Adventure Magazine

"Ironically the crisis was

partly caused by the superb

weather that greeted us

when we arrived in late

December."

I was still dubious even as the colour

slowly returned to her face. She

wet a cloth and wiped her arms and

neck. Ten minutes later she was a

different person – a bit unsteady but

determined to continue.

She reluctantly handed me her tent

to carry, and we walked the few

hundred metres to the swing bridge

at 25-mile creek. By the time we had

all taken our turn to cross, Karen

had enjoyed another long drink and

her sense of humour had returned.

Ironically the crisis was partly

caused by the superb weather that

greeted us when we arrived in late

December. We had underestimated

the effect of the long days travel

to reach the start. It was after 3pm

before we had hefted packs onto our

backs, and it was blatantly clear we

had all become dehydrated to some

extent during the long drive.

The sun had begun to slide behind

the jagged peaks of the Forbes

range that loomed above us and a

shadow was creeping across the

valley towards us. Within an hour

we were pitching tents in an almost

perfect spot for a night’s camp on

the edge of the forest, close to fresh

water. The stark-white glacier on Mt

Earnslaw shone brightly overhead,

nearly 2,200 metres above us. It

felt pretty good to be enjoying an

evening meal together, and later

succumbing to sleep while listening

to the gentle sounds of the river

nearby.

Next morning’s dawn chorus was, to

quote another member of the party,

“just glorious”.

Fearing we might underestimate the

effects of the previous day’s dramas,

we set a goal to reach Shelter Rock

hut, yesterday’s official goal, by

midday. If we failed to meet that

deadline the hut would become our

shelter for the night, and we would

cancel the side trip to Cascade

Saddle we had originally planned for

the following day.

We made Shelter Rock hut by

11am! Karen seemed to be back to

her normal self, sharing her wealth

of botanical knowledge as she is

inclined to do, pointing out various

obscure but beautiful flora along the

way. What a team.

Shortly after midday we had made

it past the source of the Rees and

were celebrating on the crest of

the saddle at 1471 metres – a

celebration made that much sweeter

knowing how close we had come to

ditching the venture.

Mt Aspiring is such an apt right

name for a National Park that offers

many great wilderness experiences

for avid and ambitious adventurers.

Tramping to the source of both the

Rees and Te Awa Whakatipu/Dart

rivers left me in awe of these huge

glacial valleys towered over by

rugged snow-topped peaks.

At times we wandered over wide

open grassy flats, creased by the

many tributaries that guide melting

snow and ice from the peaks up to

two thousand metres above us. In

other places the trail winds through

fern and moss layered beech forest,

and thanks to some great pest

control, we got to enjoy the calls of

many native birds. Close encounters

(yes, plural) with curious robin are a

certainty, and we were lucky enough

to pique the interest of a young kea

who danced to within a few feet in a

vain attempt to garner some morsel.

Each of the three main huts are

unique. Shelter Rock hut sited in

a grassy flat surrounded by subalpine

plants and steep valley walls.

Daleys Flat hut sits above the lower

reaches of the Dart River. Dart Hut

must however, rate as one the best

in New Zealand. Built alongside an

energetic Snowy Creek and filled

with the sound of water crashing

its way over some huge boulders

nearby. It also offers superb tent

sites.

Tanya and Kate above an ice strewn valley floor and imposing cliff faces of te Awa Whakatipu valley.

Emerging onto Slip Flats on the way to Rees Saddle.

28//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#237 ADVENTUREMAGAZINE.CO.NZ//29