and Alex live in a beautiful property adjacent to
Stocks Hotel, with access from the hotel gardens, which
they run as a B&B – Le Grand Dixcart. One of the original
Sark farmhouses it includes a very pretty stone cottage
with roses around the windows – sleeps six and has an
indoor pool and guest lounge, with bedrooms named
after Helen and Alex’s much-loved horses, Marmite,
Bagheera, Poddy, Molly, Minstrel, Beau, Ron and Willow.
Willow was ready to take us on a horse and carriage
ride with Helen at the helm. As we rode off Helen told us
how her grandparents had moved to Sark in 1972 and
how she would spend her summer holidays in Sark driving
horses and carriages. Her husband, Alex, originally hails
from Lancashire, and met and fell in love with Helen while
they both studied farming at Agricultural College in the
UK after which Helen introduced Alex to the delights
of Sark. Alex subsequently qualified as a Chartered
Accountant and Helen as a Teacher and they were thrilled
when they had the chance to move to Sark together with
their expanding family in 1999.
Helen and Alex share their passion for giving people a
true Sark welcome and helping them enjoy the beauty of
the island. Helen and Willow took us to see Sark's most
northerly point, stopping at L’Éperquerie Common.
We disembarked and explored the beautifully rugged
headland, discovering the Buddhist Rock Carving before
76 BritishTravelJournal.com
enjoying a picnic with views out to Bec du Nez. Known by
the locals as the Buddhist Carving or Monk's Stone, the
stunning granite rock was carved out for the Millennium
by a Tibetan Buddhist monk, who came over in 1999,
and went all over the island with a friend to find the best
spot to make his carving. The sacred Buddhist mantra is
translated into English, Behold – The jewel in the lotus.
On the ride back to the hotel Willow and Helen took us
through the centre of Sark village as Alex chatted away
pointing out interesting places including Sark’s Prison,
which is (probably) the smallest prison still in use in the
world. We also rode slowly past Le Moulin, Sark’s threestorey
windmill. Used as an observation tower during the
German occupation, it is situated on the highest point on
Sark (114 metres or 374 feet above sea level).
We later wandered through the village ourselves,
discovering yet more points of interest including the post
office full of souvenirs, Sark's only postbox (which in 2012
CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT: JESSICA AND FAMILY COASTEERING
WITH ADVENTURE SARK; LA SEIGNEURIE GARDENS; LE
MOULIN SARK’S THREE-STOREY WINDMILL; JESSICA, HELEN
AND HORSE WILLOW.
was painted gold to celebrate Carl Hester's role in Great
Britain's dressage team's gold medal), the village stores,
fashion boutiques, a stylish gift boutique, wine shop,
museum, bank and several pubs and cafés.
At only three miles long and a mile and a half wide
it doesn’t take long on a bike ride to stumble across yet
another of the Island's highlights, La Seigneurie Gardens,
the traditional residence of the Seigneur of Sark. It is
easy to lose yourself in the maze and wander among the
rose beds, flowers and plants sheltered by granite walls
– many of which would only survive under glass in other
parts of the British Isles. In the summer months, roses by
the leading grower David Austin are beautifully vibrant
and don’t miss the newly-planted vine house, or the
Chapel which tells the history of Sark’s Seigneurs and the
Seigneurie itself. Refuelling is made easy at the gorgeously
renovated 16th-century carriage house terrace café and
restaurant, Hathaway's.
BritishTravelJournal.com 77
CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT: JESSICA AT SARK'S WINDOW IN THE
ROCK; LITTLE SARK'S VENUS POOL; CARAGH CHOCOLATES;
GIANT PINK CHAIR LEFT FROM THE SARK FOLK FESTIVAL;
GRANDE GRÈVE BAY SARK’S LARGEST SANDY BEACH.
DAY TWO
We woke up early to meet Sark’s new dairy farmer, Jason,
a prize-winning cattle breeder. He moved to Sark with his
wife Katherine from Suffolk where they have a farm and
cheese-making business. Locals and guests to the island
are welcome to watch or help Jason feed his herd, and we
were among the first guests to experience his brand new
milking parlour. Locals can now collect fresh milk here
every morning from a vending machine using re-usable
glass bottles. There is even a choice of flavours to add to
your milk, including chocolate, banana, raspberry and
toffee, for those with a sweet tooth.
Following another hearty breakfast back at the hotel
we headed out towards Little Sark in search of the Venus
Pool. Before walking across La Coupée (cycling is not
allowed) we stopped to admire Grande Grève Bay - Sark’s
largest sandy beach, surrounded by a 100-metre cliff with
There was just about time before our dinner reservation
for one last cycle stop and nature walk to the beautiful
pebble beach of Port du Moulin Bay where just a short
detour from the path above you will stumble across the
unmissable and awe-inspiring Window in the Rock. Seigneur
of Sark in the 1850s, Rev Collings blasted the Window in the
Rock into the cliffs above Port Du Moulin in order to frame
the view of Les Autelets – and what a fabulous job, it is an
absolutely stunning and picturesque spot.
A five-minute cycle ride from the Window in the Rock
is the new Captain’s Bar and Bon Marin Café. These are
located inside the Island Hall which is also the Community
Centre and Sark School (where there are around 30
students in total across all year groups). The evening we
visited there was live music and it was burger night, with
beef, chicken, fish, spicy bean and pulled pork on the
menu. Many of the locals had told us the chicken burgers
were unmissable so it was an easy choice all round – and
they didn’t disappoint.
78 BritishTravelJournal.com
“
The natural rock pool is filled with
shimmering deep turquoise water
inviting you in.
”
a steep path of steps (built by volunteers) to lead you
down. Sark’s natural rugged beauty intensifies as you
reach its most southern peninsula - Little Sark. Back
on our bikes, we cycled the floral paths, passing pretty
cottages, an ivy-covered windmill and lots of sheep.
There is a giant pink chair left following the Sark Folk
Festival. It makes a great resting place to look out over
the magnificent southern views towards the sea.
It was also a good sign we were on the right path
to the Venus Pool. As we got closer to the coastline
there were piles of rocks placed by locals that helped
us to find the right path down the cliff. I recommend
good footwear as it is quite a clamber down. Once at
sea-level head left and you will know when you have
found it. The natural rock pool is filled with shimmering
deep turquoise water inviting you in. The unpolluted
freshness of the coastal air makes the cold water
adventure even more enjoyable. I stayed in the water
for around 15 minutes, floating and dipping under a
few times. It was an incredibly tranquil experience (the
best time to visit is two hours on either side of low tide).
Our next stop on the Sark side of La Coupée was
to Caragh Chocolates Café for some of their utterly
delicious hand made chocolate, using the same fresh,
creamy milk we sampled that morning at the new dairy
farm. There is no shortage of chocolate inspiration
with every flavour you can imagine including Sark
cream and champagne, vanilla and tiramisu. We
ordered hot chocolate and hearing about our dip in
the Venus Pool, owner Caragh suggested I might like to
add a shot of rum to mine. Caragh’s also serve healthy
wraps and salads, ice creams, cake, soft drinks, beers
ciders and prosecco. There’s a beautiful garden, a
giant red tractor, and even an outdoor swimming pool.
Caragh also offers masterclasses where you can learn
how to make your own bars and hand-rolled truffles.
From Caragh Chocolates we referred to our map
and decided to make our way through Dixcart Valley
towards Sark Henge. We stopped at Dixcart Bay,
another of Sark’s sand and pebble beaches, and
BritishTravelJournal.com 79
THE PETWORTH PARK
ANTIQUES & FINE ART FAIR
In Partnership with 2Covet
Come and buy the very finest
art and antiques at our eighth
annual event of distinction
THE MARQUEE
PETWORTH PARK
PETWORTH
W. SUSSEX GU28 0QY
13-15 MAY 2022
Friday 11.00 - 18.00
Saturday 10.30 - 18.00
Sunday 10.30 - 17.00
To request a complimentary
invitation for three please
email [email protected]
01797 252030
For updates please visit
www.petworthparkfair.com
THE
ANTIQUES
DEALERS
FAIR
LIMITED
supported by
SARK HENGE BUILT IN 2015 TO COMMEMORATE THE 450 YEAR
ANNIVERSARY OF QUEEN ELIZABETH I GRANTING THE FIEF OF
SARK TO HELIER DE CARTERET, SEIGNEUR OF ST OUEN.
enjoyed exploring inside the giant natural arch rock formation
which framed the sea, reminding us of a Lord of the Rings film
set. We got back on the path, found ourselves a little lost in
Hog’s Back Headland before eventually finding the right path
up high above Derrible Bay where the sun was beginning to set.
Sark Henge with its coastal views out to sea looked wonderful,
golden hour set in and we just sat and marvelled at the views.
We enjoyed a delicious dinner back at the hotel. Feeling
sad it was our last night at Stocks Hotel we stood in awe
once more at the glistening bright stars feeling grateful for
the magic we had found on this beautiful and charming
little island. Sark is all about the simple life and enjoying
nature. With so much fresh air and exercise during the day,
and so little digital stimulation I have never slept so well. It is
no surprise that Sark has been the inspiration of artists and
writers for centuries. It is the perfect destination for a family
adventure, an uplifting health break or a romantic break
for two. No matter which type of holiday you choose, to
experience Sark is worth its entire island weight in gold.
Prices start from £94.50 per person per night, bed and
breakfast during the spring and autumn. Pre-book the new
Stocks Dining Package option for 10% discount off all lunches,
dinners and drinks at Stocks Hotel. Furthermore, stay for 4
nights or longer and Stocks Hotel will refund your Guernsey-
Sark return ferry fare with the Isle of Sark Shipping Company.
stockshotel.com
TOP TIPS FOR VISITING SARK
—
Getting to Sark is part of the adventure
Flying with Aurigny from Southampton to
Guernsey takes just 45-minutes, jump in a
taxi taking 15-minutes from the airport to
St Peter Port followed by a 45-minute boat
ride over to Sark (tickets are available from
the Isle of Sark Shipping Company). Plus,
pop into Sark Visitor Centre for information
about local events, maps, walks and leaflets.
Take some time to explore Guernsey
between your transfers
We left our luggage in the hold at St Peter
Port and walked 10 minutes to Castle Cornet
to watch the noonday gun. For lunch, stop
in at Crêpe Maison for Crêpes Suzette and
Rocquette Cider.
Be sure to have some money for the
passenger tractor bus. On arrival at Sark
buses takes passengers and their luggage
up the rather steep hill. It is only a couple of
quid but they will only accept cash.
Stay at Stocks Hotel
Everything is looked after for you as a guest
of Stocks. On arrival your luggage is whisked
away and transported to your hotel for you,
enabling you to start your holiday from the
moment you arrive on the island.
Bike hire is essential for adventurers
We collected ours from A to B Cycles in
Mermaid Lane just a short walk from where
the tractor bus drops you on the Avenue at
the centre of the Island.
Remember to take head torches
With no street lights and many dangerous
cliffs you will be grateful for them when you
are still exploring in the evening under the
bright stars.
BritishTravelJournal.com 81
NOTTINGHAM
Nottingham is a city long associated with Robin Hood – but Britain’s
largest small city is packed with much more than just legends and it’s
waiting to welcome you back safely.
The city of Nottingham has had a longstanding
association with Britain’s most famous outlaw,
Robin Hood. The legend tells of a man who
robbed from the rich and gave to the poor, a
real rebel hero throughout the ages. It’s this exciting spirit
that lives on in Nottingham; there’s so much packed into
this small city that it’s bursting with culture, history and
surprises around every corner.
Nottingham is one of the UK’s most historical cities,
where you can experience 1,000 years of history in
ancient castles, stop for a pint or two at some of the
country’s oldest inns and pubs, as well as exploring the
hidden caves that twist and turn beneath the city streets.
Being a small city, Nottingham is also easy to explore
on foot and benefits from an award-winning tram
system. However, don’t let its small size deceive you,
Nottingham is a city with a truly vibrant music and arts
scene, with internationally-acclaimed galleries and
82 BritishTravelJournal.com
PROMOTION
IMAGES © CLARE JONES / LIYUAN LIU / VISIT NOTTINGHAMSHIRE
“... don’t let its small size deceive
you, Nottingham is a city with a
truly vibrant music and arts scene.
”
music venues standing testament to this. The Hockley area
of the city, just off the historic Lace Market (once the lace
making capital of the world), is home to some incredible
independent venues, with great places to eat and explore if
you fancy something with a more alternative feel.
Businesses in retail and hospitality have also worked
tirelessly to ensure Nottingham has been able to welcome
visitors back safely. From working with Visit England’s
We’re Good to Go! scheme, to supporting one-way systems
throughout the city centre, Nottingham’s tourism, hospitality
and retail offering has worked hard to ensure Nottingham
remains a safe destination to visit.
Nottingham is also blessed with stunning architecture,
the home of Watson Fothergill, famed for his use of
contrasting red and blue bricks as well as elaborate turrets
on buildings. Much of Nottingham’s grand and aweinspiring
Lace Market was designed in this style and is a
must visit for those interested in city architecture.
Those wishing to visit Nottingham will have no trouble
finding somewhere to stay, with charming boutique hotels
right throughout the city, there’s something to suit all tastes.
Whether you’re looking for high end hotels or something a
little more private, visitors are spoiled for choice.
Nottingham is also famous for a strong culinary scene.
With cuisines from all four corners of the globe and awardwinning
restaurants in no short supply, you can enjoy an
epicurean adventure right in the heart of England.
There’s also something for lovers of sport. The city has a
fine sporting pedigree, with two of England’s oldest football
clubs and one of the world’s most iconic cricket grounds all
within a short walk of one another. Visitors are able to soak
up some of the best sporting atmospheres found anywhere
in the UK. ◆
Nottingham is a city that’s truly buzzing with life,
with new experiences waiting around every corner – and
it’s waiting to be discovered. To plan your next trip to
Nottingham: visit-nottinghamshire.co.uk
BritishTravelJournal.com 83
WELCOME BACK
TO NOTTINGHAM!
Visit Nottingham and take
a journey to the heart of England
Walk in the footsteps of the famous legend Robin Hood in a city that’s
full of surprises. The UK’s biggest small city that’s easy to explore on
foot, stumble across hidden bars and restaurants. Visit Nottingham’s
independent shops and soak in the famous Watson Fothergill
architecture. Stop for a drink at England’s oldest inn and experience
a thousand years of history at Nottingham Castle, fresh from a £30
million makeover. A city that’s buzzing with life, with new experiences
around every corner – waiting to be discovered.
PLAN YOUR NEXT STAY AT VISIT-NOTTINGHAMSHIRE.CO.UK
Funded by the European Regional Development Fund and HM Government
as part of the Welcome Back Fund:
84 BritishTravelJournal.com
IMAGE: TRACEY WHITEFOOT AND NOTTINGHAM CASTLE TRUST
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INTERVIEW WITH JOHN HITCHCOX
THE LAKES
BY YOO
Getting away from it all is paramount to our wellbeing.
Showing this to be true, is this exclusive Cotswolds
retreat that is currently a sanctuary to over one hundred
families. John Hitchcox tells us about his vision for this
very special countryside estate and the stylish new
lakeside cabins and apartments.
Text by Jessica Way
86 BritishTravelJournal.com
CLOCKWISE
FROM LEFT:
NEW LAKESIDE
CABINS; INFINITY
POOL AT THE
NEW LAKESIDE
APARTMENTS;
JESSICA CHATS
TO CEO JOHN
HITCHCOX.
One more visit to The Lakes
by Yoo is never enough.
This private-gated 900-
acre countryside retreat is
designed to feel so much
like home, you never want to leave – and
when you do, you are left eager to return.
It was a concept developed way ahead
of its time, dreamt up by successful
property entrepreneur John Hitchcox,
while living in London and imagining a
better upbringing for his kids, “I was a
total urbanite, but I wanted the kids to be
brought up in the country – somewhere
they could play outside, explore woodland,
go sailing and more.”
This heavenly oasis is designed as a
bolthole to come back to, with many
residents owning properties as lifestyle
investments. There’s a warm village
community where property owners and
rental guests alike are made to feel
extremely welcome in a reassuring and
peaceful setting for contemporary modern
living. Just as John had hoped, it is “a place
parents can come with their children, at
weekends and during school holidays,
picking up as much country living as they
can, while still enjoying the benefits of a
life in London too”. During the late 1990’s
John co-founded Yoo (the property design
company behind The Lakes by Yoo) with
Philippe Starck, known by many as the
world’s most talented designer.
“Over the years I have worked with
many world class designers, mostly notably
my business partner Philippe. Above all,
we are always looking to do something
that is different to everyone else.” This was
back in 1999 – and what a vicennium it
has been, the property dream team have
stopped at nothing, pulling out all the
stops, and achieving so much.
Yet, here we are in 2022, more than
twenty years later, and another exciting
chapter to the story is just beginning to
unfold – with the Lakes by Yoo first-ever
lakeside cabins and apartments.
Interior design masterpieces, 4-6
bedroom homes, are dotted about the
glorious parkland lakes, woods and
meadows. (Prices for these homes range
between £2m and £7m, with many
available for rental costing between
£12,000 and £40,000 per week). The
lakeside cabins and apartments, however,
are first-time smaller properties have been
designed on the estate and they are
BritishTravelJournal.com 87
available to rent from £1,000 per
night – or to buy from £1.1 million.
Available in a range of layouts and
styles, each property at the Lakes is
bespoke. “We make sure each property
blends in with the scenery, so it feels
harmonious,” John explains. “And we
insist on using entirely local materials –
larch from local farms, Cotswold stone,
for instance.”
Staying overnight with my family
in the first finished cabin was
an absolute delight. Inside is as
breathtakingly beautiful as the lakes
on the outside, decorated using a rich
and earthy colour palette of burnt
reds, chocolates and ochres.
There are deep velvet armchairs,
eclectic artwork and vintage
ornaments, double-height open plan
living with a glazed frontage that
floods the room with natural light, and
a spacious outdoor entertaining deck.
We were especially impressed
by the bespoke and convenient
folding kitchenette – which can be
concealed when not in use. There’s
a wood burner that sits in front of a
beautiful stone wall extending into
the double height living area, and
lots of local materials including tonal
timbers and statement pendant
lighting, handwoven in willow by
local craftsmen. Even the beds
and mattresses are handmade in
Devon using natural fibres from a
sustainable resource.
And it is not just the
accommodation offering that has
benefited from a huge investment.
Over the past decade the team
have taken what was previously a
barren 850-acre gravel pit expanse
to a beautiful, secluded setting,
complete with a wealth of natural
wildlife and stunning scenery. At
the heart of John Hitchcox’s vision is
the creation of a conservation park
to reinvest in the countryside which
included the planting of 500,000
new trees, multiple new lakes, and
woodland habitats. There is also
a farm with livestock, chickens
and market garden, as well as
beehives and a whole range of other
sustainable and ecological initiatives.
“Sustainability is at the heart of
everything we do across the Yoo
Group, which is why we even have the
company Yoo Energy, dedicated to
alternative energy such as wind farms
and other sources.”
It is no surprise that the exclusive
resort is a firm-favourite with many
celebrity and VIP guests, with Simon
le Bon, Kate Moss and Jade Jagger
among John’s closest friends. “You
could call it entirely selfish, but I tend
to build things that I love. With regard
to the Lakes, my vision was to create
a beautiful estate for my children.
Ironically, by the time it was ready,
my eldest had grown up and fled the
nest, but seeing other families and
children enjoying the estate still made
me incredibly happy”.
Within easy walking distance of
the new cabins and apartments is
the Orchard Spa, a glorious 17 metre
heated pool, sauna, steamroom and
jacuzzi and therapists for indulgent
treatments. There is also the on-site
tepee restaurant, Lynwood Café, a
much-loved part of the estate serving
a range of food and drink, from
cappuccinos to café eats. Most weeks
they have special guest food and
drink visits. Throughout the summer
they have pit and fire night serving
flamed grills to residents three times
a week. Plans are also underway
to create a larger restaurant and
clubhouse to suit the increasing needs
of residents and guests.
All the produce from the farm as
well as eggs and honey are offered
on a complimentary basis to all
residents. There are numerous on-site
activities including paddle boarding,
zip wiring, yoga, fishing, canoeing,
kayaking and bike hire.
The resort even boasts its own
resident Bear Grylls, Angus, who
looks after the maintenance of the
lakes while keeping the youngest
guests (and the young at heart)
enthused, entertained and safe
during activities. We first met Angus
during our experience on the Zip
Wire across Warrens Cross Lake.
His assurance was most welcomed,
especially during the ‘leap of faith’
descent from the top ledge of the
climbing wall.
There’s lots to keep little Lakes’
explorers entertained too – in
addition to a Kids Club with Sharky
and George, they have a packed
schedule of fun including workshops
in pizza making, martial arts, fairy
princess crown making, and den
building. Tennis coaching classes,
rugby training and football training
are also available to book.
“Everyone feels like they’re part
of things here. We wanted to build
a community and have residents
be part of those things they care
about. And that’s what we’ve got
here – a group of like-minded people,
most are from London, but with an
international flair. Now our residents
88 BritishTravelJournal.com
THE LAKES BY
YOO, THE MOST
EXCLUSIVE
LAKESIDE ESTATE
IN ENGLAND.
“
Typically, a day at The Lakes involves family. We are up bright and early for a
quick cappuccino, then out on the canoes, lunch on the BBQ... biking or sailing for
the afternoon and either an outdoor movie or a walk by the river in the evening.
”
all know each other, and they
appreciate that – they know what it’s
like to be in a new country and start
again with the social life.”
During our stay, the Lakes Art Park
had just launched at the estate, housing
the artworks Your Dog and GONE by
Yoshitomo Nara and KAWS. The idea
behind the Lakes Art Park is for the
Lakes to showcase work by some of
the world’s finest artists and sculptors
and provide a cultural extension for
residents and visitors. “It has long been
our vision to champion immersive and
enriching new experiences. We are
thrilled to be partnering with artistic
talent from around the world to
enhance the cultural and educational
experience for families and young
people on the estate.”
“For me it’s all about the creative
use of space, whether that be a
vertical village in Panama, this private
estate in the Cotswolds or even
our redevelopment of Olympia in
London. It’s all about bringing new
ideas and innovation to the concept”.
Just another one of John’s impressive
projects of the moment…
“I am so excited about Olympia.
We really are re-imagining and
restoring one of Britain’s greatest
landmarks for the 21st century.
Construction is well under way, and
we cannot wait to introduce it to the
public in a couple of years.”
I asked John how he likes to spend
his time at the Lakes. “Typically, a day
at The Lakes involves family. We are up
bright and early for a quick cappuccino,
then out on the canoes, lunch on the
BBQ. It’s then often a choice between
biking or sailing for the afternoon and
either an outdoor movie or a walk by
the river in the evening”. We agreed,
one silver lining from Covid-19 has been
the awakening to our family time and
health with nothing more important
than our experiences and memories.
I don’t think John could have planned
better timing for the lakeside cabins and
apartments to launch.
I was also curious to find some
insider knowledge, asking John where
on the estate he likes to be the most –
and if he has any favourite hideouts.
“We are lucky to have 950 acres and
many of us have our own favourite
secret places. I shouldn’t tell you
mine, but we sometimes take an old
Land Rover down to the far end of the
river for a picnic. It always amazes
me that however many families are
visiting the estate, it never feels busy”.
There’s no question that it is John’s
children who are to thank for his
overall motivation.
As we left waving goodbye, John
and his four-year old son Marley rode
past us on their bikes smiling back.
John’s idea for creating memories with
a taste of the countryside for those
desperate to escape the everyday of
London has not only been realised,
John himself is now benefiting from
his own vision and dream.
thelakesbyyoo.com
BritishTravelJournal.com 89
10 OF THE BEST
AFTERNOON
TEAS
There is nothing quite like sitting down for
afternoon tea, the warming tea blends, sweet
and savoury treats. In a year that celebrates Her
Majesty becoming the first British Monarch to
reach the Platinum Jubilee milestone of 70 years
of service, there is even more reason to indulge
in a spot of tea or raise your champagne glass.
With celebrations happening up and down the
country, why not commemorate the jubilee in
some of these amazing locations? Whatever your
mood, we bring you some of the most beautiful
places to savour every sip and scone…
Text by Tallulah Rushaya
90 BritishTravelJournal.com
1
BEST FOR FEELING AT HOME
Dubbed ‘Mayfair’s best sitting room’ The
Promenade, at The Dorchester, on Park
Lane, will make you feel like a star, with the
atmosphere created by the friendly and
attentive Dorchester staff to match. With grand
Corinthian marble columns, gold adorning
both sides and quilted chesterfield sofas to
recline into, it is the perfect place to allow the
hours pass by. Guests will be treated to the
sight of masterful bouquets created by florist
Philip Hammond, featuring The Dorchester
Rose from Meijer Roses of Holland, that arrived
in 2020, and was seven years in the making.
There is a resident pianist playing from an
extremely broad repertoire, including film
classics, and theatre, for you to sway along to.
The Dorchester’s Afternoon Tea is a true blend
of East meets West, you will be able to enjoy a
range of savoury finger sandwiches on artisan
bread, using the best of English produce, with
tea fusions taking you on a sensory journey.
Starts from £80 per person,
dorchestercollection.com
BritishTravelJournal.com 91
2
BEST FOR PANORAMIC
VIEWS
Take in the lavish surroundings of the
Berkshire countryside, overlooking
the landscape and the beautiful
gardens of Cliveden. Served in The
Cliveden Dining Room Monday to
Saturday and in the distinguished
décor of The Great Hall on Sundays,
wherever you are, you will be
surrounded by period beauty. Guests
can feel like royalty with the Platinum
Jubilee Afternoon Tea, curated by
Executive Chef, Chris Hannon,
that consists of favourite dishes
from England, Scotland, Wales
and Ireland. A perfectly prepared
selection of finger sandwiches,
freshly baked scones with homemade
jam and clotted cream, miniature
delectable bite-size cakes, and
delicacies including Queen Elizabeth’s
favourite, chocolate biscuit cake. For
something slightly more extravagant,
the Champagne Platinum Jubilee
Afternoon Tea includes a glass of
Laurent-Perrier with your classic
afternoon tea experience.
Starts from £45 per person,
clivedenhouse.co.uk
3
BEST FOR BEING SPOILT
FOR CHOICE
Famed for their delectable Fat
Rascals, that brings visitors from
both near and far, Bettys will leave
you spoilt for choice. With the option
of five heavenly tea rooms across
God’s own county, Yorkshire, the two
biggest tea rooms being in Harrogate
and York, Bettys is truly an institution.
Served in the Imperial Room in Bettys
Harrogate, and the Belmont Room
in York, you will be transported to a
bygone era, within the atmospheric
art deco interior, inspired by the
Queen Mary ocean liner. Available
are an ever changing range of treats,
for the seasons, with afternoon
tea classics such as scones. Some
elements are reimagined such as
coronation Yorkshire chicken. There
are vegetarian, vegan afternoon teas
too, as well as Pink Champagne and
Prosecco Afternoon Tea, if you are
in a celebratory mood. We did say
you would be spoilt for choice! For
the Queen’s 70th Jubilee year, Bettys
Bakery have crafted a wide range of
Jubilee inspired treats, fit for royalty,
to enjoy anywhere, including Jubilee
Champagne Macaroons, Jubilee
Chocolate Teapot, a new Dundee
Cake presented in a keepsake tin and
a Jubilee Gift Box with Corgi biscuits.
Starts from £28.95 per person,
bettys.co.uk
92 BritishTravelJournal.com
4
CLOCKWISE FROM TOP: BETTYS JUBILEE AFTERNOON TEA;
THE ROYAL CRESCENT’S JUBILEE AFTERNOON TEA AND GARDEN
PARTY; CLIVEDEN HOUSE'S CHAMPAGNE PLATINUM JUBILEE
AFTERNOON TEA.
BEST FOR ARCHITECTURE
APPRECIATORS
Situated in the heart of the Grade I
Listed Royal Crescent in the historical
city of Bath, The Royal Crescent
Hotel and Spa is a fine example
of sweeping, curved 250-year-old
Georgian architecture, overlooking
the perfectly manicured lawn of
the Royal Victoria Park. In their
award-winning restaurant, The
Dower House, you can indulge in a
piece of the Bridgerton experience,
as the façade of the Royal Crescent
served as a filming location for
the Netflix show. With the finest
selection of aromatic flavours from
Ronnefeldt Teas, with a diverse range
from Golden Assam to Rooibos to
accompany your Royal Crescent
Classic or Vegetarian Afternoon Tea,
you can converse freely, without the
worry of later being the subject of
Lady Whistledown’s revelations. For
the Jubilee, guests are invited to The
Royal Crescent’s Jubilee Garden Party
on the Thursday to commence the
June Bank Holiday celebrations. Also
available, the chance to dine like a
Queen with their Jubilee Joy package,
including a two-night stay in either
a luxurious room or suite, a special
Jubilee-themed cocktail, a six course
tasting menu on one night of your
stay and champagne afternoon tea
on one afternoon during your stay.
Starts from £39.50 per person.
Jubilee Joy package: prices starts from
£530 per room per night, in a Deluxe
double room, based on a two-night
package (Wednesday 1st June until
Monday 6th June), royalcrescent.co.uk
BritishTravelJournal.com 93
5
BEST FOR ART
AFICIONADOS
If you know your Matisse from your
Picasso, or generally have a keen eye
for art, look no further than Sketch.
Composed of four restaurants, one
with three Michelin Stars, Sketch
is akin to an Alice in Wonderland of
culinary adventure. The Gallery
Room, where afternoon tea is hosted,
is adorned with a millennial pink
backdrop created by designer India
Mahdavi. It has hosted work by a
range of artists, including Tracey
Emin and David Shrigley, and is the
perfect place to sink into the comfort
of the sumptuous scallop-shaped
seats, while snapping photos for
your Instagram. Sketch has exclusive
seasonal menus for Mother’s Day
from 25–28 March and Easter from
15–18 April. A French spin on the
British tradition, your tastebuds will
be revolutionised, with potential
offerings of bergamot macaroon and
truffle brioche bun sandwiches.
Starts from £69 per person,
sketch.london
6
BEST FOR A FAMILY DAY OUT
Although Goodwood is the location
for the Festival of Speed, there will be
no rush taking afternoon tea here. In
fact, there is so much time, you can
actually take a tour of Goodwood
House and have afternoon tea.
Set within a glorious 12,000-acre
Sussex estate within the South Downs
National Park, Goodwood is one
for the countryside dwellers. After
walking through the magnificent
Front Hall to the Ballroom where
tea is taken, surrounded by one of
the finest art collections in Britain,
it will be hard to leave without the
tour. Goodwood’s afternoon tea
uses organic estate grown and
reared produce, which is available
in the Farm Shop to bring a piece of
Goodwood home. There is the Adult
Tea, including Goodwood Ale Fruit
Cake, and Passionfruit & Raspberry
tarts, with generous portions,
leaving nearly all with a slice to take
away. The Children’s Tea can satisfy
the fussiest of eaters, with lemon
meringue tartlets and chocolate
brownies, just to a name a few.
Afternoon Tea & Tour of Goodwood
House is £29 per person (adults) or
£10 per person for 4-12 year olds,
goodwood.com
94 BritishTravelJournal.com
7
CLOCKWISE FROM TOP: AFTERNOON TEA IN
THE BALLROOM, GOODWOOD; AFTERNOON TEA
IN THE DRAWING ROOM, DUKES HOTEL;
AFTERNOON TEA, SKETCH.
BEST FOR LUXURY
A stone’s throw away from royal
haunts such as St James’s Palace,
and of course Buckingham Palace,
Dukes offers a selection of traditional
sandwiches, handmade patisseries,
fruit and plain scones, plus 'cake
of the day', all freshly baked by the
in-house Pastry Chef. The Drawing
Room sets the scene, overlooking a
tranquil courtyard garden. Dukes
London has partnered with The East
India Company to offer a range of
delicious, aromatic and refreshing
fine loose-leaf teas and infusions.
They also offer a special MarTEAni
Afternoon Tea, to celebrate the
hotel's legendary martinis at Dukes
Bar where James Bond’s creator Ian
Fleming, a frequent visitor, sought
inspiration for the character’s
favourite drink. Vegan options are
offered as well as a Little Dukes and
Duchesses Afternoon Tea, for the
little ones in your life. A unique Jubilee
Package is available, with a stay in
their Junior or One Bedroom Suite.
You can be treated to champagne
in your suite on arrival, English
Breakfast served in either their Great
British Restaurant or the comfort of
your suite, a Jubilee afternoon tea
served in The Drawing Room and a
classic Jubilee picnic to enjoy in the
royal parks in addition to access to
hotel’s health club and Dukes Bar.
Starts from £35 per person, for the
Jubilee Package a Junior Suite the daily
rate is £960 and for a One Bedroom
Suite, the daily rate is £1,050, packaged
based on a minimum two night stay for
two guests, dukeshotel.com
BritishTravelJournal.com 95
8
CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT: THE
GORING DINING ROOM; SUPERBLOOM
TOWER OF LONDON; AFTERNOON TEA
AT THE SAVOY HOTEL.
BEST FOR VINTAGE
LOVERS
Surrounded by the romanticism of
antique shops on Kensington Church
Street, evoking a Richard Curtis
film ambience, is the Candella Tea
Room. Its interior reflects charm,
with a range of vintage tea ware,
and painted panels. The Candella’s
Afternoon Tea has a choice of
traditional sandwich fillings, with
subtle modern twists, such as freerange
egg mayonnaise and chives
brioche bun. With freshly made
scones, you can opt for the classic
plain and raisin scone or explore
lemon and blueberry or chocolate
orange scones. There is also a choice
of a Contemporary Afternoon Tea
selection. To satisfy your sweet
cravings, Candella has an extensive
list of popular tea blends such as
Lady Grey, a black Ceylon tea with
sun ripened orange peel and Thai
lemongrass, and bergamot oil.
From mango mousse, encased in an
almond cake sponge, to pistachio
opera gateau and bite sized
macaroons in flavours including Earl
Grey. With so much to try, why not
buy a blend to take home from the
tea shop?
Starts from £18.95 per person,
candellatearoom.com
9
BEST FOR ELEGANCE AND
TRADITION
Guests have been gracing the
Thames Foyer, enjoying the
world-famous afternoon tea at
The Savoy, since it opened in 1889,
honouring the British tradition of
afternoon tea that stretches back
to 1840. The Savoy is the perfect
spot to be enchanted by London’s
thoroughfare of the bustling Strand,
balanced by the calm of the River
Thames. Home to the concept of the
dinner-dance, The Savoy’s afternoon
tea extends itself to introduce a
sociable and warm atmosphere into
your experience. An enchanting
glass-domed atrium, with an ornate
stained-glass cupola, allows you to
bask in the natural light from above,
where below is the enchanting cast
metal gazebo, housing a grand
piano. Each menu has been highly
curated for you to experience a range
of flavours, with patisseries that are
described as tempting works of art.
Starts from £65 per person,
thesavoylondon.com
96 BritishTravelJournal.com
10
BEST FOR SUNNY DAYS
Trace back history with The Goring,
where Queen Elizabeth held her
Coronation dinner in 1953. The
Grade I listed hotel is a firm Royal
favourite. Within walking distance
of Buckingham Palace, to celebrate
the Platinum Jubilee, there cannot
be a more suitable venue to enjoy
any day of the week. There is lots to
look forward to, including a Platinum
Jubilee Afternoon Tea, which will
include sandwiches such as Clarence
Court egg and cress and Smoked
John Ross salmon with caper and
lemon to name a few. There will also
be a special recreation of The Queen’s
Coronation Menu dinner, which will
see dishes such as Cornet de Saumon
Fumé. Other treats include a Jubilee
Fizz champagne cocktail by barman
extraordinaire Tiago Mira. For those
more horticulturally inclined, there
will be a chance to admire a garden
installation of The Queen Elizabeth II
Rose by the award-winning Harkness
Roses, and a Royal dressing up box
for the little ones who can see the
return of Teddy the Shetland Pony.
Starts from £60 per person,
thegoringhotel.com
MORE WAYS TO CELEBRATE
THE QUEEN’S JUBILEE
—
Superbloom Tower of London
In celebration of the Queen’s Platinum
Jubileee between 1 June–18 September 2022
you can slide into 20 million new blooms in
the Tower of London’s moat.
Buckingham Palace and Royal Mews
London will be abuzz with things to do and
places to see. Buckingham Palace is
re-opening its State Rooms in July, while the
Royal Mews, with its coaches, carriages and
stables, will unlock its doors in May – plus,
don't miss the Gold State Coach used by the
Queen for her coronation in 1953.
Four day UK bank holiday weekend
The festivities and fanfare will come to a
head on one weekend: 2–5 June 2022, with
pomp and pageantry and a Thanksgiving
service at St Paul’s Cathedral.
The Queen’s Birthday Parade (Trooping
the Colour) Over 1,400 parading soldiers,
200 horses and 400 musicians will come
together in the traditional Parade to mark
The Queen's official birthday, usually held
on the second Saturday in June.
BritishTravelJournal.com 97
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ACROSS
9 In abundance (1,4)
10 Tracking every penny (2,1,6)
11 Knock on the door (3-1-3)
12 "Lady of the Lake" loch (7)
13 Sinatra confused a skilled
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ACROSS: 1 Cardiff 5 Hidcote 9 Blithe 10 Swimming 11 Michelin
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