British Travel Journal | Autumn/Winter 2022

BRITISH TRAVEL

JOURNAL

AUTUMN/WINTER 2022 | ISSUE 13

BRITISHTRAVELJOURNAL.COM

WONDER

IN WALES

12-PAGE

special

£6.75

+ TRAVEL NEWS | WILDLIFE | INTERVIEWS | HOTELS | LUXURY BREAKS

WINTER ON TRESCO

Time to be immersed in the wilds of an island winter. In the

occasional storm and its seaspray slinging drama. In the wonder of a

subtropical garden blooming in the midst of a British winter. In the

cosy heart of the island at our newly-refurbished island inn.

TRESCO.CO.UK/WINTER

Tresco: 28 miles off the Cornish coast. Somewhere else altogether.

CONTRIBUTIONS

BRITISH TRAVEL

JOURNAL

BritishTravelJournal.com

Welcome

EDITOR’S LETTER

—

EDITORS

EDITOR-IN-CHIEF Jessica Way

FEATURES EDITOR Samantha Rutherford

CHIEF SUB-EDITOR Angela Harding

HEAD OF DIGITAL Adrian Wilkinson

CONTRIBUTORS

Chantal Haines, Tonwen Jones, Jane Knight,

Karyn Noble, Natalie Paris, Charlotte Varela,

Karolina Wiercigroch

COVER PHOTO

—

Grove of Narberth, Pembrokeshire

© Image Editor's own

Published by

CONTISTA MEDIA

Unit 6, Basepoint, Andersons Road,

Southampton, SO14 5FE

01489 660680

contistamedia.co.uk

Travel and relaxation merge together

seamlessly during the quieter offseason

months, enabling the perfect

opportunity to embark on your

own effortless journey, so why settle for one

destination when you could discover an entire

region? Our Cymru special shows you how to curate

your own Wonder in Wales – an epic adventure through three

spectacular counties spanning the country’s west coast (page

48) – before whetting your appetite further with our Gourmet

Guide to Wales (page 60).

If you prefer foraging for your food and blending your

favourite tipples, then our Black Autumn Magic truffle-hunting

experiences (page 34) and Kindred Spirits behind-the-scenes

distillery tours (page 26) are idyllic reading. Our gastronomic

theme continues with our Star Man, British chef Simon Rogan

who chats to us about the importance of field-to-fork dining

and the success behind his flagship restaurant L’Enclume, which

has just celebrated its 20th anniversary year and been awarded

its third Michelin star (page 42).

Discover our natural world, enjoying picturesque walks and

beautiful gardens, from a luxurious subtropical Valley of Paradise

in a hidden corner of Cornwall (page 70) to Wildlife Walks,

spotting water voles, butterflies and four-spotted chasers

(page 64).

However you choose to spend your time, I hope this issue

inspires your sense of adventure and ignites your passion to

delve deeper – and you enjoy a season of intrepid trips filled with

incredible moments. Thank you for all your support of British

Travel Journal this year – we love hearing from you, so please

don’t forget to share or tag your best travel pictures with us.

Jessica x

JESSICA WAY

EDITOR-IN-CHIEF

–

All rights reserved by Contista Media Ltd. Copyright is either

owned by or licenced to Contista Media Ltd, or permitted by the

original copyright holder. Reproduction in whole or part without

written permission is strictly prohibited. While every care is taken

prices and details are subject to change and Contista Media Ltd

take no responsibility for omissions or errors. Views expressed by

authors are not necessarily those of the publisher.

@BritishTravelJournal

@BritishTravelJournal

@BTravelJournal

BritishTravelJournal.com 3

A LUXURIOUS SEVEN BEDROOM SELF-CATERING HAVEN IN SUSSEX

www.southdownshouse.co.uk

CONTENTS

AUTUMN/WINTER 2022 | ISSUE 13

09

48

80

JOTTINGS

09

TRAVEL NEWS

This edition’s enticing autumn and winter escapes cater to

all tastes, from a palatial Roman villa at The Newt in Somerset to

a self-catering bus turned miniature home with Swedish hot tub, or

take to the skies with next-level treehouses in The Lakes District.

TOP TEN AUTUMN BREAKS

80 Enjoy the seasonal autumnal beauty in our curated

selection of luxury experiences; whether you prefer wild foraging

in Abergavenny or apple-pressing and glamping in Cornwall, we

have hot tips for all corners of Britain.

CAMPERVAN ROAD TRIPS

88 Why bother with airport queues when you can hit the

road in style. We test-drive some of the best British road trips in

Yescapa campervans.

FOR YOUR JOURNEY

98 Unwind with our cosy autumnal book recommendations or

sharpen the mind with a crossword challenge.

FEATURES

24

UNDER THE SPOTLIGHT: THE FOX AT

ODDINGTON

Editor Jessica Way reviews popular Cotswolds hotel, The Fox at

Oddington, which has been revamped for maximum indulgence,

from the ‘foxylicious’ food to the artistic interiors and private

drinking dens.

KINDRED SPIRITS

26 This is our pick of the must-visit distilleries that you should

explore on your next road trip (perhaps with a driver!).

BLACK AUTUMN MAGIC

34 We uncover the renaissance of English truffles, with

expeditions in Sussex, Dorset, Hampshire and Wiltshire revealing

the prized nuggets that grace some of the best restaurants in the

country.

WONDER IN WALES

48 Join us on the newly launched Celtic Routes journey

through West Wales, an adventure that winds through scenic

Carmarthenshire, Pembrokeshire and Ceredigion, dotted with

natural wonders and historic landmarks.


E D I T O R

L O V E S

The heatwave season might be over

but that doesn’t mean our outdoor fun

should stop. Beach days, dog walks

and wild swims should be activities

we enjoy all the year round – and

thanks to these thermally lined stylish

weatherproof boiler suits they can

be, and with effortless style. Say hello

to the brand new Wylding suit; the

perfect new fashion statement musthave

for camping, paddleboarding,

sailing, festivals and more!

priced £160 wylding.co.uk

YOUR GOURMET GUIDE TO

60 WALES

With a Welsh restaurant nominated as the

UK’s best and the World Cheese Awards being

hosted in Wales in 2022, now is the time to

discover this underrated country’s gourmet

delights.

WILDLIFE WALKS

64 If you’ve wondered where to see wild

orchids while wandering in Britain, or the

perfect spot to admire peregrine falcons and

other natural phenomena, this article from

Wildlife Walks author Charlotte Varella will

open your eyes.

THE VALLEY OF PARADISE

70 We take a trip to Cornwall to review the

recently refurbished Hotel Meudon, an idyllic

escape with its own private beach, high-class

dining, and nine acres of exquisite gardens –

it’s dog-friendly too.

AN EXTRAVAGANT

94 REFURBISHMENT

The £16-million refurbishment of Leeds’

historic site The Queen’s Hotel is a good

excuse to learn more about its glamorous

heyday and new must-dine destination, the

Grand Pacific restaurant.

Subscription Offer

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britishtraveljournal.com/subscribe

INTERVIEWS

42

SIMON ROGAN

Celebrating the 20th anniversary of his

three-Michelin-starred restaurant L’Enclume

in the Lake District, chef Simon Rogan is a

pioneer of field-to-fork dining and a long-time

champion of sustainability. He chats to us

about his ambitions and his spectacular local

ingredients.

Not only do these fragrances smell

wonderful, they come as a gorgeous

mini-travel collection of 6ml spritzing

bottles. Perfect for people who like to

wear perfume when they travel.

Priced, three for £80, or six for £150

matiere-premiere.com/en/fragrance/

6 BritishTravelJournal.com

42

This is Refreshing.

For epic holidays all year round.

This is Wales.

Freshwater West, Pembrokeshire

visitwales.com

a profound journey

of rediscovery along the

rivers of britain

‘A knockout.’

Melissa Harrison

‘Quietly courageous.’

Patrick Barkham

learn more

available now

STYLISH RETREATS IN THE UK’S HOTTEST LOCATIONS

From raising the flag on your own private island to watching the stars

over the sea from your hot tub, Boutique Retreats specialise in unique,

stylish properties that celebrate their surroundings whilst embracing

luxurious living. We know how good getaways should be.

boutique-retreats.co.uk

+44 (0)1872 553 491

[email protected]

latest

TRAVEL NEWS

As the nights draw in, be sure you have a late summer or autumnal

escape to look forward to. Here we provide some inspiration

Text by Jane Knight

HOTEL NEWS

SELF-CATERING

AND GLAMPING

EXCLUSIVE USE

ATTRACTIONS

AND EVENTS

from page 10 from page 16

from page 20 from page 22

Pictured from top Olea, p18; Roman Villa, p10; The Balcony Studio, p17; Hillside Hangouts, p21; Kinetic Glasshouse at Woolbeding Gardens, p23

Hotel News

SOMERSET

Roman Villa at The Newt

It already has magnificent gardens, a deer park,

and a wealth of on-site activities, from bee

safaris to cider tasting. Now The Newt, one of

Britain’s hottest hotels, has opened a palatial

Roman villa on its estate, reimagined next door

to the original villa ruins found there. Visit the

superb interactive museum before wandering

through Villa Ventorum, with working Roman

baths and formal dining room with frescoes of

The Three Graces and intricate mosaics on the

floor. You can sample authentic Roman food

outside but we recommend eating in one of the

excellent hotel restaurants instead. Rooms with

breakfast and activities from £495. ◆

thenewtinsomerset.com

NEW FOREST

Lime Wood

It’s the ultimate treat for foodies – the chance to enjoy a private

meal cooked by Lime Wood’s Angela Hartnett and Luke Holder.

Using produce from artisan suppliers that aren’t big enough to cater

for usual hotel quantities, the duo will chat to guests seated at a

kitchen table as they cook. It costs £3,000 for ten people. ◆

limewoodhotel.co.uk

LEICESTER

Hotel Brooklyn

The clue’s in the name: this Leicester-based hotel adjacent to

the Tigers’ rugby stadium could be straight out of New York's

Brooklyn borough, just like its sister property in Manchester.

The 191 rooms are done out in a dark palette, while the in-room

service menu includes pillow fights. From £90, B&B. ◆

hotelbrooklyn.co.uk


LONDON

Como Metropolitan Residences

Experience what it’s like to stay in the heart of Mayfair in these

upgraded contemporary chic apartments, with living and dining areas

and separate kitchens as well as private patios. Two- and three-bedroom

apartments with access to the hotel’s facilities cost from £1,995.

comohotels.com

CORNWALL

Headland Hotel

The wind and waves create a mesmerising

drama off the North Cornwall coast in autumn

and winter, with 30-foot swells and 60mph

winds. Watch it from two new Ocean View

Suites that have just been unveiled at this

seaside hotel, and which are part of an ongoing

renovation programme. Blending antique

furniture with new fabrics, the two-bedroom

suites are a bold mix of colour, pattern and

texture. Sleeping four, they are reasonably

priced, from £395 a night. If the weather is

kind, hit the beach, but if a storm is raging,

the spa is the place to go, along with the

six Aqua Club pools. ◆

headlandhotel.co.uk

Editor loves

LONDON

Room2Chiswick

Whether or not it’s the world’s first hotel to

fully account for its entire carbon footprint, this

'homtel' (a hotel with the comforts of home) does

show that you can have sustainability with style. A

heat pump, solar panels and greenery on the roof

rub shoulders with colourful Arts-&-Crafts-inspired

bedrooms, all with kitchenettes. From £129. ◆

room2.com


Hotel News

SURREY TO OXFORDSHIRE

The Relais Henley

Move out of the fast lane on a two-night

‘Slow-cation’ package, combining a night on a

boat and another at The Relais Henley. Board

a luxury hybrid river cruiser at Runneymede,

Surrey, where the skipper will do all the hard

work while you sip Champagne. Enjoy a picnic at

Windsor, followed by an optional on-deck dinner

beneath the stars before mooring at Marlow.

The next day, before disembarking at Henleyon-Thames,

take a private rowing lesson with

a member of the world-famous Leander Club.

Then check into a riverside room at The Relais

Henley, with dinner in The Clipper Restaurant.

Two nights from £3,995 per couple. ◆

therelaisretreats.com/henley

Le Manoir aux Quat’ Saisons

Take the kids for an autumnal escape at Raymond Blanc’s

luxurious hotel, where they can follow a trail of vegetable

characters as they explore before dinner. Two meals for children

under 12 are included in the price, as well as seven-course seasonal

dinners for parents. From £1,805 for four in the same room. ◆

belmond.com


OXFORDSHIRE

CORNWALL

Old Ferry Inn

It might sound ancient but this pub with 11 rooms has just had a

swish makeover, transforming it into an even more comfortable

base from which to explore the area. On your return, try the

vodka, gin and rum distilled on-site – you can buy bottles at the

new artisanal shop. From £125, with breakfast. ◆

theoldferryinn.co.uk

GOODWOOD

one

of

the

best

hotels

in

the

country

DUNCAN CRAIG, TRAVEL EDITOR, THE TIMES AND SUNDAY TIMES

GOODWOOD.COM

MARGATE

Fort Road Hotel

Watch the sunsets Turner called "the loveliest in all Europe" from

the roof terrace of this hip new seafront hotel, featuring artwork

by Tracey Emin, among others. The restaurant in the 14-room

property includes dishes inspired by historic female food writers.

Rooms from £145. fortroadhotel.com

LONDON

Raffles at the OWO

Follow in the footsteps of statespeople and

spies, from Winston Churchill to Ian Fleming,

at the historic Old War Office (OWO), which

is due to open this winter as a Raffles hotel

in the landmark Grade-II*-listed former

Whitehall building. The building’s classic

Edwardian architecture has been reshaped

to create 120 rooms and 85 residences,

while restoring historic elements such as

hand-laid mosaic floors, oak panelling, and

a magnificent marble staircase. Eat on the

rooftop terrace or in Mauro Colagreco’s

restaurant. London’s first Guerlain spa will

span four floors, and you can swim in the

striking 20-metre pool. Prices yet to be set. ◆

theowo.london

One

to

watch

CUMBRIA

Sunday sleepovers at

Armathwaite Hall

Slip slowly into autumn on a Pride of Britain sleep

sojourn at this Lake District hotel. The Sunday night

Pillow Package includes a guided mindfulness

experience, relaxing massage and seasonal dinner.

A herbal infusion should lull you into the land of nod

before breakfast and a Pilates class or refreshing swim

the next day. From £340pp. ◆

armathwaite-hall.com


Self-Catering and Glamping

LINCOLNSHIRE

The Nest

Still not convinced by glamping? Take a look at

the egg-shaped baths in the three safari-style

tents here and imagine yourself sipping a glass

of bubbles as you gaze down at the lake. Each

lodge sleeps up to six people, and while you’re

technically under canvas, they come with all the

creature comforts, including White Company

linen on the beds, plenty of hot running water

and a fully equipped kitchen. You can book inlodge

spa treatments, too. Go fishing, boating

or birdwatching, then cook an evening BBQ,

toast marshmallows or soak in the wood-fired

hot tub. From £750 for four nights. ◆

thenestglamping.co.uk

DEVON

The Boathouse, Sandridge Barton

Enjoy a boozy break when you visit Sharpham Wine’s new home at

Sandridge Barton and stay in this two-bedroom boathouse on the

banks of the River Dart. Follow walking trails through the estate and

discover your favourite wine during a tasting before retreating to the

waterside home with a bottle or two. From £825 for three nights. ◆

sandridgebarton.com

THE LAKE DISTRICT

Another Place

Taking treehouses to a new level, Another Place’s architectdesigned

suite comes with two double bedrooms with spectacular

views across Ullswater and the fells. As well as a bathroom, there’s

an outdoor bath on the outdoor deck so you can truly soak in the

scenery. Also new are six shepherd huts with stargazing roofs.

Treehouse from £625, shepherd huts from £425. ◆

another.place


ISLE OF WIGHT

Tapnell Farm Group

If you want to visit this island farm and enjoy the activities on

offer but don’t want to stay in the heart of the action, check out

the Piglets, four upcycled animal arcs at sister farm East Afton.

From £200 for two nights.

tapnellfarm.com

HEREFORDSHIRE

Nuthatch, the sleeper bus

Stayed in a shepherd's hut and want to

move on from tents? Take a look at this bus,

a 1960s Bedford Panoramic that has been

cleverly converted into a miniature home.

A cosy double bed is at the back, with a

wood-burning stove nearby. Kids can sleep

on the sofa bed in the kitchen/dining area,

with a wooden floor, oak worktops, a cooker

and a fridge. Electricity comes courtesy of

solar panels on the roof, and there’s a

Swedish wood-fired hot tub to wallow

in under the stars as well as a separate

bathroom. From £120 a night to

Hideaway members (£17 a year). ◆

kiphideaways.com

CORNWALL

The Balcony Studio

The balcony in question juts over the sea defence

walls at St Ives harbour, making this one-bedroom

cottage the perfect romantic bolthole for either summer

sea views or storm watching. The beamed master

bedroom features glass panels that look down into

the large spa bathroom, with its giant bathtub and

couples’ shower. From £175 a night. ◆

thebalconystudio.co.uk


SCOTLAND

Ceol Mor Highland Lodges

These two new insulated wooden lodges are perfectly placed for

anyone wanting to go Highlands hiking and biking or to take distillery

tours. Cookery experiences for the kids are on offer, too.

Three nights for a family of four from £375.

ceolmor.co.uk

WEST SUSSEX

Olea, Amberley

Talk about your quintessential chocolate-box

thatched cottage. Less than two hours' drive

from London, Olea comes with roses climbing

up its golden stone walls, and pretty lead-lined

windows. With its wooden floor, vaulted ceiling

and exposed stone walls, the sitting room is the

perfect place to curl up after a day exploring

nearby Arundel, the South Downs National Park

and Wittering beaches. There’s a rustic kitchen,

complete with stone floors and a 17th-century

monk’s bench and a pretty courtyard garden.

The master bedroom is on the ground floor,

with an extra room on the mezzanine level.

Three-night weekends cost from £734. ◆

boutique-retreats.co.uk

WALES

Bert’s Kitchen Garden

A thriving eco-campsite on North Wales’s littlevisited

Llyn Peninsula, Bert’s now has a brace of

huts for those who prefer to camp in comfort. Clad

in reclaimed wood, each has a king-sized bed and

marble-tiled shower room; they are just a short

stroll from the kitchen garden restaurant.

A night for two costs from £175. ◆

bertskg.com


Inspiring

Destinations. -

Bovey Castle, Dartmoor

Discover the carefully curated collection of privately owned hotels and

experience the best places to eat, stay and unwind within the British Isles.

Pride of Britain Hotels

Call FREEPHONE: 0800 089 3929

Book online: www.prideofbritainhotels.com

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Exclusive Use

SUSSEX

South Downs House

This recently renovated 20th-century house

comes with stunning South Downs views and

sits on four acres of woodland and grounds.

The seven beautifully furnished bedrooms with

Crittall windows share six bathrooms. There’s

space for everyone to sit down together as

well as a modern kitchen for home-cooked

extravaganzas, although caterers can also be

arranged. A heated outdoor pool is available,

as well as croquet, badminton and giant Jenga.

Take a tour of the nearby Ridgeview Vineyard

(two bottles of its sparkling wine are included

in the welcome hamper). A week for 14 costs

from £7,000, or £4,000 for a weekend. ◆

southdownshouse.co.uk

NORTHUMBERLAND

Brockmill Farmhouse

Just a 35-minute walk from the Holy Island of Lindisfarne, this

characterful family home comes with its own cinema room, games

room with snooker table, and large garden featuring a giant

chess set. There is room for 14 adults and two children in the seven

upstairs bedrooms, with a week’s rental costing from £2,506. ◆

crabtreeandcrabtree.com

PEMBROKESHIRE

Coppet Hall Lodge

The Pembrokeshire Coast Path passes just outside this light, airy

cottage, with the golden sands of the beach in front and woodland

behind. There’s space for six guests but bigger groups can also book

nearby White Cottage, sleeping another four people. Coppet Hall

Lodge from £1,225 a week, White Cottage from £828. ◆

ruralretreats.co.uk


WALES

Penrhiw Priory, St Davids

Now available for exclusive hire only, this 19th-century priory features

modern interiors decorated with contemporary artworks. As well as

six bedrooms in the main building, there are another two in the original

coach house. From £1,230 a night for 16.

penrhiwhotel.com

CORNWALL

ARC Padstow

With its seafood restaurants and cafes,

delicious local wine and the Camel Trail Cycle

Way, Padstow is a delightful place to visit any

time of the year. Now it’s even better, with

this high-end rental for 24 guests in a former

18th-century manor house, set in the adjacent

hamlet of St Issey. Expect Cornish slate,

original beams and historic fireplaces in a

cool mix of cottage and contemporary styles.

There is plenty of space for everyone, with

five reception areas and 12 bedrooms. In the

grounds there’s a wood-fired hot tub, garden

rooms and even an outdoor kitchen.

A week costs from £4,500. ◆

finestretreats.co.uk

THE COTSWOLDS

Elsker, Hillside Hangouts

New to the Farncombe estate, with its Dormy

House and Fish hotels, this eight-bedroom house

has its own library, games room, and outdoor

swimming pool. Book a private chef, cook for

yourselves or eat in one of the hotel restaurants.

Outdoor activities include archery and axe

throwing. A week for 16 costs from £9,510. ◆

hillsidehangouts.co.uk


Attractions and Events

ESSEX AND HAMPSHIRE

New stretches of England

Coast Path

Walkers can now make their way along an 85-mile route

in Essex and a 52-mile route in Hampshire after two new

paths were opened by Natural England. In Essex, the

new stretch runs from Tilbury to Wallasea Island, via

Southend-on-Sea, and takes in varied landscapes of salt

marsh and vast grasslands. The Hampshire stretch – the

first in the county – takes walkers along the Solent coast,

with its unspoiled countryside, busy marinas, industrial

heritage, historic castles and wildlife conservation sites,

connecting the popular beach at Calshot Spit to the

nautical town of Gosport, and then on to the busy city

of Portsmouth. Once complete, the 2,700-mile-long

England Coast Path, will be the longest, continuous

coastal walking route in the world. ◆

nationaltrail.co.uk

BATH

Cleveland Pools

As well as taking the waters in Bath, you should also be able to swim

in one of Britain’s oldest lidos from the end of this summer. Built in

1815, the site first opened as a river-fed pool, and experienced a

colourful history from Victorian times to its 1970s heyday. ◆

clevelandpools.org.uk

SURREY

The Rover Social

Calling all Land Rover families and fans – Loseley Park is hosting

a one-day event on 25 September. Try your hand at clay-pigeon

shooting, visit the classic car paddock and experience some

guided off-roading on the estate in your own vehicle. Food and

drink is available and a DJ will provide the day’s soundtrack. ◆

theroversocial.com


NATIONWIDE

Road trips with PetsPyjamas

Take the legwork out of organising a multi-stop break with Fido

by picking one of the nine road trips curated by PetsPyjamas.

All feature hotels that provide a warm welcome for four-legged

friends plus places to stop and see en route.

petspyjamas.com

WEST SUSSEX

Kinetic Glasshouse at

Woolbeding Gardens

Explore the remarkable kinetic glasshouse and Silk

Route garden at the National Trust’s Woolbeding

Estate in West Sussex. The glasshouse, inspired by

Victorian ornamental terrariums, opens its ‘sepals’

on warm days to create a large space in the shape

of a crown. Designed by Heatherwick Studio,

it takes four minutes to open using a hydraulic

mechanism. In colder weather, the structure

remains closed in the shape of a ten-sided pyramid.

It is the focal point of a new garden that shows how

much the ancient Silk Route has influenced English

gardens of today, with silk exchanged for plants

such as rosemary, lavender and fennel. ◆

nationaltrust.org.uk

LONDON

Leighton House

Following an £8 million transformation, the

house and studio of Victorian artist Lord Frederick

Leighton, is due to open on 15 October. For the

first time, guests will be able to see Leighton’s

Winter Studio and to view a contemporary 11-metre

mural enveloping the curved walls of a new helical

staircase, as well as the house’s opulent interiors. ◆

rbkc.gov.uk/museums/


under the

SPOTLIGHT

One of the hottest hotel openings of the year, The Fox at Oddington

may be small but Jessica Way discovers its extensive renovation retains its

stylishly cute Cotswolds charm – just with a few more foxy notches

Text by Jessica Way

Carole Bamford’s latest project, The Fox at

Oddington, was destined to amass attention

during its 16-month revamp – and just three

weeks after opening, not only had all the most

influential travel journalists been there already for the full

tour of the Grade-II-listed property, but the locals are now

turning out in their droves, visiting night after night – and

the atmosphere is electric.

I’m dining in the Saddle Room restaurant feeling

decadent with a glass of Rouge de Léoube, about to take

another mouthful of succulent Chateaubriand steak sourced

from a local Wiltshire farm, Stokes Marsh, when I see a

familiar face: Ewan Grant, General Manager from nearby

sister hotel The Wild Rabbit in Kingham. He's lending a

hand to the new team and we joke about the food being

more than just delicious, agreeing its ‘foxylicious,’ as per

the signage sketched into the beams framing the open-plan

kitchen.

The owners of Daylesford Organic Farm must have

known this six-bedroom 16th-century traditional inn would

be oh-so-welcomed into their Cotswolds family – and we all

know foxes thrive in the presence of rabbits, but I'm keen to

ask Ewan about how the two pubs rub along together.

He explained that The Fox has a more laid-back countrypub

vibe, welcoming locals and visitors to drop in anytime,

while The Wild Rabbit is fine dining with an à la carte menu.

And, with a complimentary chauffeur service offered to

hotel guests to take them between venues, I am tempted to


‘

We even have private access to the pretty walled garden... we sit there,

sipping a 'Punchy Fox' or two and playing cards until sundown

’

book at least one more night here – it’s the weekend, after

all. Then I remember I can’t, they are fully booked.

We stayed in The Den – a sumptuous dog-friendly suite, where

our Spanador knew she had hit the jackpot, making herself at

home in the sitting room with floor-to-ceiling windows.

It’s not so bad for us either: a four-poster bed, a roll-top

bathtub, Bamford toiletries, a minibar, and a private terrace.

We even have private access to the pretty walled garden,

complete with converted horsebox serving cocktails. Following

dinner we sit there, sipping a 'Punchy Fox' or two and playing

cards until sundown.

And while the Daylesford team didn’t need to be

cunning, they have certainly been crafty – bringing in a team

of incredibly skilled locals to apply centuries-old techniques

using sustainable materials (from reclaimed timber to

sheep’s wool from their own organic farm as the insulation).

The gardeners have been creative too – beautiful wildflowers

cover the restaurant roof, hedges have been shaped into

foxes and a large tree trunk has been sawn into a rustic bike

rack. Aesthetics touch on nature, with Hugo Guinness prints

hanging on the walls, and on the floor of our suite there is

beautifully decorated leaf-inspired painted artwork. Further

artistic flair pays tribute to the area's equestrian heritage,

with reclaimed stone water troughs as sinks, stable doors

restored as partitions, and grand portraits of thoroughbreds

and lines of vintage rosettes hanging in The Tackroom (the

more cosy bar area with inglenook fireplace, low beams and

antique furniture).

Daylesford Organic Farm, an ultra-trendy wellness hang-out

and foodie destination, is just one mile down the road; it's where

guests have access (and a 10% discount) to the cookery school,

garden tours and floristry workshops, as well as Bamford

Wellness Spa’s treatments and classes. Scan the QR code on

the back of the bedroom door – or simply follow the woodland

footpath past St Nicholas’s church and over the railway bridge.

It's a match made in heaven as well as Cotswold stone.

Jessica Way was a guest of the Fox at Oddington, which

has B&B doubles from £225, thefoxatoddington.com



meet the maker

KINDRED

SPIRITS

From heritage distilleries to family makers and new crafters,

Britain is brimming with master blenders and unique spirits that

are raising the bar. With creativity, legacy and sustainability at

their core, these distilleries are well worth hitting the road for...

Text by Chantal Haines

Silent Pool

Situated on the Albury Estate in the

heart of the Surrey Hills, the distillery

sits adjacent to its namesake, The Silent

Pool, a tranquil body of water that dates

back to The Ice Age. Distilled from 24

different botanicals, which are collected

where possible from the local area, Silent

Pool Gin uses Bosnian juniper berries,

liquorice root, cassia bark, orris, and

bergamot, alongside honey sourced from

a neighbouring beekeeper in its secret

recipe. The distillers work closely with

local farms and fruit producers in the

area and uses their leftover fruit to make

limited edition small batch gins including

blackberry and damson gin, apricot

aperitivo, and greengage gin.


The Silent Pool distillery tour takes visitors around

the renovated barns that now house the bespoke

copper stills, down to the banks of the Silent Pool, and

culminates in a tasting of the award-winning Silent

Pool gins, and a number of the small batch range of

gins, cordials and aperitivos.

In 2021 Silent Pool launched Green Man Woodland

gin – the first spirit in the world to be sold in a paper

bottle. Ethical in ethos and production, Silent Pool

reuses, recycles and reduces waste wherever it

can. The company ditched polylaminate capsules

in 2018, replacing them with bottles and stoppers

made of glass, capped with tin. To keep fuel miles to

a minimum, Silent Pool’s original still is fired by wellseasoned

local hardwood supplied from the Albury

Estate, and Silent Pool’s Rye Grain Vodka is filtered

using locally made charcoal.

silentpooldistillers.com

The Henley Distillery

A recent addition to the UK distillery family, The Henley

Distillery was founded in 2021 by 28-year-old Master

Distiller Jacob Wilson. Headquartered from a restored

threshing barn just outside Henley-on-Thames, its smallbatch,

single-shot sipping gins have already bagged a

number of industry accolades. One of only a handful

of distilleries in the UK owned and run by a Master

Distiller, The Henley Distillery is one to watch.

The range includes the multiple award-winning Henley

Gin Classic Dry – giving a contemporary twist on a

London Dry; and The Henley Gin Oriental Spiced – a

complex blend of rich spices inspired by the Silk Road.

Visitors can try their hand at making their own gin at

The Henley Distillery’s new, fully immersive gin school.

Guests see the distillery in action, learn about the

history of gin and, of course, taste several of the gins

made at the distillery. As the finale, guests have the

opportunity to create a bottle of their very own bespoke

gin under Jacob's guidance using their own mini copper

still and choosing from a library of over 100 botanicals.

thehenleydistillery.co.uk

Fynoderee Distillery

Located on the Isle of Man, The Fynoderee Distillery,

is dedicated to the production of premium spirits with

genuine Manx roots and heritage. The blends feature

Manx-grown and hand-foraged botanicals and are

distilled, bottled and served at the distillery in Ramsey.

The name Fynoderee hails from an ancient Manx

folklore tale, based in Glen Auldyn in the north of the

island – the very place where the last Manx juniper tree

was reputed to have grown and where juniper is now

being reintroduced. The distillery has plans to launch

public tours soon, so watch this space.

fynoderee.com


Good to know: In 2022, Silver

Circle Distillery branded one of

its vodkas Vodka For Ukraine and

donates all profits from the sale of

these bottles to the DEC Ukraine

Humanitarian Appeal

Silver Circle Distillery

Founded by Nina and Joe Howden in June 2019, the

most easterly distillery in Wales has a craft spirit

range, which includes the award-winning Silver Circle

Aquavit, Wye Valley Gin, and Black Garlic Vodka, and

its Botanical Vodka No.1 in the Monmouthshire village

of Catbrook. The distillery has recently opened a

new tasting room and shop in the heart of Chepstow,

providing the perfect place to savour the fine range of

Silver Circle’s spirits.

The shop offers Make Your Own Gin Experiences

for up to eight people once a week (Saturdays), as

well as tutored tasting sessions for up to 12 people.

Alternatively, guests can enjoy the shop’s gin taster

board (featuring Wye Valley Gin, Gunga Gin, and

Silver Circle’s Catbrook Honey Gin), a cocktail taster

board (featuring three of Silver Circle’s small batch,

ready-to-drink cocktails) and the Aquavit Taster Board

(featuring a taster of Silver Circle Aquavit along with

two miniature aquavit cocktails).

The ethically minded brand sells 50cl refill cans for its

Wye Valley Gin, while walk-in customers at the Silver

Circle Tasting Room in Chepstow can bring back their

empty Wye Valley Gin bottle for a refill. Hospitality

customers can buy the gin at trade prices in reusable

5L ‘jerrycans’ to refill their original bottle for use on

the bar – saving on seven glass bottles entering the

recycling stream.

silvercircledistillery.com


Nc’nean

The female-founded Nc’nean Distillery sits on the wild

and captivating Morvern peninsular, on the beautiful

west coast of Scotland. After leaving her job in London

in 2013, Annabel Thomas spent four years raising funds

and building the distillery from the ground up. Located a

stone's throw away from the tranquil Sound of Mull and

surrounded by lush green hills, Nc'Nean was created to

change the way the world thinks about whisky from

Scotland. Annabel's predominantly female-led team

aim to create light and delicious spirits that can exist

in harmony with the planet (NcNean is the UK’s first

whisky distillery verified as having net zero carbon

emissions from its own operations.) Nc’nean's core

expression, a smooth and elegant Organic Single Malt

Scotch Whisky has flavours of citrus, peach, apricot

and spice, while its Botanical Spirit is flavoured with

ten locally grown botanicals and provides a refreshing

alternative for gin lovers. Nc’nean is known for quietly

rebelling against the ‘rules’ of traditional Scotch. The

distillery uses longer mashing times and experiments

with different yeasts not commonly associated with

whisky making. The team also age their spirits in

interesting casks, including Tokaji and Tequila, to

bring creative flavours to their special releases. Visitors

can tour Nc’nean Monday to Friday while sampling

Nc’nean’s fine spirits, alongside different cask samples

that make up their signature recipe.

ncnean.com


Colwith Farm Distillery

Cornwall’s only single estate distillery is founded on

five generations of farming and produces awardwinning

vodka and gin. Unlike distilleries that buy in

mass-produced ethanol, Colwith makes everything

from scratch, using potatoes grown on their family

farm to create their Aval Dor (Cornish for potato)

spirits sustainably. Colwith Farm Distillery’s Aval Dor

Original Vodka is the first British vodka ever to win a

Platinum Medal at The San Francisco World Spirits

Competition (SFWSC). Its range of gins use a variety

of botanicals, including fresh lemon balm, rosemary

and bay leaves picked from the family’s grandmother's

garden. This summer, Colwith has launched the UK’s

first plough-to-bottle vodka school, where guests can

make their own bespoke vodka from Cornish potatoes.

Guests are invited to craft, blend and fill their own 70cl

flavoured Cornish vodka to take home using a blend of

botanicals bespoke to their taste. Alongside its vodka

school, Colwith also offers gin experiences, tutored

tastings and distillery tours.

colwithfarmdistillery.co.uk

Hattiers Rum

Hattiers sources aged rums from around the world,

blending them in Devon as part of a family business.

The UK's first B Corp certified rum – an award for

high social and environmental performance – Hattiers

has been plastic-free from day one and has a carbon

negative workforce. The brand produces Eminence

Blended Aged White Rum, Egremont Premium

Reserve Rum and its Resolute Navy Strength Rum, and

in 2022 founder Philip Everett-Lyons began offering

guided distillery tours of the South Devon-based

facility. Guests can explore Hattiers blending room,

learn about the impact of oak and cask aging and

discover how they blend their three premium rums.

Eminence is a light–medium bodied, dry blended aged

white rum. Egremont is a blend of four cask-aged rums

hand-picked from across the Caribbean and Central

America and gently paired with pure soft spring water

from the hills of Dartmoor. And finally, Resolute is a

blended aged Navy Strength rum, made using rums

from Barbados, Australia, Guyana and Jamaica.

hattiers.com

Heart of Suffolk Distillery

Launched by husband-and-wife team Martyn and

Karen Luke in 2018, the Heart of Suffolk Distillery is

based in Finbows Yard, Bacton.

The family business distils small batches of a London

Dry style gin with nine carefully chosen hand crushed

botanicals to create a modern and refreshing taste.

Their signature tipple is named to honour Betty,

Karen’s mother, who shared the same love and

enjoyment of a good quality gin. Each batch of

around 70 bottles is hand signed and numbered by

master distiller Martyn.

The Heart of Suffolk Distillery is open to the public

and offers a relaxed experience for those wanting

to enjoy a sample and purchase a bottle of the

handcrafted gin.

heartofsuffolkdistillery.co.uk


Henstone Distillery by train

Something a little different for gin, whisky, vodka and

bourbon lovers – this year visitors will be able to enjoy a

train ride and a tipple, thanks to the opening of a new

rail link on the volunteer-operated Cambrian Heritage

Railways, which will connect Oswestry town centre to

Henstone distillery on the outskirts of the charming North

Shropshire town. The 15-minute journey takes visitors to

one of Shropshire’s most lauded small-batch producers

where Henstone’s range of award-winning gins, whisky,

charcoal-filtered vodka and Old Dog Corn Liquor is made.

henstonedistillery.com

Isle of Barra

Husband-and-wife team Michael and Katie Morrison

sought to open the first legal distillery on the Isle

of Barra and founded the Isle of Barra Distillers in

2017. Its Atlantic Gin is infused with a key botanical

– carrageen seaweed, which the brand is now famed

for. In 2022, the distillery launched its first Island Dark

Rum – strong, bold and rustic, much like the rocky east

coastline, with a finish as smooth as the fine golden

sands found on the west side of the island.

For its Island Dark Rum, the Isle of Barra Distillers

again use botanical, carrageen seaweed, handharvested

from the shores of Barra. The carrageen is

infused alongside coconut, cardamon, cloves, lemon

and orange peel.

The most westerly distillery in Scotland, the Isle of

Barra Distillers creates vital employment opportunities

for the local community on the island and aims to help

the remote island’s fragile infrastructure flourish.

isleofbarradistillers.com


lack

AUTUMN

MAGIC

Following a renaissance of foraging and wild foods, our native

truffles are on the path from a little-known curiosity to an exciting

ingredient, sought after by top chefs around the country. From

truffle-hunting experiences in the woods of Sussex and Wiltshire

to mouth-watering dishes served in snug country pubs, the

English truffle season has a truly intoxicating aroma

Text by Karolina Wiercigroch

Grab the dogs!” Melissa shouts and starts sprinting. She

navigates between rows of thin beeches, their rusty leaves

shimmering in the low October sun, and is the first one to

reach the spot where two very excited Cocker Spaniels are

sniffing the ground. They’re ready to dig but, this time, Melissa is faster.

She gently shifts the dogs away and starts breaking the damp ground.

Soon, she’s presenting a handful of round, plum-sized balls, coal-black and

warty. Their scent is lightly floral, sweet and nutty, with earthy undertones

of raw beetroot. Truffles. Not in the hills of Piedmont, not in the Périgord

region of southwest France. Melissa Waddingham has been hunting for

these delicacies in the grounds of Sussex for the last 15 years.

The world’s most celebrated fungi, white truffles — tuber magnatum

— often associated with the Italian town of Alba, are found in the

limestone-rich soils all the way between Italy and the Black Sea, with

some exceptional ones hunted in the forests of Croatian Istria, Southern

Hungary and Serbia. Black winter truffles – tuber melanosporum –

sometimes called after the French region of Périgord, are native to

eastern Spain, southern France and northern and central Italy. Today,

most of black winters are farmed in truffle orchards worldwide, and


“

There’s nothing like driving

back from a hunt with a kilo

of truffles in my bag

”

the Australian inverted seasons satiate

European markets in the summer. And

while the two species – magnatum and

melanosporum – are unanimously prized

in the culinary world, they are just the tip

of the truffle iceberg. “People think only

Italy and France grow truffles, but we

have around 38 species here in the UK,”

says Melissa. The ones important from a

gourmet perspective, black summer and

black autumn, are in fact biologically the

same species (tuber aestivum), though

are often described as two distinct kinds.

Summer truffles, usually found between

April and September, have a paler inside

and a vanishingly light aroma. Black

autumns, also called Burgundy, mature

in hilly forests between September

and December. Firm to touch, with

a marbled, milk-chocolate-coloured

interior, they hold a much stronger

aroma of flowers, boiled sweetcorn and

toasted hazelnuts. As with wine, the

terroir plays a significant role in their

flavour; the same truffle will develop a

different smell in various soils, regions

and weather conditions.

“There’s nothing like driving back

from a hunt with a kilo of truffles in my

bag," Melissa smiles. "Their aroma is

an instant mood enhancer.” She always

whiffs the soil after taking out the


PREVIOUS PAGE LEFT TO RIGHT: MELISSA WADDINGHAM

FOUNDER OF TRUFFLE AND MUSHROOM HUNTER; TRUFFLE

DOG TRAINING WITH THE ENGLISH TRUFFLE COMPANY;

TRUFFLE HUNTING WITH WILTSHIRE TRUFFLES

THIS PAGE: GRATED TRUFFLES AT ETCH. RESTAURANT IN

HOVE; TRUFFLE DOG TRAINING WITH THE ENGLISH TRUFFLE

COMPANY; HARRIET MANSEL, HEAD CHEF AT ROBIN WYLDE

NEXT PAGE: ZAK FROST, FOUNDER OF WILTSHIRE TRUFFLES

truffles, taking in the smell that resembles a freshly

opened tin of sweetcorn. Straight out of the ground,

the truffles hold a rather mild scent, which develops

over time. To Melissa, pleasant hints of white

spirit and a very light diesel start appearing after

a couple of days. An experienced forager with a

forestry degree, Melissa provides hands-on truffle

experiences in the Sussex forests. Sometimes, she

feeds participants luscious truffle creations, like

baked apples with truffle-infused cream and honey,

or a hot celeriac soup with freshly gathered truffles

grated on top. At home, she whips up truffle frozen

yoghurts, shaves truffles over warm bread-andbutter

puddings or cures egg yolks in homemade

truffle salt “I’m half-French, I love cooking.”

Melissa hunts with two Working Cocker Spaniels,

Ela and Aesti. Pigs — the original truffle-hunting

companions — were swapped for dogs by the

1700s, as their love for truffles can be as passionate

as the one of human gourmands. Stopping pigs

from eating truffles is hard, stories of nine-fingered

hunters teach us, and most dogs are happy to work

for treats. “My girls actually really enjoy truffles!”

Melissa laughs. “And I let them have an occasional

one.” After all, this is how truffles replicate; unlike

mushrooms, which use wind to spread their spores,

truffles depend on animals to dig them, eat them

and disperse their spores by defecating beneath a

different tree. This is where the intoxicating smell

comes in handy — a truffle is found when its aroma

can be detected by squirrels, foxes, deers or boars.

Human sense of smell is not strong enough, which is

why we usually need help.

Truffles grow on roots of certain kinds of

trees, like oak or silver birch, forming a symbiotic

relationship with their hosts. Unable to make their

own food through photosynthesis, truffles share

resources with the tree. The truffles 'feed' the tree

with water and micronutrients harvested from the

soil in exchange for sugars, produced by the tree

from sunlight. Truffles like rich, alkaline soils, chalky

or lime-rich. “It’s the dog who finds truffles, but first,

the human has to find the right place to go look for

them. I spent many weeks studying maps and woods

to identify the right terrain," says James Feaver, who

still still remembers his first successful truffle hunt.

“I was grinning like a Cheshire cat for several days.”

The English Truffle Company sells wild truffles

hunted by James, mostly to individual buyers who

wish to wow their friends at a dinner party or enjoy a

luxurious egg scramble for Christmas breakfast. On

top of that, James runs truffle-hunting experiences

in Dorset, Wiltshire and Hampshire. “The location

is secret, I usually share it the night before — people

enjoy the thrill of secrecy.” James skilfully excavates

the first subterranean treats of the hunt and then

everyone gets a go. He encourages people to get

down and smell the ground ("You know you’ve had

a good day when you go home with mud all over

your face"). The woodland endeavours are followed


TRUFFLE HUNTING

by an afternoon tea and a sample of a simple truffle

dish, like truffle-infused scrambled eggs. James

shaves some of the truffles found on the day, only

hours out of the ground, making it the freshest

truffle dish most people have ever tasted. “I don’t

actually eat that many truffles,” he chuckles when I

ask about his favourite truffle recipes. “My partner

hates them. She needs the car windows down if we

drive somewhere after I’d been hunting, the truffle

smell gives her a headache.” James recommends

starting with classic, simple dishes, like eggs, buttery

risottos or creamy pastas — you can’t go wrong with

fat, which is known to be a potent flavour carrier.

The first account of English truffles comes from

1693 and the last truffle hunter of the previous

millennium, Alfred Collins, retired in the 1930s.

Following the recent renaissance of foraging and

wild foods, British chefs became increasingly

passionate about using local truffles. Harriet

Mansel, the head chef at Robin Wylde, a restaurant

serving seasonal, local produce in a former

pottery shop in Lyme Regis in Dorset, sources her

ingredients from the West Country or forages them

herself along the local coastline, hedgerows, moors

and fields. "It's on my radar to try and figure out

how and where to forage local truffles. Last time

we had them on the menu it was a classic autumnal

feel; celeriac velouté with chestnut mushrooms and

truffles. It’s important we use British truffles, we

would never import them.”


‘

Wiltshire Truffles supplies some of the best restaurants in the country,

including Heston Blumenthal’s The Fat Duck and Frog by Adam Handling

’

Steven Edwards, the winner of 2013 MasterChef:

The Professionals, gets to celebrate British produce

in his weekly tasting menus at etch. in Hove. He

pairs truffles with mushroom, venison, celeriac

and Tunworth cheese, as well as creating truffle

puddings, like chocolate fondant with truffle ice

cream. His black fragrant fungi always come from

Wiltshire: "We get our truffles from Wiltshire

Truffles, where we have highly regarded and

trustworthy suppliers in Zak Frost and his wife Nina.

We love promoting great British produce and are

very happy with the quality.” Zak, best known for the

black autumn truffles he hunts personally in a secret

location in Wiltshire, also imports aromatic beauties

directly from trusted hunters abroad. Wiltshire

Truffles supplies some of the best restaurants in

the country, including Heston Blumenthal’s The

Fat Duck and Frog by Adam Handling. To try Zak’s

truffles in a countryside setting in Wiltshire, head

to The Red Lion Freehouse in East Chisenbury, a

family-run restaurant in a whitewashed, thatchedroofed

building of an 18th-century village pub.

Zak’s truffles come to the menu in autumn, where he

starts hunting for them.

Today, Zak supplies home chefs with fresh

truffles from a new online shop, making it possible

to celebrate the English truffle season from the

comfort of your own home.

Truffle and Mushroom Hunter hosts truffle hunts

and mushroom forays in Sussex. Melissa is planning to

launch a UK Truffle Hound Championships and a truffle

festival in November: truffleandmushroomhunter.com

The English Truffle Company sells fresh truffles and

runs truffle-hunting experience days in Dorset, Wiltshire

and Hampshire throughout the season:

englishtruffles.co.uk

Wiltshire Truffles supplies almost all of the UK’s

leading restaurants, as well as offering a new online shop

for home users. They sell fresh truffles and their own

luxurious truffle juice, used in Michelin-starred kitchens

and now available for creative home chefs:

wiltshiretruffles.com/shop


Olive Tree House, Sussex

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SPECIAL FEATURE

MAMMA MIA! THE PARTY

London’s premier dining experience

Created by ABBA’s Björn Ulvaeus, MAMMA MIA! THE

PARTY is a unique and magical experience in a class

of its own, bringing all ABBA’s hits to life more vividly

than ever before: over the course of four glittering

hours, guests can immerse themselves in a spectacular musical

extravaganza, a four-course Greek feast and an ABBA disco, all in

one unforgettable evening of dancing, dining and singing!

MAMMA MIA! THE PARTY is set in a taverna on the beautiful

Greek island of Skopelos, where most exteriors of the first

MAMMA MIA! film were shot. Nikos and his wife Kate run this

exotic and wonderful restaurant together with their family and

friends. Told through dialogue and timeless ABBA songs, a warm,

romantic and funny story evolves and unfolds during the evening,

ending with a 1970s disco, where audience members are welcome

to stay to sing and dance to ABBA recordings.

Food is at the heart of the experience and a menu has been

created that collects the finest Greece has to offer, made from the

best, freshest ingredients. Guests are served a traditional mezze

followed by iconic Greek salad of fresh cherry tomatoes, cucumber

and feta. For the main course, confit lamb shoulder and slowcooked

beef are served with roasted garlic potatoes, courgettes,

peperonata, romesco and aromatic jus.

For vegetarian and vegan guests, there is roasted cauliflower

with a lemon-herb dressing and stuffed tomato with lentil ragout.

A sumptuous Greek lemon cake served with confit orange skin

and citrus yoghurt is the perfect end to this delicious meal. Vegan

guests are served traditional loukoumades, delicious dough balls

accompanied by a sweet fig jam. ◆

Bookings are open now until Sunday 26 February 2023.

Showing at The O2, Peninsula Square, London SE10 0DX, ticket

prices from £99 to include admission, a four-course set meal and

welcome drink. Platinum Package and VIP Upgrades also available;

mammamiatheparty.co.uk


meet the chef

STAR MAN

This year, Simon Rogan’s L’Enclume celebrated its 20th anniversary

and became one of only eight restaurants in the UK and 135

restaurants worldwide to receive three Michelin stars. Here, the

world-renowned pioneer of field-to-fork dining tells Chantal Haines

about the toil, the soil and the ambition it took to get there

Text by Chantal Haines

In February 2022, Simon Rogan’s flagship restaurant

L’Enclume was awarded its third Michelin star – an

incredible feat for any restaurant, but for this Lake

District enclave, which has blazed its own trail in

field-to-fork dining, sustainable growing and hyperlocal

produce, it is all the more extraordinary.

Set in the picturesque Lake District village of Cartmel,

L’Enclume is the first restaurant in the north of England

to lay claim to three stars, and the prestigious award has

come at a pivotal time for Rogan. “It’s L’Enclume’s 20th

anniversary this year. It’s every chef’s ambition to get

three stars so to succeed on the 20th anniversary is pretty

special. We're all over the moon about it,” he says.

“I would have hoped it could have been a bit quicker,”

Rogan quips. “But no, in all honesty, I don't really care

when we got it – we have achieved what I set out to do 20

years ago and that’s a fantastic feeling.”

As a young chef he undertook an apprenticeship

for around four and half years at Rhinefield House in

the New Forest getting a first-rate classical grounding

in cookery, and spent eight years on and off working

with Jean-Christophe Novelli – a chef he still notes as his

biggest inspiration. Rogan also undertook stints working

at The Maltster’s Arms in Devon (then owned by Keith

Floyd) and stage placements under other era-defining

chefs, including Marco Pierre White and John Burton-

Race, before going out on his own and opening his debut

restaurant, L’Enclume.

A Lake District love affair

L’Enclume, and Rogan’s multiple offshoot outposts, are

riding high now, but when he first set up in Cartmel two

decades ago, organic produce and kitchen gardens were

all but scoffed at, and fine dining was centered resolutely

in London or the south, at least.

“In the early years, it was a bit of a struggle. We didn't

really have many customers during the week, maybe

getting to the teens around the weekends. And it was even

more of a risk with the product we wanted to provide – I

had developed an interest very early on in my cookery

journey with foraging. While working at Rhinefield House

we would always go out foraging to pick mushrooms


and wild herbs and I had always wanted to revisit that.

“I was also heavily influenced by the work of a chef

called Marc Veyrat in the Alps who uses a lot of herbs,

flowers and roots in his cookery. I wanted to really look

at our surroundings and what the larder was around the

restaurant and really connect our cooking to the area and

create a destination restaurant.”

“I wanted to work for myself and be in control of my

own destiny. The honest reason I chose this particular

area and this particular restaurant was basically you

got more for your money. It would have cost me a lot of

money in either borrowings or taking on an investor to get

something as good in the south and we were always very

clear – we didn’t want to have to answer to anyone.”

Thankfully, word did spread and the restaurant, situated

in a former 13th-century blacksmith’s workshop in Cartmel,

began to attract customers from all around the UK.

“We started attracting people from London, the south

lot more. We got pretty good at it and radishes turned to

carrots and turnips, which turned to leeks and lettuces

and cabbages and kale, and before we knew it we were

growing everything. Then as the restaurants got busier

and busier, we needed to grow our farming operation to

cope with that level of trade.

In 2009, Rogan set up Our Farm, his 12-acre growing

site in the Cartmel Valley. It is here where Simon and

his team work throughout the year to grow vegetables,

herbs, fruits and flowers, and trial innovative farming and

growing methods.

“It was originally an open field site that had no growing

on it before, and we've created everything from scratch. It

was all very pretty in the beginning, with lovely ornamental

paths and nice, neat rows of perfectly manicured beans

and squash, but now there's none of that! Every centimetre

of ground is taken up for growing. I always envisioned that

we would have a growing operation of some sorts but I

“

Most importantly it's the right thing to do. If you've got the opportunity to

grow your own and limit your carbon footprint and look after your environment

and the people around you then it's a no brainer, right?

”

east, and the major cities around the UK. I had learnt from

Novelli that PR is part of the game and we began to get into

the papers and the nationals. And the rest is history, really."

Farm to fork

Rogan uses hyperlocal and seasonal ingredients in his

tasting menu at L’Enclume and is recognised as one of the

pioneers of the farm-to-fork movement.

“When we first opened, organic produce was

extortionate, so we couldn't afford to buy all organic

ingredients, but we bought a few items and I asked a local

farmer to grow some herbs and produce. To cut a long

story short, the farm went to rack and ruin and we offered

to take it over.

“The first thing we started growing was radishes –

because I was so frustrated I couldn’t get the perfect

radish when it's one of the simplest things you can grow.

In those days the standard of produce we would buy in

could be pretty poor, so that pushed us into growing a

didn't really forsee how extensive that would become. It’s

become a bit of a monster but we are very proud of it.”

The son of a market greengrocer, Rogan says that though

a fussy eater when a youngster, his exposure to ingredients

from an early age – when his father would come home every

evening with a box of the day's best freshest produce – first

sparked an interest in seasonal fare and foraging.

The ingredients used in his restaurants come from Our

Farm as well as trusted, long-standing suppliers, enabling

Rogan to deliver on his intense commitment to fresh, local

and seasonal produce and a truly traceable dining experience.

“Most importantly it's the right thing to do. If you've

got the opportunity to grow your own and limit your

carbon footprint and look after your environment and the

people around you then it's a no brainer, right?

“And the quality and the creativity that comes with that

is really special – we don't like to waste anything, we like

to use every part of an ingredient so that really drives your

ingenuity.”


Star ingredients

At Our Farm, Rogan and his team grow

a mind-boggling array of unusual and

exciting ingredients – all produced

organically, to their exacting specifications

– such as Japanese wineberries, elkhorn

fern and buck’s-horn plantain. And with

harvest to plate often taking place in less

than an hour, the quality and freshness sets

his dishes apart from the competition.

“Using every part of that plant – the

root, the stem, the leaf, the flower, the

fruit – gives us that connection to our

surroundings that's so important these

days. Customers really appreciate that

connection to the surroundings now.”

Together with a handful of other chefs,

Rogan has turned zero-waste dining into a

high-calibre offering.

“Dishes like our brined cabbage have

become synonymous with L'Enclume's style

and ethos,” Rogan says. “It’s cookery that

really that makes the vegetables sing and

lets them be at the forefront of the dish

rather than animal proteins. For our simple

cabbage dish we treat it like a piece of

meat and give the cabbage the same care

and attention as we would a prime cut. We

brine it in dill, then roast it over Chinese

charcoal and serve it with a fermented

mushroom sauce, truffle puree, and a

horseradish mousse over the top and lots

of grated truffle – so very tasty and lots of

layers of flavour. And you know, if you eat

something like that you'll wonder why you

would ever want to eat meat again.”

Michelin and more

As one would expect, L’Enclume’s meteoric

success has created opportunities for

expansion. In 2008, Rogan opened his

neighbourhood restaurant, Rogan & Co,

FIRST PAGE: SIMON

ROGAN COLLECTING

HIS ORGANIC

INGREDIENTS FROM

CARTMEL FARM

PREVIOUS PAGE:

ORGANIC PRODUCE

GROWING AT

CARTMEL FARM THIS

PAGE: L’ENCLUME

RESTAURANT IN

THE LAKE DISTRICT;

CARROT CRAB TART

WITH BUTTERMILK

ROSES; RAW MILK ICE

CREAM PEACH SWEET

CICELY; CARTMEL FARM

“

It was always my ambition that when I hang up my apron people might

turn around and say, ‘well, that guy really made a difference’.

”

which is situated in an 14th-century building beside the

River Eea in Cartmel and received a Michelin star in 2019.

Rogan also runs Aulis Cartmel, a development kitchen

and chef's table, and operates 16 bespoke bedrooms and

suites around the village. In 2019 Rogan branched out

further, opening Roganic Hong Kong, which received its

first Michelin star within ten months of opening.

In 2021, Simon's efforts towards sustainability were

recognised with the newly introduced Michelin Green Star,

awarded to both L'Enclume and Roganic Hong Kong.

Aulis London, his eight-seat chef’s table in Soho, offers

a dynamic, interactive dining experience with a 13-course

tasting experience cooked in front of the guests. “People

absolutely love it,” Rogan explains. "And it's probably

been the inspiration for a lot of other chef’s tables around

the UK, to be honest. If you're a foodie it's the greatest

table you can get because you're face to face with the guys

that know everything about the dish, its story, its execution

and the reason for its existence.”

Winning the coveted third Michelin star and passing

the 20th anniversary milestone has given the chef–owner

cause for reflection.

“When we set out, I was always clear on the accolades

I wanted to achieve but I also wanted to be someone that

sort of made a difference. During the '80s and the '90s

you had the Roux brothers, then Marco [Pierre White],

John Burton-Race and so on, and if I could achieve half of

what they did I’d be happy.

“It was always my ambition that when I hang up my

apron people might turn around and say, ‘well, that guy

really made a difference’. And I'm very humbled to see a

lot of guys that worked for me go out now and have their

own success – that's what I wanted to do – I wanted to

spawn a whole new generation of people that were going

to go off and do even greater things.

“That drives me as well, to get better and push

forward. Because when I see our guys have their own

success and I see things sprung from the L’Enclume

philosophy it motivates me to stay at the forefront. I kind

of think, ‘Ok, catch me again if you can’.”

And what of the next 20 years? “We carry on! I always

thought, come the third star I'd feel like I had had my

innings, but if anything, I feel invigorated. So, I guess

there’s still life in the old dog yet.”


WONDER

IN WALES

CELTIC ROUTES


Follow in the footsteps of the ancient Celts on an adventure of

a lifetime in West Wales. Celtic Routes is an epic journey through

the scenic counties of Carmarthenshire, Pembrokeshire and

Ceredigion. Feel enthralled by the wonders of our natural world – a

region rich with wildlife, mountains and waterfalls. Feel inspired

by the ancient castles and historic landmarks, and come alive

exploring miles of pristine golden sand and spectacular vistas...

CELTIC ROUTES

Text by Jessica Way


Celtic Routes is a newly launched touring

route designed to inspire intrepid travellers to

experience West Wales and Ireland's Ancient

East under their own steam, be that a day

exploring one of the towns, a long weekend discovering a

stretch of coastline, or a week-long action-packed holiday.

The Celtic Routes website (celticroutes.info) is

designed with a diverse range of immersive experiences

to make it easy for you to become the curator of your own

Celtic Routes experience.

Naturally, some of these places are more well-known,

but many of them take you off the beaten track on roads

less travelled – helping you delve closer to the Celtic Spirit,

exploring the outstanding land and seascapes, rugged

mountains and ancient standing stones. Here are just

some of the highlights of my own magical journey.

Carmarthenshire

Day One

Our first Celtic Moment was at Pendine Sands, where we

stopped to visit the Cambrian Ice Cream Parlour. Taking

a short stroll along the Wales Coast Path, we enjoyed our

coffee and ice-creams while admiring the long stretch of

beach from a dizzying height.

The vast stretch of sand is home to numerous land

speed records and so it came as no surprise to watch

thrill-seekers and racing land-yachts below – an activity

involving sitting in a three-wheeled go-cart powered by

wind through the use of a sail – travelling at speed just

inches above the sand.

The areas you can drive cars on the beach are limited

now, but Pendine Sands still holds a special place in the

heart of many racing-car enthusiasts (the world record


‘

Taking a short stroll along the Wales

Coast Path, we enjoyed our coffee and

ice-creams while admiring the long

stretch of beach from a dizzying height.

’

through the centre of Laugharne. Just behind the

hotel is SeaView, a pretty pale-yellow house where

Dylan and wife Caitlin once lived, now a B&B.

There’s a great community spirit to Laugharne,

quaint gift shops, lively pubs and a local chippy –

Castle Fish Bar, offering cockles harvested from

Carmarthen Bay. In the centre of Laugharne is the

Grist, marked by a Celtic Cross, where Methodist

leader John Wesley is said to have preached to the

townsfolk. (The name reflects the fact that a former

grist mill was located here.)

Crossing the bridge over the River Coran is

when the stunning panorama comes into focus –

glistening waters and a shimmering harbourside

lined with colourful old fishing boats and the

'brown as owls' castle, where Dylan would write

away high up in the ramparts, majestically perched

on the headland above.

There are birds wading on the water edge,

and blankets of green headland from the Gower

Peninsula in the distance – it's a wonderful moment

to pause and catch your breath.

At low tide we were able to follow the coastal

trail all the way to the best-loved attraction in

Laugharne: Dylan Thomas Boathouse, where

Dylan lived with Caitlin and their three children,

Aeronwy, Llewellyn and Colm.

was broken here) – with plenty of petrolhead memorabilia

adorning the walls in the cafes and bistros. Next year (May

2023) the beach will hold the tenth-year anniversary of the

award-winning Hot Rod Races event – the world’s fastest and

most exciting beach-racing competition.

You could easily spend a few days here, feeling the wind in

your hair on an invigorating horse ride along the beach perhaps,

or hiring a sea kayak or paddle board from Chad and Olly’s

Beach Hut.

In the afternoon we made our way to the delightfully

peaceful town of Laugharne, synonymous with poet Dylan

Thomas. Set in a picturesque location on the estuary where the

River Taf flows into Carmarthen Bay, the views might even be

familiar from your TV screen (the location was chosen for the

filming of Keeping Faith, a BBC drama series starring Eve Myles).

We parked and checked-in at Brown’s Hotel before wandering


number out as his own. The hotel is clearly proud

of their literary legend, with his poems and quotes

adorning the walls. Brown’s is today owned by

Nigel Short, who also runs Penderyn Whisky, so

the bar is always well stocked. The restaurant –

Dexter’s at Browns – is named after the breed of

cattle which makes up the hotel's own herd, which

is reared on nearby Llywn Farm. (Prices from £95

for one night; browns.wales.)

The house is now a visitor museum, shop and tea room, and

contains Thomas memorabilia and some of the original

furniture, including Dylan's father's desk. You can also take a

tour of the Writing Shed perched above the Boathouse where

Dylan wrote much of his poetry and also his famous radio

drama, Under Milk Wood.

You might also enjoy: The Dylan Thomas Birthday Walk: a

2-mile route to the edge of Sir John’s hill – the same walk Dylan

famously took on his 30th birthday – with a series of benches

inscribed with lines from Poem in October, and information

panels telling the history of the area.

Day Two

We headed to Colby Woodland Garden for our

weekly dose of Parkrun – a 5km running event that

takes place at 9am every Saturday across hundreds

of locations in the UK. Set in a tranquil secret valley,

this hidden woodland garden has a rich industrial

past and is owned by the National Trust, and makes

a lovely day out.

In search of some more Welsh history, our next

visit was to Dinefwr Estate and Castle just outside

Llandeilo, where Lord Rhys once held court and

influenced decisions about Wales. You need to

allow around two to three hours to explore this

stunning 800-acre estate. It’s a beautiful walk

through bluebell woods to get to the castle, where

your effort is rewarded by 360-degree views

overlooking the Tywi Valley and open countryside

from the castle walls. Be prepared before you set off

though, as there are no refreshments.

Where we stayed: Brown’s Hotel

We couldn’t have asked for a more welcoming, cosy and

atmospheric boutique hotel for our first night in Wales. It is

easy to see why Brown's was Dylan’s favourite too – he drank

there most nights, playing shove halfpenny, darts and skittles,

and even called in for tea and breakfast most mornings. In fact,

he was there so often that he would even give the hotel phone


FIRST PAGE: BOAT TRIP TO

SKOMER ISLAND TO SEE PUFFINS

PREVIOUS PAGE LEFT TO RIGHT:

CARMARTHENSHIRE COAST;

JESSICA ON THE COAST PATH AT

PENDINE SANDS; SEAVIEW, THE

FORMER HOME OF POET DYLAN

THOMAS CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT:

DYLAN THOMAS' WRITING SHED;

VIEWS FROM DINEFWR CASTLE;

MAP OF JESSICA'S JOURNEY NEXT

PAGE: PRETTY MARKET TOWN OF

LLANDEILO; JESSICA SITS ON A

ROCK AT AMROTH; NEWTON HOUSE

Illustration by Tonwen Jones


Back in the estate, surrounded by a National Nature

Reserve, we spent just over an hour exploring the

wonderful 18th-century Newton House and reading

more about the history of Dinefwr. Here you can join a

guided tour, watch the roaming deer from the fountain

garden – where often there is live music – and don’t miss

the binoculars in the upstairs stone balcony orangery for a

better view of the does, stags and their fawns.

We spent the rest of the afternoon pottering about

in the colourful, picturesque market town of Llandeilo,

scattered with an array of small independent shops,

galleries and cafes. We chatted to ceramic artist Ann

Goodfellow, owner of Ivy House as we marvelled over the

work of local artists, and enjoyed Welsh coffee cakes at

DIOD’s, where there is a relaxed Scandi-Welsh vibe.

On our way back to Brown’s we stopped in Carmarthen

and enjoyed dinner at The Warren, where the chef has

recently been awarded Chef of the Year from The Food

Awards Wales for his honest and wholesome food.

You might also enjoy: Aberglasney Gardens, with a unique

cloister garden and formal walled gardens dating back to

Elizabethan times – you’d be forgiven for thinking you’d

wandered onto the set of a period drama.


Pembrokeshire

Day Three

The sun was shining so we decided to make our way to the

stunning wide, south-facing, uncrowded blue-flag beach of

Amroth. Driving through the quaint village evoked the first

of many “would you live here?” tests, to which "yes" was the

unanimous reply. We went for a blissful dip in the sea and

relaxed for a while on the uncrowded beach.

The New Inn, a 16th-century pub with coastal views

serving home-made food and local fresh fish was the

perfect spot for lunch and to watch the windsurfers. We

spent the afternoon at Minwear Woods where we took a

peaceful Sunday afternoon stroll. There are a selection of

walking trails – we chose the 1.5 mile Minwear Walk, taking

around an hour.

You might also enjoy: Walking the Pembrokeshire Coast

Path (Amroth marks the southern start), or during low tide

walking 3 miles from Amroth to Saundersfoot.

Where we stayed: The Grove, Narberth

The Grove is one of the most luxurious hotels in Wales,

nestled in the heart of Pembrokeshire with views to

the Preseli Hills. Stay in the elegant house or one of

its charming cottages and enjoy sitting outside in the

manicured lawns by the pretty flower borders and

meandering stream. Inside is equally as exquisite;

bedrooms are luxurious havens with original features

and full of character. There are two restaurants: the finedining

Fernery, which has been awarded three coveted

AA Rosettes, and the more relaxed and informal Artisan

Rooms. For guests in need of pampering there are deep

cast-iron baths and in-room massages. One mile down

the road, the market town of Narberth is full of interesting

independent shops, including Ultracomida – one of the

best delis in the country, with a small dining area at the

back it's a delightful spot for a continental lunch. (Prices

from £245 per night, prideofbritainhotels.com.)


‘

It’s easy to imagine you’re the only person in

the world here; being off-the-beaten-track,

it's not unusual to have the beach all to yourself

’

Day Four

Just as we thought the beaches in Wales couldn’t be any more

beautiful, we discovered Barafundle Bay – pristine golden sand

and crystal-clear waters, backed by dunes and pine trees. It

could be easily mistaken for the Caribbean.

Owned by the National Trust, Barafundle Bay is only

accessible by foot (it's a half-mile walk from the car park over

Stackpole Head). This secluded location certainly adds to its

charm – it’s easy to imagine you’re the only person in the world

here; being off-the-beaten-track, it's not unusual to have the

beach all to yourself. It comes as no surprise that Barafundle

has been voted many, many times as one of the best beaches in

Britain and the world.

Next we explored Carew Castle and Tide Mill, an enormous

stone castle in a picturesque location next to the mill pond that

powers the tide mill, once a powerful stronghold and a grand

Elizabeth mansion. The tour guides here are brilliant, full of

fascinating anecdotes and little-known facts. In the afternoon

we headed to Tenby ambling the busy streets,

gift shopping, eating ice-creams and admiring

the pastel-coloured buildings and three glorious

beaches – there's also no shortage of restaurants,

cafes and pubs to refuel.

You might also enjoy: Taking a boat ride to Caldey

Island to see the Cistercian monastery. The

monks make and sell their own lavender perfume

and shortbread and you can purchase their own

postage stamps and currency in the post office.

Day Five

From Marloes Sands on the West Pembrokeshire

Coast, we hiked along the coast path to Martin’s

Haven, taking a short detour inland to Runwayskiln

coastal kitchen for a delicious alfresco lunch, and

arriving at Martin’s Haven just in time for our boat

trip to Skomer, Skokholm and Grassholm islands.

As a Site of Special Scientific Interest, this trio of

neighbouring islands is a haven for spotting many

fascinating species, including puffins, razorbills,

gannets, guillemots, manx shearwaters, grey

seals, dolphins, whales and porpoises – another

unmissable experience.

You might also enjoy: Continuing further along the

coast path from Martin’s Haven, with St Bride’s Bay

to your left, and stunning views of the Solva Coast,

St Davids Peninsula and Ramsey Island.


‘

For the most epic 360-degree views – on a

clear day reaching as far as Snowdonia and

Ireland – head to the hill top of Foel Drygarn

’

Where we stayed: Twr y Felin Hotel, St Davids

A former windmill and Wales' first modern art hotel, featuring

contemporary design throughout, Twr y Felin Hotel is decorated

from floor to ceiling with colourful abstract artwork – chosen to

evoke the Pembrokeshire landscape. The creativity doesn’t end

there either, the chefs in award-winning two Rosette restaurant

Blas are renowned for their flair in the kitchen – with guests and

non-guests dining there alike.

Bedrooms are luxurious and uncomplicated, with private

terraces and balconies. More time and I would have opted for

one of their complementary therapy experiences: Qi Gong

Meditation or Reiki. They also offer a range of natural holistic

treatments in their calming treatment room, as well as yoga and

coastal foraging. (Prices from £180 per night for two sharing,

twryfelinhotel.com.)

If you enjoy the water and being outdoors you

have come to the right place – with TYF adventures

(they have a booking office in the high street) at the

heart of the action – coasteering, kayaking, surfing,

climbing, wild swimming – you name it.

The trendy new place to be is Grain, a lively

restaurant in the heart of the town serving stonebaked

pizzas and award-winning Pembrokeshire

craft beer. Or, head to the National Park Visitor

Centre and Landscape Gallery located opposite the

hotel, which provides all the information you could

possibly need for exploring the Pembrokeshire

Coast National Park.

Twr y Felin also makes a perfect base for

exploring the Preseli Hills. For the most epic

360-degree views – on a clear day reaching as far

as Snowdonia and Ireland – head to the hill top of

Foel Drygarn. Then, from the village of Mynachlogddu

head towards the Bluestones Monument

(where some of the stones from Stonehenge

originated), to Carn Bica then follow the path

down to Bedd Arthur (Arthur’s Grave) a small

stone circle claimed by local folklore to be the final

resting place of King Arthur.

You might also enjoy: Jumping off the harbour wall

in high-tide in the village of Solva – for views there's

the Gribbin coastal walk, or head to The Royal

George Inn for a hearty and well-earned pub meal.

Day Six

From the hotel it is a short stroll into St Davids, Britain's smallest

city, where you will find plenty of cafes, pubs and the Cathedral.

The city has a trendy ‘surf’ vibe, with a mixture of independent

shops – including unsunghero with its underground skate cave,

funky custom-made boards and Steve the barista serving

excellent coffee – or for the more well-known stores there's Crew

Clothing, Joules and FatFace.


PREVIOUS PAGE LEFT TO RIGHT: VIEW OF BARAFUNDLE

BAY; PUFFINS ON SKOMER ISLAND; PRESELI HILLS

AND ARTHUR'S GRAVE; TYF ADVENTURE HIRE, ST

DAVIDS; LEFT TO RIGHT: ST. CRANNOG’S STATUE,

LLANGRANNOG; ABERAERON; VIEW OF THE CAMBRIAN

MOUNTAINS FROM DEVIL'S BRIDGE FALLS

IMAGES JESSICA'S OWN © VISITWALES/DREW BUCKLEY/SHUTTERSTOCK

Ceredigion

Day Seven

The coast is an absolute must-see in this region of West

Wales. Cardigan Bay is home to Europe's largest pod of

Bottlenose Dolphins, and many of Ceredigion beaches

are secluded coves that can only be reached on foot or by

boat. One of our absolute favourites is National Trust’s

hidden cove, Mwnt – picture postcard perfect with a little

whitewashed chapel and several steps down to the shore.

Aberporth, once an important village for herring fishing,

is another wonderful beach. We stopped here and walked

the coast path (one mile) to Tresaith, named after the River

Saith, which cascades as a waterfall over the cliffs to the

beach. Another National Trust beauty, Penbryn can only be

reached by meandering through some woods. Our beach

crawl concluded at Llangrannog, where we enjoyed homemade

food and sea views at The Pentre Arms.

Where we stayed: Penbontbren Holiday Cottages

Pretty in pale pink, the 1800’s chocolate-box farmhouse

Y Ffermdy, was where we stayed; a self-catering cottage

sleeping seven with its own three-acre garden.

Low-beamed ceilings, a huge inglenook and exposed

stone walls, and antique furniture gives it a snug and

homely feel. Stacked with books and board games, there’s

a conservatory and the choice of two sumptuous sitting

rooms to unwind in, as you play or read.

Hosts Richard and Kathryn (who moved to Wales

acquiring their business during lockdown) were extremely

welcoming and helpful with information, including

providing map print outs, about the local area.

On the farm there are also six luxurious B&B suites

(5 star), including the Garden Suite, with its own private

terrace. (Prices from £572 for four nights and £1,001 for a

week, rarehideaways.co.uk.)


Day Eight

We spent our last morning in New Quay where

we enjoyed breakfast while dolphin spotting. We

spent some time exploring the walled garden and

farmyard lake at National Trust’s Llanerchaeron,

an elegant Georgian villa, designed by architect

John Nash in 1790, before making our way to the

colourful town of nearby Aberaeron.

After mooching around the harbour and

independent craft shops we stumbled upon The

Hive by the waterside, serving fresh fish and

seafood. I recommend their homemade honey ice

cream (there’s a Turkish Delight version too).

You can't tick Ceredigion off your bucket list

without seeing the beautiful Cambrian Mountains

and taking a visit to the world-famous tourist

attraction Devil's Bridge Falls. We choose the

45-minute nature trail walk with views of the 300ft

Mynach waterfall. If you are a keen hiker then

don’t miss the Pumlumon trails too, with more

spectacular landscapes and climbs to the peak of

the Pumlumon Mountain.

Travelling through these three incredible

counties there is excitement and intrigue at every

turn along with a tremendously Croeso Cynnes

Cymreig, (warm Welsh welcome), so whichever

Celtic experiences you pick along your journey you

can’t go far wrong. From lush rolling countryside

and dramatic mountain ranges to the many

idyllic unspoilt beaches, Celtic Routes delivers an

adventure from start to finish. Memories are made

on this route and the Celtic Spirit is infectious.

‘

You can't tick Ceredigion off your bucket

list without seeing the beautiful Cambrian

Mountains... and Devil's Bridge Falls

’

Find out more

Jessica was hosted by Celtic Routes, a cross Irish Sea tourism

partnership comprising the coastal communities of Carmarthenshire,

Ceredigion, Pembrokeshire, Wicklow, Wexford and Waterford.

These regions have joined forces to deliver a selection of curated

travel experiences in order to encourage visitors to Ireland and Wales

to discover the Celtic Spirit by offering a number of immersive and

authentic Celtic experiences. To find out more visit celticroutes.info

and also take a look at visitwales.com to help plan your trip.



Your Gourmet

Guide to Wales

With Wales hosting the World Cheese Awards in November and

one of its Welsh restaurants being voted the best in the UK, this is

the country’s time to shine on the epicurean stage. Intrigued, Karyn

Noble enjoys a gastronomic tour. Here are some of her highlights...

In Wales you will find an

abundance of incredible

seafood to match the

views. Whether you have

a penchant for unique

restaurants with rooms, a

little poetic history with your

puddings, clifftop dining

and imbibing from Britain’s

only coastal national park,

or quietly impressive

lakeside retreats, Wales will

surprise and enthral you in

equal measures.

For too long Wales has

hidden in the shadows

of its more popular

neighbours. But now we’re

outing its most impressive

dining destinations, along

with tips for where to stay,

and don’t-miss highlights

while enjoying your foodtravel

tour.

Ynyshir

The first Welsh restaurant deemed

the UK’s best at the National

Restaurant Awards (2022), the two-

Michelin-starred Ynyshir in the Dyfi

Valley is much more than a dining

destination. It’s a ‘90s’-electronicmusic-soundtracked

extravaganza

in a house that was once Queen

Victoria’s. Expect a 5.5-hour feast of 30

indulgent courses from chef Gareth

Ward, including local crab and lobster

and Japanese Wagyu beef cooked on

open fire. ynyshir.co.uk

Where to Stay: There are three

fully-furnished luxury tipis at

Ynyshir, as well as eight hotel

bedrooms.

Don’t Miss: In-the-know locals

love the homemade Welsh

minted lamb pies at Tynycornel

Hotel on Tal-y-Llyn, an exquisitely

peaceful lakeside spot, 30

minutes’ drive north. It also has

rooms, if Ynshir is fully booked.


Asador 44

Food critic Tom Parker-Bowles

declared it could be his favourite

restaurant of 2020, and Asador 44

lives up to the hype; you could easily

find yourself believing you’re dining

in Northern Spain rather than Wales’

capital Cardiff, with the restaurant’s

huge Parilla grill and cuts of ex-dairy

Asturias beef displayed in glassfronted

fridges. It also has one of

the UK’s finest Spanish red wine

lists, and there are further excellent

Spanish drinking experiences to be

had at its sister Bar 44 around the

corner, especially if you are a sherry

connoisseur. asador44.co.uk

Where to Stay: Open since

June 2022, Parador 44 (upstairs

from Asador 44) is Cardiff’s first

food-focused luxury hotel, with

nine boutique rooms and the

Gonzaléz Byass guest lounge

and pantry that’s abundant with

Spanish treats (not to mention

complimentary PX-Sherry-soaked

Welsh cakes), which can be

enjoyed on the terrace. Or for

five-star luxury right on Cardiff

Bay, and floor-to-ceiling water

views, voco St Davids Cardiff has

a peaceful perspective.

Don’t Miss: A warm Welsh cake

fresh from the traditional cast-iron

griddle at Fabulous Welshcakes is

a perfect snack before (and after!)

exploring Cardiff Castle.

TheWalnut

Tree Inn

Near the English border,

two miles east of

Abergavenny is Michelinstarred

The Walnut Tree,

with chef Shaun Hill

overseeing operations

since 2008. His 50+ year

career as a chef is obvious

and his creations are

seemingly simple yet with a

sophisticated understanding

of flavour, enjoyed in an

artwork-filled dining room

that has an extremely loyal

following for its local produce

and relaxed ambience

thewalnuttreeinn.com

Where to Stay: The Walnut

Tree has two extraordinary

self-catering cottages (part

of the Caradog Cottage

collection) that are a pretty

garden stroll from its

restaurant, where you can

soak in a clawfoot bath and

watch the cows in a meadow

next door.

Don’t Miss: One of the

highest-profile food events

in Britain, The Abergavenny

Food Festival, occurs each

September, and is held

across six different venues,

including Abergavenny

Castle.


St Davids Gin

& Kitchen

In Britain’s smallest city of St

Davids you’ll find this ode

to sustainability and ethical

eating, a lively restaurant in

a vibrant-blue building run

by a family of farmers who

champion local Pembrokeshire

produce. Along with Solva

lobster and local oysters,

you must try their gin, with

botanicals foraged from the

peninsula.

stdavidskitchen.co.uk

Where to Stay: Twr Y Felin (a

9-minute walk from St Davids

Gin & Kitchen) is Wales’ first

contemporary art hotel,

and has a highly acclaimed

restaurant, Blas (below)

Don’t Miss: Blas Restaurant,

dark and moody, holds

3AA Rosettes and a flair for

capturing both flavour and ‘art

on a plate’.

Cliff Restaurant,

St Brides Spa

Hotel

Enjoy dramatic panoramic views

across Saundersfoot Bay with panfried

local cod with shellfish bisque

and mussels, or perhaps some

Welsh laverbread (seaweed) with

your poached eggs and mushrooms

at breakfast. stbridesspahotel.com

Where to Stay: St Brides Spa

Hotel has unbeatable views from

its 34-degree heated infinity

pool, or for some poetic history,

Browns Hotel in Laugharne,

Carmarthenshire, frequented by

Dylan Thomas, has 14 boutique

rooms (some with double rolltop

baths), and a self-contained

Dylan’s Den (for seven guests).

Don’t Miss: Tenby is a

picturesque paradise of pastel

houses, 13th-century stone

walls and classic seaside resort

tranquillity and grandeur.


Henry Robertson

Dining Room,

Palé Hall

Awarded Wales’ first Green Michelin

star in 2021, the Henry Robertson

Dining Room combines sustainability

with sublime surroundings in the

five-star Palé Hall country house

located on the edge of Snowdonia.

Choose from five-or eight-course

menus celebrating Welsh seasonality

with Japanese and Middle-Eastern

influences from head chef Gareth

Stevenson. palehall.co.uk

Where to Stay: Palé Hall or

Portmeirion (below) have

luxurious accommodation,

where no attention to detail or

extravagance is overlooked.

Don’t Miss: Portmeirion – 50

minutes’ drive east of Palé Hall

in Gwynedd, North Wales – is

beyond magical: a 130-acre,

pastel-coloured Italianate fairy

land, with a 2 AA rosette finedining

restaurant.

Take a bite at one of

Wales’ foodie events

The Big Cheese

It's hard to resist a festival called

The Big Cheese, which makes

its comeback in 2023, or for

those who can't wait there's a

smaller festival taking place this

September, called the Little Cheese.

Expect huge food halls to explore,

street food areas, cookery demos,

music events and all the medieval

activities and hijinks that a setting in

the town of Caerphilly demands.

(Little Cheese, 3-4 September

2022, The Big Cheese, 2-3

September 2023)

The Conwy

Honey Fair

The Conwy Honey Fair is said

to be one of Britain’s oldest

food festivals, dating back over

700 years. The Royal Charter of

Edward 1st dictates that it must

happen on the same date every

year – 13th September – unless

that date falls on a Sunday, in

which case, it moves to the

Monday after. At the fair, you

can expect to see honey, honeyrelated

products, beekeeping

stalls, preserves, sweet treats and

other produce and crafts.

Narberth Food

Festival

With food stalls, cookery

demonstrations, music, street

theatre and activities, this is the

perfect Pembrokeshire day out.

(24–25 September)

For more information,

see Visit Wales:

visitwales.com/food


WILDLIFE

WALKS


From its highest peaks to its urban centres, Britain is

a wildlife wonderland where orchids reclaim defunct

quarries, peregrine falcons nest on church towers, and

lion’s mane jellyfish trail flowing tentacles just off our

shores. Book author Charlotte Varela tells us more...

Text by Charlotte Varela

The natural world became an

escape – even a lifeline – for so

many of us over the course of

the past two years. So, too, did

our allotted daily walks; one precious hour

to forget about everything else and relish

streets, lanes and parks now echoing with

birdsong rather than car horns. Walks and

wildlife go hand in hand.

NORTH

When I tell someone I’m from the North

of England, I’m often met by one of two

responses: a quizzical, almost pitying look, or

a question about whether I spend time in the

Peak District or the Lake District.

There is so much more to the North than

mist, mizzle and the paths most trodden.

Just off the M6 motorway and a stone’s

throw from the city of Preston in Lancashire,

there is a hidden oasis.

Brockholes Nature Reserve is a lush

retreat into wilderness, where snipe feed on

the edges of sparkling lakes, hobbies snatch

dragonflies from mid-air and stoats scamper

sneakily through the shelter of flower-rich

grassland.

Imagine my surprise when, after pausing

on the footpath to take a sip from my water

bottle, a whole family of rambunctious

stoats dove out of the grass on one side and

tumbled into the cover of the other.


Continue up the M6 and you’ll find yourself

en-route to South Walney Nature Reserve in

Cumbria. It might not have the craggy skyline

of the Lakes proper, but it has a raw wildness

of a different kind. A rambling, windswept,

salty demeanour that echoes with the sounds

of seabirds and wading birds.

As summer melts into autumn, grayling

butterflies bask cryptically in the sunshine and

eider ducks, along with their young, prepare

to vacate the shore; heading out to sea before

migratory curlew move in.

MIDLANDS

The Midlands is a region of contrasts. Pockets

of atmospheric ancient woodland stand

defiantly in landscapes moulded by mining;

otters wind lithely through urban rivers and

canals; and woods, valleys and fields roll

towards a stunning coastline. Bridleways,

footpaths, trails and tracks wind across the

landscape, often connecting up neighbouring

nature reserves. It’s the perfect excuse for

a whole day – even a whole weekend – of

exploring on foot.

Take Derbyshire’s Wye Valley Reserves.

Here, three nature reserves – Miller’s Dale

Quarry, Priestcliffe Lees and Chee Dale –

stretch for almost four miles, connected by

the Monsal Trail. I stepped out of the car with

the intention of visiting just one of these wild

places, but the Wye Valley soon drew me along

with irresistible gifts. A dark green fritillary

butterfly darted around old spoil heaps.

Harebells, so delicate they could have been

painted onto the grass in watercolour, nodded

gently in the breeze. Then, before I retraced

my steps to the car, my eye caught the jaunty

bobbing of a dipper on a rock in the River Wye.

PREVIOUS PAGE LEFT

TO RIGHT: DIPPER

(CINCLUS CINCLUS);

COMMON FROG (RANA

TEMPORARIA); EUROPEAN

STOAT (MUSTELA

ERMINEA)

CLOCKWISE FROM

TOP LEFT: GRASS

SNAKE; WATER VOLE;

FOUR-SPOTTED

CHASER (LIBELLULA

QUADRIMACULATA)

DRAGONFLY

NEXT PAGE LEFT TO

RIGHT: WOODCOCK

(SCOLOPAX RUSTICOLA);

YELLOWHAMMER

(EMBERIZA CITRINELLA)


‘

My heart thrills whenever I visit a wildlife-friendly farm – Greystones being a

particularly heartening example of nature and farming working hand in hand

’

Whitacre Heath, too, forms a vital part of a

connected natural landscape – this time, the Tame

Valley Wetlands in Warwickshire.

Pools upon wet woodland upon wet grassland

attracts not just the who’s who of the bird world,

but frogs and toads, which in turn entice their archnemesis:

the grass snake.

SOUTH WEST

If heaven is a place on earth, that place must be

the South West. It would be rude not to dip your

toes into the brilliant blue waters of Lulworth Cove,

or gently probe for weird and wonderful rockpool

creatures in Padstow. But life doesn’t stop at the

coast; it thrives inland, too.

Nestled in Gloucestershire’s leg of the Cotswolds

Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty (AONB),

you’ll find Greystones Farm, a nature reserve

that can be visited time and again and yet still

surprise you. My heart thrills whenever I visit

a wildlife-friendly farm – Greystones being a

particularly heartening example of nature and

farming working hand in hand. In late summer, the

meadows beam with the colours of great burnet,

devil’s-bit scabious and meadowsweet.

The banks of the River Eye, left to flourish, give

water voles a sheltered run to their favourite diving

spots – listen for a ‘plop’ as they enter the water.

If you really can’t tear yourself away from

the coast, there is always Windmill Farm in


Cornwall. I’d go so far as to say this nature reserve is the

highlight of the Lizard Peninsula, with a mosaic of arable

crops, heathland and boggy patches sustaining marsh

fritillary butterflies, swallows and woodcock. There is

even a 17th-century windmill – once the hideout of one of

Cornwall’s most notorious gangs – to connect you to the

local history.

SOUTH EAST AND LONDON

The South East of England has a special kind of magic,

and not always in the way you’d expect. The celebrated

white cliffs and purple heathlands overshadow overlooked

gems that shine just as brightly when handed the spotlight.

Tring Reservoirs (plural – four reservoirs in fact) form one of

the best birdwatching spots in the South of England. Visiting

them all to look for reed warblers, sedge warblers and teal

will take around five hours, but if you’re pushed for time,

head to Wilstone Reservoir. It hosts a fantastic heronry, and

as the waters recede on the mudflats in autumn, you’ll find a

hidden treasure: the rare plant, mudwort.

Even London safeguards green escapes from the hustle

and bustle. Camley Street Natural Park is a hop, skip and

a jump from St Pancras and King’s Cross, yet transports

you to another place entirely. A place where bees and

butterflies fight for the best seat at the nectar buffet,

fungi hide in the cool wood, and floating reedbeds help to


IMAGES © ANDY ROUSE/2020VISION / ROSS HODDINOTT/2020VISION / TERRY WHITTAKER/2020VISION / DANNY GREEN/2020VISION / MARK HAMBLIN/2020VISION / CHRIS GOMERSALL/2020VISION

prevent canal pollution. Plus, there’s a café – we all

know the best walks end with cake.

I’ve barely scraped the surface of Britain’s

wildlife walks, but that in itself is a comfort. There

will always be a new adventure or something to

discover, even at a nature reserve you were sure

you’d investigated from top to bottom. Keep

exploring. Keep walking.

Wildlife Walks: Get

back to nature at more

than 475 of the UK's

best wild places

Wildlife Walks is a companion

to your discovery of nature

across the UK. Charlotte

Varela has created a definitive guide to Britain's

stunning natural heritage, including woods,

heaths, moors and wetlands all owned and

managed by the unique network of Wildlife Trusts.

With details about everything you could need to

plan a walk at each nature reserve, plus hundreds

of beautiful photographs, you’re guaranteed to

find your next happy place.

Charlotte Varela is the author of Wildlife Walks:

Get back to nature at more than 475 of the UK's best

wild places, published by Bloomsbury Wildlife and out

now (paperback: £16.99).

WALKS ON THE WILD SIDE

—

When was the last time you went for a walk? A proper walk.

Not plodding along, head down, but casting your eyes over

every surface, breathing in deep lungfulls of fresh air, and

most importantly, pausing to just listen and enjoy becoming

a part of the landscape to the wildlife around you. Here are

some more wild spots not to be missed from around the UK:

Brownsea Island, Dorset

Among the best birdwatching spots in the South West, a

breathtaking retreat for people and a haven for red squirrels.

The Isles of Scilly

An enchanting archipelago, home to dizzyingly diverse plant,

animal and birdlife, from seabirds and dwarf pansies on the

cliffs to dolphins in the crystal-clear ocean.

Sandwich and Pegwell Bay, Kent

One of the best places in the UK to see migrating birds, such

as nightingales, cuckoos, sanderlings and waxwings.

Cley and Salthouse Marshes, Norfolk

The oldest Wildlife Trust nature reserve and one of the best

birdwatching spots in the UK.

Gibraltar Point, Lincolnshire

A spectacular stretch of unspoilt coastline, with sweeping

views out to sea and a dazzling diversity of life.

Moseley Bog, Birmingham

The childhood playground of J. R. R. Tolkien, where fungi fill

the woods in autumn and Bronze Age burnt mounds allude

to a fascinating social history.

Wigan Flashes, Lancashire

Lakes formed from mining subsidence form part of a wild

mosaic of reedbed, fen, grassland and woodland. Look out

for rare willow tits.

Loch of the Lowes, Perth and Kinross

Loch of the Lowes is famous for its breeding ospreys,

and their eyrie sits just 150m from the nature reserve’s

viewing hide.


The

VALLEY

of

PARADISE

Set in subtropical gardens down a quiet country lane in a

hidden corner of Cornwall, and recently re-modernised under

new ownership, Hotel Meudon is a rare holiday gem with its own

secluded beach, high-class cuisine and breathtaking beauty

Text by Jessica Way



It is impossible not to fall in love with Hotel Meudon

upon arrival – it evokes your senses; the sweet smells,

popping colour and blissful ambient sounds from

the unrivalled subtropical garden transcend you into

another world entirely.

The glamour and tranquillity of Meudon doesn’t end

there, inside you become enthralled by its eccentric charm

– full of character preserved in time and never lost. The

lounge-like reception area is beautifully decorated with

vintage furniture, including Nelson designed pendants and

Santa & Cole floor lights. With jazz music reverberating

from the Drawing Room you could easily believe you've

timewarped back to the 1960s when the elegant bijou

hotel first opened – and was celebrated as the most

modern hotel in Cornwall – by Harry Pilgrim.

We were greeted by affable staff who took our luggage

– it was too early to check-in to our room so they warmly

suggested taking an early-afternoon wander down to

Bream Cove, a secluded private bay nestled at the bottom

of their garden. Beach towels in arms and feeling as

though we didn’t have a care in the world, we meandered

through the picturesque meadow of giant rhododendrons,

mimosas, gunneras, camellias, Jurassic-looking tree ferns

and other plant-hunter finds from around the world.

It's a fascinating stroll, the giant rhubarbs make you

feel as though you’ve entered the film set for Honey I

Shrunk The Kids – each leaf reaches up to seven feet tall

and stretches over, creating huge green canopies fanning

out from tall, thick, spiky trunks, while the 10-metre-tall

magnolia fill the valley with colour.

It is the Quakers we must thank initially for this nineacre

paradise, Falmouth’s famous Fox family who owned

the property back in the early 1800s. Their passion for

exotic gardens set the tone and initial vision for this

tropical splendour, with later generations adding their

own mark. During the beginning of lockdown, new

proprietors Kingfisher Resorts acquired the hotel from the

Pilgrim family, who had owned the hotel for over 60 years.


‘

The gardens might be Meudon’s jewel

in the crown but the private beach cove

is their best-kept-secret...

’

explained that the name Meudon was taken from

a nearby farmhouse which had been nicknamed

'Mowi do Non' by the Napoleonic prisoners of war

who built it after their home village near Paris. This

became shortened to Meudon. Then, under the

new ownership ‘Meudon Hotel’ has been given a

fresh modern twist and a subtle repositioning to

‘Hotel Meudon’.

And it is not only the hotel name that has

been tastefully remodelled. The sympathetic

refurbishments have enhanced its '60s heyday – the

original furniture has been given a new lease of life,

including the Ercol chairs and tables on the bridge

and a fabulous glass coffee table in the drawing

room. Even the chairs in the bedrooms are the

The gardens might be Meudon’s jewel in the crown but the

private beach cove is their best-kept-secret and the new owners

have been quick off the mark to fine-tune guest experiences

there – from opening The Bream Box, offering barista-style

coffee and a tempting range of pastries, treats and snacks

(home-made chocolate brownies are delicious!) to introducing

snorkelling, stand-up-paddleboarding and kayaking with local

resident Dan of Little Wolf Adventures, who describes himself as

part-man, part-fish!

You also can’t beat a wild swim at Bream Cove – the crystalclear

calm waters lure you in. At low tide it is possible to

scramble over the rock pools to the sandy beach at Gatamala

Cove and walkers can enjoy the four-mile circular walk along

the South West Coast Path to Rosemullion Head and the

Helford Estuary.

Feeling fabulously refreshed after our sea swim, we made our

way back through Meudon Woods to the hotel where we were

shown to our Large Sea View with Balcony room by General

Manager, Samantha Banks. Why ‘Meudon,’ I asked? Sam


‘

The sympathetic refurbishments have

enhanced its '60s heyday – the original

furniture has been given a new lease of life

’

original 1960s Parker Knoll Froxfields, restored and

reupholstered.

Besides the many belongings lovingly kept and

restored there are some lovely modern design

features too, including new bathrooms and glass

balconies, while the Cornish toiletries, hanging clay

tiles on the walls designed with a Cornwall crest

and the beautiful bold artwork from local artist

Nicola Bealing nod towards a sense of place and

Cornish provenance.

On the way to dinner in the hotel’s awardwinning

Restaurant Meudon, we spot menus

hanging on the walls from some of the world’s top

dining establishments – including a signed menu

from El Bulli.

A bright-yellow sea bream with red human

ankles and feet – specially commissioned from

artist Nicola Bealing – greets you before the maître

d' takes you to your table.

Restaurant Meudon has a wonderful aura – you

are made to feel special from the moment you

walk in. The setting is spectacular, floor-to-ceiling

windows allow the natural light to flood through

to the opulent décor – think: pine parquet flooring,

stylishly refurbished 1960s dining chair originals,

glass chandeliers and lighting from Vistosi. Guests

are seated with views overlooking the glorious

Meudon gardens, and a grapevine flourishing in

the conservatory brings the outside in.

I ordered baked Camembert followed by

roast south coast cod and morello cherry soufflé

for dessert – and savoured every extraordinary

mouthful. Menus are inspired by nouvelle cuisine,

with fresh fish and seafood, locally farmed meats

and seasonal game, complemented by Cornwall’s

own natural larder: fresh ingredients grown and

foraged in the hotel’s gardens. The chefs exquisite,

artistic creations look as incredible as they taste.

Found in the oldest part of the hotel, off the

drawing room, Freddie’s speakeasy-style cocktail

bar has everything you need for a decadent

nightcap, from locally sourced artisan gins to

wondrous whiskies – and even their own evening

menu with light bites such as charred fennel and

orange hummus charred flatbread or Fowey scallop


OPENING PAGE: BREAM COVE PREVIOUS PAGE CLOCKWISE

FROM LEFT: HOTEL MEUDON; JESSICA AND HER DOG POPPY;

THE GARDEN WALK; DRAWING ROOM THIS PAGE: SEA VIEW

SUITE; COCKTAILS AT FREDDIE'S BAR; BRAISED BEEF CHEEK WITH

BOURGUIGNON GARNISH; DINING ROOM; DRAWING ROOM

and crab carpaccio. Rum is my spirit of choice, so I ordered

a Rum Mochaccino with Meudon spice and made a toast

to a blissful day.

A scrumptious bubble and squeak breakfast the next

morning was the fuel needed for a coastal hike to Trebah

Gardens. Directions are made easy – on reaching Bream

Cove you turn right and head across the Rosemullion

headland towards the Helford River. It is a picturesque walk

taking you past several beaches: Cows, Porth Saxon and

Grebe. Save yourself, though – Trebah, in similar fashion

to Hotel Meudon (and for which it could be mistaken as its

big sister), is also blessed with its own secluded bay at the

bottom of the garden: Polgwidden Cove.

You could easily spend all day exploring the four miles

of footpaths through the three wondrous valleys, and 26

acres of exotic blooms and champion trees at Trebah. We

chose the river walk that cascades down to Polgwidden

Cove, where we enjoyed a locally made Roskilly's ice

cream before making our way back to Hotel Meudon

along the Carwinion’s footpath through the hotel’s own

bamboo plantation.

Rather than making your way inland on the coastal

path to reach the gardens, you might like to continue just

a little further to Helford Passage and The Ferry Boat Inn.

From here you can pop onto the passenger ferry crossing

to Helford and the idyllic Helford Creek or simply enjoy the

Helford River – a large estuary and popular spot for standup

paddleboarding, boating and sailing, linking Falmouth

Bay with the eastern side of The Lizard Peninsula.

Or take the coast path in the opposite direction,

heading left from Bream Cove towards Falmouth past

Maenporth Beach and Stack Point. Once you reach

Falmouth’s town beach, overlooked by the impressive

Pendennis Castle, you can cross the mouth of the River

Fal by ferry to the pretty fishing village of St Mawes, a

must-visit spot on the Roseland Peninsula with excellent

restaurants, pubs, shops and galleries.

Following a long walk I rewarded myself with a

delightful Revitalising Body and Mind massage by Emslie,

(a wonderful therapist!) in the hotel's Sanctuary Suite.

If you are heading to Meudon for a wellness break you

might also enjoy taking part in a private yoga session in

the garden or letting off some steam at one of the weekly

fitness sessions.

There’s a rather stylish brand-new outdoor bar too,

where Dom, Meudon’s top mixologist will shake you up

a cocktail of choice. Mine was their signature Cornish

twist on a 'Bronx', using local Rosemullion Seafarers Gin,

Martini Rubino, Noilly Prat, freshly squeezed orange and

dashes of orange bitters – it was (just as Dom had told me

it would be) sharp, refreshing and full of citrus zing.

Speaking about Bream Cove, Dom also tells me

about the Boxing Day dip – swimmers are welcomed

after their plunge by staff with hot water bottles, nibbles

and warming mulled wine. It seems this sublime hotel is

prepared for every season too.

Hotel Meudon is dog-friendly, (including the garden and

beach), rooms cost from £129 per night B&B (based on two

people sharing in low season); meudon.co.uk


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THEATRE SPECIAL

BEHIND THE CURTAIN

Don't miss the biggest performances taking the stage

Mary Poppins

The magical story of the world’s favourite Nanny arriving

on Cherry Tree Lane has been brilliantly adapted from

the wonderful stories by PL Travers and the original

beloved Walt Disney film, and triumphantly and

spectacularly brought to the stage with dazzling choreography,

incredible effects and unforgettable songs.

Since its opening in London 18 years ago the award-winning

stage version of Mary Poppins, continues to be a smash hit,

having just opened in Tokyo earlier this year and Sydney in

May where it has been received wonderfully by critics and

audiences alike. The production has been running for over 1,250

performances, spreading Mary Poppins ‘supercalifragilistic’

magic around the globe – and theatre buffs now have the

chance to attend the final performance in London’s West End in

the new year. ◆

Showing at Prince Edward Theatre, Old Compton Street,

Soho, London W1D 4HS, ticket prices from £20;

marypoppinsonstage.co.uk


Les Misérables

In celebration of the show’s 25th anniversary the latest

production of Les Misérables has taken the world by storm

continuing to enjoy record-breaking runs in countries

including North America, Australia, Japan, Korea, France

and Spain – and is now showing in the West End.

After nearly 20 years working on the chain gang Jean

Valjean is finally released on parole only to find that the

yellow ticket he is required by law to display marks him as an

outcast, an undesirable not to be trusted.

As Valjean struggles to make his way in his new life he

encounters the Bishop of Digne who gives him a chance to

start again. Police Inspector Javert cannot let this man slip

away, he is determined to bring Valjean to justice. As Valjean

leads a new life under a new name, Javert is constantly

looming around the corner and in the meantime revolution is

in the air of Paris. Boublil and Schönberg’s magnificent iconic

score of Les Misérables includes the classic songs, I Dreamed

a Dream, On My Own, Stars, Bring Him Home, Do You Hear

the People Sing?, One Day More, Empty Chairs at Empty Tables,

Master Of The House and many more.

Several of its songs have become real life anthems of

revolution wherever in the world people are fighting for their

freedom. Seen by over 120 million people worldwide in 52

countries and in 22 languages, Les Misérables is undisputedly

one of the world’s most popular and contemporary musicals. ◆

Les Misérables is showing at Sondheim Theatre,

Shaftesbury Avenue, London, W1D 6BA, ticket prices from

£10.00; lesmis.com


The Phantom of the Opera

The Phantom of the Opera is widely considered one

of the most beautiful and spectacular productions in

history. Andrew Lloyd Webber’s romantic, haunting

and soaring score includes Music of the Night, All I Ask

of You, Wishing You Were Somehow Here Again, Masquerade and

the iconic title song.

It tells the tale of a disfigured musical genius known only

as ‘The Phantom’ who haunts the depths of the Paris Opera

House. Mesmerised by the talents and beauty of a young

soprano – Christine, the Phantom lures her as his protégé and

falls fiercely in love with her. Unaware of Christine’s love for

Raoul, the Phantom’s obsession sets the scene for a dramatic

turn of events where jealousy, madness and passions collide.

The Phantom of the Opera tickets remain some of the most

popular in London after more than 30 years!

The soaring music of this classic production has made it a

mainstay of the West End for decades. This production is one

that brings people back time and time again. If you’ve never

seen it before, what are you waiting for? ◆

The Phantom of the Opera plays at Her Majesty's

Theatre, Monday – Saturday 7.30pm with matinees on

Saturday & Thursday at 2.30pm. Tickets from £22.50;

uk.thephantomoftheopera.com


top ten

AUTUMN

BREAKS

Need inspiration for a short break? We've gathered together

ten of the most unique luxury experiences available to try this

autumn, from exclusive backstage tours at the opera to guided

hikes on the Lake District’s most photogenic fells

Text by Natalie Paris

1

Wild foraging in Abergavenny

The Angel is an historic inn at the centre of

Abergavenny’s foodie-friendly town and a

base for foraging walks at the foot of the Black

Mountains. Local wild food expert, Adele Nozedar,

is the author of the The Hedgerow Handbook and

will lead the walks, aiming to equip foragers with

the knowledge to help them find and eat their

own wild food. On selected dates in October

she will help visitors discover autumn berries –

including hawthorn, rosehips and sloes – as well

as mushrooms and green wild food. Abergavenny

is bursting with quality farm shops, cafes and

restaurants, while The Angel offers not only hotel

rooms but two comfortable cottages and a lodge in

the grounds of Abergavenny Castle too.

angelabergavenny.com

One night’s B&B at The Angel costs from £167,

including a foraging course


2

The Lake District’s best hikes

How can you be sure to see

the best of the Lake District’s

spectacular landscapes on a

short break? Linthwaite House is offering

guided, all-day hikes to some of the

region’s most photographic spots led by

Steve Watts, an experienced fell walker and

runner who has an in-depth knowledge

of Lakeland life. The hikes are tailored to

walkers’ individual interests and abilities

and are followed by dinner at the hotel’s

restaurant Henrock afterwards, which is

under the guidance of Michelin-starred

chef Simon Rogan.

Linthwaite House has far-reaching views

over Lake Windermere, and has a small

lake within the grounds that is suitable for

rowing boats.

leeucollection.com

A one-night Making Memories package

from Linthwaite House costs from £830,

based on two sharing, including dinner

and a packed lunch and flask


3

Off-roading in the

Yorkshire Dales

Luxury spa hotel The

Coniston is offering guests

an adventurous way to experience

the landscapes of the Yorkshire

Dales, by tackling its scenic rough

terrain in a Land or Range Rover.

The hotel’s specially designed

escorted tours will thrill passengers,

overcoming both rocks and water in

order to access the best viewpoints.

The vehicle will be packed with

luxury food and drink for the journey.

Choose between a romantic trip to

proposal-worthy spots, a relaxing

picnic and Prosecco drive or a pies

and pints tour that calls in at some of

the Dales’ finest pubs. The hotel has

70 bedrooms, plus an outdoor hot

tub and rolltop baths for a soak with

lake views.

theconistonhotel.com

One night’s B&B at The Coniston

with a picnic and Prosecco tour costs

from £228 per person


5

Wild picnics in Perthshire

With rugged hills meeting the eye in all

directions, the remote, wooden lunch hut

on the Straloch Estate is a dramatic spot for

a fresh-air feast. Picnic guests are either driven in a

Land Rover up to the solitary hut, which is kitted out

in sheepskins and stands in a fold of Perthshire hills,

or they can take an hour to walk up there, on paths

through heather and gorse. The gourmet pies, soups,

sandwiches, brownies and pudding pots, all whipped

up by the estate’s chef, can feed up to ten people.

The estate offers guests a three-bedroom house and

a two-bedroom keeper’s cottage to stay in and, from

late September to October it is common to hear the

roar of rutting stags. Guided walks and kayaking on

the loch are also possible.

straloch.com

Three nights in a Straloch Estate cottage with a wild

picnic costs from £180, based on full occupancy,

excluding transport and drinks

4

Metal detecting in Suffolk

Not far from the ancient Anglo Saxon burial

site at Sutton Hoo, detectorists are curious

as to what else lies beneath the Suffolk

soil. Metal detecting tours give visitors a chance to

uncover special finds in this area, which is renowned

for its important historical and archeological

discoveries. Offered by Butley Priory, the gatehouse

for a former 12th-century Augustinian monastery, the

metal-detecting tours explore pasture and farmland

at different sites over three days. Included in the

package is a stay at a Grade II-listed Butley Abbey

Farmhouse, which is a mile from the filming location

of the 2021 Netflix film The Dig. Talks from historians

are scheduled each evening and all equipment can be

hired at an extra cost.

butleypriory.co.uk

Three nights metal detecting at Butley Abbey

Farmhouse in September costs from £950, allinclusive


6

Watersports in the Scottish Highlands

Adrenaline seekers should consider the water

sports available from boutique hotel Airds this

autumn. With a focus on white-water rafting

in particular, Airds offers a range of craft to tame the

river rapids on Scotland’s West Coast. Solo guests can

give ‘river bugging’ a go, or a pair of adventurers can

try ‘funyakking’ in a small, inflatable kayak. Canyoning,

gorge walking and coasteering are all also possible.

The sports suit teenagers as well as active adults and

the hotel, part of the Relais & Châteaux group, has

views that stretch across Loch Linnhe to the Morvern

Mountains. For anyone wanting to stay dry, the hotel

can also recommend memorable cycling and hiking

trips from its doorstep, as well as gardens to visit and

whisky tasting in Oban.

airds-hotel.com

A two-night B&B stay at Airds costs from £590

based on two sharing, with water-sports activities

priced individually

7

Apple pressing and glamping in

Cornwall

Autumn is harvest time, with apples,

plums and gages all ripe and ready for

plucking from the boughs at The Fir Hill Estate

near Newquay. Guests at this carbon-neutral yurtglamping

site are being invited to help with fruit

picking in the expanded orchards this season. The

owner is keen to try a new cider press also, so guests

who would like to make their own apple juice can

take their haul to the cider house and create a bottle

to take home. The 62-acre historic estate overlooks

the Porth Reservoir and has 15 Mongolian-style yurts

that are lined with sheep wool felt and come with

personal firepits and barbecues. Free entry to The

Lost Gardens of Heligan is possible, where the barn

fills with rainbow pumpkins at this time of year.

thefirhill.co.uk

Three nights in a yurt at The Fir Hill Estate costs from

£330 based on two sharing until 31 October 2022


8

Wye Valley electric biking

Nestled deep in the Forest of Dean, chic boutique

hotel Tudor Farmhouse has come up with an ideal way

for guests to enjoy autumn displays of colour in the

surrounding trees. Electric bikes can be hired at the property to

take along various trails nearby. The valley should be a blaze of

russet and gold leaves at this time, with views afforded across the

River Wye on one trail and the chance to spot peregrine falcons

on another. There is also a nine-mile loop suited to families.

Massages are available post-ride, as the hotel has its own

shepherd's hut spa cabin. Other opportunities to commune with

nature include river swimming, picnics, forest bathing, wildlife

safaris and guided stargazing.

tudorfarmhousehotel.co.uk

A two-night e-bike safari with Tudor Farmhouse costs from £650,

with dinner, B&B, a packed ‘power’ lunch and one day e-bike hire


10

A shopping butler in Jersey

Travellers who love collecting beautiful

things can benefit from personalised

retail therapy on Jersey island. The

Club Hotel & Spa has a butler dedicated to shopping

who can treat guests to a one-to-one consultation

before they even set foot in a boutique. Laura Morel,

a qualified stylist, will discuss guests’ individual tastes

with them before revealing how to make the most

of the island’s tax-free shopping opportunities. She

knows where to find the best boutiques and markets,

and will have access to exclusive discounts for

designer department stores. Once back at the hotel,

guests can relax in the world-class spa or try a tasting

menu in Michelin-starred restaurant Bohemia.

theclubjersey.com

Two nights at The Club Hotel & Spa costs from

£519, based on two sharing, and includes the butler

experience (available Friday and Saturday) and a

tasting menu for two

9

Backstage at the opera

For opera lovers, a private backstage

tour of the Royal Opera House hits all the

right notes. An exclusive peek behind the

scenes is offered by the hotel NoMad London, a

smart, culturally sophisticated, boutique property

that is located close to the internationally renowned

opera house in Covent Garden. Guests will receive

two tickets to the opera of their choice, as well as a

tour of the Opera House prior to the performance,

two cocktails back at the hotel and a signed Royal

Opera House Picture Book. Major shows for the

autumn season include Salome, Aida, Mayerling and

La Boheme. The NoMad has artwork inspired by the

Opera House throughout its Grade II-listed building,

which used to be Bow Street Magistrates’ Court.

thenomadhotel.com

A Night At The Opera, through The NoMad

Hotel costs from £525 B&B, with a minimum

30-day booking lead time


CAMPERVAN

road trips

With Yescapa, great British road trips are made easy, and together with

our round-up of some of the best, your expedition should be a breeze!

Sleep under the stars, be first on the beach, swim in the sea, toast

marshmallows over the firepit and travel as and when you please...

A HIGHLAND FLING WITH THE NORTH

COAST 500 IN SCOTLAND

Get your fill of fresh air, wide-open spaces and

dramatic views on an epic campervan road trip

through the Scottish Highlands on the North Coast

500. The road trip on everyone’s must-do list, this

circular route features a greatest-hits list of Scottish

scenery, stretching across more than 800km of back

roads. Skirting the coast from Inverness and the Black

Isle, past the seaboard crags of Caithness, Sutherland

and Wester Ross, it offers Gothic ruins, rugged

fairways, historic castles, shingle-sand beaches, tiny

fishing hamlets and peaty whisky distilleries. Along

the way, the route builds as it progresses, from the

east coast villages of Dornoch and Wick to Aultbea,

Poolewe and Gairloch on the rugged west coast,

where the wild peaks of Loch Maree are found.

Finally, the road reaches Bealach na Bà, which loops

up and over the Applecross Peninsula for an aweinspiring

finish.

Hire from Elizabeth. Elizabeth’s midnight blue

executive campervan near Glasgow, is a four-berth

Toyota Alphard camper. Comfortable and spacious

with a fully-equipped kitchen, it’s perfect for creating a

romantic meal for two under the stars. Easy to

handle – it’s a first-class driving and living experience.

Four nights from £676


Hire from Paul. Paul’s luxurious campervan is a

Volkswagen T5 based in Brampton, near the Lake District.

This spacious four-berth van features a full-width bed, popup-roof

bed, night heater, tinted windows, leisure battery,

dining table, toilet, full kitchen, and plenty of storage.


GETTING OFF GRID AND WILD SWIMMING IN

THE LAKE DISTRICT

Take a scenic road trip through the Lake District

National Park with its 16 lakes and 214 fells. Highlights

include Arnside and Silverdale Area of Outstanding

Natural Beauty (AONB), with its ancient woodlands

and meadows; Cartmel – home of sticky toffee pudding;

Windermere, the largest natural lake in England;

Grasmere, at the foot of several impressive fells and

once home to William Wordsworth; and the dramatic

Langdale Valley.


WAKE UP WITH A DIFFERENT VIEW EVERY

DAY ON A CAMPERVAN ADVENTURE IN

CORNWALL

Enjoy the freedom of the open road with nights spent

sleeping under the stars, waking up with breathtaking

views of the coast and countryside. There are endless

Cornish adventures to choose from – explore the

dramatic coastal roads and take in the beaches,

surfing and water sports as well as dine on sumptuous

cream teas, Cornish pasties and fresh seafood.

Discover nearby highlights such as Mousehole, the

Lost Gardens of Heligan, St Michael’s Mount and

Land’s End and stay overnight at Gwithian Farm

Campsite near St Ives, with stunning views of Hayle

Beach (regularly featured as one of the top 10 best

UK campsites).

Set off in Dharma for a motor adventure with a

difference. Based in Carnkie, just outside of Redruth,

Cornwall, this 2015 converted Peugeot Boxer is easy to

drive with all the modern comforts from home, including a

hot shower system to deal with those days in the surf.

A double bed and lovely interiors will evoke a soothing

sleep while listening to the lapping waves.



MEANDER THE COUNTRY LANES OF THE

COTSWOLDS FOR A FABULOUS PHOTO TOUR

Take the slow road to the Cotswolds, the heart of

England, a couple of hours' drive from London. With

800 square miles to explore, the Cotswolds runs

through five counties (Gloucestershire, Oxfordshire,

Warwickshire, Wiltshire and Worcestershire). Discover

the lesser-known country lanes and travel through

timeless scenery amid the rolling countryside. Learn

about the history, heritage and the stories behind

the people, the places, and the landscape, and

make a deeper connection to this wonderful region.

Uncover the traditional honey-coloured cottages in

the lively market towns of Tetbury, Woodstock and

Winchcombe, a magnet for hikers who wish to walk the

Cotswolds Way. This trip will take you along the length

and breadth of the boundaries as well as to the highest

point of the region, and through its beautiful valleys

and vales – the perfect viewpoints for fabulous photo

opportunities and fascinating places to wander.

Hire from Christopher. Christopher’s 1989 vintage VW

campervan, Freda is a four-berth campervan made for

adventure. It includes a kitchenette, a cosy living room area,

and an extremely comfortable double bed. There is a bike

rack on the back and rooftop storage, the van also comes with

a BBQ / firepit, chairs and table and three hammocks.


ART, CULTURE AND DRAMATIC SCENERY

ON THE SOUTH DOWNS

An exciting new route launched by Sussex Modern (a

collaboration of artistic, cultural and wine-making

venues) celebrates this region's modern highlights.

Create your own route, taking in the county’s galleries,

museums, and artists’ houses. Visit Eastbourne’s

Towner Art Gallery, which houses a collection of

contemporary artworks, including the work of Sussex

born Eric Ravilious (1903–1942), who depicted the

Sussex coastline and countryside with the likes of

Lighthouses at Newhaven (1935), and Beachy Head

(unfinished; c.1939).

Based at the foot of the South Downs in Storrington,

this comfortable and fully equipped Converted Peugeot

Van is a four-berth with fixed double bed, and a Cabbunk

System that can be assembled in the van cab, suitable for

two children. Featuring an indoor shower, built-in toilet,

and a kitchen with fridge and dinnerware, it is easy to

drive with a powerful engine; perfect for exploring the

rolling hills of the South Downs. There is lots to explore

nearby, including the beautiful Seven Sisters hills, fantastic

beaches such as Birling Gap, the Cuckmere Haven estuary

with its paddleboarding opportunities, and excellent

English wine vineyards such as Rathfinney and Bolney.

Don't miss special excursions, such as to Charleston Farm

House, historic former home to the Bloomsbury set.



ADVENTURE ON THE NORFOLK AND

SUFFOLK COAST

Explore the Suffolk and Norfolk coastline, which

offers long, wild beaches, picturesque villages, historic

buildings, pleasant market towns, and traditional

seaside resorts. There are also fantastic opportunities

for wildlife spotting, as well as sampling the wonderful

local beers and seafood that this part of the country

is known for. The drive along the East Anglian coast

is approximately 200 miles in length, and with so

many places to stop along the way, there's no point

rushing. You can do the trip in three to five days,

depending on how many locations you want to visit.

Norfolk highlights include The Wash – a large bay

containing marshes and mud flats that's an important

habitat for birds; the Victorian resort of Hunstanton,

known for its elegant gardens and distinctive striped

cliffs; and the pretty harbour town of Wells-nextthe-Sea,

close to Holkham, is a good place to

stop off for some fish and chips before making the

20-minute drive to Blakeney Point, an important

nature reserve that's home to England's largest seal

colony. Suffolk highlights include Lowestoft, the UK's

easternmost town and the first place in the country

to see the sunrise; charming Southwold which has a

restored 190-metre-long Victorian pier that houses

a water clock; and RSPB Minsmere Nature Reserve

which offers wetlands, woodlands, and beaches to

explore on foot. There's an ever-changing array of

fauna, including otters, red deer, bitterns, and marsh

harriers, to spot throughout the year.

Big Red is a fully equipped 4-berth VW Campervan is

a late 2017 T6 High Line, newly converted to a Camper in

2021, based in Bury St Edmunds, Suffolk. Its 2.0L 150hp

TDI engine will efficiently power you up the steepest hills,

and the automatic gearbox with cruise control makes

motorway miles a pleasure. It features a RIB double bed

on the ground floor and a second double bed up top. Big

Red also has air conditioning to keep you cool on your

drive and an onboard diesel-powered heater to keep you

warm during your autumn and winter campervan trips.

The twin front passenger seat swivels round to make

comfortable seating for four, and a pop-in table makes for

a great indoor dining space. The plush fully fitted kitchen

includes a twin burner hob, a sink with onboard water

tank, a fridge/freezer and plenty of cupboard space. If your

adventure takes you to a campsite, Big Red can be hooked

up to 240v mains or if you are wild camping there is a solar

panel to charge the powerful leisure battery for the fridge,

lighting and music.



YORKSHIRE COAST FAMILY ROAD TRIP ON

‘ROUTE YC’

A newly launched coastal driving route, Route YC,

takes in the beautiful coastline, verdant countryside,

nostalgic seaside towns and Northern charm of the

Yorkshire Coast. This sequence of coastal loops

features six adventure-filled routes, allowing visitors

to experience the coast their way, with ideas for

hiking, biking, water sports and more. There are also

suggestions for towns and beaches – such as Whitby,

Bridlington, Scarborough and Filey – to stop at along

the way. Experience the stunning natural beauty of the

region on a motorhome road trip, taking in highlights

such as the birthplace of British surfing in Bridlington,

outstanding seafood in Scarborough, coasteering in

Thornwick Bay and birdwatching at the RSPB Reserve

at Bempton Cliffs.

Hire from Stephen. Stephen’s family-friendly motorhome

from Scarborough, is a luxurious six-berth Rimor

Katamarano motorhome with a modern kitchen including

fridge/freeze, a large bathroom, and a drop-down double bed

with ladders. There is a television, mood lighting, and solar

panels, and for keen cyclists, there is a bike rack for two bikes.

It has everything you need for a fun family camper trip.


Yescapa is a community of nearly 500,000 users, with a fleet of around 10,000 vehicles; yescapa.co.uk


an extravagant

REFURBISHMENT

It’s an historic landmark, an art deco hotel right next to the train station

in Yorkshire’s largest city, and it recently had a nine-month, £16-million

refurbishment. Karyn Noble experiences a luxurious weekend in Leeds at

The Queens Hotel and also reviews its new Grand Pacific restaurant

Text by Karyn Noble

Icould almost count the steps from Leeds’ train station

to The Queens Hotel, but even if I had, the minimal

step count would’ve entirely slipped my mind when I

opened the door to my room on the eighth floor. It was

like walking into a turn-of-the-century film location, where I

was looking directly at grand Grade-II-listed buildings from

each window of my room. Before I can hang up my coat,

I’m dazzled by the late afternoon winter sun glinting from

the glorious lime-green patina dome atop the Corinthian

columns of the former Yorkshire Banking Company building

(built in 1899). I cross the glossy parquet floor to bring the

other window’s view closer to me: the vast expanse of Leeds’

City Square and the classical architecture of the former

General Post Office (from 1896) with its intricately designed

clock tower. I wait for the director to call ‘Cut!’ on the cars

spinning about the other-worldly metropolis below, where

six roads meet, but there isn’t one.

This is my reality. I turn from window to window,

transfixed, then spot the complimentary mini-gin bottles

accompanied by Valencian orange tonic water on the table.

I mix my welcome cocktail into a glass adorned with slices

of dehydrated orange and lime, and happily reconcile The

Queen Hotel’s new-found modernity with its unique place in

Leeds’ history.


‘

It's not difficult to imagine Cary Grant once lounging in the opulent lobby,

Laurel and Hardy dancing about the palatial ballroom or Nelson Mandela

emerging from...the red elevators.

’

Glamorous history meets multimillion-pound

refurbishment

First operating in 1863 as a Midland Railway hotel, the art

deco Grade-II-listed, white-Portland-stone-clad building

you see today was constructed in 1937 and opened by the

Princess Royal. Back then, it was not just the first British hotel

to have en-suite bathrooms and air-conditioning from top

to bottom, The Queens Hotel was very much the place to be

seen. Still today, it’s not difficult to imagine Cary Grant once

lounging in the opulent lobby, Laurel and Hardy dancing

about the palatial ballroom or Nelson Mandela emerging

from one of the listed red elevators.

As part of its nine-month, £16-million renovation, an

additional 16 bedrooms were added, bringing the total

to 232 rooms, all of them completely renovated but using

a similar black, white and muted grey colour palette.

Select one with a ‘City Square’ view for the best outlook.

The ground floor has been totally transformed as a social

meeting hub, and the book-shelf-lined lobby with its mix

of plush furniture, sculpture, chandeliers, and pendant

hanging lights offers a striking welcome as you arrive

through the revolving glass doors towards the barrel-vaulted

ceiling of the reception.

Upperworth Studios and Iliard Design are responsible

for the transformation, which sensitively enhances many

of the hotel’s historical art deco features while seamlessly

introducing modernised functionality. So much so that my

initial disbelief that the red passenger elevators may be

ornamental rather than functional proved unfounded.

Grand Pacific Restaurant

With design inspired by Singapore’s opulent Raffles hotel,

the Grand Pacific restaurant in The Queens Hotel has been

kitted out by developer Living Ventures and features nods to

the Golden ‘20s. My first impression at dinner is of relaxed

splendour. It all feels rather exciting to be in a high-ceilinged,


strikingly lit (15ft bespoke chandelier!)

circular space, where palm trees loom

over high-backed chairs with thronelike

drama, and the décor evokes both

light-hearted fun and glamour. This

translates to the drinks menu, where

the cocktails seem incredibly popular,

thanks to the theatrical smoky arrivals

from the raised bar that splits restaurant

diners from drinkers in the lounge area.

I sip my Yuzu Negroni while pillows of

smoke waft out of domes lifted to reveal

Smoked Pineapple Daiquiris or Smokey

Old Fashioneds.

The food choices at dinner err on

the side of comforting crowd-pleasers.

I murmur ‘international cruise ship’ to

myself in an attempt to describe the

gamut of global influences. Indeed,

the main courses are described as

‘a mesmeric voyage of tastes from

distant shores’, spanning everything

from Asian-Spiced Duck Cottage

Pie to Tempura Szechuan Sea Bass.

Yuzu makes another appearance in

my dessert of crème brûlée served

with macadamia shortbread. And

if chocolate fondant with vanilla ice

cream and salted caramel sauce

doesn’t make you happy enough,

they go one step further by adding

honeycomb-roasted peanuts.

Everything is a dollop of ‘extra’ without

being too avant-garde.

Such is the warmth of service at

Grand Pacific, that I’m recognised at

High Tea the next afternoon by one

of the previous night’s waiters, and I

already feel like a regular. I’m thrilled

to sit at yet another dramatic highbacked

chair, where I cocoon inside,

like being in a sun-dappled protective

pram. A choice of loose-leaf tea is

offered with all the accoutrements,

along with not one but two impressive

three-tiered courses, first the savoury

delicacies then the sweet treats.

Let’s start with the savouries. This

is no mere crusts-off cute sandwich

situation (although Coronation

Chicken as well as Egg and Mustard

Cress sandwiches are present).

Instead, think: Smoked Salmon Potato

Cake, Marinated Tuna Tartare,

Arancini with Goat’s Cheese, Eccles

Cake with Creamy Lancashire Cheese,

Crumpet with Lobster Butter). The

next three-tiered course of sweet

treats arrive and I become gratefully

to slide deeper into my comforting

throne in the face of a food coma:

Hibiscus and Strawberry Trifle, S’mores

Chocolate Pot, Chocolate Cupcakes,

Apple and Cinnamon Scones,

Pumpkin Macarons, Coconut and

Lemon Tarts and Treacle Toffees. It’s a

delightful way to spend an afternoon,

and the Grand Pacific High Tea

already appears a popular choice for

celebrations and get-togethers.

Note: the hotel breakfast is not

served in the Grand Pacific’s 100-cover

dining room, but on a basement

level of the building with more of a

conference-room vibe, which feels

like a missed opportunity, given the

dramatics upstairs.

It’s a perfunctory hot-and-cold

buffet affair as well as a choice of

cooked-to-order items from a short

menu. If your room rate doesn’t include

breakfast (you have a choice when

booking), then brunching at one of the

nearby cafes (see opposite page) is an

excellent idea while exploring Leeds.

The Queens Hotel has Classic

Double Rooms from £139 (£163,

including breakfast) in high season;

thequeensleeds.co.uk


WHERE TO EAT AND DRINK NEARBY

—

The sheer diversity of Leeds’ food scene could rival its

abundance of shopping options, which is already off-thescale.

Don’t miss our drink and dining choices, all within an

easy walk of The Queens Hotel:

The Owl

Access at night is via security escort from Kirkgate Market's

entrance, which feels very special, as does The Owl itself.

Chefs prep the likes of sourdough crumpet topped with

smoked cod’s roe puree and bacon jam right in front of you.

theowlleeds.co.uk; leeds.gov.uk/leedsmarkets

HOME

The place for fine dining, on the banks of the River Aire at

Brewery Wharf. Former MasterChef semi-finalist Elizabeth

Cottam produces multicourse tasting menus (your choice of

eight or ten courses), the service is impeccable and while the

menu is adventurous (kudos to the Malham dessert inspired

by Lockdown walks through the limestone landscapes of

Yorkshire’s Malham Cove), it’s never intimidating.

homeleeds.co.uk

The Lost & Found Leeds Club

This magnificent Grade-II listed building dating back

to 1820 was restored in 2018 into a restaurant, cocktail

bar, boardroom, secret den, and what at times feels

like an indoor forest. The cocktails are spectacular and,

depending on what you choose, could arrive topped

with bubbles ready for popping, explosive fireworks, or

in vessels big enough to share between four people. This

is the club that brings the atmosphere if you’re ready to

party. You’ve been warned.

the-lostandfound.co.uk/restaurant/leeds-club

FINT

A wonderful choice for brunch, with a menu that caters

well for vegans, in addition to being on the healthier side of

usual. The setting is minimalistic Scandi. If it’s on the menu,

don’t miss the Duck Hash: a perfectly cooked portion of

duck leg with sweet peppers, Parmentier potatoes, spinach,

poached egg and Béarnaise sauce. fint-leeds.com


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ANSWERS) AND YOUR POSTAL ADDRESS BY POST TO BRITISH

TRAVEL JOURNAL, UNIT 6, BASEPOINT, ANDERSONS ROAD,

SOUTHAMPTON, SO14 5FE, OR EMAIL THE ANSWERS TO

[email protected]

BOOKSHELF

We're reading...

ACROSS

9 Sands where racing driver J G

Parry-Thomas died (7)

10 Lady's maid (7)

11 City on the Aire (5)

12 Discouraged (7,2)

13 Results of poor trading or

tennis, perhaps? (3,6)

15 Land of song (5)

17 It fires a small bomb (7,8)

20 Small lakes in the Lakes (5)

22 Deep thinkers sorted this store

(9)

24 Waters between China and

Korea (6,3)

26 Key of Beethoven's Emperor

Concerto (1,4)

27 We raged about a cause of

hayfever (7)

28 Light-sensitive membranes (7)

DOWN

1 Never went to bed (2,3,5)

2 Creepy-crawly (6)

3 Jews living outside Palestine (8)

4 Like Helen Keller, Beethoven and

Quasimodo (4)

5 Celebrity (6,4)

6 Separate grain and chaff (6)

7 Top flight Oxford hotel (8)

8 Chewton ---, Hampshire hostelry (4)

14 Ignored (5,5)

16 It may leave you out of breath (6,4)

18 Snore excluders (8)

19 Pembrokeshire town on the

Landsker Line (8)

21 --- Island, home to shearwaters and

puffins (6)

23 --- Pool Gin, spirit of Surrey (6)

24 White Rose house (4)

25 One stays a long time in God's

--- (4)

Answers will be printed in the Spring 2023 Issue

AT HOME IN THE COTSWOLDS: an insider’s look at the

Cotswolds' most charming and inspirational private homes, £45,

abrams&chronicle books | ABOUT BRITAIN; A JOURNEY OF

SEVENTY YEARS AND 1,345 MILES: A captivating glimpse of

Britain then and now, seen from behind the steering wheel, £10.99,

bloomsbury.com | THE FLOW; RIVERS, WATER AND WILDNESS:

A visit to the rapid where she lost a cherished friend unexpectedly

reignites Amy-Jane Beer's love of rivers, setting her on a journey of

natural, cultural and emotional discovery, £18.99, bloomsbury.com

ANSWERS TO CROSSWORD 12 | SUMMER 2022

ACROSS: 9 Retreat 10 Athlone 11 Duped 12 In a huddle 13 Cotswolds

15 Swoon 16 Business end 20 Aesop 22 Sommelier 24 Epidermis 26 Hever

27 Whatley 28 El Ninos

DOWN: 1 Brodick 2 Stop it 3 Let-downs 4 Striplings 5 Data 6 Shrugs

7 Goodwood 8 Demeans 14 Sesame seed 16 Bestival 17 Elephant 18 Page

two 19 Ardross 21 Paella 23 Invent 25 Mayo


Cornwall’s our home.

We’d love to share it with you this season.

Book a short stay from just 3 nights this Autumn/Winter. Choose from our beautiful

collection of over 200 private homes, sleeping from 2 to 20 guests.

CELEBRATIONS • ROMANTIC WEEKENDS • CORNISH ADVENTURES • TIME WITH FRIENDS

cornishgems.com | 01872 241 241

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British Travel Journal | Autumn/Winter 2022

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